Finally!! A straight to the point video tutorial that shows everything needed to run a simple home network. I think i'm gonna follow your model and build my home network. Thanks for the video!!
I liked your setup so much that I mimicked it almost entirely. I have a few more devices that I put on some shelves in the rack as well. Thanks for the video.
Just finished a new build house. This and your patch panel video really helpful. I now have very similar set up plus all TV/Sat connections. Looks so neat and professional and works reliably.
Tip: Do not use zip ties. The sheathing on the network cable can swell and shrink based on temperature shifts which will cause the zip ties to cut into the cable. Instead spend a couple of bucks on a roll of velcro and cut strips of that to manage your cables.
It's not even that, if you ever need to redo your cable management for whatever reason, you have to cut the zip ties and risk damaging the cables then too.
@@user-ew8ct6fm2o I don't have time for that. Velcro is reusable and just pops right off and goes right back on. Velcro was also flexible and won't cut into the cabling through thermal expansion and contraction. If you are a contractor that I hired to run cabling and you use zip ties you are redoing the job or you are not getting paid because you did not complete the job through the scope of work.
@@Squirleypoo you wouldn't be hiring me cause I would overprice it for being picky. Zip ties would not damage the cabling if you use them properly. You're not suppose to tighten them enough that they can cut into the cabling. Oh and you could try to refuse payment, I would just put a lien on your property as it wouldn't be specified how cables are secured in the scope of work and there is no code against zip ties.
Just a suggestion for others I recently found out about. They offer keystone compatible patch panels that make working on the patch panel more convenient. It also helps if a port dies because you can replace instead of just having to mark it as dead.
Love the neatness. I've done a bunch of office network cable installs and here are a couple of quick notes: 1. Run the cables from the hinged side instead (to the right in the video). This allow you to punch them down, tie them up, and then rotate it back into place with the cables fully mounted. 2. That seems like a lot of metal to mess with your wifi hotspot/router's antennas. Might be better to mount it somewhere away from the rack. The other walls inside the closet, for example. 3. Cable labels are your friend. :) Maybe they're done and I'm not seeing them in the vid? I won't do any kind of install without them anymore (not even car stereo). In very big setups we will write on the cable itself before heat shrinking on something more permanent once the final length is determined.
Good points. Starting at the hinge side is a good idea, my ports would start at 24 and go down instead of 1, but could be worse. Yeah, the WiFi hotspot seems perfectly fine. Get great reception and speed on wireless, so can't be doing much really. Thanks for the comment.
@@BudgetNerd Meaningful names help a lot, even in smaller setups like this, so like "Living room 1 .. 4", "Master Bed", etc. Just a bit of time up front saves a bunch down the road. Much easier than having to uncover the port at the other end or having to tone out which one is which.
I did this after watching this video in 2020.. Cant be happier! nice to have the whole house on wired and take the massive strain off the wifi with so many devices.
One element I picked up from watching pro vids on networks is the "service loop", a loop of cable that gives you the spare length if you need to fix something. There are other choices that can be used, though they cost more money, such as Keystone connectors which need very little untwisting of the twisted pairs. General electrical safety: keep your network cabling clear of mains power cabling. I'm in the UK, where we run at 240v, and maybe the electricians in my family made me a little over-cautious. Some things you show would be difficult here in the UK, because of different house-construction methods. The Keystone system is available here, with connector modules for aerial and audio connections, but there is a different size standard, working in a similar way, that also gets called Keystone by some. Again, different UK standards, but I would use a PDU that had standard UK power sockets, rather than the IEC types (which you can see on a desktop PCs PSU). It makes it easy to add a wall-wart to power something such as that wi-fi, or a PoE box, or just to provide a USB charging point for a phone.
1 tip on the punchdown panel. You need to maintain the pair twist tolerance all the way from the jacket butt to the panel itself. Very important on Cat6 and up spec cables. Each pair is twisted differently to prevent cross talk. That few inches of untwisting the pairs can drop your network speed a lot. Same goes if installing a RJ45 connector.
You should be fine. It will work. But if you are a lot slower than 1G. Like 600M or 700M. Just pull the wire out of the blocks. Cut off the wires and rebutt the cable jacket. You should have a max of 1/2" of wire exposed from the jacket butt after you punch down. Do not untwist the pairs. Just spread them enough to slide them in the block teeth and punch. Just a FYI colors and pairs do matter. Follow the standards. On cat 5 you could get away with "It does not matter so long they are the same on both ends of the cable". On cat 6 and up in does matter. On 10G it matters a whole bunch.
True enough - it has been my experience that you don't run into issues until your cable length goes past 80% of the maximum standard length. Also important is keeping the wire lengths of each pair close to the same. Having said that, I can't count how many times I have seen improper cat 5 and 6 terminations that still pass 1GB - probably because most cable runs don't get close to the maximum length. The majority of actual problems I have encountered were due to people swapping A&B standards, mislabeling cables, or badly nicking the insulation when they strip off the sheath. All of those problems should have been caught by tests which were supposed to be mandatory; instead I caught them while installing equipment and I ended up taking off the jacks and fixing them.
Matthew Barras Exactly this, you also aren't supposed to strip the wire pairs the punch down does this automatically. Yeah you can still get full speed, but you will create a ton of collisions where packets need to be resent. Also for the in wall work you don't want any wires going near power lines as they too will create a lot of EMI and interference.
Nice walkthrough of the install. I went through this in my house with a budget of around 500. I had a few more criteria to hit, mainly i wanted a lockable cabinet because I plan to keep a surveillance nvr in there. I did use the same switch and patch panel.
Very neatly done. Would have gone with a managed 16 port layer 2 switch with PoE+ capability on some of the ports though. Gotta be able to run a more central ceiling mounted AP and VLAN support is a must. Can always buy another unmanaged 16 port switch later on the cheap for expansion. I like to create separate VLANs for my main, guest, kids networks, and a fourth VLAN for IoT devices and anything else that needs internet connectivity but has questionable security features. Thanks for sharing.
Very good looking setup. I need to do something like this, but I have just thrown mine together. And, I'm still working out the bugs. But, glad you walked-through it and had the time to do it right !!! Good job ...
Good video, but I will give you one tip that you may or may not know about... and that is to use smurf tube and ENT boxes for your network wiring. They even make it just for low voltage/AV/network in orange color. I use it for all my network runs - just mount the box and run the tubing. For simple wall drops I only run the tubing so it's just a few inches above the top plate of the wall. It makes running additional cable & changing cabling so easy. You can also run it between boxes - I use it this way to run wires between DVRs and wall mounted TVs as you can get it in large enough diameter to run an HDMI cable. It also comes in handy when going from the audio/video distribution panel to the various speaker locations. Yeah, there's some additional cost but it's worth it down the road if you ever need to add wires.
No, it would fail the inspection because it might come into contact with the LV cable and cause high voltage to be introduced into that system. The code doesn't care about data interference. It only cares about safety.
id like to do something like this myself. Very clean work, looks well organized and professional... i feel that will be my downfall (usually is, especially in PC building) where i start off strong with cable management but after several "undo's" and another hours worth of routing i get in such a rush near the finish line i just start stuffing in cables and cramming cover plates over stuff and turn the window towards the wall so nobody can see my shame. again, great looking build!
Far as that full length piano hinge goes- you can use a Dremel cutting wheel to cut down that strip into sections so whenever you need to just open one section, it's all separated for great ease of use! That's what I do with mine and my friends setups whenever helping them along, and it always works very well and goes off without a hitch
Really like the video, i always seek tech tips that are affordable and doable, kindly continue on producing such content also let us in about the research you did. also keep on making budget tech videos, do a budget solar panel or budget home plumbing or water system
I just finished my similar set up un my new house. Well the data part anyways. I have some coaxial cable I would like to find some rack equipment for and make just as nice. But this is a great start. Thank you foe showing me how to get this done.
+Robert Hicks it has passed the wife test, from what I can tell. She has only said two things about it, "I have no idea what that is," and "it looks like mission control." I will consider that a pass.
Really useful for learning how to set up a wired home network, my fam have always managed on WiFi but with the new setup we're installing we can use ethernet and we will have a better WiFi connection. It won't be quite as good as yours but it will definitely be a massive improvement, thanks for sharing your knowledge
If you wanted to save a little money you could've just run 1 or 2 ethernet cables to your entertainment center and then added a switch. Also, I've repurposed old routers into switches by disabling DHCP and wireless capabilities if anyone wanted to save even a little more money.
Bman8862 I'd agree, Linksys or Netgear or others offer inexpensive switches ($25-$40 Gigabit). In my office sure for troubleshooting make them all home runs, but a home it's not necessary.
Ask anyone who works in enterprise networking, cascading switches.. especially in a managed environment is a fucking nightmare. I mean, I would spend the extra money just to run everything back to a central switch. But yes, you are right, good ideas to save money!
Can I ask, why did you go with a frame rack instead of a cabinet style self contained rack? I think it would have maybe worked better in your situation?
I’m in Canada 🇨🇦 so of course our prices differ but I am planning on a similar build. Everything’s sitting in my cart 🛒 on Amazon. I went with a “smart” switch, same rack, power strip, patch panel, 🤜 punch kit..... all to network my 🏡 house.... I’ll also being doing a video presentation like yourself. Thank you for the run through.
"Wife test" LOL, obviously you never met me ;) I'm a woman who handles all of our networking in the house and buys the rackmount equipment. My husband would never meet my very fussy hardware demands when it comes to high-end networking equipment ;)
Nice work. I did the same thing except I mounted my patch panel in the wall. My interior studs happen to be farther than 16" apart. I put a block of wood in the wall to mount the patch panel to. The panel is flushed mounted to the drywall. I then bought a rack mount shelf for my Cisco switch and also put my setup above the top closet shelf so my coat rack would still be free. The one thing I didn't think about was doing a coax patch panel for distribution in the house. All my coax runs to one location outside currently. Someday I'll reroute it to the closet and add a patch panel.
ben johnson Mounting the panel in the wall was to help conceal the wires from the back of the panel going into the wall. Although you did a nice job of running them cleanly into the wall.
Good video. People think they can't benefit from a wired house because their internet isn't fast enough, but I think they can. The more devices you can offload from 2.4gHz to 5gHz and wired, the faster the speed on your phones, tablets, and other roaming devices. This also frees up RAM and processing power of the router, making web pages respond a little faster.
@@BudgetNerd thanks! My setup is jank compared to yours. 2 5-port switches because I didn't get an 8-port, going to 3 access points. The APs are older dual band routers, so whatever is nearby and stationary like printers or Chromecasts get put on the 5gHz, everything capable gets plugged in, and the 2.4gHz is pretty reliable and quick. The main router has always been the newest piece of equipment. With the wireless turned off, it always runs very cool and reliable. Every couple years it gets rotated out and replaces the oldest access point. I'm overdue for a new main router, and I'm leaning towards an edgerouter from ubiquity.
+Jesper Vikström I label the ports on the wall plates, which corresponds to the numbers on the patch panel. Then I just "patch" a little cable from the patch panel to any port on the switch.
+Jesper Vikström each cable that runs through the house goes from a wall plate somewhere in the house to a position on the patch panel. Each spot on the patch panel has a number. So if the cable terminates on the patch panel position 5, I write or label the wall jack on the other end with 5. Then I run a "Ethernet patch cable" from spot 5 on the patch panel to the switch.
Just wondering did you label first or did you go back and check later? (I always label all cables even if just with a sharpie, when pulling. Maybe just used to it from my commercial experience.) Also, just a tip, it's easier to punch down your cables the other way. I know you said you wouldn't use the hinge, but if you run them down the side with the hinge you can have a cleaner path back to the wall, also if you ever do decide to use the hinge it'll work fine. Lastly maybe use an angle grinder/dremel/hacksaw to cut the hinge to fit just the panel so you can swing it open whenever and not have to remove the rest of the devices.
Ah! you might be right, im just basing it on 4:03 in the video but we dont get to see the bottom holes, they could be upright. don't mind me, just giving my unsolicited two cents
If you watch around 01:53 the holes appear to have the cut outs top and bottom. I see why you have thought that from 04:00 though as it does look like the slot has been put the wrong way up. My guess would be they're made to work either way and a logo is put on after.
2:01 "Does have a 12 inch depth, which should allow enough space for most any typical rackmounted equipment". (Looks to left to see my Dell PowerEdge 2950 server yet to be installed, which looks *at least 3 feet long*...)
Even if that rack could accommodate that depth, it would never hold that much weight. I think my DL380 G7 would probably make a pancake out of it. But you wouldn't want to put a 2950 anywhere near a living space because they're so incredibly loud.
Funny you should mention that... as mine is only 15ft away from my bedroom with only two un-insulated walls between me and the jet engine Dell rebranded as a server. Which is 90% of the reason I just use it as a multi-core workhorse when I need it, and a learning playground. Still wish I could actually use the rails I have for it though =(
Just a couple of thoughts and ideas: I'd invest in an UPS and instead of that punch out I'd simply use a Rj45 crimping tool and install connector plugs. The next thing if your house is sprawled out, a Mesh system like Google WiFi or Plume. Both are affordable and work well enough for a home. Good luck!
ben johnson I didn't count them, it just looked more. The crimping tool is great for custom length patch cables and it's cheaper to buy a roll of cable and make cables. It's easy. I'm not trying to make a big deal about it. Do it however you see fit.
yopparaiiii I just asked the guy that was installing the new network at work if I could work with his.l company and ironically enough he gave me his contact info and I hope and pray I could get this job. It's something I would love to do not to mention the money is good too
This job is not for everyone, but if you know what you are getting into, it can be a lot of fun. Wish you the best. When you do get in, practice 'Safety First'.
One of the better network/cabinet tours on youtube. Great video and nice setup. (our setup is like your before setup!) Where you say you cant swing out your patch panel, you could take a hacksaw and cut the hinge top and bottom of the patch panel so you could swing out just that section?
+Accessfm thank you. That is very kind. Yes you could in theory cut the hinge part like that around the patch panel, then yes it would swing on its own without needing to remove anything else.
For future reference it’s easier to punch down on a flat surface if you take the patch panel off the rack and lay it down. Also wouldn’t recommend zip ties for two reasons. If you over tighten them you run the risk of messing with the UTP inside the jacket, and when it’s time to upgrade or add to your panel you’ll want to cut those zip ties and run the risk of nipping a cable. Velcro straps are relatively cheap. In your case it’s also not a bad idea to wire map, and verify your cables to make sure you’re getting good cross talk and that your pairs all match up correctly.
From a physical point of view i like, two thumps up. From a software side of view its either not shown or lacking heavily, neutral. For example: I hope you have installed a good FW for getting the most out of your network, from your own ISP, security and throughput. Also its 100% viable if you want to purchase refurbished Cisco equipment or equipment thats no longer supported for your layer two and layer three, getting industry capabilities behind a strong FW for very very little.
Nice! Just trolling looking for diy videos to link to my customers. Networking is the biggest concern for home computer enthusiasts. Cabling and associated hardware is 95% of networking which scares most folks off, not to mention the cost of a professional doing the wiring. I run a one-man computer repair/cleanup/upgrade/network business from home. I school all my customers on the benefits of a wired verses wifi network and give them a hand doing it. Most times its as simple as running a single ethernet cable from their cable/phone modem or gateway to their computer with instant improvement in service and connection latency issues. I can give lots of help for a mere 12 pack of Coronas! 😁 🍺
@@cjkline83 I did this because my security cameras require wifi and its great, I have a pretty small UPS as well and it ran for 8 hours the only time my power went out
+Sam Schultz good idea, I could but I was trying to keep costs down. Perhaps down the road. Power doesn't go out here in Idaho often, and when it is down, it's nice to do something else for a change.
ah fair enough I experience a lot of brown outs where I am so having clean and stable power helps keep internet smooth. it's nice to have a big ups too for emergency situations you can charge a cell phone many many times off one.
+Sam Schultz I do have separate things like that, to charge phones etc during brown/blackout, but nothing for my network setup. Never thought it was necessary for me, but you know down the road. Thanks for the comments!
Crank out some more videos, man. Your videos for your network and hardware are great quality and very informative. I'd love to see some more that fall under the "Home networking" umbrella. Talk your wife into letting you build a cheap-o server and tie it into what you already have in place and do a plex setup or something.
+J Smith thanks for the kind words. I do have some more in the works. Your Plex idea is a good one. I am currently using Windows Media center for that sort of thing now.
This project was done on a low budget, so a UPS would make it more expensive. Also, it would be overkill for this setup, unless there's something more important like a NAS, NVR, or some other server
TechnoBike HD basically kid, wifi doesn't mean Internet. Wifi is a wireless way of delivering Internet. You can deliver internet through wires as well. So imagine one of the blue wires being connected to your phone all the time. You'll never have internet issues unless they come from your Internet service provider or the modem that's accepting the connection from your ISP.
Simple Man yes - correct, was trying to simplify it as much as possible, my younger cousin thinks "wifi" is simply Internet, always refers to his wifi being faster than mine but his intention is to say his isp is quicker
that electrical wiring at 4:24 isn't up to code. the romex connector is stripped out of the compression slot which looks like you completely pushed out like a novice, and there are no staples securing the romex to the wall. i mean make a little effort.
CxnTrxL people watch things like this and think: "well that's good enough I'll do mine like that". Then they get a fire and endanger the lives of others. So yea pointing out the flaws in something potentially life threatening so nobody else does it makes me feel good. And it should make the person doing it realize what they have done is wrong and correct it. I should note that, everything else is done well. Although I recently learned that cat cables should be minimally untwisted (like 1/2 in) for optimal performance.
I have to say my network is better than this now. BUT this is the video that pushed me over the top to actually run cat6a and set it up like this properly. Thank you.
If you setup CAT6a like this you're not following the standard and it won't perform as good... You need to retain the twist of each pair up to the very last moment to the LSA strips, not like this where there's quite a length of unwound pairs... Also, cables folding like that like the most right one especially is far out of the spec and just won't do 10GbE. This is fine for hobby, but in therms of quality it's rather horrible.
I just purchased NETGEAR 12-Port Gigabit Layer 2 Managed Switch GSM7212 ,I researched and every Techie say you have more control over your settings. it is a 2006 hope it works for my needs. should have it today! setting and waiting.
If the patch panel was on the bottom, you could cut the bottom portion of the hinge so it swings independently for when you want to make changes or troubleshoot.
I have an issue with your patch panel. I would suggest that you have more patches, and have spaces between patches. I would also label the patch panel as a Realtor would identify your rooms, aka "Bedroom 1" instead of "Jakes Room". Assuming you would have two links in each bedroom and two bedrooms, you could have BR1a, BR1b, BR1c, BR2a, BR2b, BR2c. You would then have BR1c, BR2b, BR2c not wired up. If you have two floors, then the top patch panel would be the upstairs, and the bottom the downstairs. This does up the cost now a bit. What it does is prevents trying to be cute and have BR1, BR2 Kitchen1 all nice and tight and then realize you really need two in Bedroom 1 because they are across the room and you fridge now needs a network connection. I would also suggest buying a box of Rack Screws. These screws do not have threads at the end of the screw. They are really nice because the screw is in the hole and the threads grab right away. I know you wanted to go for bottom dollar, but there are a few upgrades to consider. For your power, there are a few options. There are remote access devices that allow you to start/stop/restart power to individual plugs. There also power conditioners. I have my cable modem here, and I use a battery backup. (I also have a cell network extender, firewall and PBX)
Fine vlog, the only nick-pick I have is, you strain-relieved your first punch with that yellow tie, but did not do with subsequence punches, as long as the whole cable bundle is held nearby and is not weighting down on the punches you should be fine.
Nice but kind of overkill for a home. You run aormal 4 port switch to the different rooms then you just add more switches as needed depending on which room needs it. less complicated cable management
Wishing I could pull this off in my home. Working with three floors would be a nightmare. Networking only needs to be in the second and third floor, but I'd want the equipment on the first.
+Levi Dunn yes second and third floors are tough. In my house there are a few telephone jacks upstairs that they used Cat 5e on. Eventually I'll just remove the phone jacks and terminate them with Ethernet keystones and clip the other end at the phone box and run it to my patch panel. Instant Ethernet, using existing cabling.. see if you have the same thing if you don't use land lines.
THIS ALSO MAGNIFIES YOUR WIRELESS CONNECTION FROM EVERY DEVICE? SAY, TV, LAPTOP OR TABLET, AND EVEN CONSOLES, OR GAME PC'S WITH SAY WIRELESS KEYBOARD? OR DO YOU GAVE TO ADD ON WIRELESS ROUTER SIGNAL MAGNIFIERS? GREAT SET UP BY THE WAY.
@Budget Nerd You should patch a cable into the back of patch panel and plug it in to router, then add small 0.25m cable so its neat and doesnt hang over the front.
Finally!! A straight to the point video tutorial that shows everything needed to run a simple home network. I think i'm gonna follow your model and build my home network. Thanks for the video!!
InstaBlaster.
I liked your setup so much that I mimicked it almost entirely. I have a few more devices that I put on some shelves in the rack as well. Thanks for the video.
Nav Rack was setup upside down (top is facing down), the smaller hole on rack should face up.
Very Nice work and explanation of setup and gear.
Thanks! BTW, it's not upside down. There are little slots on the top and bottom of the screw hole.
@@BudgetNerd Awesome then on the Nav Rack.
Your home network video on budget is awesome, 10 stars!
Just finished a new build house. This and your patch panel video really helpful. I now have very similar set up plus all TV/Sat connections. Looks so neat and professional and works reliably.
Tip: Do not use zip ties. The sheathing on the network cable can swell and shrink based on temperature shifts which will cause the zip ties to cut into the cable. Instead spend a couple of bucks on a roll of velcro and cut strips of that to manage your cables.
It's not even that, if you ever need to redo your cable management for whatever reason, you have to cut the zip ties and risk damaging the cables then too.
Made a note of this, cheers!
@@Squirleypoozip ties are reusable. Just use a small awl to prod the tab back.
@@user-ew8ct6fm2o I don't have time for that. Velcro is reusable and just pops right off and goes right back on. Velcro was also flexible and won't cut into the cabling through thermal expansion and contraction. If you are a contractor that I hired to run cabling and you use zip ties you are redoing the job or you are not getting paid because you did not complete the job through the scope of work.
@@Squirleypoo you wouldn't be hiring me cause I would overprice it for being picky. Zip ties would not damage the cabling if you use them properly. You're not suppose to tighten them enough that they can cut into the cabling. Oh and you could try to refuse payment, I would just put a lien on your property as it wouldn't be specified how cables are secured in the scope of work and there is no code against zip ties.
Just a suggestion for others I recently found out about. They offer keystone compatible patch panels that make working on the patch panel more convenient. It also helps if a port dies because you can replace instead of just having to mark it as dead.
Love the neatness. I've done a bunch of office network cable installs and here are a couple of quick notes:
1. Run the cables from the hinged side instead (to the right in the video). This allow you to punch them down, tie them up, and then rotate it back into place with the cables fully mounted.
2. That seems like a lot of metal to mess with your wifi hotspot/router's antennas. Might be better to mount it somewhere away from the rack. The other walls inside the closet, for example.
3. Cable labels are your friend. :) Maybe they're done and I'm not seeing them in the vid? I won't do any kind of install without them anymore (not even car stereo). In very big setups we will write on the cable itself before heat shrinking on something more permanent once the final length is determined.
Good points. Starting at the hinge side is a good idea, my ports would start at 24 and go down instead of 1, but could be worse.
Yeah, the WiFi hotspot seems perfectly fine. Get great reception and speed on wireless, so can't be doing much really.
Thanks for the comment.
@@BudgetNerd Meaningful names help a lot, even in smaller setups like this, so like "Living room 1 .. 4", "Master Bed", etc. Just a bit of time up front saves a bunch down the road. Much easier than having to uncover the port at the other end or having to tone out which one is which.
Your video was one of my few inspirations 2 years ago to build my home network.
I've explored and watched numerous videos like yours, all in hopes for setup ideas... yours is the best by far. Thx
+Gregory Buffi thanks!
My budget is ask my boss if i can take stuff home that is being decommissioned. I love and hate the 3 year rule.
we have a 6 month rule
its the best i have way to much mig wire now lol
Dang we have wait till it breaks rule..
We have to wait until the company files for chapter 7.
That's how I got my servers
My budget is COMMA!!! ask my boss...
Uhh!
I did this after watching this video in 2020.. Cant be happier! nice to have the whole house on wired and take the massive strain off the wifi with so many devices.
I really enjoyed this video. It also shows people they do not have to spend thousands of dollars to create a decent network, good work!
One element I picked up from watching pro vids on networks is the "service loop", a loop of cable that gives you the spare length if you need to fix something. There are other choices that can be used, though they cost more money, such as Keystone connectors which need very little untwisting of the twisted pairs.
General electrical safety: keep your network cabling clear of mains power cabling. I'm in the UK, where we run at 240v, and maybe the electricians in my family made me a little over-cautious.
Some things you show would be difficult here in the UK, because of different house-construction methods. The Keystone system is available here, with connector modules for aerial and audio connections, but there is a different size standard, working in a similar way, that also gets called Keystone by some.
Again, different UK standards, but I would use a PDU that had standard UK power sockets, rather than the IEC types (which you can see on a desktop PCs PSU). It makes it easy to add a wall-wart to power something such as that wi-fi, or a PoE box, or just to provide a USB charging point for a phone.
1 tip on the punchdown panel. You need to maintain the pair twist tolerance all the way from the jacket butt to the panel itself. Very important on Cat6 and up spec cables. Each pair is twisted differently to prevent cross talk. That few inches of untwisting the pairs can drop your network speed a lot. Same goes if installing a RJ45 connector.
+Matthew Barras thanks for the tip. I tried to keep them as twisted as I could.. but it was my first time doing lots of those.
You should be fine. It will work. But if you are a lot slower than 1G. Like 600M or 700M. Just pull the wire out of the blocks. Cut off the wires and rebutt the cable jacket. You should have a max of 1/2" of wire exposed from the jacket butt after you punch down. Do not untwist the pairs. Just spread them enough to slide them in the block teeth and punch. Just a FYI colors and pairs do matter. Follow the standards. On cat 5 you could get away with "It does not matter so long they are the same on both ends of the cable". On cat 6 and up in does matter. On 10G it matters a whole bunch.
+Matthew Barras true.. this is just cat 5e and I'm getting the 1Gbps speed.. on ever line, so I guess I got it this time. Thanks for the tips.
True enough - it has been my experience that you don't run into issues until your cable length goes past 80% of the maximum standard length. Also important is keeping the wire lengths of each pair close to the same.
Having said that, I can't count how many times I have seen improper cat 5 and 6 terminations that still pass 1GB - probably because most cable runs don't get close to the maximum length. The majority of actual problems I have encountered were due to people swapping A&B standards, mislabeling cables, or badly nicking the insulation when they strip off the sheath. All of those problems should have been caught by tests which were supposed to be mandatory; instead I caught them while installing equipment and I ended up taking off the jacks and fixing them.
Matthew Barras Exactly this, you also aren't supposed to strip the wire pairs the punch down does this automatically. Yeah you can still get full speed, but you will create a ton of collisions where packets need to be resent. Also for the in wall work you don't want any wires going near power lines as they too will create a lot of EMI and interference.
It's great to have a home network, and I think it's the best thing you can do on a budget.
You mounted your switch with 4 screws on each bracket. I see you don’t like to live dangerously.
Be safe than sorry.
I thought that 2 how many times I have been in the dc raking equipment and one of those tiny screws disappear”sure 2 will do”🤣🤣
Nice walkthrough of the install. I went through this in my house with a budget of around 500. I had a few more criteria to hit, mainly i wanted a lockable cabinet because I plan to keep a surveillance nvr in there. I did use the same switch and patch panel.
Wes Cameron
Your video was helpful and I was able to completed my task and it pass the wife test.
Very neatly done. Would have gone with a managed 16 port layer 2 switch with PoE+ capability on some of the ports though. Gotta be able to run a more central ceiling mounted AP and VLAN support is a must. Can always buy another unmanaged 16 port switch later on the cheap for expansion.
I like to create separate VLANs for my main, guest, kids networks, and a fourth VLAN for IoT devices and anything else that needs internet connectivity but has questionable security features.
Thanks for sharing.
Why a rack system for home network, people ask.... Because we're nerds, and WE CAN! nuff said. Beautiful setup BN!
Very good looking setup. I need to do something like this, but I have just thrown mine together. And, I'm still working out the bugs. But, glad you walked-through it and had the time to do it right !!! Good job ...
That's a marvelous job in cable management and setup. I appreciates you sharing this that way I can learn.
Appreciate the video! I'm getting my feet wet with RUclips, and a dedicated home network has made things easier.
Good video, but I will give you one tip that you may or may not know about... and that is to use smurf tube and ENT boxes for your network wiring. They even make it just for low voltage/AV/network in orange color. I use it for all my network runs - just mount the box and run the tubing.
For simple wall drops I only run the tubing so it's just a few inches above the top plate of the wall. It makes running additional cable & changing cabling so easy. You can also run it between boxes - I use it this way to run wires between DVRs and wall mounted TVs as you can get it in large enough diameter to run an HDMI cable. It also comes in handy when going from the audio/video distribution panel to the various speaker locations.
Yeah, there's some additional cost but it's worth it down the road if you ever need to add wires.
+Jeremy L Lawson good suggestion. Thank you.
4:28 you've got 110V in the same stud space as data cables. That would fail a code inspection since the 110V would induce noise in the data cables.
Ehhh, that's what shielded ethernet is for.
No, it would fail the inspection because it might come into contact with the LV cable and cause high voltage to be introduced into that system. The code doesn't care about data interference. It only cares about safety.
He also doesn't have any of the electrical wire stapled to the wall. It basically only held there by the outlet boxes.
id like to do something like this myself. Very clean work, looks well organized and professional... i feel that will be my downfall (usually is, especially in PC building) where i start off strong with cable management but after several "undo's" and another hours worth of routing i get in such a rush near the finish line i just start stuffing in cables and cramming cover plates over stuff and turn the window towards the wall so nobody can see my shame. again, great looking build!
Ah, you’ve educated me about undiscovered treasures, namely the volume and low price of used business rack mount components!
Far as that full length piano hinge goes- you can use a Dremel cutting wheel to cut down that strip into sections so whenever you need to just open one section, it's all separated for great ease of use! That's what I do with mine and my friends setups whenever helping them along, and it always works very well and goes off without a hitch
That is a good idea!
Glad I could lay down some knowledge: albeit over a year too late.. . But it's something you can still do, and it's a very handy mod to make use of
Dope setup, I totally need to run some Ethernet veins in my house
I will do this in 2020.
@@CircuitkungTH its time.
Really like the video,
i always seek tech tips that are affordable and doable,
kindly continue on producing such content also let us in about the research you did.
also keep on making budget tech videos, do a budget solar panel or budget home plumbing or water system
Cable Labeling > Cable Management - I've been in "server closets" that look like buzzard nests, but the labeling was so precise it didn't matter much.
Why not both?
I just finished my similar set up un my new house. Well the data part anyways. I have some coaxial cable I would like to find some rack equipment for and make just as nice. But this is a great start. Thank you foe showing me how to get this done.
Great video, much appreciated. The music makes feel like I should sitting in a motorized chair making and making robot sounds with my mouth tho.
But did it pass the wife test? Thats the real question. XD
+Robert Hicks it has passed the wife test, from what I can tell. She has only said two things about it, "I have no idea what that is," and "it looks like mission control." I will consider that a pass.
ben johnson "mission control" lol, little do they know that's quite the compliment
+David Ferdinand yeah I thought it was cool.
give her her own wireless network and call it Wife-Fi
DUSTERDUDE238
Damn great idea
Really useful for learning how to set up a wired home network, my fam have always managed on WiFi but with the new setup we're installing we can use ethernet and we will have a better WiFi connection. It won't be quite as good as yours but it will definitely be a massive improvement, thanks for sharing your knowledge
Thanks to your video I encourage myself to do the same.
If this was Linus it would've fallen and left a hole in the wall
Mostly would of dropped it as well..
Hi
if it was linus the whole house would fall
@@AdamLazhar Lol yh
#LinusDropTips
Never thought of doing a wall mount rack. My setup is a mess. Thanks for the video.
Simple and to the point. Now I understand this whole lab a bit more
OH SHIT BOYS!!!! HE'S GOT HIS OWN SIPR DROP! looks good man, i am jealous, because i dont have the ability to run a network in my current house.
I have three questions for you:
Are you in the military?
Are you living in the barracks?
Why are you calling that a SIPR drop?
If you wanted to save a little money you could've just run 1 or 2 ethernet cables to your entertainment center and then added a switch. Also, I've repurposed old routers into switches by disabling DHCP and wireless capabilities if anyone wanted to save even a little more money.
+Bman8862 those are good ideas.
Bman8862
I'd agree, Linksys or Netgear or others offer inexpensive switches ($25-$40 Gigabit). In my office sure for troubleshooting make them all home runs, but a home it's not necessary.
Ask anyone who works in enterprise networking, cascading switches.. especially in a managed environment is a fucking nightmare. I mean, I would spend the extra money just to run everything back to a central switch. But yes, you are right, good ideas to save money!
+Nicholas Smith I agree! Cascading switches is something I'm not very familiar with yet. Luckily I won't need to mess with that with my home setup.
Can I ask, why did you go with a frame rack instead of a cabinet style self contained rack? I think it would have maybe worked better in your situation?
good detailed video. I do that for a living and you hit all the bases. good explanation and pictures step by step.
I’m in Canada 🇨🇦 so of course our prices differ but I am planning on a similar build. Everything’s sitting in my cart 🛒 on Amazon. I went with a “smart” switch, same rack, power strip, patch panel, 🤜 punch kit..... all to network my 🏡 house.... I’ll also being doing a video presentation like yourself. Thank you for the run through.
Dude I have to give you props on your set up..(👍nice!)
"Wife test" LOL, obviously you never met me ;) I'm a woman who handles all of our networking in the house and buys the rackmount equipment. My husband would never meet my very fussy hardware demands when it comes to high-end networking equipment ;)
F**KING amazing so neat and clean , love it , i give you a A++ in cable management and professional looking
Thanks!
Nice work. I did the same thing except I mounted my patch panel in the wall. My interior studs happen to be farther than 16" apart. I put a block of wood in the wall to mount the patch panel to. The panel is flushed mounted to the drywall. I then bought a rack mount shelf for my Cisco switch and also put my setup above the top closet shelf so my coat rack would still be free.
The one thing I didn't think about was doing a coax patch panel for distribution in the house. All my coax runs to one location outside currently. Someday I'll reroute it to the closet and add a patch panel.
+boostedmaniac thanks for the comment. Never heard of mounting the patch panel IN the wall before. That's kind of cool.
ben johnson
Mounting the panel in the wall was to help conceal the wires from the back of the panel going into the wall. Although you did a nice job of running them cleanly into the wall.
+boostedmaniac yeah it's a cool idea.
Good video. People think they can't benefit from a wired house because their internet isn't fast enough, but I think they can.
The more devices you can offload from 2.4gHz to 5gHz and wired, the faster the speed on your phones, tablets, and other roaming devices. This also frees up RAM and processing power of the router, making web pages respond a little faster.
Very good point!
@@BudgetNerd thanks! My setup is jank compared to yours.
2 5-port switches because I didn't get an 8-port, going to 3 access points. The APs are older dual band routers, so whatever is nearby and stationary like printers or Chromecasts get put on the 5gHz, everything capable gets plugged in, and the 2.4gHz is pretty reliable and quick.
The main router has always been the newest piece of equipment. With the wireless turned off, it always runs very cool and reliable. Every couple years it gets rotated out and replaces the oldest access point. I'm overdue for a new main router, and I'm leaning towards an edgerouter from ubiquity.
I do not see any labeling on the cables, how did you keep track of where the cables was routed from?
+Jesper Vikström I label the ports on the wall plates, which corresponds to the numbers on the patch panel. Then I just "patch" a little cable from the patch panel to any port on the switch.
Alright, thanks for the reply!
+Jesper Vikström each cable that runs through the house goes from a wall plate somewhere in the house to a position on the patch panel. Each spot on the patch panel has a number. So if the cable terminates on the patch panel position 5, I write or label the wall jack on the other end with 5. Then I run a "Ethernet patch cable" from spot 5 on the patch panel to the switch.
ben johnson very well said.
Just wondering did you label first or did you go back and check later? (I always label all cables even if just with a sharpie, when pulling. Maybe just used to it from my commercial experience.) Also, just a tip, it's easier to punch down your cables the other way. I know you said you wouldn't use the hinge, but if you run them down the side with the hinge you can have a cleaner path back to the wall, also if you ever do decide to use the hinge it'll work fine. Lastly maybe use an angle grinder/dremel/hacksaw to cut the hinge to fit just the panel so you can swing it open whenever and not have to remove the rest of the devices.
How did you manage to pass the "wife test"? In my experience that's the most challenging aspect - easier to build a Mars Lander.
I know how to do this but I like to watch this kind of videos.
I'm glad I found your video. You inspired me to make my own network! I wish I recorded it.
The rack is upside down, you can tell by the wall mounting holes.
+Hector Monita the logo on the side is right side up.. are you sure?
Ah! you might be right, im just basing it on 4:03 in the video but we dont get to see the bottom holes, they could be upright. don't mind me, just giving my unsolicited two cents
Yeah it's upside down
+Hector Monita no worries!
If you watch around 01:53 the holes appear to have the cut outs top and bottom. I see why you have thought that from 04:00 though as it does look like the slot has been put the wrong way up. My guess would be they're made to work either way and a logo is put on after.
2:01 "Does have a 12 inch depth, which should allow enough space for most any typical rackmounted equipment".
(Looks to left to see my Dell PowerEdge 2950 server yet to be installed, which looks *at least 3 feet long*...)
No joke! I ended up putting my 2950 on a rack shelf because my rack wasn't deep enough to mount the rails.
Even if that rack could accommodate that depth, it would never hold that much weight. I think my DL380 G7 would probably make a pancake out of it. But you wouldn't want to put a 2950 anywhere near a living space because they're so incredibly loud.
Funny you should mention that... as mine is only 15ft away from my bedroom with only two un-insulated walls between me and the jet engine Dell rebranded as a server. Which is 90% of the reason I just use it as a multi-core workhorse when I need it, and a learning playground. Still wish I could actually use the rails I have for it though =(
3 words for ya. Modular Patch Panel.
Makes all the difference in the world.
+Josh Bailey lots of people have said that. I'll have to look in to that for next time. Thanks!
Just a couple of thoughts and ideas: I'd invest in an UPS and instead of that punch out I'd simply use a Rj45 crimping tool and install connector plugs.
The next thing if your house is sprawled out, a Mesh system like Google WiFi or Plume. Both are affordable and work well enough for a home.
Good luck!
A UPS is a good idea. I looked in to those crimping tools, the ones I found weren't cheap, and I don't have a tons of ports in my house yet.
ben johnson
Most crimping tools cost about $10, and kits $20-$30, but a few are more. My error, I thought you ran 15-20 cables, but okay.
+D Jaquith maybe I was looking in the wrong place. So far I've ran 11 cables.
ben johnson
I didn't count them, it just looked more. The crimping tool is great for custom length patch cables and it's cheaper to buy a roll of cable and make cables. It's easy.
I'm not trying to make a big deal about it. Do it however you see fit.
I missed my old job as a voice/data/fiber installer.
+yopparaiiii I think I would enjoy that job too :)
yopparaiiii I just asked the guy that was installing the new network at work if I could work with his.l company and ironically enough he gave me his contact info and I hope and pray I could get this job. It's something I would love to do not to mention the money is good too
This job is not for everyone, but if you know what you are getting into, it can be a lot of fun.
Wish you the best. When you do get in, practice 'Safety First'.
For sure. Thanks for the heads up.
what are you doing now.
well done sir
One of the better network/cabinet tours on youtube. Great video and nice setup. (our setup is like your before setup!) Where you say you cant swing out your patch panel, you could take a hacksaw and cut the hinge top and bottom of the patch panel so you could swing out just that section?
+Accessfm thank you. That is very kind. Yes you could in theory cut the hinge part like that around the patch panel, then yes it would swing on its own without needing to remove anything else.
For future reference it’s easier to punch down on a flat surface if you take the patch panel off the rack and lay it down. Also wouldn’t recommend zip ties for two reasons. If you over tighten them you run the risk of messing with the UTP inside the jacket, and when it’s time to upgrade or add to your panel you’ll want to cut those zip ties and run the risk of nipping a cable. Velcro straps are relatively cheap. In your case it’s also not a bad idea to wire map, and verify your cables to make sure you’re getting good cross talk and that your pairs all match up correctly.
The network cables will eventually be TERMINATED.
Cool video. But OVERKILL at its finest.
From a physical point of view i like, two thumps up. From a software side of view its either not shown or lacking heavily, neutral.
For example: I hope you have installed a good FW for getting the most out of your network, from your own ISP, security and throughput.
Also its 100% viable if you want to purchase refurbished Cisco equipment or equipment thats no longer supported for your layer two and layer three,
getting industry capabilities behind a strong FW for very very little.
Nice! Just trolling looking for diy videos to link to my customers. Networking is the biggest concern for home computer enthusiasts. Cabling and associated hardware is 95% of networking which scares most folks off, not to mention the cost of a professional doing the wiring. I run a one-man computer repair/cleanup/upgrade/network business from home. I school all my customers on the benefits of a wired verses wifi network and give them a hand doing it. Most times its as simple as running a single ethernet cable from their cable/phone modem or gateway to their computer with instant improvement in service and connection latency issues. I can give lots of help for a mere 12 pack of Coronas! 😁 🍺
That did NOT age well
That time when I envy cardboard walls. I can't easily put network through my thick stone walls =\
Just missing a UPS :)
Damien LEFEVRE came here to say this. My network stack can run for many hours on a UPS and i still have connection in a blackout.
@@cjkline83 I did this because my security cameras require wifi and its great, I have a pretty small UPS as well and it ran for 8 hours the only time my power went out
I would recommend adding a ups I did to my very similar setup and it's awesome still having internet and wifi when the power drops
+Sam Schultz good idea, I could but I was trying to keep costs down. Perhaps down the road. Power doesn't go out here in Idaho often, and when it is down, it's nice to do something else for a change.
ah fair enough I experience a lot of brown outs where I am so having clean and stable power helps keep internet smooth. it's nice to have a big ups too for emergency situations you can charge a cell phone many many times off one.
+Sam Schultz I do have separate things like that, to charge phones etc during brown/blackout, but nothing for my network setup. Never thought it was necessary for me, but you know down the road. Thanks for the comments!
Crank out some more videos, man. Your videos for your network and hardware are great quality and very informative. I'd love to see some more that fall under the "Home networking" umbrella. Talk your wife into letting you build a cheap-o server and tie it into what you already have in place and do a plex setup or something.
+J Smith thanks for the kind words. I do have some more in the works. Your Plex idea is a good one. I am currently using Windows Media center for that sort of thing now.
No zip ties, use velcro....
Velcro is pretty sweet for this sort of thing for sure! I do have some where the amount of cables will change frequently. You can see it at 7:50.
Damm thats looking cool
Now all you need is a ups and you are set. Good job!
This project was done on a low budget, so a UPS would make it more expensive. Also, it would be overkill for this setup, unless there's something more important like a NAS, NVR, or some other server
Thanks for sharing your setup. Gives some great ideas for others on how they could go about getting their setup going.
+Charles Leonard no prob
So all of this is for better wifi? sorry I'm only 13 so I don't really know but interesting video
TechnoBike HD basically kid, wifi doesn't mean Internet. Wifi is a wireless way of delivering Internet. You can deliver internet through wires as well. So imagine one of the blue wires being connected to your phone all the time. You'll never have internet issues unless they come from your Internet service provider or the modem that's accepting the connection from your ISP.
Thanks
Actually, WiFi is a way of delivering network access.
Simple Man yes - correct, was trying to simplify it as much as possible, my younger cousin thinks "wifi" is simply Internet, always refers to his wifi being faster than mine but his intention is to say his isp is quicker
Ah, I see :)
Official looking? "Professional"... the word you're looking for is "professional".
I think official sounded just fine.
Thank you for this video. Gave me a good grasp of what I needed for setting up my own home network when I moved into my new location.
This video really in budget, there are many youtuber have ton of rack server and very huge rack
Please for everyone's sake change the intro. But the rest of the video is good
hey I agree, I don't like that intro either.
Then dont use it?
Check out my other vids. I don't.
just one thing ... that would never pass an electrical inspection
Why not, out of curiosity?
Power in the same studs as data is the biggest problem. The power cables will induce an AC current in the data cables.
Mannn i don’t even have a house, wish I did now. This bud be hitten different.
If you ever upgrade to a managed switch you can do port bonding and up that throughput should an application require it. Nice clean install BTW.
+hallis1 thanks. A managed switch would be awesome. I mess with those at work.. budget wouldn't allow it at home yet, but maybe one day..
that electrical wiring at 4:24 isn't up to code. the romex connector is stripped out of the compression slot which looks like you completely pushed out like a novice, and there are no staples securing the romex to the wall. i mean make a little effort.
Pretty fail.
do you feel good when you shit on another persons hard work? Work that has entertained you at no cost to yourself.
+CxnTrxL ARE YOU NOT ENTERTAINED!
CxnTrxL people watch things like this and think: "well that's good enough I'll do mine like that". Then they get a fire and endanger the lives of others. So yea pointing out the flaws in something potentially life threatening so nobody else does it makes me feel good. And it should make the person doing it realize what they have done is wrong and correct it. I should note that, everything else is done well. Although I recently learned that cat cables should be minimally untwisted (like 1/2 in) for optimal performance.
Wew! You are on top of things!
I have to say my network is better than this now. BUT this is the video that pushed me over the top to actually run cat6a and set it up like this properly. Thank you.
If you setup CAT6a like this you're not following the standard and it won't perform as good... You need to retain the twist of each pair up to the very last moment to the LSA strips, not like this where there's quite a length of unwound pairs... Also, cables folding like that like the most right one especially is far out of the spec and just won't do 10GbE.
This is fine for hobby, but in therms of quality it's rather horrible.
Excellent video. Really enjoyed watching. Well done.
The cable pass through plate is mounted upside down. The waterfall part of the backplate is there to flow with the downward direction of the cable.
+wayneco yeah.. you could be right.
I just purchased NETGEAR 12-Port Gigabit Layer 2 Managed Switch GSM7212 ,I researched and every Techie say you have more control over your settings. it is a 2006 hope it works for my needs. should have it today! setting and waiting.
Good job. I like ur set up.
Omg under $200, that’s so awesome man 🙌🏽
Thanks for this video and putting everything in simple easy to follow language!!
If the patch panel was on the bottom, you could cut the bottom portion of the hinge so it swings independently for when you want to make changes or troubleshoot.
That is a good idea!
@@BudgetNerd thank you.
I have an issue with your patch panel. I would suggest that you have more patches, and have spaces between patches. I would also label the patch panel as a Realtor would identify your rooms, aka "Bedroom 1" instead of "Jakes Room". Assuming you would have two links in each bedroom and two bedrooms, you could have BR1a, BR1b, BR1c, BR2a, BR2b, BR2c. You would then have BR1c, BR2b, BR2c not wired up. If you have two floors, then the top patch panel would be the upstairs, and the bottom the downstairs.
This does up the cost now a bit. What it does is prevents trying to be cute and have BR1, BR2 Kitchen1 all nice and tight and then realize you really need two in Bedroom 1 because they are across the room and you fridge now needs a network connection. I would also suggest buying a box of Rack Screws. These screws do not have threads at the end of the screw. They are really nice because the screw is in the hole and the threads grab right away.
I know you wanted to go for bottom dollar, but there are a few upgrades to consider. For your power, there are a few options. There are remote access devices that allow you to start/stop/restart power to individual plugs. There also power conditioners. I have my cable modem here, and I use a battery backup. (I also have a cell network extender, firewall and PBX)
www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/HPS--middle-atlantic-products-hps-rack-screws-25-pack?&
Fine vlog, the only nick-pick I have is, you strain-relieved your first punch with that yellow tie, but did not do with subsequence punches, as long as the whole cable bundle is held nearby and is not weighting down on the punches you should be fine.
Nice but kind of overkill for a home. You run aormal 4 port switch to the different rooms then you just add more switches as needed depending on which room needs it. less complicated cable management
+Monsieur Noir perhaps, but anything worth doing, is worth over doing, I always say..
Just saw this video and liked it a fair amount. The only issue I have is the wireless router being inside a closet. Other than that very nice setup.
I get it's not an ideal spot, if I was having issues, I would move it, but it works great. So there it stays.
Very awesome then. I do like your videos a lot and glad I found them. I'm off to find it if I need a patch panel now.
Wishing I could pull this off in my home. Working with three floors would be a nightmare. Networking only needs to be in the second and third floor, but I'd want the equipment on the first.
+Levi Dunn yes second and third floors are tough. In my house there are a few telephone jacks upstairs that they used Cat 5e on. Eventually I'll just remove the phone jacks and terminate them with Ethernet keystones and clip the other end at the phone box and run it to my patch panel. Instant Ethernet, using existing cabling.. see if you have the same thing if you don't use land lines.
Awesome layout!! Pretty dang cool
Pretty slick. Thanks for showing how to do, it's inspiring to tech newbies
beautiful work . an inspiration to anyone who's looking to having there network set up done right .
THIS ALSO MAGNIFIES YOUR WIRELESS CONNECTION FROM EVERY DEVICE? SAY, TV, LAPTOP OR TABLET, AND EVEN CONSOLES, OR GAME PC'S WITH SAY WIRELESS KEYBOARD? OR DO YOU GAVE TO ADD ON WIRELESS ROUTER SIGNAL MAGNIFIERS? GREAT SET UP BY THE WAY.
This is great. Just found your channel. I will be looking for a home server video, but this is an excellent place for me to start. Thank you!
@Budget Nerd You should patch a cable into the back of patch panel and plug it in to router, then add small 0.25m cable so its neat and doesnt hang over the front.
+TheNanoRulez I did do that actually. See the very end if the video.