Great video, super helpful (and cheap!) Tip I learned: I had a pretty seized drive side wheel bearing that was not coming out with the hammer & bolt method (was whacking it pretty hard). In fear of damaging my wheel/hub/spokes, I ended up reverse pressing it out using a bolt, washers, plumbing fittings, etc & worked like a charm. Hope this helps someone else w/ a similar issue. Cheers!
Great vid Steve, I have been using a similar bolt and threaded bar DIY tool for decades. But I would say I did purchase the correct bearing drift for my free hub bearings. I was never really keen on the possibility of warping a washer and putting strain on the ceramic bearing inner race. The drift costs about 10 bucks and is basically a fat precisely sized washer, worth it for the peace of mind.
Awesome resource for DIY mechanics. The freehub body I was servicing has a slightly different design - the "aperture" for the pressed-in side was too tight to accommodate this method - BUT Oz's approach gave me some ideas for getting the bearings out. Thanks!
Another excellent vid Oz, just been doing my older basic style freehub which rotate on loose bearings inside, 2 rings of 25 x 1/8th bearings. Needed special but cheap tool with 2 square teeth 180 degrees apart, needed to remove bearing cup race from inside freehub body (it is the race for the axle bearings) which opens the freehub and it screws off / separates the fh body from the threaded bolt that screws into the wheel hub, which needed an 11mm hex on a Giant wheel/freehub or a 12mm hex for a Formula fhub. Pawls were inside the fh body on mine and grease makes the pawls stick. Cleaned it all up and used a small amount of grease to mount the new base bearings but otherwise just some bearing oil for the everything else. I found that if the "service" works then it's worth doing, but if the freehub remains noisy then it wasn't worth doing it, as those basic freehubs are cheap as. Anyhow really enjoy your work, thanks for the vids.
I been watching your video's for some time And find you are really good at explaining thing along with yousing basic tools and fittings . I love your ease of approch to complected repairs. Excellent videos . Crooky south Wales UK
THANKYOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR VIDEOS . YOU ARE INCREDIBLE, SO MUCH KNOWLEGE AND HACKS.... YOU MAKE THINGS SO EASY. GREETINGS FROM SWEDEN . WILL FOLLOW YOUR COMMING VIDEOS .CHEERS
Great video and it's the same hub type on Vision Trimax wheels, Just stripped my freewheel to replace both bearings. Just one comment though on the pawls, I prefer using light oil versus grease as the pawls tend to stick to the grease and are not quite as "springy".
I have one addition to this very well made video and that is that i used a fully threaded rod of a meter that I cut into individual pieces of 25cm. Using that you never run out of thread
Yeah I have a shimano hub that's older and has those cone nuts they're impossible to find but I found some. Wish there was a way to convert to sealed bearings without replacing the whole hub but it is what it is. Thanks for the video very useful.
Madman, savage. No actually I appreciate the video. Shows you can rig up something with enough effort. I use mostly the official drifts and bushings for my Hope hubs, but I could use that black plumbing piece for supporting the freehub while removing the bearings.
nice video steve, would like to ask regarding Campagnolo ultra torque BB cups, the campy tool UTBB140 seem to press the cups on the inside of the cup(where the bearing sits) your tool presses on the body of the cup(the outside part, is this ok in your opinion? Just concerned about crushing the cup, because it is quite thin at that part. Cheers mate thanks for your reply.
Thanks of your advice! I had removed all nuts on both sides. There is screw cap on disc side that can't be removed after several attempt. While on the drive side, I can see the outer bearing in the free hub. Will it be the next step to tap out the screw cap and or bearing seated on disc side from the drive side ?
Great video's Steve, have extracted and pressed new bearings into the wheel... just tried to insert the axle into the new bearings and it will not slide in but, tried the axle in the old bearings and it won't slide in these either ? Any ideas? should I be looking to tap it in with a bit of wood and a hammer?
Very good video, thank you for sharing your knowledge! I wonder how to extract 2 bearings (6902 type) from Novatec 482SB 4 pawl freehub without damaging a freehub body / parts.
Thanks but where Can we get some new bearings for old hubs and my seal didn’t look like yours it appears to be machined aluminium lip and I can’t push the bearings out. Will try again.
Hi Oz, I live in Vietnam and I have looked everywhere for the dynabolt like yours, I can get an expansion bolt that I think will work my MTB, bearing inner size is 17mm so will 10mm expansion bolt be big enough to grab the bearing, many thanks.
Great video, as usual ! I wonder if there is a way to repair or prevent those bites on the freehub made from cassettes sprockets. I saw some have a hard metal protecting it, but are a renowned ones. Thank you !
+Alvaro Federico Good question. Usually the freehub will last longer than the rim braking surface so doesnt matter anyhow. Will keep my eyes n ears open for good solution tho :)
This guy uses two flattened out steel staples and wedges them between the splines and cassettes. I was thinking of doing this to get more life out my nice SRAM hubs as I was going to put some Chinese carbon rims on them once the ALU rims have worn out. I would love to see Oz Cycle to do your own version of this fix. Annoyingly my novatec hubs on another set of wheels already come with an ABG (Anti bite guard) installed on the freehub ruclips.net/video/PCIe9fgFDTA/видео.html
@@richardggeorge one of my freehubs (bitex) has built in steel splines to prevent the soft aluminum bite. Shimano freehubs tend to simply be made of steel, preventing this issue entirely.
That c-clip in the freehub was in a purpose groove, so I do not understand how was it possible to push the bearing out so far, without breaking something. I'm pretty sure it was just pure luck and for most people watching this, it won't actually work. What is needed is blind hole bearing extractor and that is expensive tool. Freehubs are made this way on purpose so we can not service them without the proper tool mention which apart from Ali is extortionatelly expensive. And the ones from Ali are often single use if that.
good afternoon, very good your videos, do you have any tutorial on how to disassemble that hub where you change the bearings? is that I have some of the same and I do not know how to disassemble them to be able to change the bearings, thanks and greetings from Panama
Great stuff Oz! How do you determine the type and size of bearings if they need replacement? Also could you suggest locations where to source them from? Thank you in advance.
+Ron MacNeil Good question Ron.1/Measure outside diameter of entire bearing. 2/Measure inside diameter of inner race. 3/Measure width of the sealed bearing. With these three measurements you can buy your new bearings. Ebay will sell. In Australia I buy"Plaig bearings".
you should also note if there is a chamfer (angle) to the outside of the races. Not many have it (a tange headset does) but it's likely to be 45 degrees. bearing specs are often listed ID / OD / width . Google is your friend!!
Finally! Im been looking for a way to remove the freehub bearings, all the bearings of my carbon wheels are rusty now.. thanks sir Mabuhay! From phillipines...
Pressing bearings is simple if you follow this guide. My only question is about feel and how much pressure the outer freehub bearing required against the spacer tube. Too much preload make for a stiff free hub.
The spacer is straight A’s the axle went through just fine. Perhaps it’s the new grease that’s made them stiff. Good video though. Even Novatech don’t have the job you tackled on RUclips.
Do you why a freehub body like the one in this video would allow a cassette to vibrate? I found play in the freehub body. Is that just the bearings shot? Thanks 😊
Great video but please remover the seals from the Outer race, not the inner part of the seal. The inner part of the seal is damagged verry quickly. What grease was that?
Any tips on how to put the grease in a syringe? I've had too much air as a problem if I just try to skoop it in. Pushing it out is not too easy and results in discontinuous stream of grease once it is being used.
+hoggif I just squash it in from the tip towards the top, making sure any air is pushed out. Takes a while but the grease lasts a long time anyhow so its worth the effort. Cheers
Hey! Cut the syringe in 1/3 portions. The push part should be bigger. Then push the bigger part inti a grease container then join the two prts by arubber hose thats just press fit to join the two. Hope this helps
the cost of a press is often the same as paying a lbs to work on the hubs, so buying the press makes sense, also not everyone has a workshop or time to experiment like oz
+mikieson Dont forget there are lots of bike enthusiasts who live in not so well of countries...ie...India , who can source a bolt n washers to do this but the actual tool is out of their reach moneywise.
Hi sir, what if the bearing is already damage, in my case the freehub body sealed bearing already spread out. The outer core of the bearing is stock on the freehub body. Is there a way to remove the outer core of the bearing from the freehub body
Καλημέρα από Ελλάδα. Κανένα συνεργείο δεν ασχολείται με τέτοιες λεπτομερείς εργασίες. Εχω κέντρα DT SWISS 240s και όταν τους λέω για service μου αναφέρουν ότι είναι κλειστού τύπου. Θέλουν να πωλούν ποδήλατα για εύκολο κέρδος.
Hi mr.oz cycle, I plan to replace my novatec F172SB hub. But I don't know what type of bearings and how many bearings its use. What type of bearing on Novatec F172SB will use?
I find that the grooves on my freehub get pretty chewed up, so that even if I could clean/replace the bearings there’s not much point. Anybody have a cure for not having the cassette eat into the freehub?
Rixter always be sure to tighten the cassette to the correct torque setting most are around 40Nm. which is surprisingly tight but will help to hold the cassette as one and stop it chewing up the freehub.
Made my freehub body unusable, since the inner bearing fell apart when "unmounting" this way, and just the outer race of the bearing remained in-place, deep in the freehub body, incapable to be removed.
Since most the freehubs are alu now you should just replace the entire freehub that comes with new bearings. Rinse repeat. Servicing those bearings is just too fiddly.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks very much for putting this detailed content together. Champion effort.
Out of all the bike repair videos on RUclips, I find this channel to be the most useful. Thank you.
Thanks for the inspiration. I live in rural Thailand - knocked up a bearing press and puller out of bolts, washers and irrigation parts today.
Great video, super helpful (and cheap!)
Tip I learned: I had a pretty seized drive side wheel bearing that was not coming out with the hammer & bolt method (was whacking it pretty hard). In fear of damaging my wheel/hub/spokes, I ended up reverse pressing it out using a bolt, washers, plumbing fittings, etc & worked like a charm. Hope this helps someone else w/ a similar issue. Cheers!
Excellent video once again Steve. Clear, concise, well shot and great explanations and diagrams of your whole method. Cheers mate.
Great vid Steve, I have been using a similar bolt and threaded bar DIY tool for decades. But I would say I did purchase the correct bearing drift for my free hub bearings. I was never really keen on the possibility of warping a washer and putting strain on the ceramic bearing inner race. The drift costs about 10 bucks and is basically a fat precisely sized washer, worth it for the peace of mind.
Awesome resource for DIY mechanics. The freehub body I was servicing has a slightly different design - the "aperture" for the pressed-in side was too tight to accommodate this method - BUT Oz's approach gave me some ideas for getting the bearings out. Thanks!
Another excellent vid Oz, just been doing my older basic style freehub which rotate on loose bearings inside, 2 rings of 25 x 1/8th bearings.
Needed special but cheap tool with 2 square teeth 180 degrees apart, needed to remove bearing cup race from inside freehub body (it is the race for the axle bearings) which opens the freehub and it screws off / separates the fh body from the threaded bolt that screws into the wheel hub, which needed an 11mm hex on a Giant wheel/freehub or a 12mm hex for a Formula fhub.
Pawls were inside the fh body on mine and grease makes the pawls stick. Cleaned it all up and used a small amount of grease to mount the new base bearings but otherwise just some bearing oil for the everything else.
I found that if the "service" works then it's worth doing, but if the freehub remains noisy then it wasn't worth doing it, as those basic freehubs are cheap as.
Anyhow really enjoy your work, thanks for the vids.
Jesteś dobrem narodowym amatorskiego świata serwisowego. Uwielbiam Twoje filmy ..jakiekolwiek. Pozdrawiam
Excellent. I use a light weight synthetic motor oil on the paws and on the inside.
I agree, grease can make the pawls stick. light oil seems a better choice.
I been watching your video's for some time And find you are really good at explaining thing along with yousing basic tools and fittings . I love your ease of approch to complected repairs. Excellent videos . Crooky south Wales UK
Thanks for that very helpful when so many other videos were useless!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
THANKYOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR VIDEOS .
YOU ARE INCREDIBLE, SO MUCH KNOWLEGE AND HACKS.... YOU MAKE THINGS SO EASY.
GREETINGS FROM SWEDEN .
WILL FOLLOW YOUR COMMING VIDEOS .CHEERS
'BEAUT MATE'
GOOD to see I'm not the only practical person.
An appreciative Pommy B******
Raptor Rob 👍
Great video and it's the same hub type on Vision Trimax wheels, Just stripped my freewheel to replace both bearings. Just one comment though on the pawls, I prefer using light oil versus grease as the pawls tend to stick to the grease and are not quite as "springy".
Thanks for showing the way with bolts and washers with out special tools.
I have one addition to this very well made video and that is that i used a fully threaded rod of a meter that I cut into individual pieces of 25cm. Using that you never run out of thread
Thank for all video and your great work i use for lubricate the bearings Tri Flow oil and work 100% great
Yeah I have a shimano hub that's older and has those cone nuts they're impossible to find but I found some. Wish there was a way to convert to sealed bearings without replacing
the whole hub but it is what it is. Thanks for the video very useful.
Excellent video. I find that by the time my bearings are rough, the splines on my freehub are all chewed up and end of life.
Great made clip! Very informative and Oz do it so well that even for me who are not good in English very easy understand him.
+Petinka Im glad you can understand the vid Petinka. Is it the illustrations that help?
Yes they help much and especially your illustrations about home made special tools. They are so smart and we bikers save much money.
Madman, savage. No actually I appreciate the video. Shows you can rig up something with enough effort. I use mostly the official drifts and bushings for my Hope hubs, but I could use that black plumbing piece for supporting the freehub while removing the bearings.
nice video steve, would like to ask regarding Campagnolo ultra torque BB cups, the campy tool UTBB140 seem to press the cups on the inside of the cup(where the bearing sits) your tool presses on the body of the cup(the outside part, is this ok in your opinion? Just concerned about crushing the cup, because it is quite thin at that part. Cheers mate thanks for your reply.
The genuine tool should work ok, but yes it doesn't sound right where it presses...might have to look into that
Thats a good detailed video Mr Oz..thanks!!
verry good job. Merci beaucoup.
Thanks of your advice! I had removed all nuts on both sides. There is screw cap on disc side that can't be removed after several attempt. While on the drive side, I can see the outer bearing in the free hub. Will it be the next step to tap out the screw cap and or bearing seated on disc side from the drive side ?
Yup, sounds about right
U'r D.I.Y MONSTER Steve, all good to U bro :)
Great video's Steve, have extracted and pressed new bearings into the wheel... just tried to insert the axle into the new bearings and it will not slide in but, tried the axle in the old bearings and it won't slide in these either ? Any ideas? should I be looking to tap it in with a bit of wood and a hammer?
Yes you can tap the axle in but if it is too tight the bearings want spin freely. Check with hub manufacturer for correct bearing size
Great video. Very nformative. But, why not replace the whole freehub (incl. the bearings)?
Nice.....
Informative.......
Matursuwon pak
Very good video, thank you for sharing your knowledge! I wonder how to extract 2 bearings (6902 type) from Novatec 482SB 4 pawl freehub without damaging a freehub body / parts.
Thanks but where Can we get some new bearings for old hubs and my seal didn’t look like yours it appears to be machined aluminium lip and I can’t push the bearings out. Will try again.
You are so good at this, ty
Lucky you that you don't have to use the "special tool" to remove the inner "ratchet" like on some DT Swiss wheels.
OZ,
Couple of questions, one what is the grease your using, and two how long do you typically leave parts in your parts wash solution?
How do u get the old freehub bearings out?
The wonderful wizard of Oz...there in lies a statement
Great video man 👍
Thanks for the video. I tried but could not get the bearings out, i bet they are seized in the freewheel, its old wheel. Have to buy a new one..
you could get a bearing puller kit from ebay, surprisingly good value.
@@DeepakKumar-lv4te this was 2yrs ago and got it open. hard to find good quality bearings, changed them twice already
Thankyou for this video its very helpful
could you do a video about extracting hub bearings on a hub with a thru axle?
that would be nice
Artem Poznyak search RUclips for prime wheels, they have lots of tutorials on how to change bearings and thru axle adapters.
The Oz cycle video episode just prior to this one covers that.
Thanks doc. 🤙🏽
Hi Oz, I live in Vietnam and I have looked everywhere for the dynabolt like yours, I can get an expansion bolt that I think will work my MTB, bearing inner size is 17mm so will 10mm expansion bolt be big enough to grab the bearing, many thanks.
If you use ceramic bearings in the wheel hub should you use the same type of bearings in the free hub or not. Thank You
Preferably but you dont need to it will still work fine
Ok, Thanks
If you're replacing bearings, don't waste money on new ceramic ones, they are pointless on a 🚲.
Great video, as usual !
I wonder if there is a way to repair or prevent those bites on the freehub made from cassettes sprockets. I saw some have a hard metal protecting it, but are a renowned ones.
Thank you !
+Alvaro Federico Good question. Usually the freehub will last longer than the rim braking surface so doesnt matter anyhow. Will keep my eyes n ears open for good solution tho :)
This guy uses two flattened out steel staples and wedges them between the splines and cassettes. I was thinking of doing this to get more life out my nice SRAM hubs as I was going to put some Chinese carbon rims on them once the ALU rims have worn out. I would love to see Oz Cycle to do your own version of this fix. Annoyingly my novatec hubs on another set of wheels already come with an ABG (Anti bite guard) installed on the freehub ruclips.net/video/PCIe9fgFDTA/видео.html
@@richardggeorge one of my freehubs (bitex) has built in steel splines to prevent the soft aluminum bite. Shimano freehubs tend to simply be made of steel, preventing this issue entirely.
That c-clip in the freehub was in a purpose groove, so I do not understand how was it possible to push the bearing out so far, without breaking something. I'm pretty sure it was just pure luck and for most people watching this, it won't actually work. What is needed is blind hole bearing extractor and that is expensive tool. Freehubs are made this way on purpose so we can not service them without the proper tool mention which apart from Ali is extortionatelly expensive. And the ones from Ali are often single use if that.
good afternoon, very good your videos, do you have any tutorial on how to disassemble that hub where you change the bearings? is that I have some of the same and I do not know how to disassemble them to be able to change the bearings, thanks and greetings from Panama
Sorry no Alicia. Most hubs are assembled very similar tho
Very informative !!
Great stuff Oz! How do you determine the type and size of bearings if they need replacement? Also could you suggest locations where to source them from? Thank you in advance.
+Ron MacNeil Good question Ron.1/Measure outside diameter of entire bearing. 2/Measure inside diameter of inner race. 3/Measure width of the sealed bearing. With these three measurements you can buy your new bearings. Ebay will sell. In Australia I buy"Plaig bearings".
you should also note if there is a chamfer (angle) to the outside of the races. Not many have it (a tange headset does) but it's likely to be 45 degrees. bearing specs are often listed ID / OD / width . Google is your friend!!
Hi, could you tell which product you use for cleaning the components? Congratulations on sharing your knowledge, they are perfect.
Use automobile degreaser, Luiz.
Finally! Im been looking for a way to remove the freehub bearings, all the bearings of my carbon wheels are rusty now.. thanks sir
Mabuhay!
From phillipines...
Pressing bearings is simple if you follow this guide. My only question is about feel and how much pressure the outer freehub bearing required against the spacer tube. Too much preload make for a stiff free hub.
The spacer shouldnt cause extra friction unless it is maligned and impinging on the seal?
The spacer is straight A’s the axle went through just fine. Perhaps it’s the new grease that’s made them stiff. Good video though. Even Novatech don’t have the job you tackled on RUclips.
helped us out alot lad. Thanks
If you extract the bearing from the hub you tap away in the inside race of bearing? Do you have some favorite kind of graese to the bearings?
Usually it damages the bearing so new ones are recommended. I use white lithium grease.
thank 's for these video.
Do you why a freehub body like the one in this video would allow a cassette to vibrate? I found play in the freehub body. Is that just the bearings shot? Thanks 😊
Freehub bodys sometimes have a small amount of play but it shouldnt cause any problems. If unsure take it to your local l bike shop to check
Whats the cleaning agent that you're using here mate?
Degreaser
Great video but please remover the seals from the Outer race, not the inner part of the seal. The inner part of the seal is damagged verry quickly.
What grease was that?
Lithium grease
What do I search for tool 1, what’s it called? What size bolt is that & nuts?? Thanks.
Nice video, thanks :)
I like it ! Nice video. Thanks oz ! Beside, any tips for removing bearing for Novatec D041SBT rear hub?
You mean DO41SB ? Yes you should be able to use the same methods in the video.
Fantastic. Thanks much.
Thank you 👍🚴
you are a blessing
+Robert Gil Sounds like something worked for you Robert? :)
Any tips on how to put the grease in a syringe? I've had too much air as a problem if I just try to skoop it in. Pushing it out is not too easy and results in discontinuous stream of grease once it is being used.
+hoggif I just squash it in from the tip towards the top, making sure any air is pushed out. Takes a while but the grease lasts a long time anyhow so its worth the effort. Cheers
Hey! Cut the syringe in 1/3 portions. The push part should be bigger. Then push the bigger part inti a grease container then join the two prts by arubber hose thats just press fit to join the two. Hope this helps
Excellent... You are in which country?..
Australia
@@stevenleffanue thanks.... Am in Honduras
Great information.
Cone bearings are better, but cartridge bearings are easier to DIY replace and service.
I love it. Really dont know why someone should pay $$$ for a press
they dont cost that much i would figure? I mean you have to guy all these parts Mr Oz is showing us..so probably not much difference?
the cost of a press is often the same as paying a lbs to work on the hubs, so buying the press makes sense, also not everyone has a workshop or time to experiment like oz
+mikieson Dont forget there are lots of bike enthusiasts who live in not so well of countries...ie...India , who can source a bolt n washers to do this but the actual tool is out of their reach moneywise.
Hi sir, what if the bearing is already damage, in my case the freehub body sealed bearing already spread out. The outer core of the bearing is stock on the freehub body. Is there a way to remove the outer core of the bearing from the freehub body
Yes. Often there is a circlip holding the outer bearing in place.
wonderful
Hold still man! What are you cranked on?
Yeh,sorry,I film with my phone. One day I will buy a camera.
What kind of grease is the best ?
+MegaTrdi Most medium viscosity greases are suitable....I use white lithium grease.
Thank you very much!
Καλημέρα από Ελλάδα. Κανένα συνεργείο δεν ασχολείται με τέτοιες λεπτομερείς εργασίες. Εχω κέντρα DT SWISS 240s και όταν τους λέω για service μου αναφέρουν ότι είναι κλειστού τύπου. Θέλουν να πωλούν ποδήλατα για εύκολο κέρδος.
video ini yg saya cari...service freehub...oke..thanks...i'm from indonesia.
are the Novatec and this freehub interchangeable?
Yes,these are Novatec hubs Daniel.
@@stevenleffanue any idea if F422GCC internals can be serviced?
Hi mr.oz cycle, I plan to replace my novatec F172SB hub. But I don't know what type of bearings and how many bearings its use.
What type of bearing on Novatec F172SB will use?
Remove the bearings and they will have numbers written on the seal. You can order new bearings by that number.
You legend!
Good. Vid. Thanks
Very helpful
Thank´s so much!!!!
nice
I actually wouldn't bother cleaning them. They cost 4 USD per bearing , and the old one can be used as scrap metal .
Replacing with NTN 6803LLB will be sweet!😍
I find that the grooves on my freehub get pretty chewed up, so that even if I could clean/replace the bearings there’s not much point. Anybody have a cure for not having the cassette eat into the freehub?
Rixter always be sure to tighten the cassette to the correct torque setting most are around 40Nm. which is surprisingly tight but will help to hold the cassette as one and stop it chewing up the freehub.
Made my freehub body unusable, since the inner bearing fell apart when "unmounting" this way, and just the outer race of the bearing remained in-place, deep in the freehub body, incapable to be removed.
Since most the freehubs are alu now you should just replace the entire freehub that comes with new bearings. Rinse repeat. Servicing those bearings is just too fiddly.
Agree...if the freehub make and model you need is available.
Trying to regrease sealed bearings is totally ineffective.