3D Printed Carbon Fiber DRO Mounts - Finishing the Install and Testing
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- STL's and links: fpfdesigns.com/
Lisle Tap Socket Set: amzn.to/3WhvcOV
DEWALT Right Angle Adapter: amzn.to/4bdbXuo
Hex-Shank Mini Drill Chucks: amzn.to/3Qj3Iot
M4 Tap Set: amzn.to/3UAdrcE
Gray TPU: amzn.to/3QlAMfk
Black PA6-CF: us.store.bambu...
Outro music is "Quantum" by "Vapora", used with explicit permission from the artist. • Quantum
New videos published every Friday, featuring a new 3D printed functional object, how I use it, and design considerations.
The design depicted in this video is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License or other non-commercial license.
functional
print
touchdro
dro
fpf
lathe
Nylon
Carbon Fiber
PA6-CF
PM1440GT
precision matthews
1440
I use the cheapo childrens purple washable gluestick...I have used blue painters tape on a piece of glass, with the purple hairspray, I always end up falling back to the childrens washable purple gluestick
Loving the content!
Keep em coming!!!!
Box of a million from Amazon and you’re set forever. Washes off easy.
Acetone is no bueno. IPA to degrease.
I printed PAHT-CF on the engineering plate with Vision miner nano adhesive and 110c build plate this week. Sticks very well.
So far Vision Miner Nano has allowed me to print with PA string trimmer line on a smooth PEI sheet. I have a no-name brand nylon trimmer line benchie because of Vision Miner. The stuff is legit.
You mentioned my post about Acetone... I've been using Acetone on my smooth and textured PEI plates for years and have never had an issue with the surface softening or deteriorating. ONLY use Acetone on "real" (gold) Ultum PEI... DO NOT use on (fake) black or dark PEI, it will deteriorate and soften that instantly. If you read the chemical resistance data chart for Ultem PEI, Acetone gets an 1A rating which is the highest obtainable resistance at room temperature. Remember, I'm not talking about soaking the bed in Acetone, but just dampening a piece of paper towel and give it a quick wipe. While ISO does work, Acetone can remove oils and greases that ISO won't touch as well as removing plastic residues from previous prints that (again) ISO or soap won't remove. Hope that helps with understanding and dispel some myths. There's actually very few chemicals or solvents that can effect Ultem PEI in a negative way. Oh, and we're doing this wipe on a "cold" build plate, then heat soak if needed (always recommended).
I like that your channel is more of a "Here's what happened and how I got here" than a "How to" do this thing. It is very much in the same vein as Adam Savage's Tested. Keep it up. I'm pretty glad to see more of your project process beyond just 3d printing. Functional Making.
Adam's channel is great. Long time fan of his channel, and it's one of the many inspirations for my own channel.
You seem thorough in your pre-planning however I am surprised that you did not print a small drill and tap guide / block. It seems right in line with your leverage of technology to solve a problem. Although I do not have any practical experience 3D printing, seeing your design ability and skill set I would have thought it would be a simple thing for you to accomplish. Maybe there were circumstances that we did not see or you did not share but I think it would have been one more check to make sure it was correct. You obviously did it well without so it is a non-issue either way.
Don't regularly use bambu machines and don't know if tape is a good choice, but if I remember correctly bambu does leveling by probing bed with the nozzle which means you wouldn't need to do any adjustments to leveling to try the tape. That said for nylon I use G10 with Visionminer Nanopolymer stuff works great on all my printers.
Also in regards to the masking tape on a Bambu printer… glue adds some thickness and things print fine… tape would be a more consistent and harder layer than glue, but I think it would be worth just trying it and seeing what happens… it can’t go that badly at worst, and might work great at best!
My favorite item to use to add bonding strength after good cleaning is Aussie Purple Extra Hold Hair Spray when one is needed.
Ive had parts refuse to stick, in those cases I look to ensure Z height and plate level cal is on. I wash with hot water and dawn. I let sheet dry and use rubbing alcohol. I also will ensure roll of filament not defective and keep all rolls in a heated temp controlled Sunlu 3d Printing Mate holder, running for a minimum amount of time before printing starts to ensure no moisture issues. I find this improves all layers regardless of material used.
The PEI textured sheet shipped with Qidi smart series of printers rarely requires an adhesive. I frequently will use a 6-8mm skirt on larger objects where material may try to lift at the ends along with a light coat of Aussie hair spray. Qidi says to leave door n top open on some materials but if they are prone to warping door and top are left closed on larger objects to slow down cooling and warping effect.
I recently tried magicgoo, I have not used enough to form a final opinion on it. It does seem to work fairly well, but I think my Aussie purple hairspray performs better.
Enjoy watching your videos, you have amazing content! Waiting on newly ordered Qidi Q1 Pro to arrive, currently use Qidi XSmart 3 and a highly modified Ender3v2 with direct drive, the ender has been retired for now in favor of my Qidi machines which have an extremely high print success rate.
Been using the lightyear g10 pro surface on my X1C for the past 6 months. I terms of engineering projects when strength and dimensional accuracy are what matters I have 3 build plates that I use depending on which material I'm printing....
1. Lightyear 3D G10 Pro
2. Wham Bam PEX
3. Energetic Gold Textured PEI
In my experience, unless you're printing exotic filaments that are beyond the capabilities of the X1C these are the only 3 print build surfaces you'll ever need. I also own a bunch of plates designed for aesthetic prints where looks are more important than absolute dimensional accuracy and good adhesion across a wide range of materials.
15:18 a little 3d printed jig that your dewalt 90 sits in and then sits on the triangular ways would have been neat. Make it so it uses the flat ways too so then you could have popped the dewalt in otherside. Probably overkill but jigs to accomplish task are cool too. Much like the red thing is holding the reader in right spot.
Or better instead of making the hole punch just make it the jig so the tool Mount sets the hole position not a pinch then try to match it freehand.
I applaud how straight you did that 90 degree drill and tap. I’d have had to 3D print a tap guide, as I can guarantee I’d cock it up!
Or: at 15 minutes into your video where you are struggling to drill holes with a right angle attachment. Remove the Tailstock (easily done) and traverse the cross slide carriage all the way to the end of the bed and drill the holes with ease. I watch your videos for tips on 3D printing which are excellent, I have spent my life around machine tools so not trying to be rude about your methods.
My experience with acetone on smooth PEI sheet was that it made it brittle. It developed hairline cracks and then started breaking off in small pieces bonded to the print.
Isopropyl alcohol is surprising awesome and very cheap.
This will certainly occur with the PEI sheets that are not genuine Ultem PEI .... Ultem PEI is gold in colour, the cheaper inferior versions are generally clear or black.
@@hot_wheelz This was on my original Prusa MK2. I replaced the sheet (not a fun process) and stopped using acetone. Never had another problem. Eventually did MK2.5 upgrade and changed to flexible steel sheets.
I’ve been using the Bambu smooth PEI plate more lately. I like it for PETG and some ABS prints; sometimes they will stick TOO well to the textured PEI. Also, for textured PEI I’ve been using the Wham Bam! plate, and it’s been awesome!
I usually use hot water and dawn for a serious clean, but if it’s just a small area or some other small shmutz, I’ll just spray some 70% IPA on it and wipe with a microfiber. I would usually have 91% or above, but I’m forgetful and just haven’t ordered more yet lol… in fact, I tried to earlier but got distracted! Hooray ADHD and vodka lol
no need for glue stick with the engineering plate. carbon nylon sticks really well.
I would have used PLA for this it doesn’t warp and you don’t need the toughness of PA.
you could have 3d printed a sled to sit on the ways that held a guide for the drill. Probably not needed but if you wanted more precision thats one way to achieve it.
i used acetone on the gold textured plate from bambu and it messed it up so i had to buy a new one
never use acetone on a pei textured bed. It will damage it -- I've had drops of acetone leave permeant damage -- acetone is ok on smooth PEI, but never textured.
Too late now, but would you have considered printing up tap drill guides?
👍👍😎👍👍
FDM Nylon will creep eventually..
Did you print those parts just because you could? I mean, you have a milling machine. If you want precision, a printer is about as appropriate as a hammer.
That said, printing precision parts is an idea but I don’t believe that commercially available printers are there yet.
(No, I haven’t been following the series-RUclips suggested this video apparently because I subscribe to AvE, This Old Tony and Blondiehacks.)
3d printing has come tremendously far in the past few years. The latest machines from Bambu and Prusa both produce parts on par with modern CNC from an accuracy perspective. Obviously you're more limited in material choices than you are with manual machining or CNC, but nylon filament with carbon or glass fiber provides impressive strength and repeatability at a low cost with accessibility to the average 'maker'. I tend to choose 3d printing if I think the use case doesn't require the strength of metal. For example, in these parts, due to how most of the force is in compression, and how large the cross sections are in the other force directions, the Nylon with carbon fiber is likely overkill for the application. Yes, aluminum would be even stronger, but that strength just isn't needed for the cross-slide mounts. I did need to machine the carriage mount for the Z out of aluminum, and even at 1/4" thickness, aluminum in that application still flexes a bit due to the type of force exerted on it. The other big win for 3d printing, is fast and cheap prototyping. Most design shops, even if they produce zero 3d printed parts for production, are running a farm of printers for prototyping because the cost of the machines and material is a fraction of what their machining centers cost.