Hi Andrew, thank you for your valuable feedback! Wow, I actually did not know that about this fork, since I have not worked on a /7 yet! This comment will be pinned for others to see, in case they are looking for this advice. Do you know if the internal parts are the same size? Can you use the same seal rebuild kit maybe? Thank again!! Regards Andreas
Thank you very much for your amazing feedback and support towards my detailed videos! It's not always easy to pack a lot of information into a 15-20minute video, but I always try my best. There are more projects on the way and I cannot wait to share them with you. Regards Andreas
Unless you are replacing the original fork tubes (with new parts), right-side/left side location should be marked, and their rotation 'clocked' (the split in the lower clamp makes a good reference point) so that they can be re-installed on the same side of that they were originally on. Over time these tubes will actually take a 'set' (bend slightly); when placed on two V-blocks and rotated, a dial indicator placed in the middle will, more often than not, show that the tubes are no longer straight. Placing a mark on the tube (clocking it) will ensure that the sliders operate smoothly. You can use a Sharpie pen, but need to be careful when cleaning that you don't wipe it off.
Hi there! I cannot disagree with what you mentioned and that is best practice. Every fork tube must be measured with precision tools like I did at minute 08:31 and they are either good or bad. In my case, I had less that 0.0005" of runout which is probably the same runout that came out of the BMW factory. If any viewers see this comment, I hope they take your instructions into consideration as well! Thanks for leaving a helpful comment!! Regards Andreas
Hello Tim, thank you very much for your wonderful words! I am happy to know you enjoyed my presentation and hopefully this video will bring you value. Thanks again, Regards Andreas
Great Video! This will certainly help me when I tackle the job. I really like how thorough you explain each step of the rebuild including the tools used. Thank you!
Hi John, thank you so much! I'm glad I can help fellow BMW enthusiasts out there, especially when it comes to the /5 models. I always try to share as many details as possible, to make the viewing experience easier. This involves adding parts, tools and products to the list and every now and then I forget something, but that is just part of the learning curve.😄 Thank you for watching and leaving a very positive comment! Regards Andreas
Thank you very much Bruce and you're very welcome! This comment helps A LOT and it also gives me a good feeling to share more content. Thanks again, Regards Andreas
Hi Jon! Thank you for your valuable comment and positive feedback. I am very aware of high shop costs and I hope this video will give you the confidence to rebuild your own forks. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out in the comment section. Regards Andreas
Thanks a lot for your support and I hope you could take something away from this video for your own purpose! The final drive is ready for assembly, but I am waiting for parts to arrive from Germany. These parts will arrive at at the same time as the engine parts, so it will take a few more weeks... Speaking about the final drive video, it will be a separate video and I'm really looking forward to assemble it. Until then I will work around the frame and get some components mounted, so it looks like I'm actually working on a bike! Thanks for your great question! Regards Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild I found that Andrew "Ande" Kahora at Berrington Motor Works in Berrington, New Hampshire to be very reasonably priced on welding the spline on the final drive if needed. He only works on old airheads. Might want to give him a call.
I am in touch with Andrew and he offers great service. Unfortunately, I cannot reuse the pinion and ring gear. They are too far gone and therefore I needed a brand new set. These are only available in Europe and I was lucky enough to find the correct ratio for an R60/5, because it is an oddball ratio! I actually purchased the splined shaft to do the weld-repair myself, but the gears are gone, so that can be used on a future project 😁 I‘ll be a fun assembly especially with brand new parts. Thank you for offering your help, it‘s much appreciated!!👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks Chris! I thought I'd mix it up a little bit and try something new. Hopefully with help of this video you'll be able to assemble your suspension in no time. I appreciate it -Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild for sure, it'll be a breeze. I took mine apart over a year ago, so I was a nice refresher. Your videos are so easy to follow! Also, love the use of the punches to hold things in place as you tighten, really helpful tips!
That's quite some time, but I'm sure the finish on your front suspension will be impressive...so it's worth waiting for the final result. Thanks man! This might not be the way other people would do it, but I always try to use what I have in my shop. This way I get a little bit creative when I don't have certain tools or even those special tools from BMW. Once again thanks for your comment & feedback
Great video!! Thank you for putting it together! It is incredibly useful! One question, what liquid did you use for the cleaning process? Thank you in advance for your help, Hector
Thank you for your comment, Hector! I always go through all my comments and love to read comments like yours!! I'm glad you were able to find this video useful and hopefully, it will assist with some of your own repairs. The liquid used to clean the fork leg surface was just water mixed with some pressure washer cleaner. I used this just to get rid of some of the oil on the fork leg before I opened it up. Afterwards, I made sure to clean it even better. Thanks for tuning in! Regards Andreas
Hi, at 25:40 you can see me install the aluminum crush washer. Originally there is a copper crush washer, but both materials work just fine. I hope this helps. Regards Andreas
That's a great questions Arthur! Usually there is only one thread that is damaged if it does not want to thread in all the way. You should closely inspect the inner thread on the fork leg and the external thread on the large bottom nut. Either one of them must have a small area of damage. If you locate the damage on the external thread you can file it out with a triangular file, but if you have a damaged thread on the fork leg you will have to get that recut. Another thing that could have happened is that the fork leg itself is oval. This could happen from damage over time or even from clamping it in a vise. I hope these tips helps you identify your issue. Regards Andreas
I see. The best thing to do is the get a small triangular file and remove the damage between the flank of the thread. If you do not have a triangular file, you can also try a little piece of emery cloth or sandpaper.
As part of a fork oil change process I noticed a small amount of rubber floaters in the used fork oil. Rather than a complete tear down of the forks to replace the bottom bushing Do you think it would be possible to go a step further by undoing the small locknut followed by large bottom nut to replace the bottom bushing and the crush washers and retighten the large bottom nut while the forks are still on the bike? Allan
That's a great question! The way you described the disassembly process is spot on. You might want to secure the bottom fork leg with a zip tie or a wire just to hold it from sliding down. If you have rubber floaters, it is most likely from the bottom bumper that is tucked away in the large nut. Once replaced, make sure to install two new copper washers (one on the large nut and one under the lock nut). With new oil you should be good for many more years. Thanks for your inquiry! Cheers
@@WorkshopRebuild Thanks for your help and tips yet again. According to the BMW workshop manual the torque on the fork leg cap nut should be 117.95 -126 nM (87-93 ft lbs) or Haynes 79.99-98.97 nM (53-73 ft lbs) which sounds a lot to me at the end of the fork leg. From your experience do you think those figures are achievable without the wheel fitted and and not risk twisting the forks out of alignment?
@@allanmorgan7022 Anything over 80Nm usually needs to be secured very well. I would suggest you mount the front wheel and turn the forks until it touches the steering stop. Then go ahead and torque your fork leg caps to spec. Always try to use two hands while torquing, one on the grip and one right above the socket you'll be using. This will ensure the socket is seated properly and not allow the torque wrench to pivot in any other direction. Regards Andreas
Hello Michael, technically speaking they are not exactly V-Blocks, but for this setup it was very similar to that. I ordered a truing shaft and these "blocks"came with it. Here you can see the link: amzn.to/3XSyW7j Unfortunately, this item is no longer available, but these can be easily replicated it you copy the design! (2x T-Profile aluminum extrusion pieces, 4 roller bearings and 4 bolts). I hope this helps. Regards Andreas
Good content & nicely presented. Thanks! By the way: the forks on the /7 models (I have an R750) are exactly the same for strip-down and re-build.
Hi Andrew, thank you for your valuable feedback! Wow, I actually did not know that about this fork, since I have not worked on a /7 yet! This comment will be pinned for others to see, in case they are looking for this advice. Do you know if the internal parts are the same size? Can you use the same seal rebuild kit maybe?
Thank again!! Regards Andreas
ANOTHER EXCELLENT WORK, VERY CAREFUL AND WELL DETAILED, MANY DETAILS, EVERYTHING VERY CLEAN, OPTIMAL EDITION/ASSEMBLY... YOU CAN SEE THE PASSION...
Thank you very much for your amazing feedback and support towards my detailed videos! It's not always easy to pack a lot of information into a 15-20minute video, but I always try my best. There are more projects on the way and I cannot wait to share them with you. Regards Andreas
another brilliant video
Thank you for leaving comments on a regular! I appreciate your support - Andreas
Impressed with your knowledge, organization, and planning skills.
Thank you very much for your overly positive comment. It means a lot to me! Regards Andreas
Thank you very much for your overly positive comment. It means a lot to me! Regards Andreas
Unless you are replacing the original fork tubes (with new parts), right-side/left side location should be marked, and their rotation 'clocked' (the split in the lower clamp makes a good reference point) so that they can be re-installed on the same side of that they were originally on. Over time these tubes will actually take a 'set' (bend slightly); when placed on two V-blocks and rotated, a dial indicator placed in the middle will, more often than not, show that the tubes are no longer straight. Placing a mark on the tube (clocking it) will ensure that the sliders operate smoothly. You can use a Sharpie pen, but need to be careful when cleaning that you don't wipe it off.
Hi there! I cannot disagree with what you mentioned and that is best practice. Every fork tube must be measured with precision tools like I did at minute 08:31 and they are either good or bad. In my case, I had less that 0.0005" of runout which is probably the same runout that came out of the BMW factory.
If any viewers see this comment, I hope they take your instructions into consideration as well! Thanks for leaving a helpful comment!! Regards Andreas
That. Was my only remark as well, thx
Thanks!
Hi Clee1649, thank you so much for your support and generosity! 😀 I hope this video has helped you out. Regards Andreas
Look I’ve studied engineering but this is where it’s at -spot on videos , beautifully run through
Huge thanks
Hello Tim, thank you very much for your wonderful words! I am happy to know you enjoyed my presentation and hopefully this video will bring you value. Thanks again, Regards Andreas
Great Video! This will certainly help me when I tackle the job. I really like how thorough you explain each step of the rebuild including the tools used. Thank you!
Hi John, thank you so much! I'm glad I can help fellow BMW enthusiasts out there, especially when it comes to the /5 models. I always try to share as many details as possible, to make the viewing experience easier. This involves adding parts, tools and products to the list and every now and then I forget something, but that is just part of the learning curve.😄
Thank you for watching and leaving a very positive comment! Regards Andreas
Another outstanding rebuild😃 The disassembly process was super satisfying to watch and hear! Keep it up man
Thanks Mathew! I tried something new and thought it would be a great idea. I'm glad you enjoyed that part!
Excellent video! Organized, clear, good audio and video work. Thank you!
Thank you very much Bruce and you're very welcome! This comment helps A LOT and it also gives me a good feeling to share more content. Thanks again, Regards Andreas
great video/tutorial 👏👏
Thank you very much for your kind feedback! Regards Andreas😃👍🏽
great video !!👍👍 Just what i Need for my fork rebuild , got the same bike , and leaving it for the shop would be too expensive .learned a lot here
Hi Jon! Thank you for your valuable comment and positive feedback. I am very aware of high shop costs and I hope this video will give you the confidence to rebuild your own forks. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out in the comment section. Regards Andreas
Fantastic explanation. Thanks again.
I'm glad you found value within this video and thanks for leaving another insightful comment. Regards Andreas
great job. very helpful video
Hi Scott, thanks for watching this video and I'm very glad you found this helpful. All the best with your repairs. Regards Andreas
Great video. I think I've watched it 6 times. Well done. Did you ever do a video on assembling the final drive?
Thanks a lot for your support and I hope you could take something away from this video for your own purpose! The final drive is ready for assembly, but I am waiting for parts to arrive from Germany. These parts will arrive at at the same time as the engine parts, so it will take a few more weeks...
Speaking about the final drive video, it will be a separate video and I'm really looking forward to assemble it. Until then I will work around the frame and get some components mounted, so it looks like I'm actually working on a bike! Thanks for your great question! Regards Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild I found that Andrew "Ande" Kahora at Berrington Motor Works in Berrington, New Hampshire to be very reasonably priced on welding the spline on the final drive if needed. He only works on old airheads. Might want to give him a call.
I am in touch with Andrew and he offers great service. Unfortunately, I cannot reuse the pinion and ring gear. They are too far gone and therefore I needed a brand new set. These are only available in Europe and I was lucky enough to find the correct ratio for an R60/5, because it is an oddball ratio!
I actually purchased the splined shaft to do the weld-repair myself, but the gears are gone, so that can be used on a future project 😁
I‘ll be a fun assembly especially with brand new parts. Thank you for offering your help, it‘s much appreciated!!👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
@@WorkshopRebuild sorry your final drive was too far gone.
Well done! I agree the disassembly portion was bordering on ASMR, lol. Great job as always!
Thanks Chris! I thought I'd mix it up a little bit and try something new. Hopefully with help of this video you'll be able to assemble your suspension in no time. I appreciate it -Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild for sure, it'll be a breeze. I took mine apart over a year ago, so I was a nice refresher. Your videos are so easy to follow! Also, love the use of the punches to hold things in place as you tighten, really helpful tips!
That's quite some time, but I'm sure the finish on your front suspension will be impressive...so it's worth waiting for the final result. Thanks man! This might not be the way other people would do it, but I always try to use what I have in my shop. This way I get a little bit creative when I don't have certain tools or even those special tools from BMW. Once again thanks for your comment & feedback
Great video!!
Thank you for putting it together! It is incredibly useful!
One question, what liquid did you use for the cleaning process?
Thank you in advance for your help,
Hector
Thank you for your comment, Hector! I always go through all my comments and love to read comments like yours!! I'm glad you were able to find this video useful and hopefully, it will assist with some of your own repairs. The liquid used to clean the fork leg surface was just water mixed with some pressure washer cleaner. I used this just to get rid of some of the oil on the fork leg before I opened it up. Afterwards, I made sure to clean it even better. Thanks for tuning in! Regards Andreas
Excuse me, but did you forget to refill the forks with fresh oil?
Hi Hans, I did not add oil to the forks as they were installed onto the triple clamp at a later day. Cheers
I'm pretty sure you forgot a crush washer that goes at the end of the piston rod, and under the large lower slider cap.
Hi, at 25:40 you can see me install the aluminum crush washer. Originally there is a copper crush washer, but both materials work just fine. I hope this helps. Regards Andreas
I disassembled mine but one of the 2 large bottom nuts won't screw all the way in any tips or ideas
That's a great questions Arthur! Usually there is only one thread that is damaged if it does not want to thread in all the way. You should closely inspect the inner thread on the fork leg and the external thread on the large bottom nut. Either one of them must have a small area of damage. If you locate the damage on the external thread you can file it out with a triangular file, but if you have a damaged thread on the fork leg you will have to get that recut.
Another thing that could have happened is that the fork leg itself is oval. This could happen from damage over time or even from clamping it in a vise.
I hope these tips helps you identify your issue. Regards Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild I know it is the large nut because I can screw the other one in either fork leg. I will have to look at the external tread
I see. The best thing to do is the get a small triangular file and remove the damage between the flank of the thread. If you do not have a triangular file, you can also try a little piece of emery cloth or sandpaper.
As part of a fork oil change process I noticed a small amount of rubber floaters in the used fork oil. Rather than a complete tear down of the forks to replace the bottom bushing Do you think it would be possible to go a step further by undoing the small locknut followed by large bottom nut to replace the bottom bushing and the crush washers and retighten the large bottom nut while the forks are still on the bike? Allan
That's a great question! The way you described the disassembly process is spot on. You might want to secure the bottom fork leg with a zip tie or a wire just to hold it from sliding down. If you have rubber floaters, it is most likely from the bottom bumper that is tucked away in the large nut. Once replaced, make sure to install two new copper washers (one on the large nut and one under the lock nut). With new oil you should be good for many more years. Thanks for your inquiry! Cheers
@@WorkshopRebuild Thanks for your help and tips yet again. According to the BMW workshop manual the torque on the fork leg cap nut should be 117.95 -126 nM (87-93 ft lbs) or Haynes 79.99-98.97 nM (53-73 ft lbs) which sounds a lot to me at the end of the fork leg. From your experience do you think those figures are achievable without the wheel fitted and and not risk twisting the forks out of alignment?
@@allanmorgan7022 Anything over 80Nm usually needs to be secured very well. I would suggest you mount the front wheel and turn the forks until it touches the steering stop. Then go ahead and torque your fork leg caps to spec.
Always try to use two hands while torquing, one on the grip and one right above the socket you'll be using. This will ensure the socket is seated properly and not allow the torque wrench to pivot in any other direction.
Regards Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild thanks again for great tips and pointers. I will have a go. Kind regards
Where did you get your V blocks?
Hello Michael, technically speaking they are not exactly V-Blocks, but for this setup it was very similar to that. I ordered a truing shaft and these "blocks"came with it. Here you can see the link: amzn.to/3XSyW7j
Unfortunately, this item is no longer available, but these can be easily replicated it you copy the design! (2x T-Profile aluminum extrusion pieces, 4 roller bearings and 4 bolts). I hope this helps. Regards Andreas