I picked up that BB Puller kit and did the same cushion mod. Using it for my bikes and nephew's wheelchairs. A wheelchair maintenance company was charging medicaid $1500 for bearing replacements.
I've had great success with the bodged version of this. Using 12mm bar and a pair 1/2" sq drive sockets with od equal to that of the bearing, the increased length between the applied load of the nut and reaction load at the bearing easily overcomes the moment acting to pull everything out of line. I suspect this works as long as the socket used is longer than its own diameter.
Interesting BenedictIEP, thanks for sharing. I also tried a socket, (sparkplug socket is a great fit for a 6902 🤣), but still had an issue. However, my threaded rod is only 9mm. I suspect your 12mm rod is doing a better job of keeping things perpendicular to the hub.
I have used Frankenstein's nose ring (love that name) with drifts I bought online in the needed bearing sizes. The drifts are not expensive and much less than a full set of presses. The problem isn't the nose ring device, it's that the washer's size don't match the bar and bearing, solved by the drift.
@@ribblevalleycyclistgreat useful videos. Thanks for sharing. I just take piece of wood n hit the axle n pops out the old bearings ..n use impact socket to hit in the pressed bearings,,,
Brilliant, thanks. I've ordered both tool sets. My Hunt MTB wheelset has clocked up 5,000 miles in wet English conditions and the bearings are running rough. Having seen this and bought the tools I know I can swap them out myself with ease. I used the Frankinstein's nosering method years ago on a motorbike - successfully in the end, but it was a tiresome process - I know it'll be easier with your recommended method. Excellent, this is what RUclips does best.
Hi Jon, I think that if you have mechanical sympathy and are a persistent bugger, you can get Frankenstein's nose ring to work for you. But lets be honest, who needs that hassle in their life? And anyway, using the right tools is just a nicer experience. I personally run 4 sets of HUNT wheels, and am hoping to do a few maintenance videos around them pretty soon..... using the exact tools you've just treated yourself to. So, watch this space. Glad you enjoyed the video, and enjoy those new tools 👍
The other problem with the washer press is that as the washer is loaded it's going to deform and apply more force to the centre of the bearing, side loading and damaging the bearing. The load needs to be applied to the outer race.
Where were you a week ago before i trashed my DT Swiss hub. I looked for these puller kits and only found the expensive ones till watching your video. Now I'm buying a hub and some pullers. Thanks for sharing, I've subscribed and will be checking out more of your content before wrecking more of my bike. Cheers...
Go chase the bin wagon, see if you can get it back 😂😂. There are a few mysterious things that separate the budding home mechanic from the pro, and presses and pullers are some of those mysteries. My channel hopes to explain some of those thinks. Welcome aboard 👍
wonderful video in which you answer all my questions.... just great, you can really feel the experience of failure and the search for a solution without compromise. i'm a total fan, thanks
If you're only going to replace a couple of bearings every so often, the choices are 1)pay a bloke or 2) get these cheap tools and diy. Informative video, thanks
Hi Pigeon Poo, Agreed. Also, if you're only doing it every so often, if you're carefully, you can just knock the bearings out...... hub permitting. Thanks 👍
I agree with bearing press recommendation, but not the bearing puller. I have tried these automotive/motorcycle bearing pullers and there are a couple of problems with these (poor overall quality and rough edges, the protruding lip which may interfere with preload pipe and damage it, the legs of the puller not suited for a bicycle due to not enough space to place them on most hubs) I had to return an expanding lip set that I had, it was causing too much damage and was very awkward to work with. Bearing Pro Tools sell pullers that are more suited for the bicycles. I should probably do a video on these. I am not affiliated and have paid money for my set, but it is more about the type of the pullers rather than specific brand. The main difference is that they are made from aluminium, bearing specific like the press set, and do not have a lip to grab the bearing.
Hi again Hard Work, good to hear from you. *The protruding lip which may interfere with preload pipe and damage it* Never do the collet pin up with a spanner, and use the smallest collet to prevent excess expansion beyond the inner bearing lip. As you can see at point 6:10 in the video, the collet is in place, hooked under the bearing, but it’s rattling around freely, this confirms it's not putting any pressure on the preload tube, and therefore won’t damage it. The key here is to use the smallest collet and expanding it to only hook the bearing, that is why I stress only doing it up by hand. Using a larger collet will fit too tight, and may catch the collet. I used the 12-15mm collet, rather than the 15-17mm, and that is why it rattles around, but still pulls the bearing. I have never damaged a preload tube using this method. *The legs of the puller not suited for a bicycle due to not enough space to place them on most hubs* I have pulled multiple bearings using this puller. I have yet to find a hub that it won’t fit. What hub did you have this issue with? Additionally, adding a slide hammer to the set is of little expense, and overcome this. *Bearing Pro Tools:* Yes, I’m aware of this brand, they make some good bearing pullers. Because of this, I meant to mention them in the video, but forgot. I like their wind-out product, but have had issues with their expanding product (slipped on me a few times). The main issue is that each of their pullers is bearing size specific, so you’ll need to buy a lot of pullers, at £16 each! Thanks, Jon
@@ribblevalleycyclist Jon, you may be right that the lips of the puller not necessarily damage the tube. But this is definetly a potential risk. By the way, I used a smaller collet and ran into a different problem - because the quality of the collets was so poor, the teeth of the collet started extending unevenly and one even developed a crack in it. I am sure it was only a matter of time until it would break off. I think most mechanics will run into problems with most straight pull hubs and bottom bracket bearings, due to not enough space to rest the legs of the puller on. I had problems with a DT Swiss 350 straight pull hub. The whole solution felt flimsy. I am sure Bearing Pro are not the only ones offering the same friction style collets, but I was unable to find competitors. They could have set their prices even higher due to no competition. But when I bought from them I only bought a set for my bicycle and so the set turned out to be relatively economical. In general, if I see value in tools I would never regret spending money on them. I see the benefits of this design in saving time and avoiding potential damage.
I have used the bearing pro tools ones for extracting bearings from the suspension of my mtb. Doesn’t work. You have to wack them out and you damage your frame. The aluminium expanders of the small extractors bend easily and brake of.
I like to use ingeniously in these situations, without having to purchase specific tools for situations which I can find relatively easy/cheap ways to overcome. For the home mechanic, to remove bearings that have a spacer fitted, such as explained in this video, which cannot be easily removed with a punch and hammer, due to how the spacer is fitted. In this situation, I find that just using something slightly tapered/small chisel that will fit through the inner of the bearing and using something metal, inserted the other way, such that the tapered item, will wedge itself inside of the far end bearing inner. Then the far end bearing can be knocked or pushed out of the housing, without causing any damage or issue. The opposite bearing can be simply knocked out or pulled out, using threaded rod and suitable spacers/ sockets. Refitting new bearings is normally more straightforward. As others have said, If required for ease of fitting, cool the bearing before fitting, (putting in freezer or spaying etc) before attempting to fit and ensure that you only push on the bearing outer and in such a way that the bearing goes in straight. Of course, common sense in basic engineering principles apply. I also suggest, if you ride in the UK all year, or in similar conditions in other countries and your hubs/BB do not have really good sealing, I suggest not fitting low contact seals, unless you race and are happy to change them more often. 🙂
Love the video, you say don't replace removed bearings, I've been removing my red bones for my casters/ wheelchair basketball, removing seal and dry cleaning in acetone, leave to dry then a few drops of bones lube followed by rock & roll lube, then immediately put the bearings in the freezer overnight, take them out in the morning and they just fall back into the casters, I do the exact same thing with my spinergy wheels and I can't mess about with them as not cheap at around 2k a pair, point I'm getting at, I'd rather not use any tools at all, my casters spin for over a minute and one push has my wheelchair from one end of the court to the other, all with the same bearings cleaned and replaced for the last 5 years. Keep up the good work 👏
Hi Stan, Glad you liked the video. The idea was to show how easy it is to use complicated looking tools, and prove those other methods are a bad idea. I saw the Reginald Scot/Hambini thing, let's hope they've put it behind them. Thanks, Jon
This is a really nice bearing installation set! I use exactly the same and it worked perfect both for pulling out (using 34mm socket) and pressing back my DT Swiss 240 hub bearings
I have same press kit, have used it from hub bearings, suspension pivots, headsets etc. In certain situations I end up needing some socket, oversized nuts, washers to get just the right pressure and depth. Oversized nuts or larger sockets come in handy to create space when you have to create a cavity for a bearing that you have to press out.
Man i love you for making this video, im a broke student coming from a not so rich family and recently my bearings in the freehub have stopped spinning as good as they used to, seeing the price of the bearing extractor from park tool made me really sad since im short on money but at the same time really want to ride my bike. I bought the yardwe bearing removal tool, so thank you alot for making this video.
I had my go at pressing bearing and using sockets that are resting against the outer race has a high success rate. I don't know if there's a similarly successful DIY bearing puller, was thinking about using a circlip, but sometimes the gap between the bearing and preload tube is so small that probably it wouldn't fit anyway. So yeah, it's harder to substitute/bodge a bearing puller than bearing press. Great video!
Thanks for a great and informative maintenance tutorial. This is one job I haven’t tackled but will do soon. If you cycle in & around the Ribble Valley I might see you out on the roads as I’m from the north of the county, Heysham.
Hi, If you use these tools, it makes the job that much easier. Also, if you have the tools, you're more likely to do the job when it needs doing. Good luck with it, and let us know how you get on. I rode from Clitheroe to Heysham once, to catch the ferry to the Isle of Man. Had a great cycling weekend over there. On the way to Heysham, we bumped into Bradley Wiggins out on his bike 🤣
Appreciate the recommendations on tools, I think those sets will work great for my needs. I didn't want to shell out the money on Park Stuff and I'm too proud to pay someone to work on my bike being a former tech lol.
A bolt just smaller than the inner diameter of the bearing is better than a screwdriver for tapping out bearings. It's less likely to skate around on the bearing when tapped.
Great video, however my axel won’t remove from the hub. It’s a vision team 30 wheel. I read it should be tapped out from the non drive side but it will not budge. Any advice?
Hi Tim, Been a very long time since I did a Vision wheel. Last one I did was a Vision 25 Rim QR. I recall you knock the bearing out by tapping the axle from the drive side. You took the freehub off, and then tapped the exposed axle. But it was a long time ago, and I may be wrong.
@@ribblevalleycyclist thanks, I’ll try the drive side instead. Not sure how much force I’m prepared to hit it with! Also great video on the stuck pad axle on 105 calliper. I remember a bike shop once drilled mine out then used a split pin. I’ve got this issue again on a very old model of Hope brake and will see if this method is plausible
this is such a good video with lots of attention to detail. didnt even know there was a way to blind pull bearings without the slider hammer. this method seems way less likely to damage anything compared to wanking the puller as hard as you can
Hi TheLeesto, Glad you enjoyed it. I think there is too much 'Smoke & Mirrors' when it comes to bearings. I wanted to show it's not as complicated as some would have you think, and the tools are affordable. Saying that though, I've seen a bearing manufacturer stick their name on that bearing puller and sell it for $199!!!!
I have a basic press with not every beearing drift. I found 3d printing a drift will still work better than frankensteins nose ring if you don't have the right size on hand. Also 3d printed random softjaws for seatposts. My friends hate me because i am not printing figurines.
09:40 how about the penny bolted both sides, with the inner side a smaller nut than the outer side? maybe the penny presser will not move around, and stiffer to press the bearing?
@@ribblevalleycyclist first I pushed the bearings in an angle in and needed to tap them out again. In my second attempt I re-pushed the same bearings in which probably were damaged due to taping them out again. After 6 months my bearings lost balls and did completely grind the inside of my hub
Good for you, Ashley!!!!! Let us know what you think of the kit and how you get on with it. The press is super sexy....... or am I being a bit weird with that?????? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
The methods you dismissed work perfectly well for (older?) Campagnolo hubs, such as Mirage and Athena. Done it plenty of times. Also the old Mavic sealed bearing hubs, front and rear. I don't care about the modern hubs because I would never use them😂😂
@forestdamian5601 Yes, no problem at all. You need to remember that although the drifts press hard against the bearings, there is no friction between them, so there is no wear. Some of mine are starting to lose their lettering, but as you can imagine, mine gets a hammering. You can buy this product with confidence 👍
What a great video! Makes no sense to me buying a £400 set of tools for occasion use, if there are reasonable products available that'll last the half a dozen uses of it I'll have for it, that is a much better option. I could always sell them after and at least my depreciation is kept to a minimum. I would have otherwise just bought a new wheel or paid the local bike shop (although that's not a bad idea, since they are so few of them around these days even in the Ribble Valley, they need our support with small jobs so they are there when we really need them)
Agreed, the tools demo'd are perfect for the home mechanic that only uses them occasionally. Yes, the bike shop stock in the Ribble Valley is bad. Clitheroe used to have three...... The Green Jersey, The Fell, and that other one that I can never remember the name of. I think the nearest one now is probably Skipton!
My front wheel is shot so thinking about buying the press and puller and having a go, started to strip down my wheel but the sleeve which the axle runs through protrudes out about 7mm from the bearing, any tips on how I progress Jon?
Been following you for a while as your channel is in great help for the newbie home bike mechanic! Would you have any recommendations for reasonably prices tools for extracting and installing Press Fit BB? Big brands have a significant price tag that discourages me to do it on my own, at the same time, I've build bikes myself and prefer to be able to service everything too. Thanks and kudos for your help to us all!
Hi Stoyan, glad you're enjoying the content. The press in this video will sort the bottom bracket for you, as well as most other bearings, so it's well worth having one. With regard to knocking the old one out, I know a lot of people have used this tool to great effect: amzn.to/4b4kAql
Nice video, very informative. I think I'll be throwing my Frankenstein nose ring out.. I think I only used it once on a headset but defo not worth the risk. Coincidentally, I recently watched a few videos where Hambini and Reginald Scot have been debunking each others bearing removal methods. I'm in Reginald's camp.
Hi archiecraig, Oh, you have a Frankenstein nose ring!! Imagine it'd do a better job on the large headset bearings. I thought about the Hambini/Reginald Scot 'Lovers Tiff' whilst I was editing this video. I've never damaged any part of a wheel using a blind puller, and that includes the very robust preload tube. The same can't be said about using the screwdriver method. So I can imagine you can work out what camp I'm in!!
@@ribblevalleycyclist i don't suppose you know how to remove the end cap on a SRAM x9 hub. One side is threaded and I assume the other is too but just rotates when one side is off. It's frustrating as I need to replace the worn bearings of my front wheel.
You see a lot of homemade pullers demo'd on RUclips. If you're working to a budget, and only need to pull one bearing, then it's worth looking at the tools offered by BearingProTools: www.bearingprotools.com/collections/bearing-pullers-single
To put back in the bearing on the Mavic, you use to much force in the beginning. You have to go slow and strait and never press on the inner bearing ring !
Hi LhDiy, I battled with that press setup for some time, and I also tried several sockets…. A sparkplug socket is a great fit for a 6902 bearing. However, it kept going in sideways. I kept an eye on it, and moved the home-made press where the pressure was needed, but it just slipped back. I didn’t show all of this, because who wants to watch that!! Thanks for sharing your recommendations. Jon
A special tool is always better, but for a pair of bearings to replace in the wheel every 2 - 3 years is to much for some. Thanks to know that are reasonably priced kits available online @@ribblevalleycyclist
I'm pretty sure you're stalking me. I've just had all of these issues on my Hollowgram 35 wheelset and I spent hours trying to work out whether it was good value to buy a puller/press when Chevin did it for £10 (bearings sourced myself from Bearing Factors in Nelson which is such a good place).
Yep, guilty as charged. Do me a favour, don't start thinking about a full Dura Ace install 🤣. Bearing Factors..... Will look them up 👍 Are you in that part of that world? If so, you're not a million miles from Colin Gardner, who is a very talented bike mechanic.
@@ribblevalleycyclist Bearing Factors are located behind Asda Colne/Nelson. They've got plenty of Weldtite products/Hope cleaning products etc. too (and the Squirt wax I couldn't get for ages). Yes, I'm located about as close to Thursden Valley Road Climb as anyone would want. Thanks for the recommendation although I have enough knowledge and ambition to be dangerous when it comes to maintaining our fleet!
Of course proper tool are going to be easier and work perfectly as intended. At least try better with hack tools, be extra careful and have a common sense not to go force crooked bearing in further!
The force used to pull the bearing puts excess pressure on the individual balls, and may deform them. The only danger is that you're putting back in a potentially damaged bearing. It won't do any damage to the wheel, but the bearing may prematurely fail.
@@ribblevalleycyclist what your thoughts on extracting bearings periodically for a cleaning/regrease then? seems like doing blind pulls might ruin any longevity gained from cleaning. seems the consensus is to just replace em once they get gritty.
@wagwanyute8156 If you need to extract with force (puller or punch) then my personal preference is to replace. If the bearing is of above average quality, the internals shouldn’t get dirty too quickly
The average home mechanic needs to remember, that before hideously overpriced blue handled tools, a 10" piece of all-thread, some large penny washers and a couple of jam nuts was a perfectly acceptable way of doing things...
Also, your washers were waaaay too thin, hence they deform and the bearing goes in on the wonk. The (admittedly very nice looking...) press kit you have versus the bit of stud and washers really only differed in the thickness of the drifts...
Hi Sam, thanks for your thoughts. The washers used were 1mm thick galvanised ones, so although they may look like they deformed, they didn't. However, I personally think that if I'd have used 15mm threaded bar as opposed to 10mm, there would've been less space for the bearings to go sideways. Also, maybe using larger sockets as drifts would've helped. So, I agree, there is room for improvement with my DIY press. But I still stand by what I say, the £40 press set is the better way to go....... and I suspect you'd agree 😉
@@ribblevalleycyclistoh absolutely, after all, as a mechanic, he who does with the most tools, wins, after all, right? HOWEVER. Devils advocate time. The washers are just not thick enough. If it came down to a one off use situation, a piece of all thread and some thick washers (1mm is NOT thick enough!) would do. I guess it's the difference between 'n00b' proofing something and not: it's all down to that mechanics 'feel' if you know something is lined up or going in right or not. The price you pay for that press kit to do the job without thinking about it, versus having those bits and pieces knocking around to lash together and make a tool to do the job, if you follow?
I've been a home mechanic ever since I got my first bike as a kid; in my late 40s now. I've used the 'proper tool', and the DIY version and I can tell you are porpusely using the DIY version wrong.
"Porpusely using the DIY version wrong." Interesting allegation. Please expand on how I am using it 'Purposely' wrong, how you've come to that assumption, and why I would do that?
@@ribblevalleycyclistSorry for being so blunt. For example on the DIY press, just threating in the rod, throwing on the nuts, then just start screwing away will just yield the result you got, a skewed bearing. The DIY version requieres a bit more finesse than the 'proper tool'. You've got to keep an eye out for it to press the bearings in straight. Also adding some makeshift drifts wouldn't be a bad idea, like maybe a couple of sockets. I've removed several bearings just using a small hammer and a blunt rod to tab out bearings with no adverse effect on the hub. I wouldn't recommend a sharp standard/flat harden screwdriver to tap out a bearing, the screwdriver being sharp and harder that the alloy in the hub, will surely damage/scuff it if comes in contact with the hub.
You weren’t blunt, you called me a fake. I did exactly as others had demonstrated on RUclips (I won’t name names). I battled with that press setup for some time, and I also tried several sockets…. A spark plug socket is a great fit for a 6902 bearing. However, it kept going in sideways. I kept an eye on it, and moved the makeshift press to where the pressure was needed, but it just slipped back. I didn’t show all of this, because who wants to watch that. However, I agree with you, on reflection, doing as others have done and using a large screwdriver to remove bearings was a bad idea, and that is why I ended up unintentionally damaging a perfectly good hub. However, once again, I was testing what many so called ‘Experts’ on RUclips have both recommended and done, and it seems that I once again showed that this was a bad idea. Oh, and on reflection, a socket extension would’ve been a better choice of tool....... If you could get to the back of the first bearing in the first place (Pre-Load Tube). The purpose of the video was to demonstrate how those ‘Bearing Hacks’ can be a bad idea, and how using the correct tool is a better option for the average budding home mechanic. Which is exactly what I did. Unless of course you think I’m wrong to do that, and those 'Hacks' are a better way of doing it????? When was the last time you saw a professional mechanic use one of those things? There is a good reason they don’t, it's got nothing to do with price, it’s because it's a bad idea.
@@ribblevalleycyclistI apologize for calling you that, should have some other wording there. English is not my first language. if I saw a professional mechanic use a makeshift/DIY solution on one of my bikes, I'd stop her/him right at the moment and take my stuff somewhere else; not that I regularly take my bikes to a mechanic anyway. I do understand that even using the proper tool requires skills, can't have good results if you don't know how to use the tool. Using the screwdriver to tap out the bearing was actually what got me in the "he's doing that on purpose" mood. You don't take a hard sharp edge to a softer shell, that's like a big "No, no" in any situation. That's why I concluded what I did. As per the DIY press, it takes me about 3 to 5 minutes to press a bearing in, and I already know which sockets, nuts and washers to use. With a real press it takes me maybe 30 secs. Again apologize for coming across such a c*nt.
Hello? Was that hub really wrecked? Sure you have an ugly nick but why can't you just take a small curved file and smooth out the nick and press in the new bearing. Sure you hate to see this! After a new bearing is pressed in, if that "damage" is properly cleaned with a jeweler file, no effect to the function should exist. That is the beauty of a cartridge sealed bearing. The bearing balls do not ride past the damage! Freezing bearing and heating hub is a centuries old technique.
Hi Dan, Yes, it is. Agreed, the side wall damaged caused by the bearing press hack could potentially be addressed with a bit of wet & dry. But the screwdriver has caused damage to the bearing seat. I thought I was hitting the back of the bearing with that large screwdriver and hammer, when in fact, I was smacking the back of that soft alloy bearing seat. There is little chance of that bearing now sitting either flush to the seat, or perpendicular to the other bearing. This will cause excess wear to both the bearings, and the thru-axle. And as I say in the video, why would you do it anyway, when the correct tool is relatively cheap, and easy to obtain. In my opinion, it's not worth taking the risk.
@@ribblevalleycyclist I’ve been super guilty of getting straight on the interweb as the first choice, but my last two trips to the bike shop has been a couple of £ cheaper than online AND I didn’t have to play the “am I going to be in when its delivered game”
I'm sorry, but you are way to enamored with your highly effective and yet far from perfect tools while giving only the crudest and most awkward use of often hightly functional "home brew" techniques. Carefully tapping bearings out works exceptionally well on way more than half the different hub systems and is even recommended by many high end hub and bearing manufactures like DT-Swiss. And, re-inserting bearings with a comercial bearing press and appropriate sized drift is still far from perfect with bearings still going cockeyed during the press process maybe as much as 1/2 the time. I would suggest that the most important part of installing a pressed in bearing is pressing it in stright, and a judiciously used hammer is better at this than even the high-end bicycle shop bearing press systems at getting the bearing started straight.
Hi Nelson, Thank you for sharing your thoughts. I’m confused, You describe my tools as “highly effective” but in the same breath you say they’re “far from perfect tools”. I’m not saying that tapping bearings out can’t be done, What I’m saying is you can’t always do it that way, you may cause damage, and doing it with a bearing puller is the better way to do it. I agree, inserting the bearing perpendicular to the hub is key. However, I’m not sure using a hammer is the best way of achieving that….. I assume you’re joking, right? When was the last time you saw a professional mechanic use one of these ‘Home Brew’ tools, or worse a hammer, to install bearings? There is a good reason they don’t, it's got nothing to do with price, it’s because it's a bad idea. The purpose of the video was to demonstrate how those ‘Bearing Hacks’ can be a bad idea, and how using the correct tool is a better option for the average budding home mechanic. Which is exactly what I did. Unless of course you think I’m wrong to do that, and those 'Hacks' are a better way of doing it?????
@@ribblevalleycyclist Sorry to be both confusing and negative. I appreicate your effort in communicating the art of fixing bicycles. It's a topic dear to my heart. I'll try and answer your questions in order: 1) Bearing presses and pullers are highly effective tools. BUT, they do not always work. They are but two of the many tools useful in pulling and pressing bearings. And, they often fail to do their job and require other tools and techniques to either succeed or succeed without damage. 2) I liked a lot of what you said about pounding out bearings. But, it was implied that damage through pounding is likely and that bearing pullers are likely required most of the time. My experience is that, with care, damage from pounding is rare and the vast majority of hubs (and other bicycle components) do not need a puller to remove their bearings. 3) I am not joking about the hammer in the least. Just like doing body work on a car, you can pull and push the metal, but the really refined and controled shaping is done with a hammer with care. Bearings are similar. The outer races of bearings are hardened steel and tapping them with a does no harm whatsoever. And, by gently tapping at the right angle on the righ part of the bearing, one can gently ease it straight and into place with much more finesse than a press can, at least in the beginning while the bearing is fighting the initial line-up with the bearing seat. 4) The last time I saw a professional use a hammer was yesterday at work when I was replacing lower pivot bearings in a Santa Cruz Tallboy. . . actually, I take that back, I just used a press yesterday because the bearings were being cooperative. So, probably the day before while servicing some hub bearings. 5) I certainly appreciate your effort in showing the down side of the "home brew" techniques and the benifits of using the "right" tools. Valid points! The fault I find with what was presented was that there are also frequently times when those "home brew" methods and tools work as well or better than the purpose built alternatives, and I found the video did not acknowledge that. And in fact, it suggested that the purpose built tools would always provide better results. In all, thank you very much for your efforts. It takes a lot of guts, time, and effort to put yourself out there and provide the service you are providing. Thank you.
I think the thing that needs to be considered here is the level of skill and what I like to call ‘Mechanical Sympathy’ of the person carrying out the work. Reading the comments, it would seem that the only people that, shall we say, take umbrage to me criticising the ‘Home Brew’ methods, are those that, it would seem, have a level of skill and mechanical sympathy. And this would therefore also suggest that it takes that kind of person to operate the ‘Home Brew’ method in the first place. Some may call these people “Fettlers”, they will happily fettle away for hours with the wrong tool, and eventually achieve a perfectly good result. I aim my channel at the ‘Budding Home Mechanic’, that wants some help and advice as to how to repair their bike themselves. And for that reason, although I respect the alternative methods, I stand by my advice. And thank you for your kind comments, I genuinely appreciate it.
@@ribblevalleycyclist I think you have a good point about "mechanical sympathy", if it is what I have always thought of as mechanical aptitude. There is no doubt that better tools almost always make a job easier, and less skilled/experienced technicians benifit from having an easier job, and also good tools to make it harder to screw up. That being said I'll have to take issue with your comment on fettlers, or maybe more preciesly fiddlers? I'm a production mechanic. I am all about speed and efficiency while maintaining quality. Removing a bearing with a punch is nearly always significantly faster than with a bearing puller. And, removing small suspension bearings with my "home made" bearing popper (made with pliers and pipe fittings) is also faster and safer on light carbon components than any comercial bearing puller I've seen. So, I love "budding home mechanics" and your channel is a great and readily accessable resource promoting that. Please, keep it going strong. And, I will always be the rebel encouraging expermentation with creative ideas and the tools at hand. . . especially since I have all the fancy tools and appreciate their strengths AND shortcomings.
Couldn't you tap it with the screw driver slow down and take your time it's all in the fun of DYI YEAH JUST SAVE THE CASH AND SPEND THE MONEY TIME IS PRICELESS 🎉🎉
A bearing race performs similarly to cup & cone, put lasts a lot longer. Therefore less maintenance is required. The advances in technology means we need to maintain less, but use more advanced tooling when we do.
I've seen this done many times, but never with such small races as you find on a cycle wheel. I'm going to test this theory out, and if successful, will do a video on it.
Thanks for letting me know Lee. I didn’t know about that, could you do me a huge favour and point out where in the video it happened. Could do with understanding what happened, to avoid it happening again. Thank you 👍
@@smshing_lee I see what you mean. It's a powered microphone, which means you can increase the gain at the mic end, and reduce the gain at the camera end. I suspect the gain is too high on the mic, so it's picking up every little noise. I'll have a look at it. Thanks again, really do appreciate it. 👍
Thank you for this! I have no immediate need to change my cartridge bearings, but want to educate myself for when the time may come. I have been deeply suspicious of all the “hacks” I’ve seen. As the saying goes- there’s nothing more expensive than the cheapest option. Thank you for letting us know about these reasonably-priced tools (which cost less than a single shop visit!) to do it the right way.
I picked up that BB Puller kit and did the same cushion mod. Using it for my bikes and nephew's wheelchairs. A wheelchair maintenance company was charging medicaid $1500 for bearing replacements.
$1500 to replace bearings, think I’m in the wrong job, Brent!!!! Nice work 👍
I've had great success with the bodged version of this. Using 12mm bar and a pair 1/2" sq drive sockets with od equal to that of the bearing, the increased length between the applied load of the nut and reaction load at the bearing easily overcomes the moment acting to pull everything out of line. I suspect this works as long as the socket used is longer than its own diameter.
Interesting BenedictIEP, thanks for sharing. I also tried a socket, (sparkplug socket is a great fit for a 6902 🤣), but still had an issue. However, my threaded rod is only 9mm. I suspect your 12mm rod is doing a better job of keeping things perpendicular to the hub.
I have used Frankenstein's nose ring (love that name) with drifts I bought online in the needed bearing sizes. The drifts are not expensive and much less than a full set of presses. The problem isn't the nose ring device, it's that the washer's size don't match the bar and bearing, solved by the drift.
@@ribblevalleycyclistgreat useful videos. Thanks for sharing. I just take piece of wood n hit the axle n pops out the old bearings ..n use impact socket to hit in the pressed bearings,,,
"Frankenstein's nose ring". That was worth the damn like, right there.
Cheers, Jim 😂👍
The absolute best cycling maintenance, RUclips channel. Period.
Big compliment, thanks, Rickysee 👍👍
Love listening to this guy teaching about fixing a bike he’s spot on
Thanks, Anthony, really appreciate it.
Brilliant, thanks. I've ordered both tool sets. My Hunt MTB wheelset has clocked up 5,000 miles in wet English conditions and the bearings are running rough. Having seen this and bought the tools I know I can swap them out myself with ease. I used the Frankinstein's nosering method years ago on a motorbike - successfully in the end, but it was a tiresome process - I know it'll be easier with your recommended method. Excellent, this is what RUclips does best.
Hi Jon,
I think that if you have mechanical sympathy and are a persistent bugger, you can get Frankenstein's nose ring to work for you. But lets be honest, who needs that hassle in their life? And anyway, using the right tools is just a nicer experience.
I personally run 4 sets of HUNT wheels, and am hoping to do a few maintenance videos around them pretty soon..... using the exact tools you've just treated yourself to. So, watch this space.
Glad you enjoyed the video, and enjoy those new tools 👍
'Frankenstein's nose ring' works perfect ! Used it on my fulcrum wind wheels no problemo
been a mechanic for 48 years put bearing in freezer the it just drrops in.
I’ve heard of this before, but never tried it. I will give it a go, and may do a video on it. Thanks. 👍
Very interesting and helpful. Thanks 👍🏻
as a spindle mechanic you are 100 percent right
Great tip. Will try it. I used to heat up casings on motorcycle sealed bearing replacements. Worked well
Could I deep freeze my wheel and have the bearing drop out? Serious question.
The other problem with the washer press is that as the washer is loaded it's going to deform and apply more force to the centre of the bearing, side loading and damaging the bearing. The load needs to be applied to the outer race.
That is a very good point, didn't think of that 👍
Are all the three hubs exactly same specialised wheels are same free hubs
Thank you for explaining this issue and saving us the hassle with cheap DIY solutions.
No problem, Erhan 👍
Where were you a week ago before i trashed my DT Swiss hub. I looked for these puller kits and only found the expensive ones till watching your video. Now I'm buying a hub and some pullers. Thanks for sharing, I've subscribed and will be checking out more of your content before wrecking more of my bike. Cheers...
Go chase the bin wagon, see if you can get it back 😂😂. There are a few mysterious things that separate the budding home mechanic from the pro, and presses and pullers are some of those mysteries. My channel hopes to explain some of those thinks. Welcome aboard 👍
wonderful video in which you answer all my questions.... just great, you can really feel the experience of failure and the search for a solution without compromise. i'm a total fan, thanks
Glad you enjoyed it, Yves 👍
If you're only going to replace a couple of bearings every so often, the choices are 1)pay a bloke or 2) get these cheap tools and diy.
Informative video, thanks
Hi Pigeon Poo, Agreed. Also, if you're only doing it every so often, if you're carefully, you can just knock the bearings out...... hub permitting.
Thanks 👍
I agree with bearing press recommendation, but not the bearing puller. I have tried these automotive/motorcycle bearing pullers and there are a couple of problems with these (poor overall quality and rough edges, the protruding lip which may interfere with preload pipe and damage it, the legs of the puller not suited for a bicycle due to not enough space to place them on most hubs) I had to return an expanding lip set that I had, it was causing too much damage and was very awkward to work with. Bearing Pro Tools sell pullers that are more suited for the bicycles. I should probably do a video on these. I am not affiliated and have paid money for my set, but it is more about the type of the pullers rather than specific brand. The main difference is that they are made from aluminium, bearing specific like the press set, and do not have a lip to grab the bearing.
Hi again Hard Work, good to hear from you.
*The protruding lip which may interfere with preload pipe and damage it*
Never do the collet pin up with a spanner, and use the smallest collet to prevent excess expansion beyond the inner bearing lip. As you can see at point 6:10 in the video, the collet is in place, hooked under the bearing, but it’s rattling around freely, this confirms it's not putting any pressure on the preload tube, and therefore won’t damage it. The key here is to use the smallest collet and expanding it to only hook the bearing, that is why I stress only doing it up by hand. Using a larger collet will fit too tight, and may catch the collet. I used the 12-15mm collet, rather than the 15-17mm, and that is why it rattles around, but still pulls the bearing. I have never damaged a preload tube using this method.
*The legs of the puller not suited for a bicycle due to not enough space to place them on most hubs*
I have pulled multiple bearings using this puller. I have yet to find a hub that it won’t fit. What hub did you have this issue with? Additionally, adding a slide hammer to the set is of little expense, and overcome this.
*Bearing Pro Tools:*
Yes, I’m aware of this brand, they make some good bearing pullers. Because of this, I meant to mention them in the video, but forgot. I like their wind-out product, but have had issues with their expanding product (slipped on me a few times). The main issue is that each of their pullers is bearing size specific, so you’ll need to buy a lot of pullers, at £16 each!
Thanks,
Jon
@@ribblevalleycyclist Jon, you may be right that the lips of the puller not necessarily damage the tube. But this is definetly a potential risk. By the way, I used a smaller collet and ran into a different problem - because the quality of the collets was so poor, the teeth of the collet started extending unevenly and one even developed a crack in it. I am sure it was only a matter of time until it would break off.
I think most mechanics will run into problems with most straight pull hubs and bottom bracket bearings, due to not enough space to rest the legs of the puller on. I had problems with a DT Swiss 350 straight pull hub. The whole solution felt flimsy.
I am sure Bearing Pro are not the only ones offering the same friction style collets, but I was unable to find competitors. They could have set their prices even higher due to no competition. But when I bought from them I only bought a set for my bicycle and so the set turned out to be relatively economical. In general, if I see value in tools I would never regret spending money on them. I see the benefits of this design in saving time and avoiding potential damage.
I have used the bearing pro tools ones for extracting bearings from the suspension of my mtb. Doesn’t work. You have to wack them out and you damage your frame. The aluminium expanders of the small extractors bend easily and brake of.
I like to use ingeniously in these situations, without having to purchase specific tools for situations which I can find relatively easy/cheap ways to overcome.
For the home mechanic, to remove bearings that have a spacer fitted, such as explained in this video, which cannot be easily removed with a punch and hammer, due to how the spacer is fitted.
In this situation, I find that just using something slightly tapered/small chisel that will fit through the inner of the bearing and using something metal, inserted the other way, such that the tapered item, will wedge itself inside of the far end bearing inner. Then the far end bearing can be knocked or pushed out of the housing, without causing any damage or issue. The opposite bearing can be simply knocked out or pulled out, using threaded rod and suitable spacers/ sockets.
Refitting new bearings is normally more straightforward. As others have said, If required for ease of fitting, cool the bearing before fitting, (putting in freezer or spaying etc) before attempting to fit and ensure that you only push on the bearing outer and in such a way that the bearing goes in straight.
Of course, common sense in basic engineering principles apply.
I also suggest, if you ride in the UK all year, or in similar conditions in other countries and your hubs/BB do not have really good sealing, I suggest not fitting low contact seals, unless you race and are happy to change them more often. 🙂
Had no idea you could get those kits so cheap. Thanks for sharing 🙏
Agreed. If you’re looking after a few bikes, it’s well worth getting these tools.
Love the video, you say don't replace removed bearings, I've been removing my red bones for my casters/ wheelchair basketball, removing seal and dry cleaning in acetone, leave to dry then a few drops of bones lube followed by rock & roll lube, then immediately put the bearings in the freezer overnight, take them out in the morning and they just fall back into the casters, I do the exact same thing with my spinergy wheels and I can't mess about with them as not cheap at around 2k a pair, point I'm getting at, I'd rather not use any tools at all, my casters spin for over a minute and one push has my wheelchair from one end of the court to the other, all with the same bearings cleaned and replaced for the last 5 years.
Keep up the good work 👏
Fantastic content for us home mechanics! So glad I found your channel!
Glad to hear you’re finding it helpful, Robert 👍
Good job. You are confirming what Reginald Scot said.
Hi Stan,
Glad you liked the video. The idea was to show how easy it is to use complicated looking tools, and prove those other methods are a bad idea. I saw the Reginald Scot/Hambini thing, let's hope they've put it behind them.
Thanks,
Jon
This is a really nice bearing installation set! I use exactly the same and it worked perfect both for pulling out (using 34mm socket) and pressing back my DT Swiss 240 hub bearings
I love it. Use it all the time. Got a few bearing videos planned for 2024, and these tools will play a big part.
I have same press kit, have used it from hub bearings, suspension pivots, headsets etc. In certain situations I end up needing some socket, oversized nuts, washers to get just the right pressure and depth. Oversized nuts or larger sockets come in handy to create space when you have to create a cavity for a bearing that you have to press out.
@drbobjohnson812 Great advice 👍
Man i love you for making this video, im a broke student coming from a not so rich family and recently my bearings in the freehub have stopped spinning as good as they used to, seeing the price of the bearing extractor from park tool made me really sad since im short on money but at the same time really want to ride my bike. I bought the yardwe bearing removal tool, so thank you alot for making this video.
And it's for this reason I make my videos. Glad it gave you some help.
@@ribblevalleycyclist I seriously wanna know how much park tool are overcharging.😅
Brilliant video - I love your no nonsense approach using real world experience! I laughed out loud for the “Frankenstein’s nose ring” comment! 😂
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
I had my go at pressing bearing and using sockets that are resting against the outer race has a high success rate. I don't know if there's a similarly successful DIY bearing puller, was thinking about using a circlip, but sometimes the gap between the bearing and preload tube is so small that probably it wouldn't fit anyway. So yeah, it's harder to substitute/bodge a bearing puller than bearing press. Great video!
another great vid...ive had new wheels recently but think when it comes to servicing the hubs I will do them myself
Glad you enjoyed it, Jon. With the right tools, hubs are simple to look after 👍
really telling it as it is, thank god you made these videos in time for my bearings to give out
Glad I could help
Thanks for a great and informative maintenance tutorial. This is one job I haven’t tackled but will do soon. If you cycle in & around the Ribble Valley I might see you out on the roads as I’m from the north of the county, Heysham.
Hi, If you use these tools, it makes the job that much easier. Also, if you have the tools, you're more likely to do the job when it needs doing. Good luck with it, and let us know how you get on.
I rode from Clitheroe to Heysham once, to catch the ferry to the Isle of Man. Had a great cycling weekend over there. On the way to Heysham, we bumped into Bradley Wiggins out on his bike 🤣
Surprisingly good content on this channel, even on the bearing topic. 🚲👍
Thank you, Gammelgemse 👍
Appreciate the recommendations on tools, I think those sets will work great for my needs. I didn't want to shell out the money on Park Stuff and I'm too proud to pay someone to work on my bike being a former tech lol.
I'm the same 🤣. Got a few videos planned that'll involve the use of those tools...... And will make the repair bill for those jobs a lot less!!
so funny. . i did the nose ring job. . but 3d printed the drifts. . thanks for the tip on the tool kit. great content. .thank you
A bolt just smaller than the inner diameter of the bearing is better than a screwdriver for tapping out bearings. It's less likely to skate around on the bearing when tapped.
Thanks for the tip, S Less 👍
Great video, however my axel won’t remove from the hub. It’s a vision team 30 wheel. I read it should be tapped out from the non drive side but it will not budge. Any advice?
Hi Tim, Been a very long time since I did a Vision wheel. Last one I did was a Vision 25 Rim QR. I recall you knock the bearing out by tapping the axle from the drive side. You took the freehub off, and then tapped the exposed axle. But it was a long time ago, and I may be wrong.
@@ribblevalleycyclist thanks, I’ll try the drive side instead. Not sure how much force I’m prepared to hit it with!
Also great video on the stuck pad axle on 105 calliper. I remember a bike shop once drilled mine out then used a split pin. I’ve got this issue again on a very old model of Hope brake and will see if this method is plausible
this is such a good video with lots of attention to detail. didnt even know there was a way to blind pull bearings without the slider hammer. this method seems way less likely to damage anything compared to wanking the puller as hard as you can
Hi TheLeesto,
Glad you enjoyed it. I think there is too much 'Smoke & Mirrors' when it comes to bearings. I wanted to show it's not as complicated as some would have you think, and the tools are affordable. Saying that though, I've seen a bearing manufacturer stick their name on that bearing puller and sell it for $199!!!!
This video came just in time as my rear wheel bearings started to feel grindy
Hello john, just watched video, its brilliant thanks 4 sharein your knowledge .just ordered the puller snd the press kits u recomend thanks
Cool. Let us know how you get on.
I have a basic press with not every beearing drift. I found 3d printing a drift will still work better than frankensteins nose ring if you don't have the right size on hand. Also 3d printed random softjaws for seatposts. My friends hate me because i am not printing figurines.
09:40 how about the penny bolted both sides, with the inner side a smaller nut than the outer side? maybe the penny presser will not move around, and stiffer to press the bearing?
To be honest, I just think using the right tool for the job is just a better way.
I did have the same experience and wrecked one of my hubs. Great video!
Interesting, Cosmicpapa. Thanks for sharing your experience 👍
@@ribblevalleycyclist first I pushed the bearings in an angle in and needed to tap them out again. In my second attempt I re-pushed the same bearings in which probably were damaged due to taping them out again. After 6 months my bearings lost balls and did completely grind the inside of my hub
@cosmicpapa Sounds familiar! Hopefully this video will help get the message out 👍
As i am debating to build my own wheels ...this comes very handy. Thank you 😉
No problem, Wyzo, glad you found it useful. Let me know how you get on 👍
Having used the ghetto methods for years, I'm convinced. Just ordered both sets!
Good for you, Ashley!!!!! Let us know what you think of the kit and how you get on with it. The press is super sexy....... or am I being a bit weird with that?????? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Thanks
Hi John,
Thanks for so informative 👌 yet restful video 🍻.
Have you had experience with internal hubs maintenance?
Internal gear hubs?
@@ribblevalleycyclist
Such a Shimano Nexus or an Alfine.
No, sorry not worked on a modern one.
@@ribblevalleycyclist
🆗️
The methods you dismissed work perfectly well for (older?) Campagnolo hubs, such as Mirage and Athena. Done it plenty of times. Also the old Mavic sealed bearing hubs, front and rear. I don't care about the modern hubs because I would never use them😂😂
Interesting info on the older hubs, thanks for sharing 👍
Hello. What material is the blue set of thrust bearings made of? Aluminum or what? Thank you
Do you mean the bearing press? Is so, it’s aluminium. 👍
@@ribblevalleycyclist Yes. Is it durable enough?
@forestdamian5601 Yes, no problem at all. You need to remember that although the drifts press hard against the bearings, there is no friction between them, so there is no wear. Some of mine are starting to lose their lettering, but as you can imagine, mine gets a hammering. You can buy this product with confidence 👍
Ok . Thanks for the answer. Good luck in the presentations, in the future
What a great video! Makes no sense to me buying a £400 set of tools for occasion use, if there are reasonable products available that'll last the half a dozen uses of it I'll have for it, that is a much better option. I could always sell them after and at least my depreciation is kept to a minimum. I would have otherwise just bought a new wheel or paid the local bike shop (although that's not a bad idea, since they are so few of them around these days even in the Ribble Valley, they need our support with small jobs so they are there when we really need them)
Agreed, the tools demo'd are perfect for the home mechanic that only uses them occasionally.
Yes, the bike shop stock in the Ribble Valley is bad. Clitheroe used to have three...... The Green Jersey, The Fell, and that other one that I can never remember the name of. I think the nearest one now is probably Skipton!
My front wheel is shot so thinking about buying the press and puller and having a go, started to strip down my wheel but the sleeve which the axle runs through protrudes out about 7mm from the bearing, any tips on how I progress Jon?
Is it a DT Swiss hub?
Great video - I have those same kits!! Any suggestions on over-axle press spacers and DT Swiss solutions?
They're great tools. May be worth speaking to Bearing Pro Tools about that.
www.bearingprotools.com/collections/dt-swiss-hub-tools
Can you use a bearing puller to remove from from the free hub?
Hi James, I've used this puller to remove bearings from Mavic, Falcrum & HUNT freehub bodies.
Thanks,
Jon
Thanks Jon - do you have time to do a video on it?
I’ve got a HUNT alloy gravel wheel in the corner of the workshop that needs new freehub bearings. Hope to get it done soon.
Been following you for a while as your channel is in great help for the newbie home bike mechanic! Would you have any recommendations for reasonably prices tools for extracting and installing Press Fit BB? Big brands have a significant price tag that discourages me to do it on my own, at the same time, I've build bikes myself and prefer to be able to service everything too. Thanks and kudos for your help to us all!
Hi Stoyan, glad you're enjoying the content. The press in this video will sort the bottom bracket for you, as well as most other bearings, so it's well worth having one. With regard to knocking the old one out, I know a lot of people have used this tool to great effect:
amzn.to/4b4kAql
Many thanks Jon! I'll check it out and report on my experience :)
Nice video, very informative. I think I'll be throwing my Frankenstein nose ring out.. I think I only used it once on a headset but defo not worth the risk. Coincidentally, I recently watched a few videos where Hambini and Reginald Scot have been debunking each others bearing removal methods. I'm in Reginald's camp.
Hi archiecraig,
Oh, you have a Frankenstein nose ring!! Imagine it'd do a better job on the large headset bearings.
I thought about the Hambini/Reginald Scot 'Lovers Tiff' whilst I was editing this video. I've never damaged any part of a wheel using a blind puller, and that includes the very robust preload tube. The same can't be said about using the screwdriver method. So I can imagine you can work out what camp I'm in!!
Yeah, but Hambini is actually more right even if he's obnoxious about it. I don't think he's much more obnoxious than Reginald though. ;-)
Hi Jon - what did you use to put on the feet of the bearing puller?
I used this stuff:
amzn.to/3GK1mtq
Thanks Jon.
Brilliant video. Worth a sub ❤
Cheers, Phil 👍
@@ribblevalleycyclist i don't suppose you know how to remove the end cap on a SRAM x9 hub. One side is threaded and I assume the other is too but just rotates when one side is off. It's frustrating as I need to replace the worn bearings of my front wheel.
Is there a DIY bearing puller hack?
You see a lot of homemade pullers demo'd on RUclips. If you're working to a budget, and only need to pull one bearing, then it's worth looking at the tools offered by BearingProTools:
www.bearingprotools.com/collections/bearing-pullers-single
To put back in the bearing on the Mavic, you use to much force in the beginning. You have to go slow and strait and never press on the inner bearing ring !
Hi LhDiy,
I battled with that press setup for some time, and I also tried several sockets…. A sparkplug socket is a great fit for a 6902 bearing. However, it kept going in sideways. I kept an eye on it, and moved the home-made press where the pressure was needed, but it just slipped back. I didn’t show all of this, because who wants to watch that!!
Thanks for sharing your recommendations.
Jon
A special tool is always better, but for a pair of bearings to replace in the wheel every 2 - 3 years is to much for some. Thanks to know that are reasonably priced kits available online @@ribblevalleycyclist
Have you tried those in full suspension frame bearings?
I can't imagine either the puller or the press having any issues. After all, they're still installed the same way..... or have I got that wrong?
@ribblevalleycyclist The space to use the tool can be tighter
A piece of alloy rod and a plastic mallet for my extractions.
Really useful video. Thank you!
I liked this one too. Some lovely tools that most of us can afford, and make a tricky job simple.
10:00 use sockets from a socket wrench.
I like this guy!
Thanks 👍
Great video
Thanks!
I'm pretty sure you're stalking me. I've just had all of these issues on my Hollowgram 35 wheelset and I spent hours trying to work out whether it was good value to buy a puller/press when Chevin did it for £10 (bearings sourced myself from Bearing Factors in Nelson which is such a good place).
Yep, guilty as charged. Do me a favour, don't start thinking about a full Dura Ace install 🤣. Bearing Factors..... Will look them up 👍 Are you in that part of that world? If so, you're not a million miles from Colin Gardner, who is a very talented bike mechanic.
@@ribblevalleycyclist Bearing Factors are located behind Asda Colne/Nelson. They've got plenty of Weldtite products/Hope cleaning products etc. too (and the Squirt wax I couldn't get for ages). Yes, I'm located about as close to Thursden Valley Road Climb as anyone would want. Thanks for the recommendation although I have enough knowledge and ambition to be dangerous when it comes to maintaining our fleet!
Of course proper tool are going to be easier and work perfectly as intended. At least try better with hack tools, be extra careful and have a common sense not to go force crooked bearing in further!
Really useful info - Thanks!
Thanks, Rick. Glad you found it useful 👍
how bad is it to put used bearing back in
The force used to pull the bearing puts excess pressure on the individual balls, and may deform them. The only danger is that you're putting back in a potentially damaged bearing. It won't do any damage to the wheel, but the bearing may prematurely fail.
@@ribblevalleycyclist what your thoughts on extracting bearings periodically for a cleaning/regrease then? seems like doing blind pulls might ruin any longevity gained from cleaning. seems the consensus is to just replace em once they get gritty.
@wagwanyute8156 If you need to extract with force (puller or punch) then my personal preference is to replace. If the bearing is of above average quality, the internals shouldn’t get dirty too quickly
@@ribblevalleycyclist thank you
I like the content, and I like the style 🙂
Thanks, Christophe. I just try and be myself, and tell people what I think they should know.
Thanks for watching,
Jon 👍
The average home mechanic needs to remember, that before hideously overpriced blue handled tools, a 10" piece of all-thread, some large penny washers and a couple of jam nuts was a perfectly acceptable way of doing things...
Also, your washers were waaaay too thin, hence they deform and the bearing goes in on the wonk. The (admittedly very nice looking...) press kit you have versus the bit of stud and washers really only differed in the thickness of the drifts...
Hi Sam, thanks for your thoughts. The washers used were 1mm thick galvanised ones, so although they may look like they deformed, they didn't. However, I personally think that if I'd have used 15mm threaded bar as opposed to 10mm, there would've been less space for the bearings to go sideways. Also, maybe using larger sockets as drifts would've helped. So, I agree, there is room for improvement with my DIY press. But I still stand by what I say, the £40 press set is the better way to go....... and I suspect you'd agree 😉
@@ribblevalleycyclistoh absolutely, after all, as a mechanic, he who does with the most tools, wins, after all, right? HOWEVER. Devils advocate time. The washers are just not thick enough. If it came down to a one off use situation, a piece of all thread and some thick washers (1mm is NOT thick enough!) would do. I guess it's the difference between 'n00b' proofing something and not: it's all down to that mechanics 'feel' if you know something is lined up or going in right or not. The price you pay for that press kit to do the job without thinking about it, versus having those bits and pieces knocking around to lash together and make a tool to do the job, if you follow?
@@ribblevalleycyclist Also you can use the old, extracted bearing as the drift to press against the new bearing
I've been a home mechanic ever since I got my first bike as a kid; in my late 40s now. I've used the 'proper tool', and the DIY version and I can tell you are porpusely using the DIY version wrong.
"Porpusely using the DIY version wrong." Interesting allegation. Please expand on how I am using it 'Purposely' wrong, how you've come to that assumption, and why I would do that?
@@ribblevalleycyclistSorry for being so blunt. For example on the DIY press, just threating in the rod, throwing on the nuts, then just start screwing away will just yield the result you got, a skewed bearing. The DIY version requieres a bit more finesse than the 'proper tool'. You've got to keep an eye out for it to press the bearings in straight. Also adding some makeshift drifts wouldn't be a bad idea, like maybe a couple of sockets. I've removed several bearings just using a small hammer and a blunt rod to tab out bearings with no adverse effect on the hub. I wouldn't recommend a sharp standard/flat harden screwdriver to tap out a bearing, the screwdriver being sharp and harder that the alloy in the hub, will surely damage/scuff it if comes in contact with the hub.
You weren’t blunt, you called me a fake.
I did exactly as others had demonstrated on RUclips (I won’t name names). I battled with that press setup for some time, and I also tried several sockets…. A spark plug socket is a great fit for a 6902 bearing. However, it kept going in sideways. I kept an eye on it, and moved the makeshift press to where the pressure was needed, but it just slipped back. I didn’t show all of this, because who wants to watch that.
However, I agree with you, on reflection, doing as others have done and using a large screwdriver to remove bearings was a bad idea, and that is why I ended up unintentionally damaging a perfectly good hub. However, once again, I was testing what many so called ‘Experts’ on RUclips have both recommended and done, and it seems that I once again showed that this was a bad idea. Oh, and on reflection, a socket extension would’ve been a better choice of tool....... If you could get to the back of the first bearing in the first place (Pre-Load Tube).
The purpose of the video was to demonstrate how those ‘Bearing Hacks’ can be a bad idea, and how using the correct tool is a better option for the average budding home mechanic. Which is exactly what I did. Unless of course you think I’m wrong to do that, and those 'Hacks' are a better way of doing it?????
When was the last time you saw a professional mechanic use one of those things? There is a good reason they don’t, it's got nothing to do with price, it’s because it's a bad idea.
@@ribblevalleycyclistI apologize for calling you that, should have some other wording there. English is not my first language.
if I saw a professional mechanic use a makeshift/DIY solution on one of my bikes, I'd stop her/him right at the moment and take my stuff somewhere else; not that I regularly take my bikes to a mechanic anyway.
I do understand that even using the proper tool requires skills, can't have good results if you don't know how to use the tool. Using the screwdriver to tap out the bearing was actually what got me in the "he's doing that on purpose" mood. You don't take a hard sharp edge to a softer shell, that's like a big "No, no" in any situation. That's why I concluded what I did.
As per the DIY press, it takes me about 3 to 5 minutes to press a bearing in, and I already know which sockets, nuts and washers to use. With a real press it takes me maybe 30 secs.
Again apologize for coming across such a c*nt.
@c0olcast Let’s move on from it Fella, it’s all about riding bikes
Apologies if I bit your head off 😂
Hello? Was that hub really wrecked? Sure you have an ugly nick but why can't you just take a small curved file and smooth out the nick and press in the new bearing. Sure you hate to see this! After a new bearing is pressed in, if that "damage" is properly cleaned with a jeweler file, no effect to the function should exist. That is the beauty of a cartridge sealed bearing. The bearing balls do not ride past the damage! Freezing bearing and heating hub is a centuries old technique.
Hi Dan,
Yes, it is. Agreed, the side wall damaged caused by the bearing press hack could potentially be addressed with a bit of wet & dry. But the screwdriver has caused damage to the bearing seat. I thought I was hitting the back of the bearing with that large screwdriver and hammer, when in fact, I was smacking the back of that soft alloy bearing seat. There is little chance of that bearing now sitting either flush to the seat, or perpendicular to the other bearing. This will cause excess wear to both the bearings, and the thru-axle. And as I say in the video, why would you do it anyway, when the correct tool is relatively cheap, and easy to obtain.
In my opinion, it's not worth taking the risk.
I think I’d rather spend the £80 with the local bike shop and get them to do the bearings 😂
The LBS is a great place to spend money. More of us need to 👍
@@ribblevalleycyclist I’ve been super guilty of getting straight on the interweb as the first choice, but my last two trips to the bike shop has been a couple of £ cheaper than online AND I didn’t have to play the “am I going to be in when its delivered game”
Never had an LBS do any work for me ever. I enjoy learning.
I'm sorry, but you are way to enamored with your highly effective and yet far from perfect tools while giving only the crudest and most awkward use of often hightly functional "home brew" techniques. Carefully tapping bearings out works exceptionally well on way more than half the different hub systems and is even recommended by many high end hub and bearing manufactures like DT-Swiss. And, re-inserting bearings with a comercial bearing press and appropriate sized drift is still far from perfect with bearings still going cockeyed during the press process maybe as much as 1/2 the time. I would suggest that the most important part of installing a pressed in bearing is pressing it in stright, and a judiciously used hammer is better at this than even the high-end bicycle shop bearing press systems at getting the bearing started straight.
Hi Nelson,
Thank you for sharing your thoughts.
I’m confused, You describe my tools as “highly effective” but in the same breath you say they’re “far from perfect tools”.
I’m not saying that tapping bearings out can’t be done, What I’m saying is you can’t always do it that way, you may cause damage, and doing it with a bearing puller is the better way to do it.
I agree, inserting the bearing perpendicular to the hub is key. However, I’m not sure using a hammer is the best way of achieving that….. I assume you’re joking, right?
When was the last time you saw a professional mechanic use one of these ‘Home Brew’ tools, or worse a hammer, to install bearings? There is a good reason they don’t, it's got nothing to do with price, it’s because it's a bad idea.
The purpose of the video was to demonstrate how those ‘Bearing Hacks’ can be a bad idea, and how using the correct tool is a better option for the average budding home mechanic. Which is exactly what I did. Unless of course you think I’m wrong to do that, and those 'Hacks' are a better way of doing it?????
@@ribblevalleycyclist Sorry to be both confusing and negative. I appreicate your effort in communicating the art of fixing bicycles. It's a topic dear to my heart.
I'll try and answer your questions in order:
1) Bearing presses and pullers are highly effective tools. BUT, they do not always work. They are but two of the many tools useful in pulling and pressing bearings. And, they often fail to do their job and require other tools and techniques to either succeed or succeed without damage.
2) I liked a lot of what you said about pounding out bearings. But, it was implied that damage through pounding is likely and that bearing pullers are likely required most of the time. My experience is that, with care, damage from pounding is rare and the vast majority of hubs (and other bicycle components) do not need a puller to remove their bearings.
3) I am not joking about the hammer in the least. Just like doing body work on a car, you can pull and push the metal, but the really refined and controled shaping is done with a hammer with care. Bearings are similar. The outer races of bearings are hardened steel and tapping them with a does no harm whatsoever. And, by gently tapping at the right angle on the righ part of the bearing, one can gently ease it straight and into place with much more finesse than a press can, at least in the beginning while the bearing is fighting the initial line-up with the bearing seat.
4) The last time I saw a professional use a hammer was yesterday at work when I was replacing lower pivot bearings in a Santa Cruz Tallboy. . . actually, I take that back, I just used a press yesterday because the bearings were being cooperative. So, probably the day before while servicing some hub bearings.
5) I certainly appreciate your effort in showing the down side of the "home brew" techniques and the benifits of using the "right" tools. Valid points! The fault I find with what was presented was that there are also frequently times when those "home brew" methods and tools work as well or better than the purpose built alternatives, and I found the video did not acknowledge that. And in fact, it suggested that the purpose built tools would always provide better results.
In all, thank you very much for your efforts. It takes a lot of guts, time, and effort to put yourself out there and provide the service you are providing. Thank you.
I think the thing that needs to be considered here is the level of skill and what I like to call ‘Mechanical Sympathy’ of the person carrying out the work. Reading the comments, it would seem that the only people that, shall we say, take umbrage to me criticising the ‘Home Brew’ methods, are those that, it would seem, have a level of skill and mechanical sympathy. And this would therefore also suggest that it takes that kind of person to operate the ‘Home Brew’ method in the first place. Some may call these people “Fettlers”, they will happily fettle away for hours with the wrong tool, and eventually achieve a perfectly good result.
I aim my channel at the ‘Budding Home Mechanic’, that wants some help and advice as to how to repair their bike themselves. And for that reason, although I respect the alternative methods, I stand by my advice.
And thank you for your kind comments, I genuinely appreciate it.
@@ribblevalleycyclist I think you have a good point about "mechanical sympathy", if it is what I have always thought of as mechanical aptitude. There is no doubt that better tools almost always make a job easier, and less skilled/experienced technicians benifit from having an easier job, and also good tools to make it harder to screw up. That being said I'll have to take issue with your comment on fettlers, or maybe more preciesly fiddlers? I'm a production mechanic. I am all about speed and efficiency while maintaining quality. Removing a bearing with a punch is nearly always significantly faster than with a bearing puller. And, removing small suspension bearings with my "home made" bearing popper (made with pliers and pipe fittings) is also faster and safer on light carbon components than any comercial bearing puller I've seen.
So, I love "budding home mechanics" and your channel is a great and readily accessable resource promoting that. Please, keep it going strong. And, I will always be the rebel encouraging expermentation with creative ideas and the tools at hand. . . especially since I have all the fancy tools and appreciate their strengths AND shortcomings.
Couldn't you tap it with the screw driver slow down and take your time it's all in the fun of DYI YEAH JUST SAVE THE CASH AND SPEND THE MONEY TIME IS PRICELESS 🎉🎉
Think just doing it the correct way is better, and I also think this proves it’s easier
so what im taking from this video bikes are becoming and unfriendly to the owners and users as cars on the doing you own repairs
A bearing race performs similarly to cup & cone, put lasts a lot longer. Therefore less maintenance is required. The advances in technology means we need to maintain less, but use more advanced tooling when we do.
just put the bearing freezer and heat up housing 50 c then put it in just that easy as a spindle mechanic you are doing all wrong
I've seen this done many times, but never with such small races as you find on a cycle wheel. I'm going to test this theory out, and if successful, will do a video on it.
@@ribblevalleycyclist thnx
Good Video but the sound of your clothing in the microphone is like fingernails on a chalkboard 😬
Thanks for letting me know Lee. I didn’t know about that, could you do me a huge favour and point out where in the video it happened. Could do with understanding what happened, to avoid it happening again. Thank you 👍
@@ribblevalleycyclist 9:30 is a reference and when greasing bearings/hubs
@@smshing_lee I see what you mean. It's a powered microphone, which means you can increase the gain at the mic end, and reduce the gain at the camera end. I suspect the gain is too high on the mic, so it's picking up every little noise. I'll have a look at it. Thanks again, really do appreciate it. 👍
Thank you for this! I have no immediate need to change my cartridge bearings, but want to educate myself for when the time may come. I have been deeply suspicious of all the “hacks” I’ve seen. As the saying goes- there’s nothing more expensive than the cheapest option. Thank you for letting us know about these reasonably-priced tools (which cost less than a single shop visit!) to do it the right way.
Glad you found the video useful...... "There’s nothing more expensive than the cheapest option". I like that, I may borrow it from time to time!!