3D Printed ABS Car Parts - Corolla Fuel and Trunk Release
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- STL's and links: fpfdesigns.com
ERYONE Filament Dryer Box (SNAIL): amzn.to/46QUTaV
Super Lube Silicone Grease: amzn.to/3RxKH2G
Push To Connect PTFE Tube Fitting: amzn.to/3t2btqz
Hatchbox Black ABS: amzn.to/3TcpSek
Outro music is "Quantum" by "Vapora", used with explicit permission from the artist. • Quantum
New videos published every Friday, featuring a new 3D printed functional object, how I use it, and design considerations.
The design depicted in this video is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License or other non-commercial license.
toyota
make your own
filament
bambu
Part Number
64606-02080
64606
02080
as an auto tech for over 35 years seeing you design and make working car parts blows my mind. there are so many stupid plastic parts in cars today and seeing you fabricate some of them makes me wat to buy a 3d printer so i can tinker too! great hobby for when i retire!
You can also design your parts and have them printed in china for a couple of canadian pesos lol and commercial printers quality are amazing compared to FDM, also structural in the case of MJF/SLS nylon prints and resist high temps
@@daijoubu4529 right now it's just a hobby. Just discovering the world of 3d printing and cad. Don't really want to get too serious about the business part of it. Want to keep it fun
@@peterpeter5666 the fun part is designing your part, order them from china and receive them in 10 days and not having to worry about setting up the printer, calibrating, doing test prints, storing filament, etc. :)
Could you please list some of these plastic parts
I make replacement parts for cars out of ABS a lot. You may want to consider multipart assembly in your designs for things like this. You oriented properly to get a smooth cylinder which is good. Unfortunately for that part it means the tab holding the spring is printed in the weakest orientation, especially for something under constant sprint tension.
I agree. You always have to consider the direction of your layer lines.
I would prototype with FDM and send them to an 3d fab in china to have it printed with MJF/SLS which are isotropic
@@daijoubu4529 That sounds appealing, but how accurate will the dimensions be? Often you will have adjusted the dimensions of the print so it prints to desired size on your own printer with whatever filament you're using. There is no guarantee that this scaling will remain correct if it's printed elsewhere on a different printer with a different medium. How do you deal with this potential issue? I wouldn't want to have to have 2 rounds of commercial printing...
@@steveh8724 @steveh8724 so far all my prints from JLC worked on the first try, I had M2 2mm diameter holes and they came printed at 2.05-2.1mm? The manufacturer list +- 0.3mm/0.4% tolerances but so far all my MJF prints were spot on, from the time of order and getting the part, even with the cheapest $1.5 shipping option (under 300g and a certain size) I would get my parts in usually 10-12 days to North America, unless it gets stuck at customs. If you're in the hury, you can even ship by courrier for $20-30 and get the parts in days, just make sure to choose DDP so all duties and fees are prepaid.
What kind of replacement parts do you make
Did I just watch 40 minutes of a random guy creating a functional part that I won't need from scratch? Hell yeah I did. Super interesting, great problem solving skills, looking forward to more :) nice format
lol thx!
Honestly - sometimes you are so much about making it perfect it almost triggers me. 😂 I would have went with the first fit all the time. Keep up the great videos. Never thought about layer height impacting the surface finish!
Its a car part tho.... you need it to be to a t wouldnt you?
I would have gone with superglue
Congrats on the most upvotes. Did you get my reply via email a few days ago?
Most of the handles and such are made from ASA/PA. The ASA is a less tough version of ABS, but is far more weatherable (UV attacks the polymer). The PA, typically Nylon 6, is far more tough than ASA or ABS. So taking the two semi incompatible resins and alloying them together...makes for a good, tough and reasonably weatherable part for automotive. ASA and Nylon allowed typically makes a nice matt finish too.
Just some information for ya.
thx!
I think you would be better off redesigning the entire part including the arms to better fit 3d printing instead of trying to 3d print something designed for injection molding. The function of this part is fairly simple, so designing something from scratch fulfilling that function would leave a lot more freedom than trying to duplicate the original with all its injection molding limitations.
Love that you do true functonal items not desk ornaments
I have never printed in ABS before so found this very educational. What did I learn: 1. I need a dryer. 2. ABS needs to be ventalated. 3. Beta print in PLA and 4. The job may take several iterations and therefore, don't expect to be perfect the first time. I hope to learn some more, thanks for the video!
Not to toot my own horn or anything but I think this channel has some of the smartest viewers
Excellent video - probably the longest one that I've watched on 3D printing, and worth every minute for your detail on the design and printing learning process. When I've been making functional parts I've tended to go all in on the design, and then get frustrated at what doesn't fit. So you approach of modelling the key parts first, getting them right, and then moving onto the details is a valuable learning point!
This was the best description of one of these dryer boxes. Everyone else just talks about it, but you actually described what you liked, what you didn't and what you did to improve it.
thx. It's just a sea of people pushing sponsored stuff out there faster than they can even learn about it. Certainly not against sponsors, talking to a few myself, but it's just too much on many of the channels.
Regarding dryer boxes, it you're going to mod one with a new filament exit hole, consider placing it in a location (and perhaps with a custom printed piece to guide the filament) that allow the filament to come off the reel along a tangent to the circumference of the reel. This makes the movement of filament smoother with less friction and tendency to twist.
Congrats on 3000. Just found your channel recently and been watching your back episodes.
Really enjoyed watching the prototyping process and hearing your thought process on how to correct it. Very refreshing seeing a channel focusing on functional printing
Snail filament dryer... for Snail? As far as favorite parts of the video I liked the whole thing! Most useful I thought was mixing the two types of supports in bambu slicer... I didn't know that was possible, I use prusaslicer and creality slicer normally as far as I know those just do 100% trees.
thank you for showing all process in the honest way. a lot of interesting ideas could be implemented based on your experience. thank you.
The materials selection on automotive are such that time alone is the built in obsolescence factor.
With it being ABS, couldn't you print it in two halves with a plane cut through the main body and then perfectly join them with a dab of acetone or acetone/ABS slurry?
I mean instantiate the part twice, the first one exactly as now but sunk down into the bed, and the second rotated 180° to face down and lowered into the bed.
That was my thought exactly even before I finished watching the entire video. I just finished making a dust collector for my circular saw that needed a pretty funky connection…I wasn’t proud enough to try to make it fit exactly and ended up splitting it into three parts held with screws 😂😂😂.
With most modern slicers, like Prusa/Bambu/OrcaSlicer, they have tools right inside the slicer for cutting the model into multiple parts for printing (either for strength and/or to fit your printer’s bed). I think Thomas Sanladerer did a video recently.
@@zerog2000 You are right, he did. He explored features a lot more sophisticated than this model would need.
You are the first person I saw that printed such a complicated print well done big ups sir ❤
Congratulations on 3000+ subscribers! I have been watching you for a few months. I can't say there is any particular part of this episode I like more than the other, I enjoy the start to finish aspect of it, I guess. I'm new to 3d printing and I am learning, I find value in your channel every week. I am working on the design aspects myself.
If I have to model a complicated part like that, I will take a picture of it perfectly perpendicular to a DSLR with a long lens from across the room. You can then bring it into your 3d model and build the base off of that. Gives you a solid starting point for the rest of the modeling since most of the angles and fillets will be very close to the original part.
Really like your channel. I did some 3d printing in 2013 with a terrible printer from kickstarter, it turned me off completely that 3d printing would ever be usable. My opinions have changed, in part to your content. Thanks!
Nice design journey on this. I enjoyed the design iterations showing how you increased material in some areas demonstrating there is the one key difference between us as home diy fixes and industry is that we have the luxury of designing in more strength and as a consequence putting more material into a part as our focus is on maximum lifetime and strength, where as commercially every single cent of material saved is extra profit margin on a large production run.
I wouldn't have thought to use 3d printed spring hook/holders, or use super lube there. Thanks. Would you give us a 3/6/12 month update on how the part is holding up?
Great video. My favorite thing of this video was the attention to detail and not to get in a hurry when trying to re-create a factory part. I would like to see the measuring process that was used for the part. Great job and congratulations on your success.
Great video! I'd love to see more of how you measured the original item and then transferred those measurements into CAD. Ever try 3D scanning?
I’ve used ABS to replace tired plastic parts on the Tacoma for years. My favorite things to make are small plastic clips and screw backers that invariably fail when taking something apart. I can usually print these faster than the time it would take to drive to the auto parts store and purchase them.
I thought it was awesome to see the revisions made. I like the approach you took to revisions and test fits. I wish you could have show more of the CAD process, but that's a lot of footage. What program are you using to model? To me the mindset of seeing the part (as the part evolves) in CAD is always intriguing. Like you said you're under the constraints of the part which makes the dev harder.
I just stumbled on this channel with this video. It's really cool stuff. Thumbs up. 👍 my only critique is I wish there was more discussion on the reverse engineering of this part and the cad program used. So many questions, like how did you determine the diameter for the slot? What printer settings, infill etc... thanks for this video, coincidentally I belive my Toyota has the same issue..😂
this is the first video ive seen from you. I liked the breakdown process of how to not only make the part for 3d, but also improving on the design to make it stronger!
Next you'll be using the AMS on the Bambu to get the car and fuel icons onto the levers.
I must say you have a knack at working with cad program's . Wish i had that skill..Tinkercad is what i use the most and a couple others but Tinkercad is so easy to use. at first i thought you were going to use a scanner to scan the part and convert. It's nice to see others having to print some test parts as i do so i don't feel so bad in doing it that way.I found the video entertaining and informative. Thanks
When a piece is complicated as this one and doesn't have a good position for printing I usually try to split it in two parts that can be joined later using screws or glue. I like to avoid supports as much as possible
It was nice to see an actual comparison to normal supports and tree supports.
Another fantastic video. I really like that you share all the iterations to get the print perfect. I'm new to 3D printing and I get tired of watching what appears to be designers nailing it on the first try. It just isn't realistic. As far as this video, my favorite part was the whole design process. Getting everything to match that needed to match while adding strength where you could. Also learned more about ABS which I've been nervous about trying.
I like your design process. That always is the hardest part for me. “Where do I start 1st.” I always look at the whole instead of looking at it as small parts put together. I have ABS Filament but have not tried to print with it yet. I have tried ASA. Prints great, not sure which would be better for automotive use. Thank you for the video.please keep us updated on how it does in the heat and the tension it has all the time. Some of those part where very thin. That is what I always worry about when designing a part, “is it going to be strong enough to take the pressure?” Thank you for making me just try it, worst case I buy the OEM part.
Nice job. Curious about what you might have used to measure some of the difficult features, recessed bore and such. Perhaps you could keep this in mind when you are creating your next video.😂
Thx, again very informative and creative and I am really impressed with your patience. Like that you added a short video on the print as well before it was all installed, Great stuff
I'm glad I stumbled across your channel. I design and print exclusively functional parts and it's always nice to see how others approach the process. I also like that you're designing for 3d printing and not just copying injection molded parts - a pet peev of mine.
I'd be interested to hear how those spring perch tabs hold up especially since they're in shear. I probably would have added some ears with holes to the back and passed a 2 or 3mm bolt with a nut through for the springs to hang off. But if it works, it works.
Congrats of the successful ABS print, I've yet to tackle it, mostly because of the smell. Now I need to go check out your back catalog.
29:11 you show the back of the filament dryer and the bowden tube fitting you installed in it. Is that something you made? Or purchased? Im in the process of modding my Sunlu S1+ and need a fitting like that.
Nevermind.. if I just continue watching for a few more seconds, I get my answer...
ASA is the new ABS. It's a little bit easier to print, better UV resistance, and less toxic to print.
First time watching one of your Videos. I like the fact that you took the time to show the Complete process. From where the part goes on the car, to Design and Testing your design. Back to the completed installation of the part in the car. Maybe you have the name of the CAD software listed somewhere else but could you share the name and link for it? I also like the fact that use shared how you change the part in design and in printer settings. This is key. Thank you.
it's Sketchup Make 2017
The thing i liked most is taking us through the cad model... And want learn as much cad as possible to unlock more things to do with my printer
Hey, thanks for the video - i appreciated the thoughts about ABS prints and what you came up against trying it for the first time. Novel idea to utilize the radon fan/duct. I have one as well that i am considering using myself. It's right by my basement workbench. regardless i am waiting for my P1S to arrive and i want to print some ASA and ABS, and i know now that i can't just do it in my office that doesnt have windows.. :)
Daaang. This was quite an undertaking. Props! Also, I love Super Lube.
i wish i had the brains to design stuff like you do, it really gives me a headache when i see any 3d modeling program
That's what I would have said 8 years ago as well. Just start with simple stuff and the knowledge/skill just keep stacking up until you start tackling bigger and bigger projects. Thx for watching
Seems like nylon would be even better
I learned that printing ABS on the textured PEI sheet of Bambu should be fine. My P1S black friday order is still on its way and I was worried that I should have ordered a high-temp engineering plate with it to print ABS, but apparently you printed ABS find on the PEI textured sheet, so ... What I am still wondering though: what CAD program are you using. If it has been mentioned before, I missed it ...
Looks like freecad
Sketchup Make 2017
Learned a lot here, thanks for the video! I especially appreciate the care taking in prototyping before moving on to the next piece or even before moving onto the final material. I need to ramp up my own prototyping like this. I have a few questions, sorry!
Would you consider printing this part in PETG instead of ABS? The safe printing characteristics and cheaper cost make PETG a nice candidate - but perhaps I'm missing something.
Did you use "support material" for the support interfaces on the model? I'm sure you're aware of this feature within Bambu Studios and the "support filament" they offer. This would require a material changes during the printing process, which would obviously complicate things a bit more.
I'm hoping to recreate and re-pop some parts for vintage vans and motorcycles, watching you work on this was a real treat! Thanks again.
Who agrees with me? - that "tree support" difference just about DOUBLED the spring hanger from the previous try! Great support design and made a great difference. Very clean work. Great job!
I enjoyed watching the cad drawing portion of the video. I’m just starting in 3d printing, but I’ve always enjoyed the sketching/rough mock ups and fabrication of parts. Also, liked the whole thought process in making that part. Overall a great diy video, thanks for taking the time to make it.
Have often wondered how serious the fume extraction needed to be for ABS. Any changes needed for the internal temperature of the printer? And does the carbon filter do anything to mitigate the fumes? Interesting to see the iterations involved in matching sizes and changing materials.
For strength, I wonder if using a metal bolt would have been a stronger solution for holding the spring. Could cut some slits with a hacksaw at each end to make sure they didn't slip off.
loving these videos, been printing for years, but only just getting into CAD, and its nice to see how you approach the design process with 3D printing in mind, great help thanks
This is why I have been 3D scanning car parts, dealerships are robbing people, and I am selling them for crazy cheap.
3D Printing is a severely handy tool for things that are no longer available or are way, way overpriced. This part does not meet that criteria. You are going to spend a ton of hours designing it, plus the cost of printing it. You are now loosing money, presuming you feel your time has any worth. For a fun and casual thing, sure, personal satisfaction is always nice to have but this is not worth it for a commercial sale.
Now, the time you spend on this can be heavily reduced if you had a very expensive scanner, then again, that too is another cost to cover.
As far as part durability, PETG would be just fine for both heat and regular tension. It's not THAT strong to make this a real concern. ABS is a good and safe bet. Nylon would also work. Both have their issues in printing too.
One day, I do hope scanners come down to a more manageable level for home use but for now, they are still a notable cost for the average person.
Cool vid. I design functional parts as well. Nice to watch someone elses workflow.
You shouldn't need to tweak your model to account for ABS shrinkage. You can tune ABS shrinkage in your slicer. Typically 99.35% is the ball park shrinkage for most ABS brands.
By the way PLA has terrible creep. So for any application that has a load, PLA is not ideal even at ambient temps.
The process of figuring out what was done for injection mold vs function of the part was pretty interesting and I think often overlooked. Sometimes it can get tricky because engineers will kind of combine those features. Something may be required for the injection mold process but that can get rolled into functionality as well.
Hi there! For accurate design placements, I recommend taking a picture of the original part and overlay it in your modeling software.
Not sure if something like this is supported in your case, but I use Blender and you can import images as a plain and model it into an object. Sharing this info as I am currently trying to 3D print my own car parts as well.
I've made numerous functional prints to repair or create items that are unavailable, but never anything so complex in dimensional tolerance and with so many printing challenges. Well done.
The project was inspiring.
thx!
I mean, I love the video and everything, but this specific problem, the way it broke, was a perfect candidate to be fixed in 5 minutes by plastic welding.
That's friggen awesome. Toyota after 2000 is just not quite the same. This mechanism shouldn't be plastic. Toyota I am disappoint. It's really time for a consumer movement for maintainable cars. This disposable car business model is really bad for our pockets and would do much more for the environment than switching to electric...
Baking soda, super glue and some paper clips.
With these you can repair the old part.
I don't think I would have 3d printed the part.
As a video / fun thing - sure. But mentioning cost is silly ?
The cost has gotta be silly though. ($160 - cost of materials) / (hours spent measuring and modeling) … versus $ you make per hour for work.
Pay the $160 unless it’s fun / hobby / contributing to a global replacement part library.
Excellent Video. This is precisely why I bought the X1C to make functional parts with engineering materials. I’ve have extensive experience in 3D solids CAD but zero with 3D Printing. Currently I’m having a difficult time aligning a modifier (to increase the infill) to a feature of the model (hole) except by eyeball. Is there a snap feature.
zzz
This did NOT need to be a 45min video.
You're over complicating what's essentially a very basic part.
Key points to pay attention to when fabricating the replacement
1) KISS.... you know what the acronym stands for... follow it.
2) Only "critical" aspects need to be within a given tolerance. Those are injection molded parts, which have shrinkage, and mold wear and everything else that affects the tolerances. so trying to be too precise is a colossal waste of time and effort.
3) Your new part design should address the underlying issue that caused the part to fail to begin with. Simply reproducing the part isn't good enough.
Critical aspects of the design:
1) Hinging mechanism
2) Distance between hinge, and mounting points
3) Mounting locations
4) travel distance of fulcrum
That's it... the rest could be a solid block of ABS. as long as the latches can pivot, and the cable moves enough distance, and you can mount the thing, nothing else matters.
The things i learned were:
1. Thinking about which features on a part I'm copying are designed for functionality and which are artifacts of the manufacturing process that can be ignored.
2. Using the radon extractor to pull out ABS fumes.
3. Sketchup can do quite complicated small objects that would normally be handled by a parametric CAD tool.
It's nice to see someone printing functional stuff. That was what I bought my printer for.
I used to work at a company that did injection molding to make whole bumpers roof rails grills and everything for the automotive industry each individual part roll out of the mold after it was made was worth less than a dollar as far as the labor and everything that it took to make it the individual parts that is and they are charging per part like the plastic grills for the front of Ford trucks and things several hundreds of dollars for these parts that only cost them a few cents to make it's ridiculous they're charging way more than it would take to cover the overhead to make the parts they're just stuffing their pockets 3D printing is a more expensive method for making Plastic Products but it is easier to do from home I just think it's funny that the cheapest method is the one that the companies are charging the most for that part he's holding in his hand might have cost two pennies to make at the factory and the machine that makes them probably pumped out a few thousand an hour I also used to work at a fuel pump assembly Factory those things are also Dirt Cheap to produce but super expensive to buy for a quality Toyota fuel pump you're going to pay a lot
both your PLA and ABS profiles lack PA calibration (Pressure Advance) that's why the finish is so bad, on both filaments in my opinion. Orca has a calibration checklist in it to do this effortlessly so you can calibrate it yourself. Also ABS machines fantastically, I have no idea why it didn't occour to you to sand in certain points of the video. Is not that you are going to manufacture 10,000 fuel and trunk levers for 10,000 Corollas. And what happened in 34:28 is that you FORGOT to put supports on that particular print.
You don't need to keep ABS/ASA dry during printing -- it's not that sensitive to humidity, like nylon
Also, I find ASA better than ABS -- it's like a 2nd generation ABS -- for just a little more money, all the great properties of ABS plus UV resistance (maybe not that important for your use case, but in general important for cars and other outdoor components) PLUS styrene fumes are a little less noxious.
You can get a perfect, glass-smooth finish on ABS/ASA by vapor smoothing with Acetone.
Suspend the part in a relatively sealed acetone-resistant vessel (polyethylene for example) and gently heat the chamber so that the acetone boils and vaorize (be careful not to use an open flame as acetone is flammable).
Watch carefully and you will see it smooth perfectly before your eyes. If the acetone is vaporized in a cloud, the smoothing happens fast (a couple of minutes) and if you wait to long it will continue beyond smoothing to soften, pit or even deform the software (ultimately acetone can fully liquify ABS/ASA).
Remove from vessel and wait an hour or so until the surface rehardens.
If you need to touch up some spots, just wipe them with a Q-tip dipped in acetone.
Very informative video. I’m curious how you captured all of the angles and dimensions for the parts… fairly complicated, as you’ve pointed out. Thanks!
@25:10 Loved the part where you "tested" the efficiency of your fume extraction. To quote 🤢 "...within minutes the whole room smelled terrible" 🤮 Good to know a PVC exhaust system works that well. Would love to see a video of your fume extraction design and how it is integrated with your 3d printers.
Looking for the model for 3D printing for central dash frame of Mitsubishi Mirage 92 -96 anyone
You are using google sketch up! What version!? I tried using for 3d printing and shapes were never closed and gave up on it. Love sketchup though, modeled my whole house to every brick and board, pipe, and duct along with fully contoured property. Freecad has been a pain to learn but it makes good STLs
Good content, but the video gets a bit slow. Contentwise this is a 20 minute video done in 40 minutes. Try cutting it down further or write a script.
You could also have made the drying box and ABS stuff another video that you referred to instead
(But I acknowledge that this is my personal taste)
I work closely with a company called @Eibos and they have the Cadillacs of filament dryers.
My two cents about reproducing a stress injection molded part through a FDM 3Dprinting perspective: think about the function first. Don't try to make a perfect twin part because it will be weaker whatever the filament you use. There's a lot of chances you'll have to print it in several parts to get the best surface and strength. You'll probably have to beef it up too in some areas, because keep in mind injection molding is pressurized dense, plain, isotropic plastic while FDM is hollow, low density and not isotropic plastic.
Hi, could you explain why the top layer of your print presents many imperfections (at minute 32:04? I ask this question because it looks like the nozzle was very close in some areas and I'd like to know what causes them using this Bambu Lab printer. Thanks in advance.
If it's about cost, maybe a junk yard would have a crashed Corolla with the same part available for cheap? Pic-a-part places.
🚗💡 Loving the DIY genius at work here! Who needs the dealership when you can just hit print? 🔧🖨 Absolute legend! 👏My favorite part of the video has to be the design/prototyping segment - turning car troubles into a fun project.
Cool. Although I probably would have just gotten one from a wrecking yard. 🔧😁
Have you experimented with using lidar/3D scanning on a phone to get an initial model to reference/trace?
Great Job & skills. Excellent video & editing. Congrats!
I think what would be worth exploring is seeing if there’s a mold setting once the part is designed and start pouring aluminum!
I have broken the microwave door latches, and I find them online for 13 euro but they charge 19 euro for shipping!I turn on my solidworks software and design them and they work better than original...got the same thinking when designing them to improve the rigidity of the part upon the original!
Why don’t you just go to a salvage/junk/pick-a-part yard and get the part. There are hundreds of thousand of old Corollas that you can get the part from for cheap. Probably cheaper than your time and cost to print.
Nice video and part. Is that google sketchup you modeled that on? Thanks and keep em coming. Subbed. Also dont consider me for the dryer I only have resin printers at the moment.
man, with a part like that, i just redesign the part to be uglier and have the same function. that is clearly a part that was designed carefully by some person at Toyota that really cared about exactly how the lines looked. i'm guess the reference part was originally carved from wood by hand and then cast into resin to make the mold for the injection molding. i wonder how many tries until the draft angles were all just right? it would have been 100000 times simpler to just have two levers next to each, each with a bolt, the hooked on the wire with a return spring (like two handle bar brakes).
i like what you did with the support blend, Grid & Tree works !
Prusa slicers users call it Organic (i guess it sounds more sophisticated😁)
I very much enjoyed the video did not learn much because the way I do things is exactly 100% the way you do things right down to tube grease I have and the filament dryer and I came to the same conclusion for the same reason you did. It was reassuring that I’m not crazy The way I do things and the way I think it is the same way other people do it. Great job enjoy the video. I have a funny feeling when you do your version you use a new version number every time you make a new version like I do also. So if things get worse you know which version it went wrong on and you don’t have to start over.
just messing around tonight with my beginner printer, ender 3 neo that i received today, have been binge watching and your videos were best and to the point. thanks for the info and the the obvious reinforcement to be patient and check all tolerances.
My first attempts went pretty well making mounts for my govee permanent outdoor lights.
after that I need to make my lovely bride a new battery case for Scarlet her Pleo dinosaur that has been dead for a couple years.
Thanks for your videos and your willingness to share.
lol I would have tried to epoxy and weld it back with staples or something, or went to the junkyard, unless its a common occurence and often broken
That was super cool. Great process intuition. Thanks for making this video.
the best part about this.. is you could literally use some CF-ABS or even better material too - and never have to replace it again with a proper design change. Total cost would be some time and all -print effort - but then a part you'd never have to order again, or replace again.
I’m not decided witch part I liked most, the fact that you convert a part from scratch witch make ma curious about what methods you take to accomplish this “theme for a future video” or de fact that you can combine regular supports among. Trews supports i need to learn that technique.
if you take a few pictures with an element of fixed size, like they do in crime scene photos on the tv shows. then u can use those pictures as an import template to start the work from ;) a little trick i found when prototyping a drone part years ago.
also your abs is printed juust perfect imo.
I particularly liked the insight you brought to the placement of the exit and lcd on the dryer. Could not agree more. btw dryboxes are overrated
i would rather simplify the print and glue some parts together. but yeah, good vid, bookmarked!
In retrospect, getting a filament dryer from the same company that manufacture the filament you're using eliminates the spool size problem. Also in retrospect, do calibration tests for unfamiliar material so you can dial in your slicer settings without using so much filament. Preloaded settings aren't always reliable since not all filaments are created equally.
@functionalprintfriday I subscribed cause I was astonished on your design work and maybe you can do a design for me 😂🤞
Rather than using extensive supports, you can try cutting and printing the model in 2 pieces -- then use tabs (available in Prusa slicer) to align them together and "weld" together with acetone (see my earlier comment on acetone smoothing) -- acetone really welds rather than glues the pieces together
If my memory serves me well, in Europe, some companies like Bosch give free .STL files so you can repair your stuff !
I wonder if you attempted photogrammetry? This would have been an amazing application for it, or for any kind of 3d scanning. i doubt if Toyota ever had a digital model of that part at all. it probably started and ended production as a hand made model