Hi, Lee from Wisconsin, My 72 R75/5 Dives also trying to decide who sells the closes to OEM spring and seal kit Not sure if you can answer this yet I have to suppliers in mind curious who you purchase from ?? Loved the video
My R100RS forks were soft. I ended up changing the oil to the highest viscosity allowed. The forks performance improved drastically. In my opinion it rides nicer than my indian chief
On time mark 10:37 the cartridge goes in with the piston rings. You need a special tool to avoid the rings to be damaged getting in. You don't show that, the video jumps to a next issue as if it gets in easily. This is the most tricky part of the assembly. Is also possible with self-made tool set-up, rings need to be compressed before going in, so any tool that does that will work. Also as jtreg says, use proper tools to unbolt the bolts on the top of the forks, they should be secured with high Nm, not using correct tool will damage them, as we see on many bikes, these bolts are now hard to find. Also the bolts with two small holes on the top of the forks, there is a special tool for this, important to put some down pressure on the tool to avoid damaging the two small holes.
this is not reality; the bike you are working on in the video is immaculate, no rust. You do not show the real issues of corrosion - for example, the nut at the top of the forks undo with the crescent wrench. This does not work for most folks (especially in a renovation scenario). The proper way is to unbolt the handlebars, hold them away with bungees or similar then use a 6 sided 36mm socket which has been shaved down in the lathe to make it absolutely flat (BMW tool 71.11.1.230.684 to the surface around the nut we are removing) then use a long breaker bar (possibly with a scaffold pole) on the end! This was my experience. Your voice as well; please stop describing what we already see: " I am undoing this nut now; Tell us something people actually NEED to know when they encounter real struggles with a more neglected example perhaps?
This is great documentation. Thank you very much.
Glad to be of service.
Wow. Thank you so much. I now have the confidence to do the same to my R80/7.
Get to it! You got this!
Helpful guide for my ‘73 R75/5 .. fork rebuild is on the list.
You won’t regret it!
Becoming one of my favorite channels. Great job you guys. Newfoundland Canada.
Thanks for watching from Newfoundland!
love this project. Great video.
Glad you liked it!
Greetings from Norway 🌹🤎
Hi, Lee from Wisconsin, My 72 R75/5 Dives also trying to decide who sells the closes to OEM spring and seal kit Not sure if you can answer this yet I have to suppliers in mind curious who you purchase from ?? Loved the video
My R100RS forks were soft. I ended up changing the oil to the highest viscosity allowed. The forks performance improved drastically. In my opinion it rides nicer than my indian chief
I like a firm front suspension. I use 15 wt oil
👍👍👍
Thanks for watching
Is this the same procedure for a R60US?
Yes!
Is the factory hardware stainless steel?
Nope, it’s zinc plated
On time mark 10:37 the cartridge goes in with the piston rings. You need a special tool to avoid the rings to be damaged getting in. You don't show that, the video jumps to a next issue as if it gets in easily. This is the most tricky part of the assembly. Is also possible with self-made tool set-up, rings need to be compressed before going in, so any tool that does that will work. Also as jtreg says, use proper tools to unbolt the bolts on the top of the forks, they should be secured with high Nm, not using correct tool will damage them, as we see on many bikes, these bolts are now hard to find. Also the bolts with two small holes on the top of the forks, there is a special tool for this, important to put some down pressure on the tool to avoid damaging the two small holes.
this is not reality; the bike you are working on in the video is immaculate, no rust. You do not show the real issues of corrosion - for example, the nut at the top of the forks undo with the crescent wrench. This does not work for most folks (especially in a renovation scenario). The proper way is to unbolt the handlebars, hold them away with bungees or similar then use a 6 sided 36mm socket which has been shaved down in the lathe to make it absolutely flat (BMW tool 71.11.1.230.684 to the surface around the nut we are removing) then use a long breaker bar (possibly with a scaffold pole) on the end! This was my experience. Your voice as well; please stop describing what we already see: " I am undoing this nut now; Tell us something people actually NEED to know when they encounter real struggles with a more neglected example perhaps?