The first thing you should have done was scanned the code, then swapped the coil pack from #8 to another cyclinder that was easy to access. The code would have stayed on 8. You would have then known it wasn't hte coil pack. then you should have pulled the #8 plug out and evaluated it and swapped that out if it was bad. Also when you know the cycl is misfiring you should disconnect the fuel injector until you diagnose it.
I've been watching videos on these 6.2L where the ignition coil corroded and disintegrates a resistor inside the coil...just watched another on a stuck PCV valve, another on a leaky check valve in fuel pump, and debris in mass air flow sensor on the intake tube, and failing fuel pump driver module...don't forget the fuel pump relay fuse relocation kit (do this ASAP if you have an F150 with this engine, it will eventually melt)
I think you’re fine just flushing the trans every 75-100k miles. My truck has a trans temp gauge on it and even pulling 10k pounds in the summer heat I’ve not seen much above 200. Fluid isn’t going to start breaking down until like 220.
As mentioned in the video it’s not common, easy to diagnose and very cheap to fix if you do repairs yourself. Basically not worth worrying about, they are great motors lasting commonly well over 300K miles.
@@fusetroopoutdoorsmen1055 Some older 4.6L 32V modulars had this problem ( in the 90s). Similar type engine, same break. They never hurt the engine though. I have an extra one in the glove compartment in a Ford bag, never used it :lol: hope never to. I used a rope to do it.
@@motorcycle1650 Don't see your rope question but you take out a plug, rotate engine until the piston is at the bottom, push thick rope in (say 3/4 diameter of the cyl hole), when you can't get anymore in start to to turn the crank with a breaker a tiny bit to snug it up (do not force anything). Now the valve is held in place and you can remove the keepers and spring. You may need a special tool to pivot the valve. I did mine on a 32V 4.6L 4V, 3V may have its own special tool. The 4V has different tools for intake an exhaust. 2V uses one of those tools for both. I don't know about the 3V.
Just the knowledge can save you a lot of money. Any local shop is capable to make this repair for half the dealer cost. It’s also very doable on your own and the parts are very cheap!
I had a multiple misfire, cyl 4 and 7 misfire. Ran fine, would only trigger CEL under a load. Did plugs, wires, had the injectors tested and cleaned. Ended up having to do a "misfire monitor neutral profile correction" relearn.
@@brandonmarcelogonzalez7689 I called around to locally-owned, non franchise/non chain shops until I found someone that would do the relearn only, without charging me for diagnostic time. Ended up paying $100. The relearn takes 90 seconds at most. The dealership can also take care of it if you want to pay more and wait longer.
@@jackweisenburger I sent one of my employees, I’m not sure what diagnostic tool was used but I think it was a higher end snap-on. Regardless, I’m sure there were active codes during the relearn. I would try clearing the codes then doing the relearn, if you are not able to clear the active miss fire codes during engine off diagnostics you may have another problem.
This is exactly whats happening with mine ….. changed plugs but didnt help ….. cant find a vacuum leak ….. ill try this next Same it was like a switch i gave it a little gas at a red light and bam truck started to shake like crazy 2014 f250 6.2 200k miles ill update if it works for me too
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The first thing you should have done was scanned the code, then swapped the coil pack from #8 to another cyclinder that was easy to access. The code would have stayed on 8. You would have then known it wasn't hte coil pack. then you should have pulled the #8 plug out and evaluated it and swapped that out if it was bad. Also when you know the cycl is misfiring you should disconnect the fuel injector until you diagnose it.
I've been watching videos on these 6.2L where the ignition coil corroded and disintegrates a resistor inside the coil...just watched another on a stuck PCV valve, another on a leaky check valve in fuel pump, and debris in mass air flow sensor on the intake tube, and failing fuel pump driver module...don't forget the fuel pump relay fuse relocation kit (do this ASAP if you have an F150 with this engine, it will eventually melt)
You better update that transmission cooler... thank you for posting.
why should you upgrade the trans cooler is it known to be small ?
I think you’re fine just flushing the trans every 75-100k miles. My truck has a trans temp gauge on it and even pulling 10k pounds in the summer heat I’ve not seen much above 200. Fluid isn’t going to start breaking down until like 220.
I have this same truck in a 2014, hope mine doesn’t break a valve spring...
As mentioned in the video it’s not common, easy to diagnose and very cheap to fix if you do repairs yourself. Basically not worth worrying about, they are great motors lasting commonly well over 300K miles.
@@fusetroopoutdoorsmen1055 Some older 4.6L 32V modulars had this problem ( in the 90s). Similar type engine, same break. They never hurt the engine though. I have an extra one in the glove compartment in a Ford bag, never used it :lol: hope never to. I used a rope to do it.
Yeah my 6.2 is missing on 4 cyclinders .I'll check valve springs .thanks for video
I’m having the same problem if you figure it out can you tell me
Broken valve springs.these truck are notorious for tgis
Thanks a Lot For Sharing !! Your Video Is Really Helpful ...
Hello what engine code when cylinder was not active ?
Broke 4 springs now. Put 16 new ones in. And guess what another broken spring
was the last one under warranty? how much did all that cost?
@@motorcycle1650 no warranty on any of them
@@motorcycle1650 the springs are cheap. Labor is the expense unless you do it yourself like I did
@@motorcycle1650 Don't see your rope question but you take out a plug, rotate engine until the piston is at the bottom, push thick rope in (say 3/4 diameter of the cyl hole), when you can't get anymore in start to to turn the crank with a breaker a tiny bit to snug it up (do not force anything). Now the valve is held in place and you can remove the keepers and spring. You may need a special tool to pivot the valve. I did mine on a 32V 4.6L 4V, 3V may have its own special tool. The 4V has different tools for intake an exhaust. 2V uses one of those tools for both. I don't know about the 3V.
Damn
I have the same problem to in my f250 6.2l xl 2012 to number broke spring valve bend valve guide bushing broke every thing in number 8 broken
English much?
Wish I saw this video before I brought it to the dealer...
Just the knowledge can save you a lot of money. Any local shop is capable to make this repair for half the dealer cost. It’s also very doable on your own and the parts are very cheap!
So are we talking misfires or shocks?
I had a multiple misfire, cyl 4 and 7 misfire. Ran fine, would only trigger CEL under a load. Did plugs, wires, had the injectors tested and cleaned. Ended up having to do a "misfire monitor neutral profile correction" relearn.
i have the same problem, what did you do to correct exactly, thank you very much!
@@brandonmarcelogonzalez7689 I called around to locally-owned, non franchise/non chain shops until I found someone that would do the relearn only, without charging me for diagnostic time. Ended up paying $100. The relearn takes 90 seconds at most. The dealership can also take care of it if you want to pay more and wait longer.
How did you do the relearn with an active misfire? My scan tool has the ability but says not to perform if there are active codes
@@jackweisenburger I sent one of my employees, I’m not sure what diagnostic tool was used but I think it was a higher end snap-on. Regardless, I’m sure there were active codes during the relearn. I would try clearing the codes then doing the relearn, if you are not able to clear the active miss fire codes during engine off diagnostics you may have another problem.
It took 3 minutes to say "I changed the spark plugs" :(
You can’t put motor a top dead center and pressurize the cylinder the air will push the piston down to bottom
You could stick to the point and get to the problem faster
This is exactly whats happening with mine ….. changed plugs but didnt help ….. cant find a vacuum leak ….. ill try this next
Same it was like a switch i gave it a little gas at a red light and bam truck started to shake like crazy
2014 f250 6.2 200k miles ill update if it works for me too
Was it your problem?
120k miles and never changed the plugs… 🤦🏻♂️
I just bought a 2019 with 170k factory plugs just changed them most had over .1 or more gap
Disagree with using anti-seize on plugs.. all plug manufacturers tell you that is a no-no
Ford says to
Waisted time sound talk