Ultrasonic Cleaners - Tips For Cleaning Bike Parts - The New Creworks Mega Machine
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- Опубликовано: 4 июл 2024
- Ultrasonic cleaners. What technique gives you the best clean, what cleaning agent is the most affective…… And how good is the new CREWORKS 10 litre 240 watt machine?
The machine used in this video:
CREWORKS 10L - Mechanical Dials - 300W Heater - 240 Ultrasonic
Amazon - amzn.to/3sWoIZq
Creworks Direct With Discount - www.creworksequipment.com/?re...
Other machines:
3 Litre Version - amzn.to/44RpG6f
6 Litre Version - amzn.to/45Nx2Jm
Digital Version:
amzn.to/45I8pNE
Creworks Direct Website:
3 Litre Version - www.creworksequipment.com/col...
6 Litre Version - www.creworksequipment.com/col...
10 Litre Version - www.creworksequipment.com/col...
What cleaning agent can you use:
Viro-sol - Very Strong Citrus Based Degreaser - £14 for 5 litres
amzn.to/45Da07B
No Nonsense Degreaser -Alcohol based degreaser - £13 for 5 litres
www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsens...
White Spirit (AKA Mineral Turps) - £9 for 2 litres
amzn.to/3Pl0Y8E
Isopropyl alcohol (99.9% Pure) - £8 for 1 litre
amzn.to/44Tmzei
Methylated Spirit - £4 for 500ml
amzn.to/48hS30k
Chapters:
00:00 - Intro
02:03 - A look at the new CREWORKS Ultrasonic Cleaner
04:40 - What Cleaning Agents Can You Use
06:35 - What Cleaning Techniques Are There
08:47 - Cleaning
12:00 - How Good Is The New Creworks Machine?
13:15 - The Results
About Ribble Valley Cyclist:
I am a regular road cyclist based in the North West of England. I have been a cyclist my whole life, and try to get out every day. The purpose of my RUclips channel is to share the knowledge I’ve built up in my 40 years as a cyclist.
Follow me on Facebook:
/ ribblevalleycyclist
Email me:
ribblevalleycyclist@gmail.com
Follow me on Instagram:
/ ribblevalley_cyclist
See my routes on Komoot:
www.komoot.com/user/184990942...
Follow me on RUclips:
/ @ribblevalleycyclist
Email me:
ribblevalleycyclist@gmail.com
Audio credit:
/ audiolibraryplus
Additional footage from #RideShimano
/ @rideshimano
#bikerepair #bikemaintenance #roadbike #workshop #bikecare #wintercycling #review #cycling #cyclinglife #ribblevalleycyclist #roadcycling #creworks #Ultrasonic 
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This is probably the best cleaning maintenance video for drive trains that I have ever viewed.
Thanks Jazz👍
I use whitesprit, not in a plastic bag but in a glass jar with good results. I believe the ultrasonic energy transfer better in glass than in plastic and that is the difference. The black stuff in the white spirit will settle in the jar, if you leave it for a day or two, and you can filter the clear part through a coffee filter for reuse next time. Method is probably unsuable for a shop but for the happy DIYer it is a frugal way. I normally run a second bath with methylated alcohol after the white sprit to get rid of any oily residue from the white spirit before waxing the chain as last step.
Hi Jan,
Thanks for your thoughts. I suspect the white spirit technique has the potential to produce much better results than I saw in this video. I think a pre-wash would be a great help. Also, I agree with you, filtering the spirit and re-using it is a great idea. I've watched a video where someone distils it to clean it..... interesting!
Thanks for watching,
Jon
Not just frugal but much more sustainable. Disposing safely of white spirit is non-trivial.
I also use either a glass jar (preferred) or sometimes a hard plastic juice bottle (what I have at hand). I believe the ultrasonic waves propagate through a stiff material better than through a flexible bag.
In reviewing various methods, I believe an A/B test of Plastic vs Glass reveals that glass works better.
My primary use case is different: I clean pcbs and electronic parts in my ultrasonic cleaner - but I'm a proponent of the glass jar technique - get a glass mason jar, put your cleaner mix and the part(s) in the jar, seal it up and then lay that down in the basket and fill the tank with plain water. I believe the vibrations pass through the glass better than plastic. As far as my cleaning agents, I love simple green (safe on most surfaces), simple green pro which is supposedly less corrosive on sensitive metals, and isopropyl alcohol. I've also used my ultrasonic cleaner for de-rusting small parts via the glass jar technique and evapo-rust. Heat and agitation helps the evapo-rust work much quicker vs just soaking in evapo-rust.
I'm planning to get a 15L Creworks cleaner so I can lay larger pcbs down flat, so thanks for the impressions here.
thanks for taking the time to do this right. The video is very useful.
Glad it was helpful!
What works for me: pre-soak for 5-10 minutes in "white spirits" (odorless mineral spirits [OMS] here in the US). Ultrasonic cleaner at 40C (as hot as the tap water gets). Put the chain in a pint container about 6:1 mixture of hot water and soap-based degreaser (I use Zep, but don't use the purple; it will discolor aluminum; don't ask how I learned that) and let it go for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, open the pint container, rinse the chain and container, add another 6:1 mixture of hot water and Zep, and send it through again. I used to use the Pedro's 13 degreaser; it was better (I could use less), but it was far more expensive. Oh: after the second ride through the ultrasonic and second rinse, dip in rubbing alcohol for a minute; it helps whatever water is in the doings to evaporate away. At that point, the chain is clean enough for a paraffin dip.
Thanks, Jim, that’s some really good advice. I especially like the the rubbing alcohol idea, that’s genius 👍
@@ribblevalleycyclist yep, using the same IPA. Isopropyl alcohol. Not to be mistaken for certain kind of drinking beverage 🤣
Trying the baggie technique asap. Great video
I use that Screwfix degreaser - for a cassette it goes in an old 1l ice cream tub, some agitiation every now and then. For chains, pre-rinse/clean then agitated in an old jar (like a cook-in sauce jar), then left for a while (about an hour, say), then into a new jar with some more degreaser, but this jar has a shelf in the bottom. Same routine, agitate and leave, but this time any remaining crud settles on the bottom. Lift out the chain, rinse and dry, re-lube, done.
All works well but it is a bit time-consuming - which is of course why I'm looking at ultrasonic cleaners. I have six family bikes to maintain, which is fun apart from chore-y stuff like parts cleaning.
Thanks for the informative video - liked and subbed 👍
My brother does cleaning of automotive components. His experience is that professional degreasers must be used with caution depending on the material, time and temperature.
And I’d agree with him 👍
Thanks for the video, I find it very inspiring and useful with many tips. Just today I ordered my first ultrasonic cleaner - thanks to this video - and I bought it from Amazon here in Sweden. 10 litre seems a bit too much for mainly bike parts and 3 litre a bit small. There's a 6,5 litre Creworks version with manual dials that I hope will be a good compromise (size/capacity/price) and I bought that one.
Over the years I have collected parts from old bikes etc and I can't wait to put all those dirty old parts in the ultrasonic cleaner and see how they will transform and how they will come out. I will buy a cheap equivalent degreaser to the "No Nonsense Heavy Duty Degreaser" and try with that first, thanks to the good result with degreaser in this video. Now anxiously awaiting the delivery of the Creworks ultrasonic cleaner, that is supposed to be this Friday!
Hi Tubia,
Glad you got something from the video. Agreed, the 10 is a bit too big, and the 3 is a bit small if you want to do more than just chains. I too would buy the 6 litre with manual dials. My two main tips, degas and heat.
Enjoy!
Jon
Just bought a 2 liter 60w,, will also be useful for cleaning my fishing reel components amongst other things..bought it for cleaning bearings and small intricate parts metal cogs and gears
Would be nice to see an updated video with different different products 😁
Put your different items in ziplock bags (make sure bag is a decent size) with their specific degreasers than put them all in your cleaner with just water in it. You can clean different items with different solvents all in one cycle.
Diesel would be a good degreaser to try. I use kerosene all the time myself, very similar.
Thanx for the review! One suggestion for the soap approach is to use more soap. I use Dawn here in the USA and the Dawn web site gives me what concentration to use for different purposes. For medium cleaning, I use 100:1 water to Dawn. I would love to see the results from using Muc-off chain cleaner with the plastic bag approach. Muc-off is the best grease/wax remover for the clip-on type chain cleaners since it is fairly gentle and works as well as the industrial strength products.
Hi Tim, Thanks for sharing your thoughts on the Dawn product, I'll go look it up.
Although I don't activity recommend their products, I will admit that in some applications, their Drivetrain Cleaner is a good product...... as you say, when using it to clean an item that is still on the bike. You can even use it to remove grease and road film directly off a frame. If you look carefully in some of my videos, you'll see it on the shelf under my bench. Saying that though, I wouldn't bother using it in a bag in the cleaner, because it wouldn't be viable. Here in the UK, Muc-Off Drivetrain Cleaner costs £2.60p per 100ml. Compare this to a more powerful degreaser, which costs 0.33p per 100ml. The more powerful degreaser will do a much better job, at a fraction of the cost.
@@ribblevalleycyclist I agree Muc-Off Drivetrain Cleaner is not cheap. In the US, with a discount, it is £1.72 per 100ml (if my conversions are correct).
Some ultrasonic cleaners have a degas feature, which pulses the ultrasound. They're usually the more expensive brands.
I will say that with the cleaners, you need to look at the power per litre and not just the total power.
I've experienced inconsistent outcomes with my ultrasonic cleaner, likely due to its lower power compared to the model you reviewed. I appreciate the insight. Additionally, I've accidentally damaged an aluminum component by using an inappropriate degreaser. It's worth noting that heavy-duty, alkaline, and caustic cleaners designed for steel can negatively affect aluminum, even causing surface discoloration.
Thanks for your thoughts, Nicholas. Yes, I agree, you need to be very careful when putting delicate items in, which many people forget that aluminium is one.
Ultrasonic cleaners use cavitation to clean parts. Lowering the surface tension (like using soap) will improve performance.
The reason why the chain didn't work in the bag is basically just because of how dirty it was and the amount of liquid.
You could use a bigger bag or pre soak in white spirits or petrol and give it a shake.
Fairy washing up liquid is a product designed for food (animal) grease and relatively aggressive with bodily fats.
Nice video (watched all of it), but I came to see how loud the machine is :D Leaving without hearing it... :D
Oh, it's load..... You don't want to stay in the same room as it really.
This is a Quality how to video- thank you @RibbleValleyCyclist
No problem, Joon, glad you liked it.
I have been using that No Nonsense Degreaser for a while now. When I have finished
what I needed to zap in the Ultra Sonic Cleaner I get the used black liquid and pour it
into plastic takeaway boxes and let it settle and within 2 weeks all the crap has sunk
to the bottom and then the remaining liquid is ready to be used once again. And that
is a diluted mix. Try that out.
Hi Simon,
Great tip, I'll give it a go.
Thanks,
Jon
Thanks for another awesome vid!!! I clean my chains like you did with the plastic bag except I swap out the bag for a large pyrex glass measuring cup they say that glass works better then plastic in a us cleaner.Cheers!!!
Thanks, Glenn, glad you enjoyed it. Do you use a pre-rinse with the jar?
No prerinse here but i do 2 half hour cleaning cycles,10 min degas and 20min cleaning cycle using mineral spirits followed by a 5 min soak in methyl hydrate.but thats using shimano chains,Adam at zero friction cycles recommends 3 cycles for shimano chains and 5 cycles for sram chains(sram uses grease that sticks like glue)...Cheers!!! @@ribblevalleycyclist
Thanks for the info @glennmorgan8691 I also think it depends on how dirty the chain is. The chain I put into the bag was seriously bad! I do think the bag technique has a place, just maybe not on a chain that dirty 😂
Yes I agree with you there,I do the us cleaning on new chains then into the silca hot melt wax and us clean again before rewaxing(don't want to bring grit into my waxing pot).So my chains never get that dirty like if you had used wet lube on them before...@@ribblevalleycyclist
Hello Jon Thanks for this excellent video on ultrasonic cleaners. I am not a bike person but someone who is researching prior to buying an ultrasonic cleaner. I wonder if you could answer a couple of questions please. First are you still using the Creworks 10ltr machine on a regular basis and is it still performing well? I was very impressed with your results from this cleaner and am looking at a 10ltr or 6 ltr model. You gave the impression you had been in touch with the manufacturer for the loan of one so can you tell me if there is any UK support for this make as apart from the Amazon and some Ebay listings I have not been able to locate a distributor in the UK.
One final thing, one of the test items you placed in the tank was some screws with dried up loctite on them but you never mentioned how well they cleaned up. As this is the sort of thing I would be using a cleaner for I would be interested to know how sucessfull it was on them.
Thanks again for a very interesting video and keep up the good work. Regards John
Nice video, what do you think about cleaning sram AXS components or Di2 , also how do you know if a degreaser is really strong that can affect your components
My rule of thumb is that if it's steel, put it in. Chains, cassettes, fine. Cassettes with titanium I've not tried, I suspect it may tarnish the metal, but not damage it. Di2/Electric is a big no. Technically you can actually put electronic parts like PCB's into one, but I'm pretty sure a complete electronic component is a bad idea.
Thanks for watching.
Jon
White spirit has a very low ignition point. I used it once in my sonic cleaner and nearly set the garage on fire. Now I use a sonic cleaner with muc-off pink cleaner.
The point to understand here is the difference between a flash point, and an ignition point.
Flash Point - The flash point is the lowest temperature at which there will be enough flammable vapour to support combustion when an ignition source is applied.
Ignition Point - The temperature or self-ignition temperature, often called spontaneous ignition temperature or minimum ignition temperature.
White Spirit Flash Point = Between 21 and 55°C or higher
White Spirit Ignition Point = >230°C (>446°F)
In a ‘Normal’ workshop environment, White Spirit (AKA Mineral Turps) would need an ignition source to combust.
@@ribblevalleycyclist I agree 100%, however the smoke and flames coming out of the white spirit in my old sonic cleaner may disagree 😂
Which degreaser product do you think will provide the best clean? No Nonsense or Viro-Sol?
What would you reccomend for people who wax their chains (as opposed to oil)?
Viro-Sol is very strong, No-Nonsense is safer on delicate parts. If it’s just chains, Viro-Sol will do a better job every time.
Size matters - his new machine is more powerful than the older (smaller) machine [13:13].
Careful with that smaller machine a number have been recalled for safety reasons and mine came with an adaptor plug which did not connect the earth - I have since replaced with a correctly wired earthed 3 pin plug. Also care when cleaning your glasses in them only a few seconds is enough - any longer and you risk delaminating protective coatings…….
Hi Mike, You're not the first to mention the earth issue. I never use budget IEC leads, I just bin them and use my own. There has been mention that the earth from the IEC connection on the machine isn't connected internally. A thing I need to check before I use mine again.
I’m pleased you are aware. After fitting my 3 pin I have checked with a meter that the case is indeed earthed but will be cautious using it. Thank you for the test I am v happy with the bargain degreaser and hadn’t realised until I got it home that it’s to be diluted! Please keep the content coming. M
@MikeTheBike2010 Yeah, it’s good stuff. Not too aggressive either 👍
You said that a minimum of 30 watt per liter was needed in order to clean a chain, however the machine you are using is a 10L, 240 watts. Wouldn't that be just 24 watts per liter? If this is correct, then it looks like the 6L 180W would be the way to go. Yes?
Agreed. It is recommended that you have 30W per Ltr to guarantee the perfect clean. And agreed, the machine on demo here is under that. A machine of this size, that would run at that power would be very expensive. But a machine of this size will clean most things, even cranks and large MTB cassettes. If you’re cleaning just chains, get a smaller machine where the watts per litre can be achieved at a low cost. If you’re cleaning big stuff, this is a good option. Hope that helps.
Hi mate how much of that screw fix one did you stick in?
Hi, I did 50% degreaser, and 50% hot water. It was way too strong. I'd start with a weaker mix if I were you, 25% degreaser, 75% hot water. Make sure it gets up to temperature before you start..... say around 60º. Run the machine empty for 10 minutes (De-Gas), and then do two 10 minute washes with a shake in between.
@@ribblevalleycyclistthank you mate, will be sticking one on my Xmas list 😊
@@ribblevalleycyclist Is the quantity correct? If it's 2/3 full off a 10 litre, and you used 50% mix, it would be nearly 3.4 litres of the stuff? Something just doesn't sound right about that.
Great video! I am convinced. I can't find your discount code 😕 please help me😢
These are the best deals I can see right now:
The machine used in this video:
CREWORKS 10L - Mechanical Dials - 300W Heater - 240 Ultrasonic
amzn.to/3sWoIZq
Other machines:
3 Litre Version - amzn.to/44RpG6f
6 Litre Version - amzn.to/45Nx2Jm
Can anyone tell me if we can recover Rusty parts using a a de-rust or other agent in the cleaner ? Most parts we work on have both rust and grease present.
It’ll shift grease with a good quality degreaser, but from my experience, it won’t shift rust. I’ve put rusty parts in one before, and they came out as rusty as they went in. However, I’ve never tried one with rust remover in there.
So far my experience is limited to smaller parts (mostly fasteners: screws, bolts, nuts) but evapo-rust works great with ultrasonic cleaners for de-rusting those. I put the small parts in a glass jar filled with evapo-rust, put it in the basket, fill the tank with water and give it a good 15 to 20 minutes at high heat.
3:20 When comparing the large basket to a smaller basket it would have been v-useful to know the size of the smaller basket/machine. I'm guessing 3L.
Did I not say it was 3 litres? Apologies. Yes, you’re correct.
Hey man, i'm using SRAM chain, should I replace chain connector every time I remove my chain for cleaning?
If you’re using a SRAM link, then the official guidance is to replace it every time. However, few do. Most replace once it’s no longer tight. You may want to consider looking at the KMC links that offer multiple uses.
@@ribblevalleycyclist is there any reusable kmc link for 12sp chains? I only saw single use ones.
That is one mighty-big machine. 10L... Sheesh... Probably total overkill for me, or maybe not?
How about MTB cassette? 11/51T? Would that fit into the basket? Or you will need 30L version for such extravaganza xD ? Is 6L machine sufficient enough for roadie cassette?
I'm really surprised Fairy didn't do it's magic... My cheap solution is 2 solid table spoonsfulls of cheapest Tesco BIO washing powder plus boiling water. Straight from the kettle. My poxy, 2L cleaner doesn't even have heating element, so boiling water is a must. No pre-rinsing, no de-gassing (that might need to change xD ). Alternative is 2 solid squirts of washing-up liquid plus 2 splashes of kitchen, Elbow Grease de-greaser. Plus boiling water again.
Super useful video. Not sure SWMBO will be happy seeing me buying even bigger annoying noise making machine though xD
Cheers!
I.
Hi Ivan,
Yeah, she's a monster! Think I'll name her Big Bertha 🤣
Yeah, a 50 would fit in no problem.
I'm surprised by the washing up result too. I was actually wondering if a hotter mix would've helped things along, you've confirmed that. Also, that particular chain was the victim of Muc-Off oil, which is a nightmare to shift.
SWMBO.... Had to Google that one 🤣
@@ribblevalleycyclist how about BB running on half or 1/4 of tank full? Sure thing if you have bucketload of chains and cassette it would be criminal not to use it in full capacity. But if you only have like two chains and one small cassette? Do you always need to fill full tank? Or using in half or quarter cycle will be ok? Or not and can damage the machine? I'm not the most technologically minded, so genuine question...
@ivanjednobiegowiec7656 It’s a good question that if I’m honest, I don’t know the answer to. I have however thought the same thing in the past. Now I have Big Bertha, I should probably find out 😂. Or I could just donate her to the father in-law for cleaning carburettors
@@ribblevalleycyclist decisions, decisions, decisions 😖😁🤣
@@ribblevalleycyclistThe manufacturer of my 10L machine states you must fill the bath to top ( has a level mark).
Required for ultrasonic transducers to perform properly. I think the design power (size and number of transducers) is matched to liquid volume
Which machine is best for Cleaning waxed chains and cassettes? What size?
The smaller machines can give a better clean on chains, because they have a higher watt per litre output. The trouble is, the 3 litre machines will struggle to accept any cassette larger than a 28, and 30 is the new norm nowadays. If you're cleaning just chains, 3 litre, but a 6 litre will give you a lot more flexibility in what you can fit in. A 10 litre is a nice to have, but it's a big thing, that takes up a lot of workshop space.
Hope that helps.
@@ribblevalleycyclistDo you recommend to use it to clean a chain before re-wax it? And the cassette? Today a pour boiled water on the chain, takes some time to make in clean.
@johanpersson6706 Yes. This guy is well worth a watch when it comes to cleaning for waxing:
ruclips.net/video/Fp7pTrqrfNA/видео.htmlsi=VSzHF2wHbmdMq_F2
One sincere observation is that the older machine seems to be a generic copy of the well known DK Sonic brand. Could it being a non-branded copy be the problem with it not working as well as the new machine?
Yes, could be. However, the larger machine does have more transducers and a more powerful heater.
the key is to use a solution that does not cause hydrogen embrittlement, then you can;t beat sonic cleaners for chains casettes etc
Problem with household detergent is they have salt in them.
Whereabouts is the degas function on that model?
Hi John,
This machine doesn’t have a De-Gas programme. This is normal. Run the machine just as you would ordinarily, but without the parts to be cleaned. Running the ultrasonics will expedite the degas process significantly, typically down to 5-10 minutes. Alternatively, you can buy a machine with a De-Gas button…… which will do what I’ve just described.
Thanks,
Jon.
@@ribblevalleycyclistso degas button just sets a timer? And nothing else?
Hi Tõnu,
Some machines come with a ‘De-Gas’ function. The function will vary from machine to machine. The de-gas cycle on a standard machine will just run the machine for a short period, usually around 10 minutes. However, if you look at high-end machines like the RS Electronics unit, this will have a pulsating de-gas cycle. The gas will escape quicker between the pulses, and therefore the cycle can be made shorter. However, a machine like that starts at around £400 ($500) for a 3 litre, and goes up to £1100 ($1350) for a machine equivalent to the one I use in this video.
If you're looking for a machine to use at an industrial scale, then the RS Electronics is the machine for you. However, if you're just a home mechanic, then the machine I used is more than enough.
Hope that helps.
Jon
@@ribblevalleycyclist thank you for a thorough explanation!
No problem, Tõnu. 👍
What apron are you wearing, looks robust
It's the Muc-Off one. It's actually very good, and yes, robust. I got accused of being a 'Walking Muc-Off advert' because I use their apron and gloves. And as I'm not aligned to any brand, I removed the logo from the front.
This is it:
amzn.to/3SoGxup
cleaned parts get dirty faster than it takes to clean it
Fair point, Makan
Have you ever washed bicycle parts in a dishwasher? I saw a video of a guy who washed an engine block in he dishwasher and it came out looking brand new
No, I haven't. But I suspect they'd come out looking pretty good. I recently moved from a big modern house that had a brand new dishwasher, to a tiny cottage in the country that doesn't have the space for one...... So won't be doing a video on the subject any time soon 🤣
If you do try it, don't be tempted to economise and put your cassette etc. in along with the crockery and cutlery. I found that out the hard way and my wife was NOT happy. I had to scrub all the dishes by hand and the cassette and chain weren't even that clean :( Also, don't put your chain in the oven to dry it unless you like your food smelling of oil.
Try laundry liquid?
Worth a try. Thanks for the tip 👍
I didn’ think you used yhat much wash8ng liquid
petrol never had a problem 12 years. Another great one is Vosene shampoo remember how well it degreased your hair
Agreed, Mitch. Petrol or diesel is a fantastic degreaser/cleaner. Trouble is, I can never recommend it through my channel because it’s so volatile. Never heard the Vosene one before!! 👍
Lots of nonsense gets written. We have been using ultrasonic cleaner for cleaning industrial equipment and Power electronics for 17 years without problems. We use water 60°c and a strong detergent. We worked out how long to clean for i.e. not any longer than is necessary. But for the fine print do Test
Good advice, Michael. I do very similar, 60°c, and a good quality mild degreaser on bike parts works a treat. 5/10 minute intervals, checking in between.
Forget the white spirit in the bag
use good old fashioned degreaser in the bag
However if the chain / cassette is as dirty as the one you showed - shame on you - they should never be that dirty
Also don't fill the bag up with degreaser you only need to use a little
Was that dirty on purpose, Roy. Have been holding back on the cleaning of all groupsets, so I could get this video done and give the machine a real mountain to climb. After all, asking an ultrasonic cleaner to clean a relatively clean chain wouldn't be much of a test. To be honest though, the chain that went into the bag was really bad. Additionally, it was a Dura Ace chain, which is even harder to clean, and I used Muc-Off oil in order to make the chain even worse.
I think the bag technique has legs, but not with a chain like that. As I say in the video, a pre-rinse would go a long way in assisting.
Agreed, 1:10
We are very lucky down here in Australia as we don't have the weather conditions you have in the UK
to be honest a dirty chain for me is probably a cleanish one for you@@ribblevalleycyclist
They always go back to "The Big 3"......vinegar, lemon juice, and baking soda. Does it work? No idea.
Vinegar…. Probably, but it’d be bloomin’ expensive 😂
Lemon…….. Good idea that
Baking Soda…… Not sure about that
@@ribblevalleycyclist Lemon juice and baking soda plus water is great for your Camelbak reservoir.