Tools seen in these videos► -Arm-style protractor: amzn.to/2QAknF4 -Eclipse-style honing jig: amzn.to/2wtlakq -Bridge City Tools honing guide: bridgecitytools.com/products/hg-4-honing-guide-1 -Trend 300/1000 diamond stone: amzn.to/2LPNKmA -Stropping leather: amzn.to/2n4BDmN -Stropping paste: amzn.to/2Azdezc -Shapton 4000 ceramic stone: amzn.to/2UP74BX (We may get a small financial return if you use the above affiliate links) When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us► Bridge City Tool Works: bridgecitytools.com/ Other sharpening videos you may enjoy► How to modify a cheap Eclipse-style jig: ruclips.net/video/ojzzCXq5ook/видео.html Choosing the best method/medium: ruclips.net/video/ADN_EbSihEM/видео.html A diamond stone tutorial video: ruclips.net/video/zBND6emsSE4/видео.html A CBN grinder stone tutorial: ruclips.net/video/IOXXiPK1L4s/видео.html Our Worksharp 3000 video: ruclips.net/video/UmMwIKzUagQ/видео.html Our Tormek video: ruclips.net/video/JgKkBpqXBv4/видео.html
When regrinding I try not to grind the honed edge, but grind to around 0.5 to 1mm away. This way you always have a honed edge that you don't have to rework. Especially with my good Lathe chisels.
The Bridge City honing guide may be the bestest with the mostest, but it is breathtakingly expensive. It will be worth it to me to figure out how to make one myself, even if it took two or three tries.
I've used the Eclipse-style jig for years. I can't use it for narrow blades, short blades, or thick blades, even with recommended modifications. You have just about sold me on the Bridge City tool.
Great video Stumpy. Thanks. I'm just learning kumiko and I find that sharpening my chisel, almost daily, is essential. I've yet to get it down correctly;. Your video helps me take the next step.
Good System and tips James Ive always used the Micro Bevel as you call it because thats how my Dad showed me to sharpen and he cut hair for 35 years who brought his Scissors home every night to sharpen them I never knew why he didnt set up a Sharpening area in his shop for all those years ? Which to me would had made sense BTW he always used a whetstone and insisted Saliva was the best lubricant so i still spit on the stones myself ! Although i have tried light oils too
Thanks Jim, I used the tips in this video to set up a set-up jig, and modify my cheap sharpening jig. I don’t have stones, just some sand paper and a piece of glass, but before I could test the whole thing out I realized that I am completely out of spray adhesive!
time to get me a hg-4 honing guide from bridge city! just ordered there try square and mini triangle, thanks for the videos you make i enjoy your videos alot and really value them, thanks for all you do and all the videos i know its not easy and i dont know how you people do it!
Hey Stumpy I have a quick question for ya. I have a similar honing guide to the one you used. My Instructions say that The top of the chisel should rest between the 2 flat sides of steel below them, not in those slots. Any idea why they would say that? It seems like they We're made to be used the way you described
Hi Stumpy - In previous videos you recommended the 300/1000 diamond Trend stone kit and you indicated that this was all one really needed for stones. However, in the honing jig, I am seeing the two stropping leathers the 300/1000 diamond stone PLUS the 180/600 Trend Diamond stone and what looks like a traditional whetstone which is showing some use. Can you provide some color as to how you use these other ones in practice and the benefit realized by having these additional stones? Thanks in advance! (And thanks for all the great information!)
I recommended the 1000 grit stone for sharpening, but always followed by stropping. 160-300-600 is for repairing or reshaping new bevels and getting them back to the point where you could use the 1000 again. The high grit Shapton wet stones are an alternative to stropping. Depends on what you feel more comfortable with.
Thanks for the tips. I have heard of bridge city but don’t own anything from them. Similar to how I don’t own anything from blue spruce... but I will check out that honing guide because I am not happy with the cheapo one I am using now. I do sharpen with sandpaper on glass and that works excellently. I doubt that I will ever get a diamond stone or especially a water stone. My main concern is that jig.
Thanks for the continued education. I'm just getting into hand planes (my new Jack plane is still in the box cause I don't want to mess it up...) and sharpening is totally new. I just ordered the Trend kit with jig and 1000/300 diamond stone, lapping fluid, etc. I did click the affiliate link before I ordered, but there doesn't seem to give any conformation that you will be given credit for the sale. I truly hope that you do because I like supporting good content like yours.
I know this is an older video, but I’m hoping you’ll still respond. Would you mind giving us the measurements for the set up blocks that you made for the bridge city HG-4?
Hi Charles, when talking about jigs there is one that you have missed, that is the homemade jig. I know there are a lot of them out there but one that I like is the “John Hirszt” version that is made from wood. I would be interested in you vies about this jig. PS I splurged out on the expensive choice.
Great video!! I've been thinking about changing my sharpening set up to utilize the stop set up!!! You've just put the icing on the cake for me! Great video and as usual great tips!! Keep up the good work!!
Thanks, Good video. How is the Bridge City honing jig at holding very narrow chisels? I have trouble fitting those in other honiing jigs and they tilt from side to side when sharpening freehand.
Nice info there. I'm ganna get me one of those guides, and a diamond stone! Have you ever done a video on the best starter hand plane to get? I know it's a question with the "depends on what you want to do" type of answer, but you've always been good at those. 🙂
The most versatile plane, in my opinion, is the #5-1/2. It's large toe makes it easier to keep it flat as you start a cut. It's large enough to joint the edges of short boards you want to glue into a panel. It's small enough to work as a smoother in many cases. Spend the money on a good one (Wood River is a great value).
Good video. I'd like to add that to be careful with the micro bevel. Guys at work will do that to their chisel and just keep chasing the edge around until it's round until sharp making it very difficult to consistently use.
This is unrelated to you hand sharpening but I’m curious if you’ve had a chance to try the CBN wheels out for the work sharp 3000. That system has always intrigued me but I’ve stayed away because I didn’t like the idea of a proprietary sandpaper but now I’m wondering if there’s an actual “permanent” option
I have an Eclipse-style jig, and I found that the bearing surface or the wheel (or maybe the shaft) wear over time, increasing the play in the wheel. When this happens, a straight, consistent edge is pretty much impossible because the tool rocks side-to-side from this increased play.
I have one of those cheap honing guides and really need to work it over with a file. I noticed the other day that my cutting edge is consistently honing out of square with the iron and that's no bueno. I'm just afraid I'll mess up my jig and get it even more out of square
I was thinking about getting the river City job jig until I saw the "HOLY CRAP IT'S $200!" price tag. Think I'll be sticking with my budget friendly one and over time hopefully learn to hone my hand sharpening skills.
Looks like a wonderful jig. Maybe I could turn one out myself, but I'd need a couple more tools to accomplish that... So in the end, am I just buying metalworking tools to make woodworking stuff, and buying woodworking tools to make benches for the metalworking equipment? That's a circular economy right there...
@@A1BASE The plane is a thing of beauty, and is a bargain now reduced to just $800. 😉 It's just plain annoying for James to be flat out advertizing Bridge City products as if they are the greatest thing since sliced bread, and not because he is getting paid to do so.
@@TrevorDennis100 Yeah, I was curious as to why he didn't even mention the Veritas honing jig. It's like 1/4 the price of the Bridge City jig, and it also predates their "innovative" micro bevel adjustment. Still, James has to make a buck somehow, what with his shop being shut down for the foreseeable.
Love your videos. Thanks for doing them. I do have one question though, In (on?) your background wall, it appears that you have two Tormec Sharpening systems. Why? Dennis
@@StumpyNubs sorry, I meant to say using a digital gauge when building the jig and positioning the blocks for fast set up. Thanks for the video, I love the idea of speeding up the hand sharpening process to make it less painful and something I'll do more often and faster so I can keep working. I'm looking to simplify my process so I'm going to build this exact set up!
Hi, my name is Andy and I've got a Bridge City Tools problem. There, I've said it, it's out there now. The planes are gorgeous; no, let me correct that, everything they make is gorgeous!
Hey Stumpy, you always advertise at the beginning of your videos to sign up for the journal. I’ve signed up several times, but never receive it. Is there a trick to getting on the list? Thx
Have you looked at the M-Power Fastrack II? It looks like a very low skill system all ready to go for chisels and plane irons that is cheaper than the good honing guide.
Bought the Bridge City Tools honing guide after watching this video, and I have to say that I'm really, really disappointed in it. I received the guide yesterday and set it up to use today. After about 10 minutes of use, the brass wheel seized and wouldn't turn. I loosened the wheel so that it would turn, and now the wheel will not stay attached unless I tighten the wheel so much that it will not turn. When I pay nearly $200 for a honing guide, I expect it to be amazing to use. My lowest expectation is that it will at least WORK. I understand that there are manufacturing defects and such that can happen, but I don't have much trust in the Bridge City Tools brand. I've submitted a support request to the company, but I'm thinking I'm going to just go for a refund and a Veritas guide.
I'm asking this same question of a number of youtuber craftsmen. I have an old, cheap table saw, a miter slide saw, a few cheap hand tools, and a desire to learn and hone my skills. What is the very first tool/jig/accessory I should build? Buy?
Woodworking is about making projects, not jigs or tools. So choose a project. If you need a specific tool or jig to make it, then get that. When you make another project, you may need another jig/tool. Let your projects guide your purchase decisions.
@@StumpyNubs I appreciate your quick response. I'm afraid I may have been a bit in concise, in the interest of brevity... which is the exact situation in trying to avoid in my projects. How do I know if what I have is good enough for my project without wasting precious time, material, energy, and funds in trial-and-error? What "modifications" "must" I make to my tools ... my table saw, for example ... before I try my first project? Is a sled a must have? A sacrificial fence? Etc. Etc. What must I have to take me from a garage hobbyist to a "real craftsman"?
Your question is so wide-ranging you are essentially asking me to summarize in one comment what we've created hundreds of videos to answer. How to tune a table saw, how to use sacrificial fences, sleds, sharpening... You have to learn about those things one at a time- I encourage you to avail yourself of all the free resources we've created for you on our channel :)
@@StumpyNubs Lol. I understand. I really do. But... which one should I do first? Which one will make the biggest improvement in the pieces produced for the least time and money costs? In other words... if you have a bunch of bench and table tools, all brand new out of the box; and you can only make one improvement to one of them this year. Which tool would you improve, and which improvement would you make?
Hi Mark, I just got a table saw a while back myself, after watching Stumpy's videos I determined that the handiest thing for my purposes would be a sled or two, seeing as there are several different designs.
A freebie bit of advice... create an aid to hold the tools at the precise angle for the novice... kinda what has been done for chainsaw blade sharpening chore.... you have plenty of woodworking tools that have no readily available sharpening jig,
I'll be right back. I crapped myself when I went to look at the price of the Bridge City Tools honing guide. More seriously, if you can afford it then it's nice.
So James, you don't know it yet, but we are buddies. That gives me the liberty to say, umm, I know your staff is out for a bit, but have you gotten a bit lax about shaving? So how can a sharpening video have the full impact, with a guy in need of a shave? 😁
$179 for a honing guide as recommendation? Is this meant for burnt out tech bros? For this much I get a full quality sharpening system. Or a slightly used Tormek
Why would anyone in his/right mind buy a $200 honing guide when a LiN sells for less and better still a Veritas at a fraction of the cost of either? Getting. Aught up with “glitz” or a gadget will cost you with only regret.
No, jigs make sharpening more accurate, which means less material must be removed, which makes it faster. Nobody said a jig is faster than free-hand, if you are skilled in that technique. But for weekend woodworkers who sharpen very infrequently and have not developed freehand skills, jigs do indeed make sharpening faster.
I'm using a silicon cooking sheet to keep my stone from sliding around. I'll make the sharpening board, as in the video, but will put the silicon over the board. That will keep the board completely dry.
Unfortunately, I bought one of the Larson sharpening jigs. As many others noted on Amazon, it is simply terrible for chisels!! It does not hold the chisel at all square in the device; neither parallel to the stone, nor square to the front of the device. VERY FRUSTRATING TOOL!
There needs to be an option between the $12 garbage and the $200 + your soul for jigs... just because I can’t justify a $200 jig doesn’t mean I should have a garbage one
If it was garbage, I wouldn't have recommended it. But, as I said there are other options out there. LN makes a much improved version of the Eclipse-style jig. LV makes a yoke style jig too. Both are in between in price and there are plenty of reviews online. Neither are as good as the BCT jig in this video. But I am sure you can find something you can work with if you do some looking.
Take a look at the Veritas Honing jig. I have one and it is brilliant and nowhere near the cost of the Bridge City one. Which does look very good. I should think the Veritas would be must less than half the price and they also have a very good name for quality tools.
Stumpy Nubs sounds like you just got your next video idea lol. I say this with a selfish intent as this is the guide I own but I also only sharpen my chisels like once a year and it’s an all day event.
I can get into every other page on the site without that warning. Clicking on the link to the sharpening guide, even from within the Bridge City Tools website, is the only page where I get that warning. Odd.
It irritates me immensely that I am required to modify or fix a tool that the manufacturer puts out in a defective or unusable state. This happens a lot with both cheap tools as well as the higher end ones. On inexpensive tools you expect to get what you paid for, not much. But on tools like a chisel or plane iron from the higher end line like Lie Neilson, having to flatten the back is ridiculous. For one, not so bad but for a set , a real pain. You get what you pay for and sometimes NOT. JMHO.🇨🇦👍👨🦳 That’s why Cosman preps everything prior to to shipping and charges for it in the high price.
Tools seen in these videos►
-Arm-style protractor: amzn.to/2QAknF4
-Eclipse-style honing jig: amzn.to/2wtlakq
-Bridge City Tools honing guide: bridgecitytools.com/products/hg-4-honing-guide-1
-Trend 300/1000 diamond stone: amzn.to/2LPNKmA
-Stropping leather: amzn.to/2n4BDmN
-Stropping paste: amzn.to/2Azdezc
-Shapton 4000 ceramic stone: amzn.to/2UP74BX
(We may get a small financial return if you use the above affiliate links)
When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us►
Bridge City Tool Works: bridgecitytools.com/
Other sharpening videos you may enjoy►
How to modify a cheap Eclipse-style jig: ruclips.net/video/ojzzCXq5ook/видео.html
Choosing the best method/medium: ruclips.net/video/ADN_EbSihEM/видео.html
A diamond stone tutorial video: ruclips.net/video/zBND6emsSE4/видео.html
A CBN grinder stone tutorial: ruclips.net/video/IOXXiPK1L4s/видео.html
Our Worksharp 3000 video: ruclips.net/video/UmMwIKzUagQ/видео.html
Our Tormek video: ruclips.net/video/JgKkBpqXBv4/видео.html
When regrinding I try not to grind the honed edge, but grind to around 0.5 to 1mm away. This way you always have a honed edge that you don't have to rework. Especially with my good Lathe chisels.
The Bridge City honing guide may be the bestest with the mostest, but it is breathtakingly expensive. It will be worth it to me to figure out how to make one myself, even if it took two or three tries.
Thanks for the tip on adding stops to the sharpening board, that's going to be a huge time saver.
You provide the clearest "How To" videos of wood working tools on RUclips
I don't often comment and even less watch 'spoken' videos, but i actually enjoyed this one because of the good content. Thanks, mate! 👍
You are a great communicator, each lesson of you is very helpful to me as a beginner in carpentry. Thank you. Eduardo Ramírez Tabasco - Mexico 🇲🇽
In under 8 minutes you have described how to set up a jig to sharpen chisels and plane blades. Thank you for the great video.
and how to empty my pockets to bridge city lol
I've used the Eclipse-style jig for years. I can't use it for narrow blades, short blades, or thick blades, even with recommended modifications. You have just about sold me on the Bridge City tool.
Good tips on accurizing the Eclipse-style jig. Thanks
Great video Stumpy. Thanks. I'm just learning kumiko and I find that sharpening my chisel, almost daily, is essential. I've yet to get it down correctly;. Your video helps me take the next step.
Good System and tips James Ive always used the Micro Bevel as you call it because thats how my Dad showed me to sharpen and he cut hair for 35 years who brought his Scissors home every night to sharpen them I never knew why he didnt set up a Sharpening area in his shop for all those years ? Which to me would had made sense BTW he always used a whetstone and insisted Saliva was the best lubricant so i still spit on the stones myself ! Although i have tried light oils too
Thanks for the useful video! These jigs really save time during sharpening tools.
Excellent video
Thanks Jim, I used the tips in this video to set up a set-up jig, and modify my cheap sharpening jig. I don’t have stones, just some sand paper and a piece of glass, but before I could test the whole thing out I realized that I am completely out of spray adhesive!
time to get me a hg-4 honing guide from bridge city! just ordered there try square and mini triangle, thanks for the videos you make i enjoy your videos alot and really value them, thanks for all you do and all the videos i know its not easy and i dont know how you people do it!
I said to my son this guy (you) is a natural teacher, thank you for your efforts. Another fantastic presentation.
Hey Stumpy I have a quick question for ya. I have a similar honing guide to the one you used. My Instructions say that The top of the chisel should rest between the 2 flat sides of steel below them, not in those slots. Any idea why they would say that? It seems like they We're made to be used the way you described
Very informative video stump. Thanks!
Outstanding video. Answered my question from Facebook. Thank you.
Speaking of fingers, how are yours doing? My new SawStop arrived today and I can't believe how beefy it is. I can't wait to put it together tomorrow.
As usual your topics and information about them are excellent! Thank you!
Awesome jig
Great video and advice Stumpy, thank you!
Hi Stumpy - In previous videos you recommended the 300/1000 diamond Trend stone kit and you indicated that this was all one really needed for stones. However, in the honing jig, I am seeing the two stropping leathers the 300/1000 diamond stone PLUS the 180/600 Trend Diamond stone and what looks like a traditional whetstone which is showing some use. Can you provide some color as to how you use these other ones in practice and the benefit realized by having these additional stones? Thanks in advance! (And thanks for all the great information!)
I recommended the 1000 grit stone for sharpening, but always followed by stropping. 160-300-600 is for repairing or reshaping new bevels and getting them back to the point where you could use the 1000 again. The high grit Shapton wet stones are an alternative to stropping. Depends on what you feel more comfortable with.
@@StumpyNubs Makes sense. Thanks!
Nicely done
Excellent video filled with useful information. Thank you.
Very informative. Thank you
Thanks for the tips. I have heard of bridge city but don’t own anything from them. Similar to how I don’t own anything from blue spruce... but I will check out that honing guide because I am not happy with the cheapo one I am using now. I do sharpen with sandpaper on glass and that works excellently. I doubt that I will ever get a diamond stone or especially a water stone. My main concern is that jig.
Thanks for the continued education. I'm just getting into hand planes (my new Jack plane is still in the box cause I don't want to mess it up...) and sharpening is totally new. I just ordered the Trend kit with jig and 1000/300 diamond stone, lapping fluid, etc. I did click the affiliate link before I ordered, but there doesn't seem to give any conformation that you will be given credit for the sale. I truly hope that you do because I like supporting good content like yours.
If you use one of my links to get to Amazon, I get a small credit for everything you buy on that visit, not just the sponsored tool. :)
I know this is an older video, but I’m hoping you’ll still respond. Would you mind giving us the measurements for the set up blocks that you made for the bridge city HG-4?
Hi Charles, when talking about jigs there is one that you have missed, that is the homemade jig. I know there are a lot of them out there but one that I like is the “John Hirszt” version that is made from wood. I would be interested in you vies about this jig. PS I splurged out on the expensive choice.
I always like homemade jigs if they work well.
Great video!! I've been thinking about changing my sharpening set up to utilize the stop set up!!! You've just put the icing on the cake for me! Great video and as usual great tips!! Keep up the good work!!
How do I work out one of them woodejigs for sharpning the one u make ???please 😮😮😮
Thanks, Good video. How is the Bridge City honing jig at holding very narrow chisels? I have trouble fitting those in other honiing jigs and they tilt from side to side when sharpening freehand.
It holds better than other jigs. 1/8-inch chisels can always be tricky, no matter the jig. But this one seems to do quite well.
Helpful video James. Would you recommend slightly tapering the corners of bevel-up plane blades as well?
?
Can anyone see my comment?
Will the bridge city tool works honing guide work with Japanese chisels?
Which side of the leather do you use (rough or smooth) when sharping, pros or cons of each side.
We made a more in-depth video about stropping that answers those questions. There's a link in the description below the video.
Good to see video still coming out in our time of need, as we now have more time on our hands. We can now date them by Stump Nubs "BS" Before Scars.
Honest question, how does this method compare to the Tormek, what gets most use?
I use my Tormek most of the time. But I teach other methods for my audience because not everyone has a Tormek.
Excellent!
Nice info there. I'm ganna get me one of those guides, and a diamond stone! Have you ever done a video on the best starter hand plane to get? I know it's a question with the "depends on what you want to do" type of answer, but you've always been good at those. 🙂
The most versatile plane, in my opinion, is the #5-1/2. It's large toe makes it easier to keep it flat as you start a cut. It's large enough to joint the edges of short boards you want to glue into a panel. It's small enough to work as a smoother in many cases. Spend the money on a good one (Wood River is a great value).
Good video. I'd like to add that to be careful with the micro bevel. Guys at work will do that to their chisel and just keep chasing the edge around until it's round until sharp making it very difficult to consistently use.
This is unrelated to you hand sharpening but I’m curious if you’ve had a chance to try the CBN wheels out for the work sharp 3000. That system has always intrigued me but I’ve stayed away because I didn’t like the idea of a proprietary sandpaper but now I’m wondering if there’s an actual “permanent” option
I have an Eclipse-style jig, and I found that the bearing surface or the wheel (or maybe the shaft) wear over time, increasing the play in the wheel. When this happens, a straight, consistent edge is pretty much impossible because the tool rocks side-to-side from this increased play.
I have one of those cheap honing guides and really need to work it over with a file. I noticed the other day that my cutting edge is consistently honing out of square with the iron and that's no bueno. I'm just afraid I'll mess up my jig and get it even more out of square
Thank You👍
I was thinking about getting the river City job jig until I saw the "HOLY CRAP IT'S $200!" price tag.
Think I'll be sticking with my budget friendly one and over time hopefully learn to hone my hand sharpening skills.
Looks like a wonderful jig. Maybe I could turn one out myself, but I'd need a couple more tools to accomplish that... So in the end, am I just buying metalworking tools to make woodworking stuff, and buying woodworking tools to make benches for the metalworking equipment? That's a circular economy right there...
@@kaasmeester5903 that's man math. Once you are tooled to make 1 jig then if you ever need another one it will be free.
I did the same looking at their bench plane. $1000? :O
And I thought Veritas tools were pricey!
@@A1BASE The plane is a thing of beauty, and is a bargain now reduced to just $800. 😉 It's just plain annoying for James to be flat out advertizing Bridge City products as if they are the greatest thing since sliced bread, and not because he is getting paid to do so.
@@TrevorDennis100 Yeah, I was curious as to why he didn't even mention the Veritas honing jig. It's like 1/4 the price of the Bridge City jig, and it also predates their "innovative" micro bevel adjustment. Still, James has to make a buck somehow, what with his shop being shut down for the foreseeable.
What do you think about the bridge city Toolworks tennonmaker?
I haven't used it. Sorry.
Love your videos. Thanks for doing them. I do have one question though,
In (on?) your background wall, it appears that you have two Tormec Sharpening systems. Why?
Dennis
So I don't have to swap wheels.
This is a great series. Sharpening should be a nice break from work...not a chore
any reason didn't use a digital angle gauge when setting up the blocks? Seems like that would be easier and more accurate than the protracto.
I've never tried it. I might give it a go. But it won't be faster than the stops on the board are.
@@StumpyNubs sorry, I meant to say using a digital gauge when building the jig and positioning the blocks for fast set up. Thanks for the video, I love the idea of speeding up the hand sharpening process to make it less painful and something I'll do more often and faster so I can keep working. I'm looking to simplify my process so I'm going to build this exact set up!
You can often get the eclipse style honing jugs at Rockler or Woodcraft on sale for around $10.
Hi, my name is Andy and I've got a Bridge City Tools problem. There, I've said it, it's out there now. The planes are gorgeous; no, let me correct that, everything they make is gorgeous!
Hey Stumpy, you always advertise at the beginning of your videos to sign up for the journal. I’ve signed up several times, but never receive it. Is there a trick to getting on the list?
Thx
We haven't been sending them out as we re-design both the e-magazine and the website.
Have you looked at the M-Power Fastrack II? It looks like a very low skill system all ready to go for chisels and plane irons that is cheaper than the good honing guide.
He's got one🤫
I was trying to find the one showmen in yesterday's video, and here it is.
What?
Bought the Bridge City Tools honing guide after watching this video, and I have to say that I'm really, really disappointed in it. I received the guide yesterday and set it up to use today. After about 10 minutes of use, the brass wheel seized and wouldn't turn. I loosened the wheel so that it would turn, and now the wheel will not stay attached unless I tighten the wheel so much that it will not turn.
When I pay nearly $200 for a honing guide, I expect it to be amazing to use. My lowest expectation is that it will at least WORK. I understand that there are manufacturing defects and such that can happen, but I don't have much trust in the Bridge City Tools brand. I've submitted a support request to the company, but I'm thinking I'm going to just go for a refund and a Veritas guide.
Please tell me how to get bridge city honing guide, your page does not work. Thanks
bridgecitytools.com/products/hg-4-honing-guide-1
I have an original Eclipse 36 made in England.
I'm asking this same question of a number of youtuber craftsmen. I have an old, cheap table saw, a miter slide saw, a few cheap hand tools, and a desire to learn and hone my skills. What is the very first tool/jig/accessory I should build? Buy?
Woodworking is about making projects, not jigs or tools. So choose a project. If you need a specific tool or jig to make it, then get that. When you make another project, you may need another jig/tool. Let your projects guide your purchase decisions.
@@StumpyNubs I appreciate your quick response. I'm afraid I may have been a bit in concise, in the interest of brevity... which is the exact situation in trying to avoid in my projects. How do I know if what I have is good enough for my project without wasting precious time, material, energy, and funds in trial-and-error? What "modifications" "must" I make to my tools ... my table saw, for example ... before I try my first project? Is a sled a must have? A sacrificial fence? Etc. Etc. What must I have to take me from a garage hobbyist to a "real craftsman"?
Your question is so wide-ranging you are essentially asking me to summarize in one comment what we've created hundreds of videos to answer. How to tune a table saw, how to use sacrificial fences, sleds, sharpening... You have to learn about those things one at a time- I encourage you to avail yourself of all the free resources we've created for you on our channel :)
@@StumpyNubs Lol. I understand. I really do. But... which one should I do first? Which one will make the biggest improvement in the pieces produced for the least time and money costs? In other words... if you have a bunch of bench and table tools, all brand new out of the box; and you can only make one improvement to one of them this year. Which tool would you improve, and which improvement would you make?
Hi Mark, I just got a table saw a while back myself, after watching Stumpy's videos I determined that the handiest thing for my purposes would be a sled or two, seeing as there are several different designs.
A freebie bit of advice... create an aid to hold the tools at the precise angle for the novice... kinda what has been done for chainsaw blade sharpening chore.... you have plenty of woodworking tools that have no readily available sharpening jig,
I'll be right back. I crapped myself when I went to look at the price of the Bridge City Tools honing guide.
More seriously, if you can afford it then it's nice.
"I have the stones"......classic.
👍👍👍
RoboPlanes by OCP...
So James, you don't know it yet, but we are buddies. That gives me the liberty to say, umm, I know your staff is out for a bit, but have you gotten a bit lax about shaving? So how can a sharpening video have the full impact, with a guy in need of a shave? 😁
Is it weird that I actually enjoy sharpening?
1:10 - Ba *Dumh!* _tsssh..._
Sharp tools are much more efficient, easier to use and safer. But you my friend are addicted to the mirror edge and going straight to 240 grit. 😊
You are mistaken.
$179 for a honing guide as recommendation? Is this meant for burnt out tech bros? For this much I get a full quality sharpening system. Or a slightly used Tormek
Why would anyone in his/right mind buy a $200 honing guide when a LiN sells for less and better still a Veritas at a fraction of the cost of either? Getting. Aught up with “glitz” or a gadget will cost you with only regret.
Massive sale on their website. This honing guide is currently $148.
Why is there not a love button?
Misleading title - jigs make tool sharpening slower. Have a look at freehand sharpening if you want to get up to speed.
No, jigs make sharpening more accurate, which means less material must be removed, which makes it faster. Nobody said a jig is faster than free-hand, if you are skilled in that technique. But for weekend woodworkers who sharpen very infrequently and have not developed freehand skills, jigs do indeed make sharpening faster.
I'm using a silicon cooking sheet to keep my stone from sliding around. I'll make the sharpening board, as in the video, but will put the silicon over the board. That will keep the board completely dry.
Where the knife sharpening jig😳
All the Bridge City products that can be purchased in UK are made in China
Not for me .
Unfortunately, I bought one of the Larson sharpening jigs. As many others noted on Amazon, it is simply terrible for chisels!! It does not hold the chisel at all square in the device; neither parallel to the stone, nor square to the front of the device. VERY FRUSTRATING TOOL!
Hey that's my crappy little honing...oh no, he's describing how it didn't work well for me.
There needs to be an option between the $12 garbage and the $200 + your soul for jigs... just because I can’t justify a $200 jig doesn’t mean I should have a garbage one
If it was garbage, I wouldn't have recommended it. But, as I said there are other options out there. LN makes a much improved version of the Eclipse-style jig. LV makes a yoke style jig too. Both are in between in price and there are plenty of reviews online. Neither are as good as the BCT jig in this video. But I am sure you can find something you can work with if you do some looking.
$200 for a sharpening jig? Too rich for my budget ☹️
That's why I also gave you a cheap option.
ok, the link above that is only $15
Take a look at the Veritas Honing jig. I have one and it is brilliant and nowhere near the cost of the Bridge City one. Which does look very good. I should think the Veritas would be must less than half the price and they also have a very good name for quality tools.
@@dan__________________ Not an oversight. I don't own one and have never used one.
Stumpy Nubs sounds like you just got your next video idea lol. I say this with a selfish intent as this is the guide I own but I also only sharpen my chisels like once a year and it’s an all day event.
Hell I have a jig on my circular saw so I can cut a straight line.
You missed the chance for an april fools video of the technique of putting you chisel in a vise and sharpening with a hammer.
When I go to the Bridge City Tools web site MalwareBytes stops the page and warns of a Trojan.
Your virus software is lazy. It's blanket rejecting sights without a certificate it recognizes.
I can get into every other page on the site without that warning. Clicking on the link to the sharpening guide, even from within the Bridge City Tools website, is the only page where I get that warning. Odd.
I use my jig every so often, but freehand when I'm in the middle of something.
It irritates me immensely that I am required to modify or fix a tool that the manufacturer puts out in a defective or unusable state. This happens a lot with both cheap tools as well as the higher end ones. On inexpensive tools you expect to get what you paid for, not much. But on tools like a chisel or plane iron from the higher end line like Lie Neilson, having to flatten the back is ridiculous. For one, not so bad but for a set , a real pain. You get what you pay for and sometimes NOT. JMHO.🇨🇦👍👨🦳 That’s why Cosman preps everything prior to to shipping and charges for it in the high price.