Great explanation. I had this problem on my '66 Nova, but the rod was adjusted too long, and my rear disc brakes were dragging and heating up. I made my own depth tool to fix it. Once the proper clearance was set, the dragging brakes went away. Opposite of your problem but just as annoying. Thanks
I’m dealing with this right now on my 65 f100. All of my brake parts have been replaced. I was able to bleed the rear brakes just fine but nothing on the front brakes. A guy on an F100 forum suggested the same thing so I’m going to give it a shot tomorrow.
Got a partnumber on the master cylinder u using…i currebtly have discbrakes in front and drums on rear but want to upgrade my master cylinder in time for carshow.
I wonder if the shaft is adjusted out to far if it would cause the Willwood to leak fluid. Mine Willwood is not even a year old and it leaked and killed my booster
Hi, I converted my manual drum brakes to (YJ jeep) power disc brakes in my 76 cj7 jeep. I noticed the piston rod was slightly longer on the disc brakes than the drums. So lowered my pedal to allow the extra length. After converting to disc, I now I have soft brakes. I bled the system 4 plus times. Don't think there's air. But I didn't bench bleed the mc. And the pedal hardens up after I pump the brakes. I read I could adjust the piston rod in the booster. Any Idea On how to fix it? Thanks for the video.
Bench bleeding the MC would be the first step, you may still have air in there. The next step I would take would be to check the length of the pin and make sure that you aren't resting on the MC piston and depressing it slightly. If the pin is too long it will make it impossible to get all the air out of the system. Also, make sure that your engine is drawing enough vacuum for the booster with a vac gauge.
No, you can have a regular proportioning valve/combination valve. This is an adjustable proportioning valve to change the bias between front and rear brakes.
Just found your channel..I also have a 72 Chevelle...looking at putting on a Wilwood master cylinder.
Thank you my friend! 73 SS Chevelle with the exact problem which your video resolved.
Great explanation. I had this problem on my '66 Nova, but the rod was adjusted too long, and my rear disc brakes were dragging and heating up. I made my own depth tool to fix it. Once the proper clearance was set, the dragging brakes went away. Opposite of your problem but just as annoying. Thanks
I've heard of that being a problem as well. I also think the constant pressure on the master cylinder isn't great.
I’m dealing with this right now on my 65 f100. All of my brake parts have been replaced. I was able to bleed the rear brakes just fine but nothing on the front brakes. A guy on an F100 forum suggested the same thing so I’m going to give it a shot tomorrow.
Might have just save me a head ache been dealing with soft brakes, gonna give this a try
Got a partnumber on the master cylinder u using…i currebtly have discbrakes in front and drums on rear but want to upgrade my master cylinder in time for carshow.
Thinking this may be my issue with the soft shit brake feeling I'm getting from my durango.
I wonder if the shaft is adjusted out to far if it would cause the Willwood to leak fluid. Mine Willwood is not even a year old and it leaked and killed my booster
Constant pressure on the MC piston is definitely bad. I’m sure it could cause the seal to fail.
What brake booster this on I'm looking for a brake booster rod like yours you just pulled out? Some how found yous video
I can't remember the brand, its from Lordco.
Hi, I converted my manual drum brakes to (YJ jeep) power disc brakes in my 76 cj7 jeep. I noticed the piston rod was slightly longer on the disc brakes than the drums. So lowered my pedal to allow the extra length. After converting to disc, I now I have soft brakes. I bled the system 4 plus times. Don't think there's air. But I didn't bench bleed the mc. And the pedal hardens up after I pump the brakes. I read I could adjust the piston rod in the booster. Any Idea On how to fix it? Thanks for the video.
Bench bleeding the MC would be the first step, you may still have air in there. The next step I would take would be to check the length of the pin and make sure that you aren't resting on the MC piston and depressing it slightly. If the pin is too long it will make it impossible to get all the air out of the system. Also, make sure that your engine is drawing enough vacuum for the booster with a vac gauge.
Do you want to sell the tool?
Did the adjustment raise your peddle height?
If it did, it was negligible. I only adjusted a few mm on the pin.
Your doing it upside down. The shot end goes to the master land the long end goes to the booster.
Thank you helped out a lot what an awesome video. Do you need that adjusting valve on the side of the master? Thank you
No, you can have a regular proportioning valve/combination valve. This is an adjustable proportioning valve to change the bias between front and rear brakes.
@@brendanmegannety7595 thank you👍