Hey Bill, I’ve had similar things happen as I mentioned in the last video comments about my NASCAR Tauruses and with some of my other model projects. I found the big rattle cans have a thicker paint pigment and heavier spray than you really want to use on the models. Rustoleum and Krylon are fine for painting your lawnmower or patio furniture but it was never consistent for smaller models. I learned to take my time (even when I’m rushing) and use the airbrush with a paint intended for models, like the Tamiya Fine Surface Primer is intended for. I’m not sure why the white paint wrinkles up but the red and blue don’t. It could be that the clear coat is going on too wet and working like paint thinner on the white. I try to make my paints and clear coat go on tacky but not wet. I use more air and less paint and spray from a little farther back so it’s got slightly more time to evaporate the thinner. I hope I typed that in an understandable way. For my model trains, I used to love the Floquil Railroad Colors paint line for many reasons but it just went on beautifully. They cancelled that and introduced a water based paint that I despise. I ruined several HO railroad models that took me months to build, modify, detail, paint… then have to strip and scrub carefully so I didn’t break the details off, then repaint with another brand of paint that uses real thinner, not water. When I got into racing and painting my cars, I used my model railroad experience as a lesson, choosing to try Testors and a little Testors brand thinner in my airbrush. I can mask it in a few hours but usually wait overnight, then paint a second color, etc.. until it’s time to add the decals (sealed to the decal sheet with the Krylon Crystal Clear) and once the decals are set and dry, I spray with a Testors brand clear or dull coat, depending on what I want the paint finish to look like. Maybe it’s time for me to make some videos too. Maybe I’ll try recording the Braille Racer Twin Mill I’m planning to paint for my beagle, Brownie.
Oh, I have had these sorts of pains with paint. Especially when I was rushing to complete builds. So I feel your pain. I try hard to use the same brand/type of paint and have had far less issues. In saying that, my paint jobs are far less glamorous than yours!1 I can see some guys have given some helpful advice. I am not expert when it comes to painting! Cheers mate!
😭 Even on a phone screen I could see the defects before you zoomed in. I'd trust Stoopid Fish & Billy's Midway over anything that I would offer here. Some puzzle piece ain't fitting that's for certain. Whether it's the temp/humidity during application or the products used in conjunction. . .I haven't seen consistently bad results from earlier processes 😢
Ok, my two cents here.....Its not the Tamiya Primer for starters. I use it on all my builds. Ive never used Krylon but Have tried Rustoleum and it wrinkles every time. Even if you get it laid down, it tends to wrinkle when you clear it (even with rustoleum clear!?) Personally if I have to use a Rattle can, I get Duplicolor paint and clear coat....
@@TheGargoylesDen This right here! I agree... The rattle can fleet is a wrinkle fest! So many chances for error. If I want a good finish my go to is 1. Strip the old paint 2. Wire brush the surface 3. 1 or 2 coats of Tamiya fine primer... dry over night, you can speed up the drying time with a heat gun if you are in a hurry to get to the next step... 4. place a blop or two of microsol or microset on the spot to take the decal 5. Plop the decal into the spot 6. Use a q-tip to squeegee out the air bubbles and ensure it is settled into the nooks and crannies 7. Wait until dry... over night 8. Squirt on gloss clearcoat... now I have issues with the rattle cans being so unprodictable. 2X being the worst on the car but it works great sealing my inkjet printed decals. My go to clear is automotive 2K gloss shot through my airbrush... that just works the best. All the rattle cans WILL GIVE YOU AN ISSUE... not everytime and some not most of the time... but often enough to really get under your skin. IMHO, the nozzle dispenses too much paint and it can act as a solvent for the layer below. It is hard to get a good thin coat from a rattle can. When I did the SOO LINE railcar and Safety Caboose for Shavano Mountain for Mark, I had to redo the Caboose a couple of times because I tried the 2X clear over 2X yellow after many days of drying and it bubbled like a madman. Nothing I tried could get that to go down straight. It was an experiment... right? lol, yep... so no more 2X rattle can top coat unless it is a dull coat for a badlands type car where wrinkles are fine. I'll save the gloss for the decals and when it is gone, I will look around for something else as it is too much work to bust out the airbrush for a small decal set.
You do not need to shoot gloss white over the Tamiya primer... just put your decals on the white primer and then a thin gloss top coat... not two top coats and not heavy...
Just be careful if the primer or paint aren’t glossy, the decal will likely trap air bubbles under it and once you spray the clear, the decal will show all of the bubbles and may even get an odd shine to it. I painted one of my silver HO scale locomotives and the silver wasn’t glossy enough and after I clear coated it, the clear decal area looks like a mirror. Very odd things can happen. I’ve had some better success if I use white cleaning vinegar or Solvaset under the decal when I apply it. You have to work quickly with the Solvaset or the decal will deform. Vinegar or Microscale’s Micro-Set and Micro-Sol work slower.
@ nope... the Tamiya primer is ultra fine and prevents the issues you put forward... and I would not recommend putting decals on any other primer or matte paint without first shooting a gloss coat but the tamiya primer is different... but yes, a setting solvent is the way to go with any decals... micro sol or micro set is my go to but there are other good ones. I'd throw up a quick vid on it but there are already so many great ones out there.
Hey Bill, I’ve had similar things happen as I mentioned in the last video comments about my NASCAR Tauruses and with some of my other model projects. I found the big rattle cans have a thicker paint pigment and heavier spray than you really want to use on the models. Rustoleum and Krylon are fine for painting your lawnmower or patio furniture but it was never consistent for smaller models. I learned to take my time (even when I’m rushing) and use the airbrush with a paint intended for models, like the Tamiya Fine Surface Primer is intended for.
I’m not sure why the white paint wrinkles up but the red and blue don’t. It could be that the clear coat is going on too wet and working like paint thinner on the white. I try to make my paints and clear coat go on tacky but not wet. I use more air and less paint and spray from a little farther back so it’s got slightly more time to evaporate the thinner. I hope I typed that in an understandable way.
For my model trains, I used to love the Floquil Railroad Colors paint line for many reasons but it just went on beautifully. They cancelled that and introduced a water based paint that I despise. I ruined several HO railroad models that took me months to build, modify, detail, paint… then have to strip and scrub carefully so I didn’t break the details off, then repaint with another brand of paint that uses real thinner, not water.
When I got into racing and painting my cars, I used my model railroad experience as a lesson, choosing to try Testors and a little Testors brand thinner in my airbrush. I can mask it in a few hours but usually wait overnight, then paint a second color, etc.. until it’s time to add the decals (sealed to the decal sheet with the Krylon Crystal Clear) and once the decals are set and dry, I spray with a Testors brand clear or dull coat, depending on what I want the paint finish to look like.
Maybe it’s time for me to make some videos too. Maybe I’ll try recording the Braille Racer Twin Mill I’m planning to paint for my beagle, Brownie.
Oh, I have had these sorts of pains with paint. Especially when I was rushing to complete builds.
So I feel your pain.
I try hard to use the same brand/type of paint and have had far less issues. In saying that, my paint jobs are far less glamorous than yours!1
I can see some guys have given some helpful advice. I am not expert when it comes to painting!
Cheers mate!
Are you laying lacquer over enamel and the krypton is paint and primer I don't think you need the Tamiya just my thoughts happy new year bill🎉
PAINFUL!!!
Well, it is not a beauty or Fashion show. I'm going to do it. Thanks.
😭 Even on a phone screen I could see the defects before you zoomed in. I'd trust Stoopid Fish & Billy's Midway over anything that I would offer here.
Some puzzle piece ain't fitting that's for certain. Whether it's the temp/humidity during application or the products used in conjunction. . .I haven't seen consistently bad results from earlier processes 😢
Also bill experiment on one or two cars dont wipe out your whole fleet I always leave 3 bare cars to experiment with
Ok, my two cents here.....Its not the Tamiya Primer for starters. I use it on all my builds. Ive never used Krylon but Have tried Rustoleum and it wrinkles every time. Even if you get it laid down, it tends to wrinkle when you clear it (even with rustoleum clear!?) Personally if I have to use a Rattle can, I get Duplicolor paint and clear coat....
@@TheGargoylesDen This right here! I agree... The rattle can fleet is a wrinkle fest! So many chances for error. If I want a good finish my go to is
1. Strip the old paint
2. Wire brush the surface
3. 1 or 2 coats of Tamiya fine primer... dry over night, you can speed up the drying time with a heat gun if you are in a hurry to get to the next step...
4. place a blop or two of microsol or microset on the spot to take the decal
5. Plop the decal into the spot
6. Use a q-tip to squeegee out the air bubbles and ensure it is settled into the nooks and crannies
7. Wait until dry... over night
8. Squirt on gloss clearcoat...
now I have issues with the rattle cans being so unprodictable. 2X being the worst on the car but it works great sealing my inkjet printed decals. My go to clear is automotive 2K gloss shot through my airbrush... that just works the best. All the rattle cans WILL GIVE YOU AN ISSUE... not everytime and some not most of the time... but often enough to really get under your skin. IMHO, the nozzle dispenses too much paint and it can act as a solvent for the layer below. It is hard to get a good thin coat from a rattle can.
When I did the SOO LINE railcar and Safety Caboose for Shavano Mountain for Mark, I had to redo the Caboose a couple of times because I tried the 2X clear over 2X yellow after many days of drying and it bubbled like a madman. Nothing I tried could get that to go down straight. It was an experiment... right? lol, yep... so no more 2X rattle can top coat unless it is a dull coat for a badlands type car where wrinkles are fine. I'll save the gloss for the decals and when it is gone, I will look around for something else as it is too much work to bust out the airbrush for a small decal set.
That all in one is paint and primer. Maybe just try paint with no primer in it.
Thank you. I will try that in the future.
Is it too cold or to humid? Are you drying them under a heat light as I heard you can dry them witha fan, but not heat.
I think it is too cold. I will try again tomorrow. Thanks.
You do not need to shoot gloss white over the Tamiya primer... just put your decals on the white primer and then a thin gloss top coat... not two top coats and not heavy...
Well, Dang it. Will the primer turn glossy? I did not try that. Thank you very much.
@@sstdiecastracing2372 top coat determines final gloss level... dull, satin, glossy...
@@StoopidFishRacing WHAT? holy crap. Thanks. Hey. I'm thinking satin or semi gloss for the cameras when filming now.
Just be careful if the primer or paint aren’t glossy, the decal will likely trap air bubbles under it and once you spray the clear, the decal will show all of the bubbles and may even get an odd shine to it. I painted one of my silver HO scale locomotives and the silver wasn’t glossy enough and after I clear coated it, the clear decal area looks like a mirror. Very odd things can happen. I’ve had some better success if I use white cleaning vinegar or Solvaset under the decal when I apply it. You have to work quickly with the Solvaset or the decal will deform. Vinegar or Microscale’s Micro-Set and Micro-Sol work slower.
@ nope... the Tamiya primer is ultra fine and prevents the issues you put forward... and I would not recommend putting decals on any other primer or matte paint without first shooting a gloss coat but the tamiya primer is different... but yes, a setting solvent is the way to go with any decals... micro sol or micro set is my go to but there are other good ones. I'd throw up a quick vid on it but there are already so many great ones out there.