Let me tell you something Mr Wood Chip Man, I have no freaking idea where you come off making a video like this. No stupid music, no off topic drivel that has nothing to do with the subject, how dare you be informative, and short and to the point. I am surprised your are not in You Tube jail. This is one of the best videos I have seen! Thanks for clearing up couple misconceptions I had.
I must say, you are the most knowledgable person I've seen on RUclips when it comes to saws. I watch almost all of Wranglerstars videos especially the chainsaw ones and I learned more in this video than any of his. You deserve way more subscribers than you have! Thank you for the informative video and keep up the good work!
Honestly, I use these videos as a way of learning myself. In the navy part of my responsibility as a fire marshal was to train the duty section on damage control topics. I quickly learned that that best way to learn myself, was to teach others. Before filming you're likely to find me scouring the internet on the upcoming topic, lol.
ontarioknivesNS7 because he gives details wranglerstar just points at it for half a second and talks about it he talks about it and gives close up details
Don't ask me why, but I watch a lot of these videos looking for a jewel or two with respect to content/information that will improve an operation, be it felling trees, sharpening chains, reducing the physical stress in completing a task, etc. This is, by far, one of the best videos I've viewed in recent months. Most videos have about 5-10 percent value, the balance being a numbskull on the screen looking to enrich themselves with a bit of advertising revenue. Thank you for the video. Gave me a better understanding of the chain. Now I can go to my local small engine repair shop--who makes up my chains--and have him make some adjustments to the type of chain I'm running (currently using a full skip, full chisel. Always looking for a faster cut! Thanks again.
Very nice video. Very well explained. All tree service ground crews need to watch this. Extremely informative. Many blessings to you and yours. Be safe
No disrespect human but just wanted to let you know this is when I loved and enjoy your videos. Change is just a factor of life and I know you have to adapt but the good old Jolly human in this video is the one we need to see back in Action! Blessings your way brother!
Great job! I’ve spent the past two days trying to get sorted on chain saw chains and you did it in a few minutes! If you ever do a retake, you might add safety chains with the rolled over depth gauges. Those really confused me when I went to sharpen my Husky 455 factory chain for the first time. I was like, “WTH how do I adjust my depth with these things? Ultimate answer, “you don’t!” I only sharpened it once before it became a POS. Lesson learned. Might help others to know. Thanks again!
Fantastic explanation. As a home owner who likes to do my own work and learn about my tools and their usage, this was an excellent and simply done explanation. Thank you.
Great video, we use the 20” carbide tipped rescue chain on our ventmaster, and while it blasts through any combination of asphalt, concrete, glue, and nails, it’s less effective at cutting trees than a chain installed backwards, I don’t know why. Its better to wait for a rig with a tree saw than whip out the ventmaster, because its humiliating vs. a tree, and it has to stay in service with its assigned chain.
Thank you!! I was wondering what applications a skip tooth chain was used on. I was also trying to figure out what all the graduations were for on the multi tool. Great explanations on all you talked about.
I came for supplementary info. in regards to concrete and metal cutting blades and the fire and rescue chain is what I needed. Great video. I learned 10x more than I needed and that is awesome!
LOL, you saved me from being stupid as I was considering ordering a skip chain for my 18" Stihl. Great video, thanks for the straightforward explanations. Subbed!
Thank you Sir for your presentation ,very professional and no fat in the information. Not many people earn a subscription so I’m sure I’ll see you again . Take care and God bless
Really good! Have been looking for these explanations and this was the 4th or 5th video I pulled up. You answered all my questions first time through. Thanks.
Curious - how often do you buy a new chain and how often do you buy a new bar for your chain saw? Are you swapping out bar and chain several times a year or much less?
Videos like this are very cool and informative. I appreciate these videos a lot. Not sure if you have done one yet or not, but as a guy who’s helped as a groundsmen before one thing I’ve always wanted to learn was the knots that you guys use and for which times. That would be cool.
I was under the impression the drive link depth determines if a chain is low profile or standard profile. The low profile drive link runs shallower than standard in the chain bar. Is that right? But I see other videos that say the size of the cutter determines if the chain is low profile (shorter cutters) or standard profile (longer cutters). I've been trying to find a 3/8 LP 0.050 62 drive link 18" chain with the longer cutters and haven't found one yet.
"Putting a skip tooth chain on a 18" bar is stupid......Poulan." LOL, loved it! That's the same thing I thought the first time I tried to cut with my Poulan Predator. I switched it out to a regular chain immediately. The skip tooth's vibration was very noticable.
WOW this young man really knows his chains a very big help,Learned more on this one video than 10 of the others well done! You should be an instructor, I should know Taught tech school for many years in HVAC
Great video as usual ! Glad I found your videos on here, enjoy them all. Cool too we are in the same area, Arnold/Imperial here.Just got 2 new MS 271's, 18" and 20". Your MS 261 cm was a awesome video, thinking about trying to sell one of my 271's, brand new in case, only started once, never cut, and getting a 261.
This is why I subscribe to your channel. There is so much to learn when it comes to chainsaws. Often when I would hear terms like “full comp” “semi chisel” etc., my eyes would just glaze over. Very useful/helpful information and entertaining lol. BTW, picked up a new MS461 yesterday while they can still be ordered from Stihl. Stihl no longer shows them on their Stihl USA website. Makes me suspect that they may no longer be producing them, but are selling out the existing inventory...idk
For general all purpose cutting with my Stihl MS 660 Magnum, using a 36" inch bar, what's the better choice gauge to get the bar and chain in, 0.050 or 0.063? I'm finding the 0.063" gauge seems more readily available. Can you explain please about the different gauge thickness importance. I understand the gauge bar and gauge chain must be the same, I'm just not clear about the the range the gauge is made for. I mean is there a 0.010 gauge bar and chain created? If so, would it be only on a very small saw? I'd think the smaller gauge would be a thinner and more flexible or floppy bar? Am I correct? Thanks again
Very informative. I have a saw running a 28 inch bar with .050 gauge i wanted to get a bigger bar and chain. Do i have to stay with a .050 or can go with .063 or .058 ? without changing anything on the saw?
I got an old partner r12 chainsaw. Can you give any advice about what I should use on this? I believe it is 90cc with a 24ish inch bar🤷♂️. But the last time it was used, it hit some metal spikes or rebar grown into the tree so needless to say it's time for a new chain. Thank you
Why would there be 18" chains offered on 62 or 72 drive links with the same 3/8" gauge? Would it all come down to manufacturing differences with the machine distance from drive gear to tip of bar?
What is the difference between drive links with holes and drive links without holes? I got chains with holes and without holes in the drive links. Thanks
Not sure if you've seen Stihl's new chain sharpener + depth all-in-one sharpener. It works pretty well to sharpen so you don't lose your round and square files. It is a bit "pricey" though.
Yeah, I've one in this video lol, 10:25 . One of those kinda stihl, but not really stihl products. Actually a rebranded product from pferd, www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=229&item=1779#detail I do like it, though you're right, it is a bit pricey. Keep telling myself whenever I have to file down depth gauges that I'm going to buy more in the other sizes as well.
Good explanatory video. Had a?. A buddy of mine is planning to fabricate a mill. It will strictly be used for cutting slabs with logs up to 65inch in diameter.with a14 foot cutting length.the power source is a 10hp 3500rpm 3phase motor direct drive through an electric PTO clutch. What chain do you recommend for this application? Again thanks for the video.
Human Thanks bud for the reply. Will relate info to my friend,he was also mentioning of going with a carbide tipped one there pretty aggressive and long lasting.Im not up on the chains and what to use,but I have a machine shop with fab section where I’m building the mill for him.Its going to be very productive for slab work.Again thanks for the reply.
I'm not an expert but I run full/standard chain on my 372xt. If I get a 390 because I'm not an expert should I go on the safe side and go with a semi skip? Thanks!
I BROUGHT A FEW CHAINS AT A SALE THAT ARE IN CARDBOARD BOX . WRITTEN ON THE BOX WITH A MARKER ARE THE NUMBERS 4020/57 . I COUNTED THE LINKS AND THERE 70. ON THE LINKS ARE THE NUMBERS 3/8 AND ON THE BOTTOM OF THE LINK IS THE NUMBER 3. THE BOX HAS OILOMATIC . CAN YOU TELL ME WHICH SAW THEY CHAIN WOULD FIT .THANKS
Great video Sir. If I am using a 3/8 LP chain do I need a specific depth gauge tool to measure the depth gauge as shown in the video? Also, I am just a homeowner and I’m considering three different size chainsaws all with a 16 inch bar. One is 34cc, 36cc and 40cc. Do you have a recommendation? Thank you for your time.
You got it backwards on the skip and full comp. It takes more saw to run full vs skip in big wood. In smaller wood dosent make that big differance. But still yet if you dont file your saws to be too aggressive they still cut close to the same. Saw tuned to turn 12,000 rpms full comp in big wood turns 10,000 then jumps n hangs. Vs skip tooth where saw tuned to turn 12,000 actualy pulls at 11,500 and cuts smmoth no hanging, pulling more air and runs cooler, keeps bars and chain oiled. So skip is for saws with less power so can run bigger bars.
Thank you for this video! It was extremely helpful in understanding what the differences are in all of these chain types. Given your knowledge on this subject I''m hoping you can provide some advice on the rope chainsaws (if you have a video on these feel free to pass that along). I have need to cut off a branch (about 6" diameter) that is about 15 feet off the ground. I don't want to attempt this with a power tool which is how I came across the rope chainsaws. In looking at the various types I noticed a lot of difference in the chains that are used. One of the manufacturers appears to have a chain where every link is a cutter head whereas some of the other manufacturers are exactly as you described in your video... cutter head then two ties then another cutter head. My question is which is better? More cutter heads or less when it comes to these rope style saws? My first thought is that more cutters are better but I don't know if this might cause more jamming of the teeth in the wood vs the styles that have two ties in between. I don't know if I saw any that are cutter head with a single tie in between. Thanks for any advice you can provide!
Thanks for making the video. Can you do a cut test between a regular chain and the rescue chain? Kinda wanna know if there's any performance differences.
Just wanted to say I saw some of your early videos as I was starting to go full time with my lawn care/Landscaping and they were helpful. Now I've been trying to learn all I can about arboriculture as to introduce it too into my skill set. Damned if I didn't stumbled across you again, you mentioned"Art's", I thought no way.. looking through more vids, you too are in florissant/n. county area. Small world. Anyway,great job with your channel !! I'd like to be able to "pick your brain" on this subject matter somehow. Apologies for the rambling & keep up the great work. btw if you wind up cluttered with any Stihl freebies from reviews feel free to hollar I'll brt. lol
Yes sir, live right here in florissant. Feel free to ask any questions you have. I'd love to be able to get freebies/discounts, fact is though that the majority of the stuff I work with is either the companies I work for, or begged/borrowed from others. Channel isn't big enough yet to get demo stuff from the companies, I emailed a Husqvarna dealer about working out a mutually beneficial partnership, and never heard back =(. Hopefully in time I'll be able to get some demo stuff to play with.
Help me out brother. I have a MS171 that isn't getting it done. I need to clear trails in my girls woods for ATVs. It was logged, so there are some big trees down. Not sure what I need to buy.
Is it still possible to do a bore cut with the safety chain? If that depth gage/raker is lifting around the tip of the bar I would think that could make that difficult or almost impossible.
I accidentally had a .050 gauge chain running in my .043 gauge bar for a few days... do you think I damaged the saw or bar considerably? they seem to work fine
is there any circumstance or technique to running a loose chain, I was recently called out for spotting somebody running a chain that was hanging an inch off, from drive link to bar. i was then told that the saw had a broken tensioner and that it didn't matter. Iam genuinely curious about your thoughts on this you seem very knowledgeable, thank you.
Soooooo... I have a question Human. Are low kickback chains not suitable for plunge cuts since the humps only stick out as the chain rolls over the nose of the bar?
great channel. i still cut some trees but not as much as i used to as i am 50 years olds and some back and knee issues. now i run my saw shop and sell Stihl chainsaws and a few Huskys. i have 77 Stihl saws for sale rite now from them smallest to the largest all are used and i also have 6 Huskys for sale. I love working on saws and running them and i also do a lot of porting work for tree sevice and loggers. fun to watch your videos you do a great job
Thanks much =) I also enjoy working on them, filmed a couple of repairs I did, just don't really have the time to do those videos in addition to the other ones I do. Running a saw shop sounds like a pretty awesome gig when you've reached the point of not being able to climb on a daily basis anymore. Don't think it'd be too feasible in urban St. Louis though, not a high demand for anything other than little homeowner saws. Thanks for all the comments
Human, I got the MS261C-M 18” bar. The chain it came with is a 74 drive link. I’ve been looking to get another chain, looking at the Yellow chains, Yet I noticed most of them are 68 drive links. All state they fit an 18” bar. Do I need to stick with the 74DL or will the 68 fit ? ( I’m new to this! ) Much Thanks!
Yes, you must stick with a 74 DL chain. The 68 DL will only fit 18" bars on smaller models. Some of the saws have different distances from the drive sprocket to the chain adjuster, biggest thing to look at is the drive link count (and pitch/gauge of course). So just make sure and grab a .325, .063, 74dl and you'll be good. If they don't have it (no reason they shouldn't) ask them to make one from a spool, if they don't have a spool, find another dealer.
You should do a video on that new Roller chain guide through Husqvarna. Like how to use it and if there's more than one size. I got one, but I'm still a green horn.
What are your thoughts on running 3/8 picco with a regular 3/8 setup? A lot of people on the forums say to switch the bar/drive sprocket, and my local shop says it will run the same as standard 3/8 chain.
Okay, I want to ask this. a bit off topic but I haven't found anyone who addresses this question. So I am thinking about buying two saws. one small and one larger and more powerful. So regardless of manufacturer or brand - what two bar lengths make a good combination? In a farm & ranch situation. I am on 16 acres in middle Tennessee, partly wooded with verious trees. Cedar, White Oak, Red Oak, Ash, Box Elder, Osage Orange
Honestly, if you think you'd want a 20" on your large saw, then there's no reason to go with another smaller saw. Just grab a 261 (or equivalent) with a 20" bar, and that is the one saw you'll need. The weight difference in saws between something with a 14" bar, and a 20" bar, isn't significant enough in my opinion to justify having two separate saws. Going into a 25"+ size bar is different, but I think you'll do just fine with one saw.
Human Thanks. well a 261 Sthil was one I was thinking I would get when I was tossing between Sthil & Husquvarna. But somewhat dhifted after a local dealer showed me cs-590. at which time I thought no way to Echo, but after watching tons is videos and foarms on Echo I became much more impressed. The CS- 590 is $399 and has professional qualities from what I hear so far... With that price plus a 5 year warranty on the Echo - would you still suggest the MS-261? Thank again
Calibir1 I have never ran an echo don't know much about them. but I have the 261 with an 18 inch bar love it really light I cut elm and oak with it and chews really well chain is kept sharp as any saw. then my big saw is a 461 stihl I bought it with a 25 inch bar I'm going to a 32 inch bar at some point that way I don't have to bend over as far I know not supposed to use the tip (someone will say) of the saw but when a tree is on the grounds you can't tell me you dont. anyways I'm not a professional but I have been running stihl saws a long time and I like doing stuff the right way. I sell firewood and burn wood 7
my 261 though came with .325 chain and I wanted 3/8 so I didn't need to try and keep track of files so they put a sprocket and bc on so I could have the 3/8 chain.
I have three. 14" small Husquavarna,20" Poulan 3400, and a Husky 394 XP with a 32' bar that is my go to saw. I'm 57 and I bought that Poulan new in 86 and have wore out 5 or 6 bars and countless chains but i just can't take working bent over all the time( too many years a a farrier) and the 32" bar makes it so I don't have to. I'm 6'1" and can cut downed wood with very little stooping, does it way more yep but I let the saw do the work so I'm not manhandling it all the time. If I had to start out again I think I would buy a 395XP and a 16" pro model, stay away from home owner saws. Nothing but agravation.
Let me tell you something Mr Wood Chip Man, I have no freaking idea where you come off making a video like this. No stupid music, no off topic drivel that has nothing to do with the subject, how dare you be informative, and short and to the point. I am surprised your are not in You Tube jail. This is one of the best videos I have seen! Thanks for clearing up couple misconceptions I had.
I have plenty of stupid music and off topic rants in other videos lol =)
I know right, the least you could do is have a dog wander into the scene and spend a few minutes talking to it.
I know it's kind of randomly asking but do anyone know a good site to stream newly released tv shows online?
@Joseph Zayd try Flixzone. Just search on google for it :)
@Cain Connor yup, been watching on FlixZone for since march myself :D
I must say, you are the most knowledgable person I've seen on RUclips when it comes to saws. I watch almost all of Wranglerstars videos especially the chainsaw ones and I learned more in this video than any of his. You deserve way more subscribers than you have! Thank you for the informative video and keep up the good work!
Honestly, I use these videos as a way of learning myself. In the navy part of my responsibility as a fire marshal was to train the duty section on damage control topics. I quickly learned that that best way to learn myself, was to teach others. Before filming you're likely to find me scouring the internet on the upcoming topic, lol.
Human were you a DC
HT on a tin can, in port fire marshall
ontarioknivesNS7 because he gives details wranglerstar just points at it for half a second and talks about it he talks about it and gives close up details
Much respect for your passion, style, and overcoming difficulties. Keep em coming!
Loved the explanation on the anti-kickback mechanism. I've always wondered how that functioned.
Don't ask me why, but I watch a lot of these videos looking for a jewel or two with respect to content/information that will improve an operation, be it felling trees, sharpening chains, reducing the physical stress in completing a task, etc. This is, by far, one of the best videos I've viewed in recent months. Most videos have about 5-10 percent value, the balance being a numbskull on the screen looking to enrich themselves with a bit of advertising revenue.
Thank you for the video. Gave me a better understanding of the chain. Now I can go to my local small engine repair shop--who makes up my chains--and have him make some adjustments to the type of chain I'm running (currently using a full skip, full chisel. Always looking for a faster cut! Thanks again.
Very informative, very much to the point, very distinct narration, very good close ups. Five stars!
This guy has a PhD in chainsaw chains... the best, most comprehensive look at chain anatomy on the web... Thank you Human
Best 12 minutes of my life ever spent. Thank you for adding value to other peoples lives.
Possibly the most informative channel on RUclips for chainsaw knowledge.
Thank you Human, I've been useing chainsaws for years, you have just thought me more about chains in 10 mins than I knew for how my whole life, 😊
Very nice video. Very well explained. All tree service ground crews need to watch this. Extremely informative. Many blessings to you and yours. Be safe
No disrespect human but just wanted to let you know this is when I loved and enjoy your videos. Change is just a factor of life and I know you have to adapt but the good old Jolly human in this video is the one we need to see back in Action! Blessings your way brother!
Been using all these for years. And I just learnt a lot. Filled in some of my many grey areas in the ol cranium. Cheers mate.
Really appreciate the no-bs video. My goodness, I wish there were more like this!
Great job! I’ve spent the past two days trying to get sorted on chain saw chains and you did it in a few minutes! If you ever do a retake, you might add safety chains with the rolled over depth gauges. Those really confused me when I went to sharpen my Husky 455 factory chain for the first time. I was like, “WTH how do I adjust my depth with these things? Ultimate answer, “you don’t!” I only sharpened it once before it became a POS. Lesson learned. Might help others to know. Thanks again!
Fantastic explanation. As a home owner who likes to do my own work and learn about my tools and their usage, this was an excellent and simply done explanation. Thank you.
I miss these vids
You mean the good informative ones before he lost his shit?
@@robertatkins272 yes
This is an old video but I just learned more than I've ever known about chains, thank you
Your the most articulate and knowledgeable person I’ve seen . Thanks for this video and giving clear information.
Great video, we use the 20” carbide tipped rescue chain on our ventmaster, and while it blasts through any combination of asphalt, concrete, glue, and nails, it’s less effective at cutting trees than a chain installed backwards, I don’t know why. Its better to wait for a rig with a tree saw than whip out the ventmaster, because its humiliating vs. a tree, and it has to stay in service with its assigned chain.
Great video. The most comprehensive and easy to understand video about the different chainsaw chains that I have come across. Thanks a lot.
A professional video by a guy who knows his stuff.
My ears were tickled with joy when you said depth gauge and not raker....Thank you
Canadian Tree I know I was confused because I call it the raker
Canadian Tree, some call it the drag, and there are probably many other names.
I guess it's whatever you are taught in your part of the country. Do you like corn dogs or pronto pups? lake or reservoir?
I hate when people call it a depth gauge, a gauge is for measuring, it doesn't measure anything
those are rakers
Thank you!! I was wondering what applications a skip tooth chain was used on. I was also trying to figure out what all the graduations were for on the multi tool. Great explanations on all you talked about.
Brilliant thanks. Clear, knowledgable and well demonstrated (unlike all the other videos/guides I looked at).
I came for supplementary info. in regards to concrete and metal cutting blades and the fire and rescue chain is what I needed. Great video. I learned 10x more than I needed and that is awesome!
LOL, you saved me from being stupid as I was considering ordering a skip chain for my 18" Stihl. Great video, thanks for the straightforward explanations. Subbed!
Thank you Sir for your presentation ,very professional and no fat in the information.
Not many people earn a subscription so I’m sure I’ll see you again .
Take care and God bless
One of the better videos out there. Straight to the point. Thank you for sharing!
nice complete presentation. Now I know where a skip chain gets used and that I don't need one for a short bar. Thanks. well done
Really good! Have been looking for these explanations and this was the 4th or 5th video I pulled up. You answered all my questions first time through. Thanks.
You’re a star now buddy, like I said the best is yet to come! Just Simply done and laid out a lot of missing info for people.
👍👍👍😎🇨🇱
Curious - how often do you buy a new chain and how often do you buy a new bar for your chain saw? Are you swapping out bar and chain several times a year or much less?
By far the Best explanation for this i have found, great job mate
Thank you for this video I've been a bit lost on chain knowledge cleared up 99% in 12 minutes keep it up.
Videos like this are very cool and informative. I appreciate these videos a lot. Not sure if you have done one yet or not, but as a guy who’s helped as a groundsmen before one thing I’ve always wanted to learn was the knots that you guys use and for which times. That would be cool.
Thank you, this exactly the kind of information I was seeking. I definitely know more about chainsaw chains than I did yesterday.
I was under the impression the drive link depth determines if a chain is low profile or standard profile. The low profile drive link runs shallower than standard in the chain bar. Is that right? But I see other videos that say the size of the cutter determines if the chain is low profile (shorter cutters) or standard profile (longer cutters). I've been trying to find a 3/8 LP 0.050 62 drive link 18" chain with the longer cutters and haven't found one yet.
"Putting a skip tooth chain on a 18" bar is stupid......Poulan." LOL, loved it! That's the same thing I thought the first time I tried to cut with my Poulan Predator. I switched it out to a regular chain immediately. The skip tooth's vibration was very noticable.
WOW this young man really knows his chains a very big help,Learned more on this one video than 10 of the others well done! You should be an instructor, I should know Taught tech school for many years in HVAC
Great video as usual ! Glad I found your videos on here, enjoy them all. Cool too we are in the same area, Arnold/Imperial here.Just got 2 new MS 271's, 18" and 20". Your MS 261 cm was a awesome video, thinking about trying to sell one of my 271's, brand new in case, only started once, never cut, and getting a 261.
Thank you sir! That was and will be useful for me as I begin my experience with Sthil MS 391. Thanks ones again! God bless!
This is why I subscribe to your channel. There is so much to learn when it comes to chainsaws. Often when I would hear terms like “full comp” “semi chisel” etc., my eyes would just glaze over. Very useful/helpful information and entertaining lol. BTW, picked up a new MS461 yesterday while they can still be ordered from Stihl. Stihl no longer shows them on their Stihl USA website. Makes me suspect that they may no longer be producing them, but are selling out the existing inventory...idk
Definitely the best chain explanation of all the videos Ive watched....Thx
For general all purpose cutting with my Stihl MS 660 Magnum, using a 36" inch bar, what's the better choice gauge to get the bar and chain in, 0.050 or 0.063? I'm finding the 0.063" gauge seems more readily available. Can you explain please about the different gauge thickness importance. I understand the gauge bar and gauge chain must be the same, I'm just not clear about the the range the gauge is made for. I mean is there a 0.010 gauge bar and chain created? If so, would it be only on a very small saw? I'd think the smaller gauge would be a thinner and more flexible or floppy bar? Am I correct? Thanks again
Really appreciate your tutorial.
Thank you.
Learned a lot in a short ammount of time. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!!
Very informative. I have a saw running a 28 inch bar with .050 gauge i wanted to get a bigger bar and chain. Do i have to stay with a .050 or can go with .063 or .058 ? without changing anything on the saw?
As long as you don't change chain pitch. You will be ok on your length and gage combo.
hi, dont suppose you have a part number for that nifty Oregon chain identifier @ 9.44mins, great video very informative and clearly explained. thanks
www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=229&item=5866
Thanks massive. Got a few saws now. Ms180 on a thin pico chain. 021. 024av West Germany. Just had a 261. A little efco top handle and an 020T.
The depth gauges are also responsible for crooked cuts if they are filed down too much in certain areas.
man, I just tap my a quickly with my angle grinder.. I am sure they are uneven as all getup
Crooked cut comes from cutters being filed differently left to right. Depth gauges being filed differently causes chatter and grabby chain
Very well done. You answered all of the questions I had lingering about. Thank you!
I got an old partner r12 chainsaw. Can you give any advice about what I should use on this? I believe it is 90cc with a 24ish inch bar🤷♂️. But the last time it was used, it hit some metal spikes or rebar grown into the tree so needless to say it's time for a new chain. Thank you
Excellent , excellent video, thank you. I also picked up the the Poulan remark lol...
Great video. You really covered all the aspects of chainsaw chains. Very helpful.
Best video I have found on RUclips about chain saw chains. Thanks Forest
Does anyone know if there is such a thing as a semi skip, semi chisel chain?
Why would there be 18" chains offered on 62 or 72 drive links with the same 3/8" gauge? Would it all come down to manufacturing differences with the machine distance from drive gear to tip of bar?
You did a good explanation on the difference types of chains. Have you considered doing a video on the prober why to break in a new chainsaw?
Will do, now I have an excuse to buy a new saw =)
What is the difference between drive links with holes and drive links without holes? I got chains with holes and without holes in the drive links. Thanks
Not sure if you've seen Stihl's new chain sharpener + depth all-in-one sharpener. It works pretty well to sharpen so you don't lose your round and square files. It is a bit "pricey" though.
Yeah, I've one in this video lol, 10:25 . One of those kinda stihl, but not really stihl products. Actually a rebranded product from pferd, www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=229&item=1779#detail
I do like it, though you're right, it is a bit pricey. Keep telling myself whenever I have to file down depth gauges that I'm going to buy more in the other sizes as well.
Could you do a video on how you break in a new saw? Great chain info. by the way.
Excellent video. As a novice have learned a great deal. Brilliant.
Good video man,greetings from a fellow arborist in British Columbia 😎
This was great to help me understand chain types and applications in plain English. Thx!
Do have to worry about the drive links behind the clutch to match the chain and bar?
yes
I was hesitant on the carbide chain, but I will never use anything else again. Well worth the money!
Brandon Settgast, my favorite for most situations here in Florida with sugar sand in all parts of the tree.
Great video, very thorough. Thank you.
The company that makes that new sharpener set-up for Stihl is called, "Pferd".
10:56 will this depth gauge work with low profile chain 3/8 pitch
Excellent - Great video - I learnt a lot.
Many thanks.....all the way from London !
Thank you for taking the time to do this video.
Good explanatory video. Had a?. A buddy of mine is planning to fabricate a mill. It will strictly be used for cutting slabs with logs up to 65inch in diameter.with a14 foot cutting length.the power source is a 10hp 3500rpm 3phase motor direct drive through an electric PTO clutch. What chain do you recommend for this application? Again thanks for the video.
Ripping chain, made just for that type of application. Also the one chain (that I know of) that I forgot to talk about in the video, lol.
Human Thanks bud for the reply. Will relate info to my friend,he was also mentioning of going with a carbide tipped one there pretty aggressive and long lasting.Im not up on the chains and what to use,but I have a machine shop with fab section where I’m building the mill for him.Its going to be very productive for slab work.Again thanks for the reply.
I'm not an expert but I run full/standard chain on my 372xt. If I get a 390 because I'm not an expert should I go on the safe side and go with a semi skip? Thanks!
I BROUGHT A FEW CHAINS AT A SALE THAT ARE IN CARDBOARD BOX . WRITTEN ON THE BOX WITH A MARKER ARE THE NUMBERS 4020/57 . I COUNTED THE LINKS AND THERE 70. ON THE LINKS ARE THE NUMBERS 3/8 AND ON THE BOTTOM OF THE LINK IS THE NUMBER 3. THE BOX HAS OILOMATIC . CAN YOU TELL ME WHICH SAW THEY CHAIN WOULD FIT .THANKS
Great video Sir. If I am using a 3/8 LP chain do I need a specific depth gauge tool to measure the depth gauge as shown in the video? Also, I am just a homeowner and I’m considering three different size chainsaws all with a 16 inch bar. One is 34cc, 36cc and 40cc. Do you have a recommendation? Thank you for your time.
You got it backwards on the skip and full comp. It takes more saw to run full vs skip in big wood. In smaller wood dosent make that big differance. But still yet if you dont file your saws to be too aggressive they still cut close to the same. Saw tuned to turn 12,000 rpms full comp in big wood turns 10,000 then jumps n hangs. Vs skip tooth where saw tuned to turn 12,000 actualy pulls at 11,500 and cuts smmoth no hanging, pulling more air and runs cooler, keeps bars and chain oiled. So skip is for saws with less power so can run bigger bars.
Great video that covers a lot about chains.
Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge.
Good on ya!
Thank you for this video! It was extremely helpful in understanding what the differences are in all of these chain types. Given your knowledge on this subject I''m hoping you can provide some advice on the rope chainsaws (if you have a video on these feel free to pass that along). I have need to cut off a branch (about 6" diameter) that is about 15 feet off the ground. I don't want to attempt this with a power tool which is how I came across the rope chainsaws. In looking at the various types I noticed a lot of difference in the chains that are used. One of the manufacturers appears to have a chain where every link is a cutter head whereas some of the other manufacturers are exactly as you described in your video... cutter head then two ties then another cutter head. My question is which is better? More cutter heads or less when it comes to these rope style saws? My first thought is that more cutters are better but I don't know if this might cause more jamming of the teeth in the wood vs the styles that have two ties in between. I don't know if I saw any that are cutter head with a single tie in between. Thanks for any advice you can provide!
Thank You for sharing your knowledge in such a straight way - great!
Philadelphia checking in. Sick beard!! The video popped up so I'm just commenting to get it thrown through the algorithm again 😂😂👍 LAMB OF GOD!!! 🤘🤘🤘
I HAVE a question what is the difference if there is a rip chain and cross cut?
what type of chain i need for cutting along the grain and in grain?
I am thinking about getting a lightweight bar would like your opinion on a good choice between
Stihl Oregon
So glad you found your way back to making great content Human. Have re-subscribed. : )
Thanks for making the video. Can you do a cut test between a regular chain and the rescue chain? Kinda wanna know if there's any performance differences.
I had to take it back. Arts let me borrow it just for this video, those chains run something along the lines of $210, >.
Just wanted to say I saw some of your early videos as I was starting to go full time with my lawn care/Landscaping and they were helpful. Now I've been trying to learn all I can about arboriculture as to introduce it too into my skill set. Damned if I didn't stumbled across you again, you mentioned"Art's", I thought no way.. looking through more vids, you too are in florissant/n. county area. Small world. Anyway,great job with your channel !!
I'd like to be able to "pick your brain" on this subject matter somehow. Apologies for the rambling & keep up the great work. btw if you wind up cluttered with any Stihl freebies from reviews feel free to hollar I'll brt. lol
Yes sir, live right here in florissant. Feel free to ask any questions you have. I'd love to be able to get freebies/discounts, fact is though that the majority of the stuff I work with is either the companies I work for, or begged/borrowed from others. Channel isn't big enough yet to get demo stuff from the companies, I emailed a Husqvarna dealer about working out a mutually beneficial partnership, and never heard back =(. Hopefully in time I'll be able to get some demo stuff to play with.
Help me out brother. I have a MS171 that isn't getting it done. I need to clear trails in my girls woods for ATVs. It was logged, so there are some big trees down. Not sure what I need to buy.
Is it still possible to do a bore cut with the safety chain? If that depth gage/raker is lifting around the tip of the bar I would think that could make that difficult or almost impossible.
What I thought at first as well, but it makes no difference, saftey chain bores just as well as non.
Very concise never learned so much in twelve minutes thanks
Very good presentation you stayed true to tree service not wood workers requiring a specific chain or specific saw.
I accidentally had a .050 gauge chain running in my .043 gauge bar for a few days... do you think I damaged the saw or bar considerably? they seem to work fine
If it cuts fine, I wouldn't worry about it.
Human thank you Human!
is there any circumstance or technique to running a loose chain, I was recently called out for spotting somebody running a chain that was hanging an inch off, from drive link to bar. i was then told that the saw had a broken tensioner and that it didn't matter. Iam genuinely curious about your thoughts on this you seem very knowledgeable, thank you.
That guy was an idiot running broken equipment. Chains must stay tight.
Dude Diamond tipped bits are pretty reasonably priced too. What brand of chain is that carbide chain you have?
Soooooo... I have a question Human. Are low kickback chains not suitable for plunge cuts since the humps only stick out as the chain rolls over the nose of the bar?
"Poulan!"
That got me rollin'. I saw the illustration and said, "hey that skip tooth is what's on my "Wild Thing," 40cc.
great channel. i still cut some trees but not as much as i used to as i am 50 years olds and some back and knee issues. now i run my saw shop and sell Stihl chainsaws and a few Huskys. i have 77 Stihl saws for sale rite now from them smallest to the largest all are used and i also have 6 Huskys for sale. I love working on saws and running them and i also do a lot of porting work for tree sevice and loggers. fun to watch your videos you do a great job
Thanks much =) I also enjoy working on them, filmed a couple of repairs I did, just don't really have the time to do those videos in addition to the other ones I do. Running a saw shop sounds like a pretty awesome gig when you've reached the point of not being able to climb on a daily basis anymore. Don't think it'd be too feasible in urban St. Louis though, not a high demand for anything other than little homeowner saws. Thanks for all the comments
Human,
I got the MS261C-M 18” bar. The chain it came with is a 74 drive link. I’ve been looking to get another chain, looking at the Yellow chains, Yet I noticed most of them are 68 drive links. All state they fit an 18” bar.
Do I need to stick with the 74DL or will the 68 fit ?
( I’m new to this! )
Much Thanks!
Yes, you must stick with a 74 DL chain. The 68 DL will only fit 18" bars on smaller models. Some of the saws have different distances from the drive sprocket to the chain adjuster, biggest thing to look at is the drive link count (and pitch/gauge of course). So just make sure and grab a .325, .063, 74dl and you'll be good. If they don't have it (no reason they shouldn't) ask them to make one from a spool, if they don't have a spool, find another dealer.
Human,
Much Thanks.
You should do a video on that new Roller chain guide through Husqvarna. Like how to use it and if there's more than one size. I got one, but I'm still a green horn.
What are your thoughts on running 3/8 picco with a regular 3/8 setup? A lot of people on the forums say to switch the bar/drive sprocket, and my local shop says it will run the same as standard 3/8 chain.
What is the purpose and difference in the depth gauge straight or hooked ?
Not sure on that one
Okay, I want to ask this. a bit off topic but I haven't found anyone who addresses this question.
So I am thinking about buying two saws. one small and one larger and more powerful. So regardless of manufacturer or brand - what two bar lengths make a good combination? In a farm & ranch situation. I am on 16 acres in middle Tennessee, partly wooded with verious trees. Cedar, White Oak, Red Oak, Ash, Box Elder, Osage Orange
Honestly, if you think you'd want a 20" on your large saw, then there's no reason to go with another smaller saw. Just grab a 261 (or equivalent) with a 20" bar, and that is the one saw you'll need. The weight difference in saws between something with a 14" bar, and a 20" bar, isn't significant enough in my opinion to justify having two separate saws. Going into a 25"+ size bar is different, but I think you'll do just fine with one saw.
Human Thanks.
well a 261 Sthil was one I was thinking I would get when I was tossing between Sthil & Husquvarna. But somewhat dhifted after a local dealer showed me cs-590. at which time I thought no way to Echo, but after watching tons is videos and foarms on Echo I became much more impressed. The CS- 590 is $399 and has professional qualities from what I hear so far... With that price plus a 5 year warranty on the Echo - would you still suggest the MS-261?
Thank again
Calibir1 I have never ran an echo don't know much about them. but I have the 261 with an 18 inch bar love it really light I cut elm and oak with it and chews really well chain is kept sharp as any saw. then my big saw is a 461 stihl I bought it with a 25 inch bar I'm going to a 32 inch bar at some point that way I don't have to bend over as far I know not supposed to use the tip (someone will say) of the saw but when a tree is on the grounds you can't tell me you dont. anyways I'm not a professional but I have been running stihl saws a long time and I like doing stuff the right way. I sell firewood and burn wood 7
my 261 though came with .325 chain and I wanted 3/8 so I didn't need to try and keep track of files so they put a sprocket and bc on so I could have the 3/8 chain.
I have three. 14" small Husquavarna,20" Poulan 3400, and a Husky 394 XP with a 32' bar that is my go to saw. I'm 57 and I bought that Poulan new in 86 and have wore out 5 or 6 bars and countless chains but i just can't take working bent over all the time( too many years a a farrier) and the 32" bar makes it so I don't have to. I'm 6'1" and can cut downed wood with very little stooping, does it way more yep but I let the saw do the work so I'm not manhandling it all the time. If I had to start out again I think I would buy a 395XP and a 16" pro model, stay away from home owner saws. Nothing but agravation.