Dear Mr. Nubbs, Based on your recommendation I bought the MPOWER MK2. For more years than I want to count, I’ve sharpened my chisels using a series of whetstones. Normally, I devoted the better part of morning to sharpen my 6 chisels. I still use my whetstones to do the backs of my chisels, but now I’m a fan of the MPOWER MK2! It’s very speedy-changing the “stones” couldn’t be any faster due to the magnetic system. I now can sharpen all my chisels in less than 1 hour.. And they pass the “wispy curl test” with flying colors. THANK YOU!
This was originally produced by Trend in the UK. I've been using one for about fifteen years and it does an excellent, repeatable, job - other than a Tormek and jigs, it's the best thing I ever found...
+duncan amos Hi Duncan, thank you very much for kind comments on the quality of the FASTTRACK/PSS1 sharpening system, it really is great to hear! With regards to the 'original production', we manufacture the FASTTRACK for TREND which they exclusively sell under their brand name in the UK.
I've personally never preferred a micro-bevel, and this system looks simple and great. Time to pull out the pocket book! I always say, save 1 second 1000 times and you have 16 minutes you can spend doing something more important. This thing could save a lot more than a second, so it's a win in my book.
hi like the look of this ! but surely it will wear the diamond out in one place ! as it will only rub in one spot on the stone, two at most if you turn the stone around ! if you get what iam talking about lol
Thanks man, for putting in the time and effort for this video! some thoughts on the product: i would think moving the stone perpendicular to the chisel isn't ideal, and that you'd get a better edge if you move the stone into the cutting edge, or use circular motions... any thoughts on that by an expert? and also i would expect the stones to wear out quickly on the spot where the cutting edge hits it, because it's always on the exact same spot..
I am torn between the latest verions of this thing and the WS3000. What I want is speed and accuracy. I can get my chisel sharp with a honing guide and sandpaper but it takes forever - mostly because the bevels are all screwed up on my chisels. The M-Power system is appealing because its small, simple, and $100 cheaper than the WS3000. The WS3000 is appealing because it looks like it would be really fast. What should I get?
The instructions say mount to an 8x10x0.75" board that is an L with a 2x2x8" board. The small board is put in the shoulder vise. But stupy puts the Mpower device directly in the shoulder vise.
So this being the only video about this system I find trustworthy, I have a question about this, or maybe about sharpening in general. The new version of this system features 25°, 27,5°, 30° and 32,5° angles. Now couldn't you put a 25° primary bevel on your chisel or plane blade, then a 27,5° secondary bevel and then, instead of grinding it back to 25° when you would need to, just put a 30° secondary (or tertiary) bevel on until that goes too far back and then even go for a 32,5° bevel before you grind it all back to 25°? Wouldn't that save a lot of time grinding?
Yes, you could do that. But some may find a 27.5 degree angle a little weak for hard woods (dulls quicker). And some may find a 32.5 degree angle a little steep for soft woods (cuts harder).
@@StumpyNubs Thanks a lot! I was wondering, why no one was suggesting this obvious shortcut.Maybe I'll make my old ones dedicated soft wood chisels and save a bit on their upkeep.
+Allan Perret - I use Trend diamond lapping fluid. It's a very light oil based lubricant. They say you can use water, but I don't like to introduce the chance for rust into a flat plate. I wrote an article about it once: www.stumpynubs.com/blogws13.html
+Stumpy Nubs (James Hamilton) Kerosene is a excellent lubricant for sharpening. Learned that from Bob Elliot, boatmaker at Lowell's Boat shop in Gloucester, Mass. (the oldest continuous boatmaking business in the USA).
+William Brown - Any light oil will work, but (according to diamond abrasive manufacturers) when you get down to very fine diamond stones the film of oil may actually be THICKER than the diamond points are sticking up out of the substrate. 1000 grit stones have an abrasive film that is only about 5 microns thick. (15 micron diamonds, embedded 2/3 of the way into the plate like little icebergs) Kerosene film (I believe) is about 6 microns thick. So your blade will actually ride on the kerosene film ABOVE much of the abrasive. WD-40 is also popular, but it's film is 17 microns thick! So, while it is certainly possible to sharpen with kerosene, diamond abrasive manufacturers argue that it actually inhibits the effectiveness of their stones.
Thanks - good info James. Mr. Elliot was sharpening on a hand cranked grinding wheel he found in an old barn in Maine! I doubt it was much over 1000 grit.
+harley75us -Any light oil will work, but (according to diamond abrasive manufacturers) when you get down to very fine diamond stones the film of oil may actually be THICKER than the diamond points are sticking up out of the substrate. 1000 grit stones have an abrasive film that is only about 5 microns thick. (15 micron diamonds, embedded 2/3 of the way into the plate like little icebergs) Kerosene film (I believe) is about 6 microns thick. So your blade will actually ride on the kerosene film ABOVE much of the abrasive. WD-40 is also popular, but it's film is 17 microns thick, 3in1 oil is thicker! So, while it is certainly possible to sharpen with oil, diamond abrasive manufacturers argue that it actually inhibits the effectiveness of their stones.
Had this system for a few years and stop using it almost as long; yet another gismo in the seemingly endless arrays of tool sharpening gagets so I had to give it a try, not impressed, the 5 different micro diamond cutters clog eaisly are time consuming to keep swapping out and differentiating, and if your chisel or plane blade is a little over or under 90 degrees you'll be there forever. Found the Worksharp 3000 system the best all around.
Dear Mr. Nubbs,
Based on your recommendation I bought the MPOWER MK2. For more years than I want to count, I’ve sharpened my chisels using a series of whetstones. Normally, I devoted the better part of morning to sharpen my 6 chisels.
I still use my whetstones to do the backs of my chisels, but now I’m a fan of the MPOWER MK2! It’s very speedy-changing the “stones” couldn’t be any faster due to the magnetic system.
I now can sharpen all my chisels in less than 1 hour.. And they pass the “wispy curl test” with flying colors.
THANK YOU!
This was originally produced by Trend in the UK. I've been using one for about fifteen years and it does an excellent, repeatable, job - other than a Tormek and jigs, it's the best thing I ever found...
+duncan amos Hi Duncan, thank you very much for kind comments on the quality of the FASTTRACK/PSS1 sharpening system, it really is great to hear! With regards to the 'original production', we manufacture the FASTTRACK for TREND which they exclusively sell under their brand name in the UK.
I've personally never preferred a micro-bevel, and this system looks simple and great. Time to pull out the pocket book! I always say, save 1 second 1000 times and you have 16 minutes you can spend doing something more important. This thing could save a lot more than a second, so it's a win in my book.
hi like the look of this ! but surely it will wear the diamond out in one place ! as it will only rub in one spot on the stone, two at most if you turn the stone around ! if you get what iam talking about lol
Thanks man, for putting in the time and effort for this video!
some thoughts on the product:
i would think moving the stone perpendicular to the chisel isn't ideal, and that you'd get a better edge if you move the stone into the cutting edge, or use circular motions... any thoughts on that by an expert?
and also i would expect the stones to wear out quickly on the spot where the cutting edge hits it, because it's always on the exact same spot..
I am torn between the latest verions of this thing and the WS3000. What I want is speed and accuracy. I can get my chisel sharp with a honing guide and sandpaper but it takes forever - mostly because the bevels are all screwed up on my chisels. The M-Power system is appealing because its small, simple, and $100 cheaper than the WS3000. The WS3000 is appealing because it looks like it would be really fast. What should I get?
I love mine... I reviewed the same one. Superb review Stumpy!
The instructions say mount to an 8x10x0.75" board that is an L with a 2x2x8" board. The small board is put in the shoulder vise. But stupy puts the Mpower device directly in the shoulder vise.
James, it's been a couple of years. Do you still like/use it?
So this being the only video about this system I find trustworthy, I have a question about this, or maybe about sharpening in general. The new version of this system features 25°, 27,5°, 30° and 32,5° angles. Now couldn't you put a 25° primary bevel on your chisel or plane blade, then a 27,5° secondary bevel and then, instead of grinding it back to 25° when you would need to, just put a 30° secondary (or tertiary) bevel on until that goes too far back and then even go for a 32,5° bevel before you grind it all back to 25°? Wouldn't that save a lot of time grinding?
Yes, you could do that. But some may find a 27.5 degree angle a little weak for hard woods (dulls quicker). And some may find a 32.5 degree angle a little steep for soft woods (cuts harder).
@@StumpyNubs Thanks a lot! I was wondering, why no one was suggesting this obvious shortcut.Maybe I'll make my old ones dedicated soft wood chisels and save a bit on their upkeep.
Something even a cave (wo)man can do! Looks very promising, Stumpy.Thanks for sharing.
Would like to have one for the students to use in my carpentry class. But I'm torn on whether they will never learn the traditional method properly.
Looks really interesting
Very easy and repeatable but what I don't like about these is the scratch lines run parallel to the edge which will leave a weak edge.
+caskwith - There are no scratch lines to speak of once you use the 1000 grit plate. It does not leave a weak edge.
Good info
trend have been selling these in the uk for years
What is the liquid you are using, something special or just oil ?
+Allan Perret - I use Trend diamond lapping fluid. It's a very light oil based lubricant. They say you can use water, but I don't like to introduce the chance for rust into a flat plate. I wrote an article about it once: www.stumpynubs.com/blogws13.html
+Stumpy Nubs (James Hamilton)
Kerosene is a excellent lubricant for sharpening. Learned that from Bob Elliot, boatmaker at Lowell's Boat shop in Gloucester, Mass. (the oldest continuous boatmaking business in the USA).
+William Brown - Any light oil will work, but (according to diamond abrasive manufacturers) when you get down to very fine diamond stones the film of oil may actually be THICKER than the diamond points are sticking up out of the substrate. 1000 grit stones have an abrasive film that is only about 5 microns thick. (15 micron diamonds, embedded 2/3 of the way into the plate like little icebergs) Kerosene film (I believe) is about 6 microns thick. So your blade will actually ride on the kerosene film ABOVE much of the abrasive. WD-40 is also popular, but it's film is 17 microns thick! So, while it is certainly possible to sharpen with kerosene, diamond abrasive manufacturers argue that it actually inhibits the effectiveness of their stones.
Thanks - good info James. Mr. Elliot was sharpening on a hand cranked grinding wheel he found in an old barn in Maine! I doubt it was much over 1000 grit.
@@StumpyNubs can you link us up to your data sourse on micron thickness of these materials in layer form thickness.
How 3 in 1 oil stack up against your trend fluid?
+harley75us -Any light oil will work, but (according to diamond abrasive manufacturers) when you get down to very fine diamond stones the film of oil may actually be THICKER than the diamond points are sticking up out of the substrate. 1000 grit stones have an abrasive film that is only about 5 microns thick. (15 micron diamonds, embedded 2/3 of the way into the plate like little icebergs) Kerosene film (I believe) is about 6 microns thick. So your blade will actually ride on the kerosene film ABOVE much of the abrasive. WD-40 is also popular, but it's film is 17 microns thick, 3in1 oil is thicker! So, while it is certainly possible to sharpen with oil, diamond abrasive manufacturers argue that it actually inhibits the effectiveness of their stones.
Freehand is probably better as ONE word. As opposed to "this free thing will sharpen hand tools" which is what the title sounds like.
+Warp you picked the right name dude.
Need a long version to sharpen 13-in thickness planes blades.......
Buy 2 or 3 bases and mount next to each other, yes a longer base would be nice!
A very useful device. Video for Omegle.
Where can I buy this??
+wdfwgagyfgagyga Website in description
+Evipicc oops lol thanks
+wdfwgagyfgagyga That wasn't there when he first posted the video, I looked too when your's was the only comment
pricey, but I must have it.
Five degrees seems strange...
How is it "free"? rhetorical
+Bud martin - In that you don't attach a jig to the tool.
Had this system for a few years and stop using it almost as long; yet another gismo in the seemingly endless arrays of tool sharpening gagets so I had to give it a try, not impressed, the 5 different micro diamond cutters clog eaisly are time consuming to keep swapping out and differentiating, and if your chisel or plane blade is a little over or under 90 degrees you'll be there forever. Found the Worksharp 3000 system the best all around.
I just keep my tormek plugged in :-)