Making Aluminum Oxide For Synthetic Ruby - ElementalMaker
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- In this video were turning a blob of aluminum from melting soda cans into reasonably pure aluminum oxide for use in making synthetic ruby.
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Trivago
@@ElementalMaker can you do this with the aluminum oxide that comes from a gallium and aluminum reaction?. When you put Alga And to water it creates hydrogen gas and the aluminum oxidizes separating from the gallium. The aluminum oxide is pure as far as my knowledge goes and I was wondering if that. would work in this same method?
XD
The black “carbon” residue also contains a fair amount of manganese and magnesium with trace amounts of silicon and iron. Aluminum cans are made from 2 different Aluminum alloys; Al alloy 3104 (body: 98%Al, 1.15%Mg, 0.9%Mn) and Al alloy 5182 (lid/top: 95.1%Al, 4.65%Mg, 0.25%Mn.)
The can top’s alloy 5182 contains more than double the magnesium -making the alloy more brittle- to ensure the “easy-open” mouth punches out along the scoring mark via the pull tab. Manganese is added to both the body and the top to make the can sheet more ductile during pressing & rolling.
FWIW: Aluminum foil is over 99% pure aluminum, however - and makes for a more pure precipitate.
Well shit, thanks for posting this for two years I've been carefully removing and saving the can tops believing them to be more pure for smelting. I'm glad I read this and thank you for being so exact with what you said. I'll look into it, but I guess I've been wasting my time topping cans and recycling.
Great excuse with the other half!
“What’s all that over your sports sock?”
“Oh that’s just aluminium oxide” 😂
Wouldn't be the first time!
You have sports socks? I didn't realize there were different kinds of socks. I guess that would explain the different lengths and colors.
@@Unmannedair 🤣🤣 regardless of shape and size they are all good for being a jizz buster! 🤣
You're a combination of This Old Tony, AvE, and NileRed. Glad I found you at 22k, won't be long till 100k...
I sure hope so! I truly appreciate you mentioning me in the same breath as those guys, love all their stuff and consider that an honor. Welcome aboard!
His voice is almost as deep at nerdrage without the voice changer
i was thinking the exact same daniel
@@ElementalMaker I was convinced it was AvE using a voice changer.
Lo Siento Mis Amigos, no AVE here.
Stay away from sodium compounds. The sodium is near impossible to remove and just the slightest amount of sodium impurity will cause the corundum to be opaque. :) I prefer to use Potassium hydroxide as it is easier to remove. Use a slight amount of HCl to bind with the residual potassium and iron impurities. After about 8 rinses, test the pH and it should only be the slightest bit basic. Use ammonia to neutralize any remaining HCl. Calcinate the Al2(OH)3 then rinse another half dozen times to remove any excess soluble salts.
Damn I wish I knew that earlier. I'm going to give it a go with what I made here, but if it turns out like crap I'll give the process you outlined a go. I am going to give my aluminum oxide a few more washes before attempting to make ruby.
@@ElementalMaker What you have will be good enough for your first experiments. In fact, they use aluminum oxide made by the sodium hydroxide method for industrial grade ruby which doesn't need to be transparent. Things like bearings for example have synthetic ruby roller pins that will never see the light of day.
If you have any questions at all I have done an extensive amount of research and experimentation. A great starting point on your Al2O3 to Cr2O3 ratio is 95:5 by weight. Anywhere between 1% to 8% Cr2O3 is used for synthetic ruby, but the most common percentages are between 3% to 5%. You can get an idea of what part of the flame is optimal for fusing the doped alumina by shaping a cone or pyramid of oxide feed material and bring the flame down onto the tip to see where it melts. Ideally you'll want about 3200 Celsius to initially melt the feed material as it passes through the center of the flame if you are using the Verveuil method. Alumina melts at 2070 Celsius, but you'll want the surface of the boule to be resting in the 2200 Celsius gradient of the flame for more precise crystal formation.
Also, mix your chromium (III) oxide and alumina in a plastic cup, preferably with a magnetic stir. It doesn't require heat for mixing but you WILL need a very homogenous mixture as the chromium beads up into lumps at the microscopic level and you'll see blotchy red and green dots among the more homogenous reddish color of the overall ruby. I emphasize the point on using plastic because aluminum oxide will severely etch the inside of your beaker/glassware for any level of stiring. Plastic cups from the craft store made for mixing resins are perfect for this work because the plastic is HDPE, so you are very unlikely to contami ate your oxide feed.
If you decide to get into attempting to make sapphire, you will hate life for the first three or four attempts. Info found in various patents is purposely misleading to keep company proprietary information secret. Finding exact concise info on the the subject is not a trivial and average day on the net. Only a handful of successful companies exist in this world by keeping their composition recipes and procedure under tight security lock and key. If you happen to be pushed into contact with someone like Djeva, they flat out tell you it is good to see you taking an interest into the gem making world, but then they try to break your momentum by telling you there is so much more involved than the chemistry alone and they are sorry they cannot assist snore beyond that level of detail as they need to keep their trade secrets. I totally get that because we would all do that with competitive businesses to run.
They also abruptly cease all communication when you completely understand their concern and was only looking for an encouraging thumbs up to ley me know I was on the correct path I've been following on my own. I told them how easy rubies are made, everything I've done to get very pure starting material including the most common industrial way of decomposing pure heated aluminum in an inert atmosphere which then has pure chlorine gas added to, the furnace chamber with the isolated aluminum to react vigorously with the chlorine vapor. A later introduces pure ammonia gas into the apparatus to makr highly pure Al2OH3 as all other by products are gasses and ammonium chloride salt which is very easy to separate from the oxide feed.
I have a shit ton more to tell you to help you on your way. You are the fourth person whom had come to me to learn what I taught myself. Sapphire is no lie. It is a pain in the are to get the desired color, but yay for you I figured out the chemistry a while back. It is tricky fo create, mix and heat just to do that part right. Furnace conditions and timing is critical or you get common grey sapphire.--a well documented problem.
Where are you getting the chromium?
@@TheLightningStalker I have a couple lbs of chromium (III) oxide from a pottery supply seller on eBay. I also have elemental chromium I bought from a Chinese seller.
Hi, tnx 4sharing, but how can we calcinate it? Pls could you tell us?
Some suggestions I’d make. #1. Use an Ice bath to cool the exothermic reactions. Instead of adding water. It’s more affective.
#2. After you add the sodium carbonate to your AlCl3 solution ( and you added far to much. Just add the NaCO3 slowly, a little at a time until the addition of a small quantity no longer fizzes.) heat it to just below boiling and let it digest for 10-15 minutes.
Filter while still hot to remove impurities and to keep the Alumina in solution. Allow to cool then precipitate the Alumina Hydroxide.
After calcining the the Alumina Hydroxide to Alumina if the product isn’t pure white you can further purify the product by just repeating the chemical process until the final product is white.
Great advice. I also thought about bath, shower with you.😂👍
The extra carbon in the melted aluminum can also be from a thin plastic lining inside the cans. I watched your video a couple of weeks ago and have been mulling over the extra carbon. Then I finally remembered the plastic lining. There seemed to be too much carbon for just the ink to account for. Also, I think the tab is made of some kind of alloy other than just aluminum. Love your videos.
Guess I'm number 10 on your patreon. I like your videos man. You do what I want to do but I'm too lazy to do it lol. Keep it up man!
Your the man Shane! Thanks so much for supporting my channel!
Me in the meantime as an autodidact :
Scrupulously calculate the stochiometrics quantities for each step, trying to be clever on what should be in moderate exces to be conveniently disposed.
Also double check the NaCl solubility in water at theoric temperature to be sure that none will precipitate :)
Thanks for the video, it was exactly what i was looking for !
Whoa... I've been planning to try making synthetic corundum too!
Nice! It should make for a cool project!
@@ElementalMaker hello sir
DISTILLED WATER. Or something like that, lol. Wow that's quite a process!
Not just Brits. Anybody who isn't a Yank.
Yep, that's fair. We're pretty special here in the US LOL
@@ElementalMaker well it was a yank that named it so...
“To my other favorite W.W. It's an honor working with you. Fondly, G.B.
Aluminium can body is alloy 3104, around 0.8% Mn and 0.8% Mg and 0.8 Fe. The top is alloy 5182, about 5% Mg with some Mn. The alloys are composition are formulated to produce 3104 alloy when remelted top and body for recycling. There is also some copper in both alloys.
Seems like a healthy hobby
If you crushed that in your ball mill to a fine powder and then drag a neodymium magnet through it you might be able to get some more iron removed. Not sure if it's worth the effort but it's an idea.
Not cool how that other guy yoinked your vid. I've been subbed for a few months and I enjoy your content. Keep making things so good, people wanna steal it!
Thanks for the kind words. I'll keep the good stuff coming 👍
You think he owns all of science? This video is his; the process he used is not. Anybody can do this and make a video of it. They didn’t take this exact video, they made their own that followed it. If people had to do a different experiment with every video, then we would run out of projects. And I don’t see you crying on every other video that has duplicated themes from other youtubers. The other guy did nothing wrong.
Its probably not carbon, you get the same results with aluminum foil as well. I always figured it was tiny aluminum or aluminum oxide particles. Its grey, not black like carbon would be. You would think it being so fine it would dissolve, but I think the acid just lost too much strength by the time those particles formed to easily dissolve them.
I know this is a very old post but something I noticed the other day. When dissolving soda can tabs in hcl my solution stayed clear, unlike when I used scrap aluminum. I was actually shocked as I had already prepared the filter. It made the process far less tedious.
I appreciate you responding to my comments on your other videos, my name is not Kim I'm just a fan of the guy, I'm Ryan, I'm a truck driver and your videos entertain me for 11 hours a day thank you!
Ah sorry about that Ryan! Glad your enjoying the videos 👍
@@ElementalMaker good entertainment especially when on i94/90 in Chicago
You could use more aluminum to knock out iron ions from the solution through metal reactivity
You can actually get the oxide directly dissolving that chunk on the anode in the NaCl solution at 80+ deg. C. AlCl3 will react with NaOH from the cathodic area. At room T it will form a Al(OH)3 but with high temperature hydroxide will degrade to oxide.
residue most likely comes from the inner plastic membrane. great vid
I, too, used pop cans for high purity aluminum when I made Aluminum Chloride. I never had that much carbon in the alloy. perhaps our methodologies were different. I also allowed my crucible to remain well above above the mp for a while to drive off volatiles.
That's the main difference as to why your method had less carbon. The carbon is actually from the thin plastic coating that lines the inside of soda cans to protect the aluminum from reacting with the liquid contents. This lining protects the flavor of the drink and the structural integrity of the can. By continuously heating and prolonging the smelting process the lighter carbon from the plastic has more time rise to the surface and be removed as slag while small amounts boil off as CO2 gas.
@@PGIFilms but that wastes alot of heat and therefore more money than just using a filter like this guy did
@@Cockalicious’d really only worry about the money spent on heating if you were doing this on an industrial scale
They also coat the inside of the can so your beverage is not touching aluminum. That organic coating material is probably what you experienced.
Yeah I realized I missed that in editing and added a text box in the video
He threw away the most expensive part of the experiment: the acidic exfoliated graphene ! 😂
Was that the carbon left over from the vacuum?
Find a way to add nitrogen, and you have come close to Alon (transparent aluminum ceramic.) Fun stuff!
I think it might take just a bit more to make then just blowing some nitrogen in there, but damn that's some cool stuff. Honestly haven't heard or it before, but wow those are some very impressive material properties.
I love you man, great work!
I share your science impatience
I'll be honest, it was mostly my wife rushing me for dinner LOL
In fact, most soda and beer cans contain a little iron to make it ferromagnetic enough for sorting at the trash dump. Also the inside from the cans are lightly coated with something. From my experience most if not all brands of energy drinks use all aluminium cans, or at least an alloy where the aluminium content is relative high compared to other cans with different alloys for different drinks. Test it with a strong magnet and you will see it for yourself. P.S. The rest of the world says Aluminium, only Americans say Aluminum.
Yeah the inside of cans are coated with an BPA based enamel if I remember correctly. Ill have to test that, but per wikipedia: "The aluminium used in United States and Canada are alloys containing 92.5% to 97% aluminium,
I hope that you succeed in finding a good source for what you need, it is quite an interesting project to follow :-) Big thumbs up !!
For Aluminium Use ALWAYS A Hard Disc Drive Discs, They Are 99999 Aluminium And Palladium soo they are the best to use in this project, im now making this project and i use HDD Discs for it
I don't really know why I subscribed since I pretty much failed math in school and now at age 65 I can't remember stuff from one minute to the next. I really liked this video as I have about 250 GMs of Aluminum Oxide Powder that I use with Epoxy Resin craft making and I bought it because I saw a video of someone making a statue with Aluminum and it came out shiny like a statue should look like. Any tips on how to use this stuff in crafts?
In the case of making resin look like metal, your going to want to get bright aluminum powder, not aluminum oxide (aluminum oxide is white). Bright flake aluminum powder will make your resin look like shiny metal. Certain mica powders may also work to do the same thing
@@ElementalMaker Thank you for this information. I was wondering if I had ordered the right stuff. Have you recorded the video of the stone yet? I'm looking forward to that video since I already have part of what I need on hand.
Weirdest thing happened. I was cleaning the dish drying aluminum rack above my composite sink. Little white pieces that looked like paper towel bits, or cotton candy were scraping off and fell into the sink below. I thought they were just remnants of paper towels from previous cleanings so I didn’t pay much attention. Next morning wife found sink full of “purple brown stains”! Thank God they came off. What could have happened? How can white aluminum turn purple in a matter of hours?!
Hi, do you know if that aluminum oxide can work as a refractory material to add to cement
means: preparing alumina from the soda cans for refractory brick is going to be perfect, because we gonna get aluminum and magnesium oxides
Came back to this video after 4(!) years to suggest a revamp of this video with a nicely catchy and, most importantly, completely true, title: "Turning Soda cans into Real Rubies". I may or may not pass this around to similar channels to try and get a bite.....
I like it!
@@ElementalMaker Well, that was a snappy enough reply I guess I'll put off bugging anyone else about it!
@@drcaiius lmao! I still need to figure out how to get my purity higher from the cans, I think there is a bit too much Mg content for rubies, but I'm pretty sure I have a method around that
@@ElementalMaker I look forward to whatever you come up with!
That is an excellent way to make aluminum oxide. However, you can use strong isopropyl alcohol 91% to get that ink off next time.
I was using ammonia to get the aluminum hydroxide and when it dry was some kind interesting compounds.
Ammonia love making complexes
Maybe you got some weird stuff
I did that kind experiment, and when I put in regular glass containers with sodium hydroxide, the glass was growing inside
Did you remove the plastic liner from inside the aluminum can before melting them?
What do you mean when you say washed it 7 times? I want to try this at home but when you say you rinsed it I can't tell what you mean, you say you need to wash it I just don't get what you mean. What is the rinse you mentioned?
Soda cans are not a pure form of aluminum. The body is 3004 alloy (95.6 to 98.2% Al with the the remainder Mg, Si,Fe, Cu, Zn, Mn)) and the top is the 5182 alloy (95.2% Al and Magnesium and Manganese). A melted mix of the two alloys at best would be about 95% aluminum with a lot of other metals in your solution. If you are trying for gemstone ruby you have a shit load of impurities. Aluminum foil is more pure.
if you believe, and not tease, you could use thin resistance cable, with a power supply, to heat it and the surrounding compound to melting point
If the sodium contamination screws up your ruby synth, try just calcinating the aluminium chloride, it is impossible to make anhydrous aluminium chloride via heating as the HCl is driven off first leaving you with first Al(OH)3 then (potentially purer) alumina.
But I can see why you didn't try that first being you did it in your oven.
Great suggestion. I may have to grab a pure chunk of pure aluminum off eBay and make up some reagent grade HCl. I did actually talk about just converting the Aluminum Chloride directly during filming, but edited that part out. I may give that a go next round if this batch is too impure.
Yup right on do as you outa and drop the base. Something like that.
hi, I would like to ask how you dried the aluminum oxide
Tbh adding water to acids is only really an issue when the acid is anhydrous or very close to it like with conc sulphuric acid.
Yessir, I've never had an issue adding water to acid. Codyslab did a video way back when, and didn't even get a violent reaction when adding water to reagent grade sulfuric.
I'm doing the same process, but I used some aluminum foil because I thought it was fairly pure, but not only did I get some carbon, but I also got a rather pink solution, I think my foil must have manganese in it lol
That’s probably not carbon but iron contamination. It just takes a minute amount of iron to cause that.
If the filtered solution is pink add the Na2CO3 and digest the solution at near boiling for about 10-15 minutes. That should precipitate any left over impurities. Filter it while still hot, then let cool before precipitating.
It's from the liner inside the cans the carbon
How and howhigh/long did you calcinate the aluminium hydroxide ?
Everywhere it says about 1000°C (that's to form the alpha-alumina, gamma alumina occurs at 400/600°C).
I guess even it is not fully (or not at all) converted to Al2O3, it will be in the final ruby burn :D
Is it possible to convert Alumina Oxide into pure Aluminium Ingot?
“Aluminum Ejaculate” 😂💀💀
if i have an aluminum flashlight that has been corroded through, is the resulting white substance aluminum oxide?
Wouldn't the plastic lining inside😮 the can be carbon-based?
Hi I was given a small sample of this free flowing calcined alumina sub-micron powder.
I need help on Suspending Submicron Calcined alumina powder. What do i use as a liquid carrier to disperse this powder onto my polishing substrates? I am not using this in a wet/slurry while polishing - I am only using this carrier to disperse it onto my substrate, and then let it dry and then use it to polish because it's slightly absorbed into my polishing substrates. I have read all kinds of things, some say to mix with pure ethanol, some say DI/distilled water, and while others say it needs acidic environment. I really don't know?
I am just not sure what the liquids ph needs to be for this powder to be stable in, and what is best to keep agglomeration at bay, or to keep the particles from absorbing to much if the moisture ect. My test run I put into a 18ml bottle, ethanol and 0.30g of sub-micron 0.3 calcined alumina and I have a special fine dispersing sprayer, before this I put this in a ultrasonic to de-agglomerated and I also put two small bb's in the bottle to shake and agitate. After the 24 hours later after ultrasonic/ de-agglomerated, then further shaking/agitating after the ultrasonic it is still milky white and very little has settled to the bottom of the bottle after the 24 hours. Am I using to much powder for 18ml of liquid? Am I on the right track? I have further interest in this product, I only have a very limited sample for now, so I need to know if I am on the right track. I have further interest in your free flowing powder because I only have a very limited amount. I just need technical assistance, so I can mix this properly.
Thanks,
Mike
You should make some ferrocernium ( don’t know how to spell is lol) powder from big flint rods. I have done it with a ball mill made just for that project, and I got it and the charcoal I put in there super fine, to the point that if I mixed it with any amount of kno3 over 20% it burned nearly the speed of 70 30 perc al flash! It made some great sparklers to! I just used a steal rod to get it into mill able sizes, or until I thought it was going to catch fire. Then I got it down to about 30 mesh using mortar and pestle. It was then milled, with opining of the jar every hour after the first hour and a half. Also I mixed it with some kmno4 with the diaper method. I did this with with two sticks glued to the paper so I could mix it from five feet away. when it was almost done mixing it detonated, and made a report so loud I was surprised my ears didn’t start to bleed ( it was only a gram too!)
Man thats some scary stuff when powdered! Cant believe you were able to mill it without issues!
Wait what exactly is the aluminum oxide for? I thought the mixture was aluminum and chromium oxide.
In Canada our Al cans have a plastic lining. Hence the carbon you are seeing.
Can you use any acid, not just muratic acid?
Cans have a Plastik liner inside the cans
Im planing on making some to make pure corundum crystal to make a file. Have a good day!
Sounds like a fun project! Enjoy Robert. Check out my video on making a synthetic ruby, the back of them is quite rough with the melted aluminum oxide, bet it would make a great file.
Brother, how do you turn aluminum into synthetic rubies?
Add a contaminant to your aluminum oxyde, like 5% chrome oxyde and heat it really high.
NightHawkInLight as 2 videos on this, using arc wielder or a microwave.
Guess who work the best :P
@@Technicotop Thank you, brother. Does the thermite reaction succeed in the process?
@@user-google777 Don't know, probably hard to handle. Even the arc wielder is not a that good solution as it adds carbon to the ruby.
That carbon is probably the liner they spray into the cans to keep them from dissolving from acidic soda
I doubt there’s any carbon at all. The black precipitate gathered after filtration is probably iron contamination. Given the black color it’s probably ferric hydroxide hydrate. Most, if not all, of the carbon on an aluminum can will be oxidized as CO2 when the aluminum was melted.
can it be use for termitt?
Powdered alum for pickle making
Howdy from Arkansas
Can i do this with termite?
Good luck
Al2O3 can be used for Ceramic Coating on Cars?
That might be what they use in nano-ceramic waxes that are all the rage now adays, but this stuff is way too coarse, and would wreck a cars paint. Aluminum oxide like this is more suited to be used for sandpaper or abrasive paste.
So what’s the difference between that Aluminum Oxide and the one you use for flash powder?
Aluminum oxide is already oxidized, so it's pretty much inert. Aluminum powder is quite reactive, ready to bond with oxygen at the first chance it gets.
so when i disolve aluminum using elctrolisis what am i getting? what is that green stuff? made a few grams of it but dont know what to do with it, i used distilled water
Aluminum oxide is white. What your seeing are probably alloying element oxides, since the aluminum your using likely is an alloy and not pure aluminum.
@@ElementalMaker ok thx, i still tried to mkae a semi conductor out of it...more like a 3 pole variable resistor
I saw Aluminum Hydroxide at alibaba. With a jadeite jade bangle. Its that mean we can create artificial jade with Aluminum Hydroxide? I can understand the language of china. Have u try?
There is a plastic coating on the interior of your Soda cans as well as the labels
maybe a type of magnet can gather iron from the acid
Omagad, I just tried with aluminium foil. Reaction went crazy, smell was sinister. Even my cold bath couldn't fight it. Stopped everything by putting a good amount of water.
Morality :
- 23% HCl was probably overkill.
- The reaction time seems to increase with the temperature. As it's an exothermic reaction, you see the problem.
- Aluminium foil was fold multiple time and cut in strips. At first, only a few surface was soaked in acid and nothing was happening. But soon the contact surface did get multiplied as the acid enter my aluminium "sponge".
- I obvioulsy added the aluminium it bit by bit, maybe rushed a bit because the reaction was slow to start (and probably slow to go for the whole run with my 23% HCl as I stupidly thought). I had around 2 grams in the solution at most.
- You probably wont do this at home for the smell. In fact, you probably just won't do this.
- Don't forget your protections, always think beforehand on how to react if something gets out of control. Think of anything, corrosion, explosion, gas generation ...
- React quick.
- I'm gonna buy the final product from amazon, perfectly cook, perfectly baked for less money than a new body would cost me
I don't know if the reaction was just to quick and made me anxious, but the smell was definitively unexpected. I guess I had some contaminant somewhere.
Despite my basic chemistry skills I'm quite shocked.
And I probably just had inhalated an unknow quantity of chlore into an unknown form. But I'm fine :)
Turns out I might have produced Hcl vapors.
Hcl has a low ebullition point (48°C), so if the reaction goes too fast and too hot, Hcl will probably be one of the first thing to vaporize.
I've been wondering if I could just use the dross that's left over from aloominum casting? But you DO say "of reasonably good purity".
I wonder if the product left in the filter had A LOT of unreacted aluminum. Maybe next time you do this you can see if the left overs after filtration disolves further in fresh batch of HCL
you are so uncouth... gotta love that!!
"Add whhhaaater to hacid!!" ahahah
this is what is called activated aluminum?
Is this good for flash powder?
Not being a dick here, but your really should learn the difference between aluminum oxide and aluminum powder before even thinking of making flash powder. Its very dangerous stuff and I just don't want to see you lose a hand
why would magnesium cause a pinkish hue?
I dont think the magnesium would cause the color there, but its almost certainly an impurity in my Al2O3. I may have worded that a bit shittily in the video.
The carbon residue may have come from the thin plastic layer on the inside of the can to separate it's content from the aluminum can itself.
Could you use a magnet to get rid of the trace iron powder?
Very cool idea, but unfortunately the iron concentration is so incredibly low it would be like trying to extract iron from your blood with a magnet. Technically it's possible, but I'd just need a very strong magnet
My chemistry teacher was like: What splashes more, if you throw a rock into water, or if you piss onto a rock?
You could try using an auto clave and some ruby powder ans some high grade lye
I thought I had got the wrong channel.
Besides the know how, that voice is like almost out of a western movie.
Yule Brynner or Paul Robeson have nothing on you!
Good luck!
I do not understand you, you say that you are going to make an oxide of aluminum, but you call it aluminum hydroxide several times that it is a different compound.
What are you doing ?
aluminum oxide or aluminum hydroxide?
First aluminum hydroxide was formed. Then calcined to aluminum oxide
@@ElementalMaker ok
can i use the bath you just dried to make flash powder..? love your work.
This won't work for flash powder, it's already fully oxidized.
I Made my rubys with aluminium from hard disc drives older then 2000''s
Whould it work better then soda cans because in hdd aluminium there you have platinium, rhodium and some other expensive stuff
aluminum hydroxide can't be made from a reaction with an alkali metal hydroxide?
It definitely can be made using a hydroxide, I just went this route since I have a bunch of HCl and baking soda.
Lemme tell you. Puritying sand by melting it with NaOH to make Na2SiO3, washing that out and precipitating orthosilicic acid H2SiO4. Then burning it down to SiO2 Sand and rinsing. The Orthosilicic acid slurry is pretty white and goupy
You are damn right, I made that years ago and its quite an unholy solution. LOL
Not carbon. Finely divided aluminum.
I hope it all works, but what about the Chromium ? Or it will be plain Corundum.
Got some Chromium Oxide off eBay, I show it at the end of the video, wasn't about to try making that myself with how nasty chromium compounds usually are.
There is also a thin plastic liner inside aluminum cans
I have a hard time with your explanation for all the carbon as it burns between 1200& 1400* F. Being that it would be so thin in the screening process, seems it would have easily burn off. Cheers, Billy in Canada
The cans I used were melted whole, so much of the carbon from the inner enamel liner and label was likely entombed in molten aluminum.
Woah! Good timing... I've recently amassed a big batch of Aluminium Oxide... well... dross from casting.
And have been wondering if I might be able to make "sapphire"... well, y'know.... corundum from it.
Nice! Worth giving it a shot!
Yes you can..add titanium .37 oxide iron 1 oxide aluminium upto fill 100cc.-
How do yo make chromium oxide
i think adding water to acid is only a problem if the acid is concentrated
Is aluminium oxide neurotoxic? Are you safe... have you memory problems
While would have fussed that the third hardest material know to man is made of compressed rusty soda cans.
The aluminum can inside is covered by either nylon or pet
I think NaOH its better for disolve Al