A few comments. First off, the " Upgrade" you show, still uses that same C clip to hold your wheel on and the Roller Bearing or a Bushing won't make a difference at keeping the wheel on the Tractor. Cub Cadet, MTD, Yard Machine and many Craftsman use a Hair Pin or a Carter Key to hold that assembly together and having the wheel fall off wouldn't of happened. The C clip will wear thin and it starts to Flex and it will pop off.Cub cadet and the others I mentioned Do have Roller bearings on their Higher End Models.They aren't "High End" tractors. Most Wheel/Rim won't accepet the Roller Bearing that you are using because the center Hub isn't large enough Diameter to accept it.The Plastic Bushing wheels when greased once a year will last around 400 to 500 hours of use
I just completed the change to bearings on my JD E120 yesterday. 2 tips for those planning to do it. First, I used a 3/8" extension to tap out the old bushings easily and second, I used a 1 1/16 socket to tap in the new bearings. (with a rubber mallet). Very well done video, showing the process and result.
I was using a screwdriver to tap the bushing out. But remembered. Don’t know which RUclips video I saw. But grabbed my 3/8 extension. Tap tap and it was out.
Just finished a cub cadet upgrade. The bushings had not been maintained and the axles suffered. The worn axles had severe wear on the bottom side. My quick fix was to weld the worn sections then ground and filed back to a diameter that allowed the new bearings to slide on with enough tension that the inner race won’t spin. The fix wasn’t really quick but faster than waiting for two new axles. The factory axles on riders have a dimension slightly under 3/4 inch and can possibly allow the bearing inner race to spin causing wear on the axle worse than the bushing. Bushing is a softer material than the axle but with the new bearing the bearing is way harder than the axle. So if for any reason the new bearing seizes it will eat that axle for lunch. Something should be done to stop the possible rotation of the bearing upon a seize up. There are plenty of ways from applying silicone on a clean axle to staking/peening the bearing set area to create enough tension to keep the bearing tight but not so tight to restrict installation and removal. If you intend to grease these sealed bearings you will need to remove the inner seal and puncture the outer seal with a sewing needle. This puncture will allow the grease applied to have an escapement without blowing the seal out of its fit and still stay closed under static pressure so it won’t allow anything go back in.
I assumed my 2014 Cub Cadets model LTX1046KW would have ball bearings. But no, The first thing to do even it is brand new is to get those bushings off the tractor. Replacing cheap bushings and think everything is fine until you inspect your spindle axles. Then you notice the lower half of the axle is gone and even with new ball bearings your wheels will flop around. What then , you have to buy new spindles $300.00 from MTD or wherever you like. Also added thrust bearings on the spindles.
Pull the inside seal off the bearings, and continue using the grease, and it'll last 100% longer than it will as a sealed bearing. Also pull the plastic bushing off your steering shaft, and go get a block bearing that will bolt down to the support brace the shaft goes through. That will improve the sloppy rattling steering shaft that is inherent to the cheap design they use. Cost maybe $10.00, but granted that was several years ago, and we all know how that's changed dramatically. Regardless it will save you money in the cost of replacing the gear at the bottom of the shaft, and the cheap metal gear that your tie rods are connected to. By adding the block bearing, it allows you to actually put positive pressure on the gear, and the stamped quadrant they have in place. By pulling back towards the driver's seat when you are marking the position of the holes required to mount the bearing your applying positive pressure on the two gears that are your steering gear box, and this in turn does away with the piss poor design of using a plastic bushing as a support bearing to align the shaft to to the sector gear under the mower frame.. There's even a way to make actual articulating tie rods to eliminate even more of the sloppy steering this design has built into it, and basically its designed to fail after the year warranty has expired. Same thing with the spindle on the mower deck .while there is a grease fitting there. The same condition that you have with the replacement bearings you used on the wheels exist. Take the blades off, pop the shaft out, and then use a brass rod, or a socket extension to knock these bearings out. You see that you have grease inside the spindle housing, but the bearings are sealed on both sides . Explain to me how this is getting all the grease that you have made the effort to put into the dam fittings that are a PIA to actually put grease into in the first place, but then to actually design failure into something that can cost up to over $100.00 dollars each if you replace the whole spindle housing and everything that goes inside it. Here's the deal, you do not have to replace the whole thing. You can buy the shaft, the bearings, the nut, are the spindle housing itself separately. Personally I get my bearings from a bearing supply house, and any size town has at least one of these, if not in your town, the next one down the road, because farmers ranchers need bearings, as do a lotta places .simply pull the worn bearings out, take a trip to the supplier, and he can match you up with a better quality bearing by Timkin is one, and there's other ones out there better than the cheap Chinese bearings or wherever they got them Simply pop the seal off the inside of the bearings that faces inside the spindle and grease them up properly, and they'll last long time. Hopefully this helps anyone who wants to read this short novel, but I consider it as a look into the crooked way that we're cheated out of more money than they deserve from anyone period. Some people can't be happy with a fair profit margin, because they're ruled by Greed. Greed is what's destroyed man since the beginning of time, and eventually it will be what finishes mankind off completely.
Just worked on a craftsman that used different hub design, the axle was still 3/4” inch but the wheel bore was 1 inch”. This may well have been an engineering design to stop the upgrade of using sealed ball bearing and dumping the bushings!
I tried taking the old bearings out with conventional tools and weaponry, including heating the hub with an oxy/acetylene torch while using a 1/2 ton arbor press!! What NOW???
Thanks for the video. Should add a link to the kit. Also, bearings still need grease but those have seal. Take the inner seal on each bearing off and then grease will get to the bearing using the zerk on the rim.
I can see you guys NEVER took some of those "seals" off. OMG, if you did, you would know HOW HARD it is to put it back and also how hard it is to take it out. The ones that you can, it's usually Chinese Rip-Off parts. Try OEM or good ones and you will see what I am talking about. *NOTE:* You have better luck drilling a tiny hole and then using a needle to put grease in. YES, I have done it.
Common mistake made when doing this... many people don't realize. "REMOVE THE PLASTIC SEAL ON THE INSIDE OF THE NEW BEARINGS" otherwise, there is no way the grease will get into the bearing. The only grease in the new bearing is what they use when assembling them at the factory "and is not much". Use a small screwdriver, pick tool, or the point of a knife to pop the seal out. Also, drill a tiny weephole somewhere towards the center of the wheel hub. This will allow you to see when it is full, so there's no way of blowing the outside bearing seals out.
Measure the spindle outer diameter and the inner diameter of the wheel. Just to be sure. But order the wheel kit with your model number in the search will give good results too.
I have had bearing problems with my cub cadet spindles and found out that most bearings are made in China and are sealed . That does not work I guess because this is 3rd set on a 2016 cub cadet 1042 kw v twin hydrostatic mower with 182 hours on it and that is because I have always used 2 mowers for my over 3 acres . Ifixit4u on youtube had a great video . The last set of spindles I just took off because the pully kept throwing off the belt and finally ripped it . Well took spindle apart looked inside bearings no grease and then noticed no spacer between bearings . Shame on cub cadet This time I am taking inside covers off bearings . The spindles have always had zerk fittings . But figure clean deck while at it and put on second coating of graphite slip plate to keep grass from sticking to the underside of the mower since I use gator blades . Why i did not do that i don't know , says 2 coats . new cub cadet gow 2 coats also and gator blades
Just had to LAUGH at this guy, he tapped in the NEW bearing WITHOUT REMOVING THE INSIDE GREASE SEAL , so as soon as the new bearing grease is used up , he's going to have to REMOVE THE BEARINGS AGAIN, REMOVE THE SEAL, RE-PACK THE BEARINGS WHILE HE HAS THEM OUT, THEN RE-INSTALL THEM, THEN PUT THE WHEELS BACK ON THE AXLE STUB, PUT THE WASHERS AND CLIPS BACK ON, THEN PUMP ADDITIONAL GREASE BACK INTO THE AXEL THRU THE GREASE NIPPLE TO FILL UP THE REMAINING SPACE. This guy is a real fart smeller, oops sorry, I meant to say SMART FELLER.🤣😂😅
www.amazon.com/s?k=HD+Switch+bearing&i=lawngarden&crid=2GJQFEE9B1820&sprefix=hd+switch+bearing%2Clawngarden%2C93&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 Check which kit for your particular tractor.
While you're at it, might as well do the "poor man's power steering" upgrade. Needle bearings between the spindles and the axle
A few comments. First off, the " Upgrade" you show, still uses that same C clip to hold your wheel on and the Roller Bearing or a Bushing won't make a difference at keeping the wheel on the Tractor. Cub Cadet, MTD, Yard Machine and many Craftsman use a Hair Pin or a Carter Key to hold that assembly together and having the wheel fall off wouldn't of happened. The C clip will wear thin and it starts to Flex and it will pop off.Cub cadet and the others I mentioned Do have Roller bearings on their Higher End Models.They aren't "High End" tractors. Most Wheel/Rim won't accepet the Roller Bearing that you are using because the center Hub isn't large enough Diameter to accept it.The Plastic Bushing wheels when greased once a year will last around 400 to 500 hours of use
I just completed the change to bearings on my JD E120 yesterday. 2 tips for those planning to do it. First, I used a 3/8" extension to tap out the old bushings easily and second, I used a 1 1/16 socket to tap in the new bearings. (with a rubber mallet). Very well done video, showing the process and result.
I was using a screwdriver to tap the bushing out. But remembered. Don’t know which RUclips video I saw. But grabbed my 3/8 extension. Tap tap and it was out.
Just finished a cub cadet upgrade. The bushings had not been maintained and the axles suffered. The worn axles had severe wear on the bottom side. My quick fix was to weld the worn sections then ground and filed back to a diameter that allowed the new bearings to slide on with enough tension that the inner race won’t spin. The fix wasn’t really quick but faster than waiting for two new axles. The factory axles on riders have a dimension slightly under 3/4 inch and can possibly allow the bearing inner race to spin causing wear on the axle worse than the bushing. Bushing is a softer material than the axle but with the new bearing the bearing is way harder than the axle. So if for any reason the new bearing seizes it will eat that axle for lunch. Something should be done to stop the possible rotation of the bearing upon a seize up. There are plenty of ways from applying silicone on a clean axle to staking/peening the bearing set area to create enough tension to keep the bearing tight but not so tight to restrict installation and removal. If you intend to grease these sealed bearings you will need to remove the inner seal and puncture the outer seal with a sewing needle. This puncture will allow the grease applied to have an escapement without blowing the seal out of its fit and still stay closed under static pressure so it won’t allow anything go back in.
I assumed my 2014 Cub Cadets model LTX1046KW would have ball bearings. But no, The first thing to do even it is brand new is to get those bushings off the tractor. Replacing cheap bushings and think everything is fine until you inspect your spindle axles. Then you notice the lower half of the axle is gone and even with new ball bearings your wheels will flop around. What then , you have to buy new spindles $300.00 from MTD or wherever you like. Also added thrust bearings on the spindles.
If you pry the inner seals out of those new bearings you can still grease those zirc fittings & they will last forever!
Pull the inside seal off the bearings, and continue using the grease, and it'll last 100% longer than it will as a sealed bearing.
Also pull the plastic bushing off your steering shaft, and go get a block bearing that will bolt down to the support brace the shaft goes through.
That will improve the sloppy rattling steering shaft that is inherent to the cheap design they use.
Cost maybe $10.00, but granted that was several years ago, and we all know how that's changed dramatically.
Regardless it will save you money in the cost of replacing the gear at the bottom of the shaft, and the cheap metal gear that your tie rods are connected to.
By adding the block bearing, it allows you to actually put positive pressure on the gear, and the stamped quadrant they have in place.
By pulling back towards the driver's seat when you are marking the position of the holes required to mount the bearing your applying positive pressure on the two gears that are your steering gear box, and this in turn does away with the piss poor design of using a plastic bushing as a support bearing to align the shaft to to the sector gear under the mower frame..
There's even a way to make actual articulating tie rods to eliminate even more of the sloppy steering this design has built into it, and basically its designed to fail after the year warranty has expired.
Same thing with the spindle on the mower deck .while there is a grease fitting there.
The same condition that you have with the replacement bearings you used on the wheels exist.
Take the blades off, pop the shaft out, and then use a brass rod, or a socket extension to knock these bearings out.
You see that you have grease inside the spindle housing, but the bearings are sealed on both sides .
Explain to me how this is getting all the grease that you have made the effort to put into the dam fittings that are a PIA to actually put grease into in the first place, but then to actually design failure into something that can cost up to over $100.00 dollars each if you replace the whole spindle housing and everything that goes inside it.
Here's the deal, you do not have to replace the whole thing.
You can buy the shaft, the bearings, the nut, are the spindle housing itself separately.
Personally I get my bearings from a bearing supply house, and any size town has at least one of these, if not in your town, the next one down the road, because farmers ranchers need bearings, as do a lotta places .simply pull the worn bearings out, take a trip to the supplier, and he can match you up with a better quality bearing by Timkin is one, and there's other ones out there better than the cheap Chinese bearings or wherever they got them
Simply pop the seal off the inside of the bearings that faces inside the spindle and grease them up properly, and they'll last long time.
Hopefully this helps anyone who wants to read this short novel, but I consider it as a look into the crooked way that we're cheated out of more money than they deserve from anyone period.
Some people can't be happy with a fair profit margin, because they're ruled by Greed.
Greed is what's destroyed man since the beginning of time, and eventually it will be what finishes mankind off completely.
Just did the change last week to bearings and changed the spindles. Big difference.
Just worked on a craftsman that used different hub design, the axle was still 3/4” inch but the wheel bore was 1 inch”. This may well have been an engineering design to stop the upgrade of using sealed ball bearing and dumping the bushings!
thanks !!that's the way to go!!
Thanks, great tip.
great video
I am disappointed they use plastic bushings on the control arm: been trying to find metal replacements but no luck so far.
I tried taking the old bearings out with conventional tools and weaponry, including heating the hub with an oxy/acetylene torch while using a 1/2 ton arbor press!! What NOW???
Nice
Thanks for the video. Should add a link to the kit. Also, bearings still need grease but those have seal. Take the inner seal on each bearing off and then grease will get to the bearing using the zerk on the rim.
Agreed 100%
I can see you guys NEVER took some of those "seals" off. OMG, if you did, you would know HOW HARD it is to put it back and also how hard it is to take it out. The ones that you can, it's usually Chinese Rip-Off parts. Try OEM or good ones and you will see what I am talking about.
*NOTE:* You have better luck drilling a tiny hole and then using a needle to put grease in. YES, I have done it.
Common mistake made when doing this... many people don't realize. "REMOVE THE PLASTIC SEAL ON THE INSIDE OF THE NEW BEARINGS" otherwise, there is no way the grease will get into the bearing. The only grease in the new bearing is what they use when assembling them at the factory "and is not much". Use a small screwdriver, pick tool, or the point of a knife to pop the seal out. Also, drill a tiny weephole somewhere towards the center of the wheel hub. This will allow you to see when it is full, so there's no way of blowing the outside bearing seals out.
Great video. I bought a used Husqvarna YTH-20K46. How do I determine which bearing kit I need to order for my tractor.
Measure the spindle outer diameter and the inner diameter of the wheel. Just to be sure. But order the wheel kit with your model number in the search will give good results too.
Does not work on troybilt Bronco. OD is not the same. I am still looking for the correct bearing which I think is .75ID by 1.0 OD.
I have had bearing problems with my cub cadet spindles and found out that most bearings are made in China and are sealed . That does not work I guess because this is 3rd set on a 2016 cub cadet 1042 kw v twin hydrostatic mower with 182 hours on it and that is because I have always used 2 mowers for my over 3 acres . Ifixit4u on youtube had a great video . The last set of spindles I just took off because the pully kept throwing off the belt and finally ripped it . Well took spindle apart looked inside bearings no grease and then noticed no spacer between bearings . Shame on cub cadet This time I am taking inside covers off bearings . The spindles have always had zerk fittings . But figure clean deck while at it and put on second coating of graphite slip plate to keep grass from sticking to the underside of the mower since I use gator blades . Why i did not do that i don't know , says 2 coats . new cub cadet gow 2 coats also and gator blades
Whooooo
Sorry for your disappointment.
Bushings work well for 40 years when maintained.
They will last. Longer than your engine.
How about rear ones?
Nothing needs done to rear except antizee on axle shaft to prevent rusting
Nice job on your vid right to the point,
Just had to LAUGH at this guy, he tapped in the NEW bearing WITHOUT REMOVING THE INSIDE GREASE SEAL , so as soon as the new bearing grease is used up , he's going to have to REMOVE THE BEARINGS AGAIN, REMOVE THE SEAL, RE-PACK THE BEARINGS WHILE HE HAS THEM OUT, THEN RE-INSTALL THEM, THEN PUT THE WHEELS BACK ON THE AXLE STUB, PUT THE WASHERS AND CLIPS BACK ON, THEN PUMP ADDITIONAL GREASE BACK INTO THE AXEL THRU THE GREASE NIPPLE TO FILL UP THE REMAINING SPACE. This guy is a real fart smeller, oops sorry, I meant to say SMART FELLER.🤣😂😅
Please make a video show us your methodology!
Hi, we are selling this bearing kit, can you put the link under your video please?
im about to do this mod this month... i will make a video for you guys !i think its a mod ALL mowers should do..
www.amazon.com/s?k=HD+Switch+bearing&i=lawngarden&crid=2GJQFEE9B1820&sprefix=hd+switch+bearing%2Clawngarden%2C93&ref=nb_sb_noss_2
Check which kit for your particular tractor.
Craftsman''s came with 26hp. Just an FYI
what motor is that?
@@Novagunner My 26hp is a Kohler
I'm sorry but for that kind of money why would you buy that of all things
The bearings? It was only $20 or so and easy to do and a lot more durable.
For $20? Mitch Salisbury are are u homeless?
Because the plastic bushings last one summer, IF THAT!!! If I could get these wheel bearings in, they should last YEARS!!!
"Higher end", "higher end"... narcissist much.
John deere lawn/garden tractors are garbage
I am disappointed they use plastic bushings on the control arm: been trying to find metal replacements but no luck so far.