Thanks for taking the time to describe each step in detail, especially what it looks like when you're not doing it right (like if the paint gun is too close or far). Incredibly helpful for people starting out.
Very few customers have a realistic idea of the labor hours it takes to do a project like this. They usually have a dollar figure in their head that is about one fourth of reality
How would he make a RUclips channel then? O f course is better to buy one, maybe not new, no need when you can find a good used one somewhere around, guaranteed
@@alexcruz7719 No criticism of his channel, just making a general observation of amateur boat owners behaviors and tendency to far underestimate cost....nothing in that was negative to this channel or intended to be.
It's all coming together. The RUclips comment keyboard warriors (many of whom I'll guess have never restored a boat but consider themselves 'experts') don't understand that a boat is a labour of love and it's as much about the pride you feel in the work you've done and the outcome achieved.
A thorough presentation of what is included in doing a complete renovation of a fibre glass hull. Superb detail, yes, that is exactly what is required to bring the finish back to original. However, just two points, l would avoid taking the grinding back to the glass as this is porous and would require a lot of building up of filler, which leads me on to my second point - the cost of the products used in this renovation would far exceeded the value of the boat!! But heck, it’s not about values, it’s about love boating and showing what can be achieved with the right products and a hell of a lot of time. What l hate about doing a job like this is the amount of nasty dust it produces. Thumbs up buddy
To your second point, that’s what all these commenters that say just junk the boat don’t understand. It’s not a what you SHOULD do tutorial, it’s a what you COULD do. And they’re covering all the bases here, so if you have one of these things to do to your boat, you can come here and see how to do it. Though mistakes have been made… it’s still very diy friendly.
What's this? Not grind back to the glass? Not a good idea, always grind to the glass. That's how you repair fiberglass and get a good structurally strong bond especially where the inside of the boat is a structural member of whole boat. Structural parts of the boat need to be done correctly, in my book there are no exceptions for this, NONE!
You always say you’re not that good at glass work or painting, but the projects always turn out amazing to me. Great job and really interesting video series.
I have a Chrysler Tri- Hual needing repaired for couple years now - just pulled carpet and sanding floor to reseal- but need to work on the haul and repair spider cracks and dings as well. Watching your videos help with project products I’ll need
I'm almost at this step with my cat, looking forward to it but not actually looking forward to it, it's gonna be a long process but the end result is all worth it.
Hats off to a great job of getting it done. As far as costs for custom boat, go buy a newer boat in better shape then customize it. You might have hidden hack jobs under the glass, like strutural issues caused by not grinding to the glass and just glassing over gelcoat. I'm a hands on guy and would rather make sure it's done right then rely on faith of "hey it looks good so it's gotta be good" mentality. Sure you might be able to do it cheaper but this was a restore to custom job and some people will never get it.
Try not stirring your filler when you mix it. TKe application tool and scrape and Ford. Stirring causes at bubbles to get whipped in. It will see you a lot of sanding n filing
I would just use a high build primer .. I also recommend the 3m accuspray gun. Works wonders and takes seconds to clean the tips off. The tips are cheap enough to where you can just throw them away , but typically you get 3 to 4 uses out of them , the accuspray gun is so light it cuts down on fatigue on the wrist ..
If you cloud up your plastic regulator lens with acetone. You can fix it with more acetone. You put the acetone in a pop or energy drink can and make a little spout for it. Then, using a small torch on the can, you heat up the acetone to vapor and fog it under the plastic allowing the vapor to rise in front of it, and the lens looks brand new. The same method can be used on plastic headlight lenses. But with those, you have to immediately cover them with uv protector since they'll be exposed to direct sunlight a lot. There's a few videos on here of how to do it.
Unfortunately not. The voids are from the putty sticking to itself and sticking to the spreader as it slides over the surface. Imagine it as the ridges you see when you’re making a pb&j sandwich.
No need to add the wax to your fairing compound. You're just creating another round of sanding for yourself. If you insist on having the resin completely cure between applications you can spray it with PVA
You cannot be the world's worst painter! I definitely hold that title... I can rebuild an engine and not get grease and grime past my elbows. Soon as I open a can of paint... it's everywhere!
Greetings! Rose here, thanking you for your comment! While I can't provide the answer you're seeking, we prefer to handle such queries personally. That's why we've set up a channel membership for live discussions on these types of topics every week. If you're interested, just hit the "Join" button beside our channel name and we’ll be able to answer your question one-on-one! Many thanks!
Hi! This is Rose, I help Aaron with the comments, unfortunately I don’t have the answer to this specific question. But you can join his membership where you get to ask him questions and receive live answers www.youtube.com/@BornAgainBoating/membership or you can subscribe to his Podcast channel where he answers questions like this weekly. youtube.com/@TheBoatersPodcast?si=B9t3eyJAFjNyu7Dg .
I'll stick to an aluminum welded boat. So much less work, no putties, fillers, plastics,. No paint is the way to go. And when you get dents and scrapes and scratches in it. It ain't nothing but a merit badge, of heavy use, fishing hard! And Economically.
Thanks for taking the time to describe each step in detail, especially what it looks like when you're not doing it right (like if the paint gun is too close or far). Incredibly helpful for people starting out.
Very few customers have a realistic idea of the labor hours it takes to do a project like this. They usually have a dollar figure in their head that is about one fourth of reality
Even when you know , you STILL underestimate by half. Even on my own jobs
Isn't it better to buy a new hull at that point compared to the labor?
@@007rockford 🤣🤣🤣
How would he make a RUclips channel then? O f course is better to buy one, maybe not new, no need when you can find a good used one somewhere around, guaranteed
@@alexcruz7719 No criticism of his channel, just making a general observation of amateur boat owners behaviors and tendency to far underestimate cost....nothing in that was negative to this channel or intended to be.
It's all coming together. The RUclips comment keyboard warriors (many of whom I'll guess have never restored a boat but consider themselves 'experts') don't understand that a boat is a labour of love and it's as much about the pride you feel in the work you've done and the outcome achieved.
A thorough presentation of what is included in doing a complete renovation of a fibre glass hull. Superb detail, yes, that is exactly what is required to bring the finish back to original. However, just two points, l would avoid taking the grinding back to the glass as this is porous and would require a lot of building up of filler, which leads me on to my second point - the cost of the products used in this renovation would far exceeded the value of the boat!! But heck, it’s not about values, it’s about love boating and showing what can be achieved with the right products and a hell of a lot of time. What l hate about doing a job like this is the amount of nasty dust it produces. Thumbs up buddy
To your second point, that’s what all these commenters that say just junk the boat don’t understand. It’s not a what you SHOULD do tutorial, it’s a what you COULD do. And they’re covering all the bases here, so if you have one of these things to do to your boat, you can come here and see how to do it. Though mistakes have been made… it’s still very diy friendly.
What's this? Not grind back to the glass? Not a good idea, always grind to the glass. That's how you repair fiberglass and get a good structurally strong bond especially where the inside of the boat is a structural member of whole boat. Structural parts of the boat need to be done correctly, in my book there are no exceptions for this, NONE!
You always say you’re not that good at glass work or painting, but the projects always turn out amazing to me. Great job and really interesting video series.
I have a Chrysler Tri- Hual needing repaired for couple years now - just pulled carpet and sanding floor to reseal- but need to work on the haul and repair spider cracks and dings as well. Watching your videos help with project products I’ll need
I'm almost at this step with my cat, looking forward to it but not actually looking forward to it, it's gonna be a long process but the end result is all worth it.
Hats off to a great job of getting it done. As far as costs for custom boat, go buy a newer boat in better shape then customize it. You might have hidden hack jobs under the glass, like strutural issues caused by not grinding to the glass and just glassing over gelcoat. I'm a hands on guy and would rather make sure it's done right then rely on faith of "hey it looks good so it's gotta be good" mentality. Sure you might be able to do it cheaper but this was a restore to custom job and some people will never get it.
Looking good! All that hard work is paying off!! Great job!
Try not stirring your filler when you mix it. TKe application tool and scrape and Ford. Stirring causes at bubbles to get whipped in. It will see you a lot of sanding n filing
I would just use a high build primer .. I also recommend the 3m accuspray gun. Works wonders and takes seconds to clean the tips off. The tips are cheap enough to where you can just throw them away , but typically you get 3 to 4 uses out of them , the accuspray gun is so light it cuts down on fatigue on the wrist ..
Looks great ! Keep going don’t stop
If you cloud up your plastic regulator lens with acetone. You can fix it with more acetone. You put the acetone in a pop or energy drink can and make a little spout for it. Then, using a small torch on the can, you heat up the acetone to vapor and fog it under the plastic allowing the vapor to rise in front of it, and the lens looks brand new.
The same method can be used on plastic headlight lenses. But with those, you have to immediately cover them with uv protector since they'll be exposed to direct sunlight a lot. There's a few videos on here of how to do it.
18:13 you can try painting the regulator dial with clear nail polish or something similar. It may not work if the acetone penetrated.
Can you estimate how much the paint and fiberglass materials cost on this boat not including labor?
this makes me wanna buy an old boat and get to work. very cool
So much time spent! Is this profitable or is this a hobby/DIY project?
He has way more time invested than a client would be willing to pay. This is a labor of love on a personal boat.
Can you pull a vacuum on the filler before usage? Could this eliminate air bubbles? 🤔
Unfortunately not. The voids are from the putty sticking to itself and sticking to the spreader as it slides over the surface. Imagine it as the ridges you see when you’re making a pb&j sandwich.
@@SparrowMoonhaze Thanks for the reply! 👍
No need to add the wax to your fairing compound. You're just creating another round of sanding for yourself. If you insist on having the resin completely cure between applications you can spray it with PVA
Amazing work!! 👏
You cannot be the world's worst painter! I definitely hold that title... I can rebuild an engine and not get grease and grime past my elbows. Soon as I open a can of paint... it's everywhere!
Thanks for this video
Seems to be an exercise in sanding. Are you able to estimate how many hours of sanding you have into the project?
Is the Toatal Fair cost prohibitive versus the 2 application West Systems fairing compound?
Is fairing filler different than 'pookey' or just a different type of 'pookey'?
Why so many hours on this one boat? Is this a Side job that you are going to sell?
Please send me info for a gelcoat restoration guy you trust in Ft. Laud.
Guide coat would have really helped
True, guide coat is new to me now lol :) thank you!
What’s with the driving position on this boat?
It's for bully netting :)
ruclips.net/video/aEFcL6bQIjA/видео.html
Great Video to show „how not to do“🤣
good stuff
What size compressors do you need for this gun thank you
Greetings! Rose here, thanking you for your comment! While I can't provide the answer you're seeking, we prefer to handle such queries personally. That's why we've set up a channel membership for live discussions on these types of topics every week. If you're interested, just hit the "Join" button beside our channel name and we’ll be able to answer your question one-on-one! Many thanks!
"that's a little thick" hahaha
I assume this boat will be a lobster boat again. I would have whacked off that bow console and converted it to its original conformation.
@0:50 what is sander name? or equipment name?
Hi! This is Rose, I help Aaron with the comments, unfortunately I don’t have the answer to this specific question. But you can join his membership where you get to ask him questions and receive live answers www.youtube.com/@BornAgainBoating/membership or you can subscribe to his Podcast channel where he answers questions like this weekly. youtube.com/@TheBoatersPodcast?si=B9t3eyJAFjNyu7Dg
.
I'll stick to an aluminum welded boat. So much less work, no putties, fillers, plastics,. No paint is the way to go.
And when you get dents and scrapes and scratches in it. It ain't nothing but a merit badge, of heavy use, fishing hard! And Economically.
Why didn't you finish priming
He's going to gel coat the floor
Don't think it would be good if you mistake that stuff for chocolate USN
Too much sanding and filling and sanding. Remind me not to buy a fixer upper.