Battletech: Crispy White ComStar Mechs, and the Trick to Making it Easy
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
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Today I go over a neat trick for painting white miniatures, and white armour especially. This isn't something new and groundbreaking, if you're a scale modeller, but for the world of miniature painting, it might be a surprise!
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Praise The Space AT&T
Also, this was a realy good tutorial
I came here to say this ^
Comstar: "Pay your damned long distance bill or we will stomp you."
"Pay your bills, F*cko!"
Once I started using oil washes I never looked back. They're so easy for such great results. Completely recommend.
Yay, I didn't realize the oil wash supplies were that cheap.
Yeah, the thing that puts most people off is they make the mistake of looking the tiny bottles of "artists mineral spirits" which are chemically identical to decorators white spirit.. but coat literally 10 times the price, for a tenth of the amount.
Now we are seeing Stu delving into the mechs, now we see how deep the hole goes :D
When I struggle to paint white, I get the wifey to donit for me! She has plenty of experience painting an entire cluster of Ghost Bear mechs! 🤣🤣🤣
ah that's easy just gotta find a wife!
@@patrickstar2027 I found mine through a furry boat party in London, I think I got lucky that she's probably into Battletech more than me!
I spray with primer paint and later apply with spray semi gloss white.
That fine edge work/weathering helps add to the character of the model. i.e., as mentioned earlier in the video, maybe that Highlander was discovered among a cache of mechs, and who knows how many battles it has been through. It's paint job would certainly be not as pristine as the day it left the factory, so a chipped paint of the edges would definitely be expected.
for 3d prints I like to use Eye Shadow sponges, all the joy of a Qtip, no strings/fibers left behind.
They are very good, but bulk ordering them often means going to the far East, so I tend to still recommend Q-tips when showing people the technique for the first time, purely for the convenience.
And about twelve cents each delivered in the US on Amazon.
@@TesseractMinis I get that, also prefer your previous method of adding a bit of blue to the black for a cold white but that's pure preference and what you are trying to achieve.
@@TesseractMinis Ya, the makeup brushes are featured by several US RUclips painters but I think I heard that the big thing is "Q-tips" that don't leave hairs behind like the ones used for gun cleaning.
For sure yeah, again don't read too much into this one mate. For you as an experienced painter, there'll be differences. This is targeted at a first time oiler though, so I've tried to remove any complications or unnecessary extra info :)
Thanks as always for your support mate, I really appreciate it!
I haven't used an oil wash but weathering wash (also a scale modeling product) seems similar in application. Especially if you want it "dirty". There is certainly something relaxing about being able to take off as much shading as you want instead of trying to apply just the right amount of shade and hoping it stays in place while it dries.
Yeah I think the biggest difference about subtractive shading is that the painter just has so much more agency over how it looks in the end.
Nicely done. I did a Grasshopper and Quickdraw for Comstar. Because they're not of any particular unit, I gave them bright gold for various parts with the stark white. Really says "We're Elite!" while keeping to the whole "We're Space AT&T. Pay your F@%&ing bill!"
I would say Clan Wolf Galaxies are usually one of the simplest to paint because they often focus on utilitarian colors if it's not basic wolf grey.
Good video. A trick we use in scale models. One thing you missed is to put oil paint on a paper towel to bleed out some of the oil.
So the short version...
Slather it hard in oil-based wash, then use oil paint thinner to clean off the excess?
You don’t have to buy oil paint and mineral spirits, you can do the same thing with nuln oil and rubbing alcohol. Gloss varnish -> Nuln Oil -> Q-tip with Rubbing Alcohol.
I'd imagine that the gloss varnish is not of the acrylic variety, but rather an enamel-type spray?
Great presentation and thanks for sharing! Can't wait to see what other tricks you have in your bag for Battletech minis!!??
Internet said turpentine substitute was the same as white spirit but it's not thinning the oil paint at all... just black paint in a clear liquid with no mixing...
This was fantastic! thank you. I'm about to do an all white lance so I can freehand cherry blossoms on them. I was trying to figure out how to not just make it look them like a flat blobs. this is how.
I'd love to see the results of that, once you're done with it. Sounds absolutely exquisite.
Got a bunch of mechs coming to me that I ordered off Etsy the other day. I was going to paint some of them in the red and black of the Skye Rangers...might have to do this technique with them...
May have to try this, white paint is always a pain in the backside to make look good.. Cheers for sharing!
Call me crazy but I do white enamel coat first then wash with grey wash and clean up with cotton swabs. The oil base bottom coat works great when used an acrylic water based coat wash.
You saved my mechs
Nice work!
You know honestly this looks like a decent way to get a kind of muddy un-even grey as well.
I always use enamel/oil wash on mechs, my advice would be not leaving them drying for too long on 3d prints, especially enamels. Otherwise even white spirit would have problems removing it... For brighter mechs I try to apply the wash as clean as possible with sharp point brush, almost as a pin wash. Then move the overflow back into recesses with damp brush, not waiting for it to dry completelly. Even if you put gloss varnish before, scrubbing with a swab or paper towel could remove paint, or leave nasty fibers alover. The technique is great when you're aiming for dirty worn looking machines, though. MIG Oilbrushers work great for this! But, oils absolutelly need to be coated with varnish after - oil and white spirit leaves a film that would repel your later acrylic layers. So lot's of varnishing on the way :) Also I've noticed that white spirit can effect superglue, personaly I had some issues if i apply too much.
Nice to see someone else using rosemary & co brushes. They're pretty good.
I am currently embattled in a war if decision as to if I prefer RoCo or Reaper brushes. I've been using RoCo for about 3 or 4 years now and am an affiliate ... But the Reaper brushes do have slightly more useful geometry. It's a toughie.
@@TesseractMinis We can both agree that they are vastly better than army painter brushes, at least.
Hah...yes. To be honest I find them vastly better than most brushes. Even moreso when you consider the price.
Awesome video! I plan to do my ComStar mechs and will try out this technique. Do you apply the red and other edges/details after or before applying the matte varnish ?
That's right yeah - once you've applied any oil, you'll want to dry it and varnish over it, before applying any more acrylic at all.
>that bgm
it's like zaku aurelius,
but small...
(thanks for the tecnique btw!)
Really nice looking mech for 2 hours work👍
Awesome video, perfect timing. The wave 2 shipment should reach me soon... :)
(You very much got me with the quick and easy part. :D )
Very cool technique mate! Gonna have to give it a try
Did you rescale the STL btw? Looks huge in the slicer
I shrunk it down, yeah... Honestly couldn't tell you how much though 😂
@@TesseractMinis looks like at least 10mm scale in the slicer. Guessing 60% should be pretty close
He's ready to demand payment on your phone bill
Could you, after rubbing down the flat panels with a q tip, do a pure white dry brush as opposed to a pure white highlight?
Absolutely!
Nice video shy
Would love to try those brushes, I’m guessing you’re using the normal sable and not the red sable? Apparently regular sable is banned in the US for, I imagine, some dumb reason.
Yeah they're normal sable, which sadly isn't currently available in the US. I'm sorry!
Enamel panel liner is a thing
How do I adress painting Com Star units? I don’t have Star Com units 😂😂 but honestly, cool technique, I have a king crab just waiting to be inducted into the Com Star ranks.
I stumbles upon your video when looking around YT for things I need to get to finally starting to paint some miniatures. So my question is: Would you recommend that technique to a total beginner?
I wouldn't advise using it in your first few sessions - because learning to prime, basecoat etc properly is far more important.
But it's certainly beginner friendly, in so far as you could start using it as soon as you know how to do the very basics.
I am following this awesome tutorial for some of my own Comstar mechs. How did you weather the black parts? Also, did you touch up the tips of gun barrels in a metallic? Thanks!
Yeah just dots and dashes of greys or metallics for the black parts. I sometimes like to run a little orange or brown into crevices too (you can check my most recent Battletech video for this).
Daler rowney white ink.
Do you have the recipe you use for the white armor?
The point on brush size is so important.
I've been quite the fan of streaking grime and oil paints.
However, when I the rona year ago it fucked up my sense of smell and makes oil paints more so the spirit really strange like I can feel it in the air it's bloody weird.
Despite that I'm a strong supporter of oil paints and streaking grime etc.
It's such a good method that's too easy to overlook.
It puzzles me so much that there's a fear stigma attached to oils when they're SO much easier to work with than acrylics.
@@TesseractMinis honestly it's very easy just it sounds harder than it is. The white spirit scares alot of people as well "oh no it's toxic" "oh no it's flammable"
I go out of my way to recommend it to people.
Even streaking grime is amazing for vehicles, especially grungy looking things.
Seriously the way oils seek out recess' is like magic.
Good videos as always
"Pay your HPG bills, fucko."
-Tex of the Black Pants Legion
Seriously, ComStar is Space AT&T with a dash of KGB and a whole lot of Scientology.
Feh. Not as nice as the metal highlander. But that paint scheme...mmmmwah! Beautiful.
"Pay your bills, Fucko."
ok I gonna order a battle tech mech now and paint it with gunpla techniques and see how a all lacquer mini looks.
also just use mig panellinging fluid
Got any old metal figs.?
What are "decorator spirits" called in US or 🇨🇦?
It's just cheap white spirit from a hardware store. Mineral spirit is one of the US names.
@@TesseractMinis Ah those I know of! One more question (or a few) if I may: the red stripe down the front of the mech... is that inspired from some artwork or just an artist's touch? Have you done any other models in Comstar white? How do I replicate the weather-ed red stripe?
The stripe was just a touch I wanted to add for a splash of colour. The beauty of chipped striping in particular, is that you don't really need a methodical approach...just sketch with the tip of your brush and don't be afraid to make mistakes. So long as it looks like once upon a time it was a sharp line, you've done it!
This might sound like a strange question but have you started selling these mechs, and the 90 minute ones, on ebay? if not then there is someone selling painting mechs claiming they are yours
I have! Haha I was looking at my stock shelves recently and realised all these one offs are never going to look good in a force, because they're all different.
I'm moving the studio soon and one of the things I wanna do is try to make some Battle reports. With that in mind, it seemed smart to offer these back to the community, and use the money to fund fresh content!
@@TesseractMinis Thats okay then, glad its a legit thing. Wouldnt be the first time ive seen a seller claiming something that was not theirs
It's very smart of you to be cautious! eBay is definitely still a place where scams happen.
Where did you get this Highlander miniature? 👀
It's linked in the description :)
Gunpla panel liner pen?
Not accurate enough for my taste.
Lost me at having to mix paint. 😔
Mixing paint is a foundational skill, essential to development. I'd kindly ask you to reconsider.
I'll save you an annoying ten minutes... Its an oil wash...