Mine used to also do this with 550s and a cam. Sometimes it would start fine other times it would take a few extra cranks of the engine. Once I swapped to a Link ecu I didn’t have those issues.
@ yes mine was the same with the Bytetronik map on the stock ECU. No rhyme or reason to it just a quirk it never bothered me too much. Guessing it’s to do with the crank enrichment depending on where the engine stops before/after TDC.
Man you are not alone with this problem. I've been chasing the same issue since the last 2 yrs changing a lot of stuff with OEM parts but nothing to do thill now.
I’ve got a bit of an update on next weeks video, but I think our cases are slightly different (unless you’ve had an ECU map). I’ve had a few more suggestions but I’ll discuss them next week. 😂
I had this same issue this summer with my 2008 R52S with dealer installed JCW kit with 85,000 miles. My tech went thru the same procedures (except for swapping the ECU -- mine has an OEM ECU). Still had the same slow start after all the swapping of parts that you just swapped (all with MINI OEM), just maybe slightly better. Until we replaced the whole fuel pump and filter assembly with new MINI OEM -- now it starts like new with a quick fire. (Fuel filter had been replaced previously a few years prior, so it was not the original filter.) I had read some forums talking about pump replacement as a solution, so I had my tech swap it out even though the pump technically met the testing parameters within spec. My assumption was that perhaps 16 years and 85,000 miles of summer driving (including some very hot temps in the US southwest and midwest this year) was probably enough for this old pump. Replacing a 16 year old electric pump didn't seem like an unreasonable thing to do. Has made a tremendous difference.
Thanks, it’s definitely one to keep in mind. I think the next step is probably to go back to where it was mapped and get them to have a look and see if they can tweak it a bit. Maybe worth sticking a new pump in ahead of that so it can be remapped but with everything updated.
@@ThorMotorWerks The tech recommended replacing the entire assembly (instead of just the pump) as it includes all the hoses and misc pieces and parts that cannot be ordered separately. Since the whole mess was 16 years old, it made sense to me to replace it all. We did have issues afterwards ensuring both floats worked freely. One got caught up and didn't swing free which then messed up the computer's calculation of fuel level. So that is something to pay very close attention to as you re-assemble. The tech kept having to take it apart and reassemble before he realized what was going on with the float -- and in doing so tore the rubber gasket and had to replace it. Love your work on the first gens -- helps me to better understand how these cars work and are assembled. Plus helps me to better visualize where the various components reside and what to be on the lookout for when I am talking with my tech.
Many thanks for your offer of advice, you mentioned in tonight's video you have fitted 550 injectors - does the car require remapping after fitting, Also would the car require remapping if you upgrade the cam? What spark plugs do you recommend ? Fault finding is a skill all on its own ! Always good to learn & know - You can, teach old dogs new tricks! I'd be very interested in seeing a video of all the work/ mods and upgrades you have done on your own car, including any problems encountered, recommendation's including parts. Your car, BRG is a great colour for mini's, the engine purrs as a performance engine should.
Thanks for the comments, and the comments on the community tab. In answer to your questions - 550cc will definitely need mapping in properly, the car will overfuel without mapping in correctly and it will definitely have really poor fuel economy. In terms of spark plugs it depends on what you are currently running on your engine - 15% Pulley benefits from the 7s that were originally in the car, I am currently using the BCR8ES which is a cooler plug but mainly because they were pretty cheap at the time and they run absolutely fine - if you have a 17% Pulley they would be ideal, but I have used the Bosch equivalent before which I think are FR5DTC plugs - These use a copper core so will need to be replaced approximately 10-12k miles but again they are cost effective as an option. And great to hear you're interested in a bit of a background on the BRG - I'll definitely get round to doing something at some point. Especially as winter is hitting so outside content will probably slow down a bit until it starts to warm up 🤣
There are a few K20 Honda Engines in R53 Shells and I’ve also seen the VAG 1.8T in one as well. The W11 engine is capable of around 350bhp in its stock form, 1320 do a turbo kit that bolts on to the existing engine without requiring internal upgrades 👍
I did a search for your scanner on the Autel coverage list and it seems to not list the mini r53, however yours is clearly running version "mini v18"... I have a little oto fix and it refuses to connect... but its basically an autel, worried if I get the Autel mk808BT it wont scan it as its not in the list, but yours is clearly up dated
@@EnemyDwarf-TTV Mini R50 / 52 & 53 all use the same platform I’ve not seen the coverage list but it’s definitely working ok. Mine isn’t updated either. It’s been out of updates for the last 2 years. Next time I’m using it I’ll have a look. 😂
Are you running stock crank pulley? Reason I am asking is that my R53 mini also had similar problem when starting up.Then eventual the rubber sheared off inside the pulley putting my car in limp mode. When I replaced the crank pulley the car started first time.
@@romaan843 I’m running the ATI Super Damper. I think I’ve got to the bottom of it, I’m just waiting for a break in weather to give it a go - So stay tuned 👍
I couldn't see any part numbers on it, and previously I would tuck it in the front crash bar, but it's definitely a good idea. Maybe If no numbers are available, might be able to see if someone can scan this one and maybe do something 3D Printed. This is one of the only ones I have that has the extra bracket on it, and it's definitely where it sits. Thanks for subscribing as well :)
@@ThorMotorWerks - I did a quick search of REALOEM website and could not find any reference to the clip. Maybe a more thorough search of various models and years might reveal a part number. Or perhaps it is included in the front bumper cover assembly without an individual part number. Hopefully a MINI body shop tech is out there who will see this and offer some insight.
Are you sure it’s not battery related. Sounds like it’s not giving it the kick it’s needed to fire up quickly and taking an extra couple of seconds to crack then fire
@@Fourwheeledfarming I did charge the battery and it’s not that unfortunately, I know it sounds like it’s struggling a bit, and the reason I’ve gone through the lot in this video is because I didn’t want a sensor to be on the way out and leave me stranded. I’ve worked out what is needed I think, but that’s a task for next year I think 😂
I must be missing something.you seem to think there’s a starting problem.Then all motors I’ve had must be crap..turn key car starts! Er er my brain hurts😊
Compare the starting with ECU swapped and then you’ll see the difference. On occasions it won’t start on first key turn takes a couple of attempts. Hopefully that clarifies it for you.
![$3K to Build a JCW Killer? - '23 Mini Cooper S, Pt.2 [Extended Cut]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qej5SCK3DeI/mqdefault.jpg)
Watching rest of video the next day and you are such a perfectionist👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧
Trust me,your subscribers will rise,great videos🙏🙏👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🍺🍺
@@davidrix804 Thanks 👍
Mine used to also do this with 550s and a cam. Sometimes it would start fine other times it would take a few extra cranks of the engine. Once I swapped to a Link ecu I didn’t have those issues.
@@Stants714 Yeah this is a Bytetronik map. I’ll see how it goes in new year. For now I’ve got a solution 👀😂
@ yes mine was the same with the Bytetronik map on the stock ECU. No rhyme or reason to it just a quirk it never bothered me too much. Guessing it’s to do with the crank enrichment depending on where the engine stops before/after TDC.
Man you are not alone with this problem. I've been chasing the same issue since the last 2 yrs changing a lot of stuff with OEM parts but nothing to do thill now.
I’ve got a bit of an update on next weeks video, but I think our cases are slightly different (unless you’ve had an ECU map).
I’ve had a few more suggestions but I’ll discuss them next week. 😂
@ I’ve had an ECU map
@ Could be useful then - I’ll update on next video 👍
I had this same issue this summer with my 2008 R52S with dealer installed JCW kit with 85,000 miles. My tech went thru the same procedures (except for swapping the ECU -- mine has an OEM ECU). Still had the same slow start after all the swapping of parts that you just swapped (all with MINI OEM), just maybe slightly better. Until we replaced the whole fuel pump and filter assembly with new MINI OEM -- now it starts like new with a quick fire. (Fuel filter had been replaced previously a few years prior, so it was not the original filter.)
I had read some forums talking about pump replacement as a solution, so I had my tech swap it out even though the pump technically met the testing parameters within spec. My assumption was that perhaps 16 years and 85,000 miles of summer driving (including some very hot temps in the US southwest and midwest this year) was probably enough for this old pump. Replacing a 16 year old electric pump didn't seem like an unreasonable thing to do. Has made a tremendous difference.
Thanks, it’s definitely one to keep in mind. I think the next step is probably to go back to where it was mapped and get them to have a look and see if they can tweak it a bit. Maybe worth sticking a new pump in ahead of that so it can be remapped but with everything updated.
@@ThorMotorWerks The tech recommended replacing the entire assembly (instead of just the pump) as it includes all the hoses and misc pieces and parts that cannot be ordered separately. Since the whole mess was 16 years old, it made sense to me to replace it all.
We did have issues afterwards ensuring both floats worked freely. One got caught up and didn't swing free which then messed up the computer's calculation of fuel level. So that is something to pay very close attention to as you re-assemble.
The tech kept having to take it apart and reassemble before he realized what was going on with the float -- and in doing so tore the rubber gasket and had to replace it.
Love your work on the first gens -- helps me to better understand how these cars work and are assembled. Plus helps me to better visualize where the various components reside and what to be on the lookout for when I am talking with my tech.
Many thanks for your offer of advice, you mentioned in tonight's video you have fitted 550 injectors - does the car require remapping after fitting, Also would the car require remapping if you upgrade the cam?
What spark plugs do you recommend ?
Fault finding is a skill all on its own ! Always good to learn & know - You can, teach old dogs new tricks!
I'd be very interested in seeing a video of all the work/ mods and upgrades you have done on your own car, including any problems encountered, recommendation's including parts.
Your car, BRG is a great colour for mini's, the engine purrs as a performance engine should.
Thanks for the comments, and the comments on the community tab.
In answer to your questions - 550cc will definitely need mapping in properly, the car will overfuel without mapping in correctly and it will definitely have really poor fuel economy. In terms of spark plugs it depends on what you are currently running on your engine - 15% Pulley benefits from the 7s that were originally in the car, I am currently using the BCR8ES which is a cooler plug but mainly because they were pretty cheap at the time and they run absolutely fine - if you have a 17% Pulley they would be ideal, but I have used the Bosch equivalent before which I think are FR5DTC plugs - These use a copper core so will need to be replaced approximately 10-12k miles but again they are cost effective as an option.
And great to hear you're interested in a bit of a background on the BRG - I'll definitely get round to doing something at some point. Especially as winter is hitting so outside content will probably slow down a bit until it starts to warm up 🤣
Thanks for the very valuable information, I now know my way forward. Look forward to seeing your next video. Cheers
Just wondering if someone has fitted a different engine in these models,such as a Japanese engine and would it fit and work🤔?🙏🙏🇬🇧🇬🇧
There are a few K20 Honda Engines in R53 Shells and I’ve also seen the VAG 1.8T in one as well.
The W11 engine is capable of around 350bhp in its stock form, 1320 do a turbo kit that bolts on to the existing engine without requiring internal upgrades 👍
I did a search for your scanner on the Autel coverage list and it seems to not list the mini r53, however yours is clearly running version "mini v18"... I have a little oto fix and it refuses to connect... but its basically an autel, worried if I get the Autel mk808BT it wont scan it as its not in the list, but yours is clearly up dated
@@EnemyDwarf-TTV Mini R50 / 52 & 53 all use the same platform I’ve not seen the coverage list but it’s definitely working ok. Mine isn’t updated either. It’s been out of updates for the last 2 years.
Next time I’m using it I’ll have a look. 😂
@@ThorMotorWerks Thanks mate!
Are you running stock crank pulley? Reason I am asking is that my R53 mini also had similar problem when starting up.Then eventual the rubber sheared off inside the pulley putting my car in limp mode. When I replaced the crank pulley the car started first time.
@@romaan843 I’m running the ATI Super Damper. I think I’ve got to the bottom of it, I’m just waiting for a break in weather to give it a go - So stay tuned 👍
I would like to know the code of the external temperature sensor clip for the jcw bumper or a way to be able to purchase it.
I couldn't see any part numbers on it, and previously I would tuck it in the front crash bar, but it's definitely a good idea. Maybe If no numbers are available, might be able to see if someone can scan this one and maybe do something 3D Printed. This is one of the only ones I have that has the extra bracket on it, and it's definitely where it sits.
Thanks for subscribing as well :)
@@ThorMotorWerks - I did a quick search of REALOEM website and could not find any reference to the clip. Maybe a more thorough search of various models and years might reveal a part number. Or perhaps it is included in the front bumper cover assembly without an individual part number.
Hopefully a MINI body shop tech is out there who will see this and offer some insight.
Are you sure it’s not battery related. Sounds like it’s not giving it the kick it’s needed to fire up quickly and taking an extra couple of seconds to crack then fire
@@Fourwheeledfarming I did charge the battery and it’s not that unfortunately, I know it sounds like it’s struggling a bit, and the reason I’ve gone through the lot in this video is because I didn’t want a sensor to be on the way out and leave me stranded.
I’ve worked out what is needed I think, but that’s a task for next year I think 😂
I must be missing something.you seem to think there’s a starting problem.Then all motors I’ve had must be crap..turn key car starts! Er er my brain hurts😊
Compare the starting with ECU swapped and then you’ll see the difference. On occasions it won’t start on first key turn takes a couple of attempts.
Hopefully that clarifies it for you.