That's my question. I think I got noise from the control arm because I have changed the sway bar link, bushing, outer tie rod and Struts. The noise still there but less noisy. The strut is the real problem. It has to be the control arm 2009 Corolla with 190k. but the round bushing/control arm still looks good. Not sure where the noise come from.
I’m sure you sorted by now but for others = yes you need take that housing off to get the lower control arm bolt out to replace passenger ctrl arm. And FYI to get driver side ctrl arm bolt out it’s best to remove the front and driver side motor mount then jack up motor a tad then bolt comes out- for 2010 Corolla at least.
Great Video. Did you ever have a leak from the 2 allen plugs underneath the assembly? Mine are rusted and started to leak right after changing the oil.
I have never seen it leak from the allen plugs but I also live in generally rust-free area. I could see how it could rust and cause a leak. Fortunately for us this repair was pretty straight forward. Thanks for watching.
@@dgnvg I would first check to see if the dealership sells the two seals. If they do then the repair would be similar except you just remove the two allen seals of instead of the whole housing.
Good video. I believe I have a leak around the filter housing, but it's not damaged. Do those internal o-rings fail over time? Wondering if I should replace them. 2010 corolla 150k miles. I'm aware other parts can leak in this area, but I'm most curious about the o-rings. Thanks in advance.
I noticed some grey residue from the bolts after removal. Not sure if it is threadlocker or anti seize. Did you put anything on yours ? I don’t want the bolts to come loose not sure if I should apply something to the threads upon installation. Thanks!
Or go with OEM toyota parts and just replace it to accept spin on filters. www.armstrongfamilyblog.com/armstrongracing/the-2016-toyota-2zr-engine-oil-filter-conversion
This has been a total pain in the rear. Diy with a friend with the tools. I was not the lucky one to have an easy unscrew cartridge filter. Nope. We broke all the tabs off the plastic cap. So I bought the filter housing bracket as you see for replacement cuz of the gouging in the threads. But then I scrolled up or down in RUclips and found a simple spin on filter converter. I wrote Toyota for just the threaded tube that some have. Nope, not for your model he said. So futher researching I found the golden ticket for a spin on can WITH anti-drain back valve. All can filters have it. But all cartridge filters DON'T have it. ruclips.net/video/62Ptx6n6d64/видео.html My 2012 Toyota Corolla Sport 1.8l L4 has a WIX spin on filter. No more cartridge pain in the rear. Good for some. Not for me.
metal housing was damaged.. for sure.. i showed in the video how badly damaged it was... Jiffy Lube guys somehow got the metal guard between the housing the grooves and damaged it. It hasn't leaked since this repair.
It’s looking like it be better off taking the housing to do oil change rather then mess with the tool haha thanks for this. Helps a lot.
Is this the same for an 09 Corolla Xrs?
Thanks for the detail in your video
FYI, it is necessary to remove this housing in order to remove control arm.
That's my question. I think I got noise from the control arm because I have changed the sway bar link, bushing, outer tie rod and Struts. The noise still there but less noisy. The strut is the real problem. It has to be the control arm 2009 Corolla with 190k. but the round bushing/control arm still looks good. Not sure where the noise come from.
I’m sure you sorted by now but for others = yes you need take that housing off to get the lower control arm bolt out to replace passenger ctrl arm. And FYI to get driver side ctrl arm bolt out it’s best to remove the front and driver side motor mount then jack up motor a tad then bolt comes out- for 2010 Corolla at least.
FYI the motor does not need to be jacked up with manual trans only with the automatic.@@johnnyBqwazy
Great Video. Did you ever have a leak from the 2 allen plugs underneath the assembly? Mine are rusted and started to leak right after changing the oil.
I have never seen it leak from the allen plugs but I also live in generally rust-free area. I could see how it could rust and cause a leak. Fortunately for us this repair was pretty straight forward. Thanks for watching.
@@wrenchgroove9387 I have the same problem, New York state loves to use salt, how did you do with repair ? 2015 corolla
@@dgnvg I would first check to see if the dealership sells the two seals. If they do then the repair would be similar except you just remove the two allen seals of instead of the whole housing.
Good video. I believe I have a leak around the filter housing, but it's not damaged. Do those internal o-rings fail over time? Wondering if I should replace them. 2010 corolla 150k miles. I'm aware other parts can leak in this area, but I'm most curious about the o-rings. Thanks in advance.
Do you know if this could be done on a 2012 Toyota Camry 2.5L engine ? I have the same problem with the housing being damaged
Check this out....
ruclips.net/video/62Ptx6n6d64/видео.html
Did you ever solve this problem?
When you buy the part does come with the O rings?
nope, you have to buy them separately but dealer should help you out in finding them.
Great video!! Thank you for the information it really helped me out.
glad it helped!
I noticed some grey residue from the bolts after removal. Not sure if it is threadlocker or anti seize. Did you put anything on yours ? I don’t want the bolts to come loose not sure if I should apply something to the threads upon installation. Thanks!
I put a little blue (medium strength) thread-locker. Make sure you don't over-tighten them.
Thank you so much this video helped me alot
Why not install an adapter and do away with that internal filter and junk plastic cap?
I didn't know that was an option. good to know. Although doubt my cousin would want her car modified.
Or go with OEM toyota parts and just replace it to accept spin on filters. www.armstrongfamilyblog.com/armstrongracing/the-2016-toyota-2zr-engine-oil-filter-conversion
Unbelievable them gouges in the threads. That's another reason to diy.
You want it done right. I do it myself or explain it to a mechanic.
Exactly Robert!
This has been a total pain in the rear.
Diy with a friend with the tools. I was not the lucky one to have an easy unscrew cartridge filter. Nope. We broke all the tabs off the plastic cap.
So I bought the filter housing bracket as you see for replacement cuz of the gouging in the threads. But then I scrolled up or down in RUclips and found a simple spin on filter converter. I wrote Toyota for just the threaded tube that some have. Nope, not for your model he said. So futher researching I found the golden ticket for a spin on can WITH anti-drain back valve. All can filters have it. But all cartridge filters DON'T have it.
ruclips.net/video/62Ptx6n6d64/видео.html
My 2012 Toyota Corolla Sport 1.8l L4 has a WIX spin on filter. No more cartridge pain in the rear. Good for some. Not for me.
Plastic filter piece would be damaged not the metal housing
metal housing was damaged.. for sure.. i showed in the video how badly damaged it was... Jiffy Lube guys somehow got the metal guard between the housing the grooves and damaged it. It hasn't leaked since this repair.