I have to mention that while the app i used *might* be accurate I am not sure if your device's microphone might be accurate. We tried a few devices and all varied a little bit. So if you really want to get into this I would recommend something a bit more professional which we will do in the next update :)
Really nice video! This is an important topic and I 100% agree that loud printing just does not fly in the home. One of the things thats impressed me so much with the Flsun V400 and why no other printer has been able to replace it for me yet is how reasonable the volume is when printing at 600mm/s. It's not annoying at all to share a room with - Im often working at my desk about a meter away while it prints and its absolutely not a bother. So while the K1C was nice, its volume meant it had to go. Also I havent tried them myself yet, but I hear the Bambulab P1P/S/X1C printers are all loud printers as well, so they wouldnt work for me either. Keen to see if Elegoo's new fdm cube is any good. B'yeah, good stuff! Hope manufacturers can keeo the volume down on future machines. The S1 is a bit better with a muffler and some new profiles on the latest firmware, but its still insane.
Remember the fundamentals. You have energy in the form of sound waves, and you want less of that energy to get to your ears, so your goal is to convert as much of it as you can to anything other than kinetic energy (which in turn would make more noise). The gecko tape with the plate is a GREAT example of this. The plate can't vibrate as much as it would otherwise, so you're converting the sound to heat! I'm not smart enough to run the math on this, but that does mean there is a point of diminishing returns, as more heat means you'll get more fan.
New K1 Crealitor Printer - ended up sticking it on top of my fridge which is in the corner of my room, and from a external beams I hang my spare towel, which absorbs sound, using the sound recording studio principals or soft fiber sponge type materials. Absolutely insane volume right next to my laptop trying to concentrate - what was I thinking???
You can get very quiet air compressors. Perhaps one of them with a thin and wide nozzle would be better. Also more focused. Great video. Keep up the good work.
air compressors generally have very poor airflow. Like something rated to over a kilowatt will have the same airflow as a noctua fan. Printer fans work by pushing away the volume of hot air near the filament, this depends on displacement which depends on the volume of air being pushed out rather than the speed. We're measuring the air speed here because we can't directly measure the air flow, they are proportional however you do need high flow for cooling rather than high speed
Technically it's the same method we're using with the resonance chambers, I don't know if there would be much of a difference. But gotta try it first :)
Make part cooling exhaust circular located around the nozzle, push cold air from an air con into it. This way you can reduce the amount of airflow required to cool parts down.
You would not need that much flow if the coolant would be colder or have better cooling capacity, so maybe using very cold air could allow lowering fan noise?
I have thought about this, I'm not entirely sure but I want to try it. Fans work by basically just moving the hot air away, which is a lot faster than conducting the heat away. The problem with this is refrigerator compressors also make noise and are expensive, other options would be evaporative cooling (this would involve very humid air and not sure if that would affect part strength) or something like thermoelectric coolers which are notoriously inefficient but this definitely needs to be given consideration and I think I need to do it in the near future :)
Hey. Just a thought when it comes to the k1 or k1 max side fan. If there is a resonance then can we not add something between the fan and the side panel? Rubber standoff with longer screws? Or even some thin acoustic foam to put on the back of the fan. It should stop the vibrations. I have a k1 so I may try it at some point. But maybe you can try that? Thanks
Parts cooling in the K1 Max really needs fans on both sides of the chamber, so what is really needed is a tuned airflow at maybe 80% of the speed of the stock fan but on both sides. That might be more effective but at much less noise.
I guess there are reasons, why _silent_ fans - use hydraulic bearings - are well balanced - use soft mounts - are *designed* for maximum flow/noise ratio The K1 Max fan sounds like it has d(r)ying ball bearings and simplest/cheapest impeller 😅 One might use medical grade commercial CPAP fan that does the job without waking up the dead (e.g. 12m3/h 67dB 10kPa at 60k rpm), or seat blower (it's a thing? e.g. 40m3/h 54dB, less pressure). Price is probably 10+ times higher too 🤔 With proper fan, the printer could be a lot easier on ears, and sound level could be further improved by using silent/smart fans for hotend, power supply and control board and by optimizing the flow within and out of the "external" fan duct.
Probably best to do what Linus Tech Tips did for a PC. Build some sort of sound Insulation box around the whole 3d printer. But it's a 3d printer not a PC, so that's a waste of time, just put it in another room like some even do with PC.
All the noise cancellation chambers you came with are designed the wrong way: sound / pressure waves are bouncing on the vertical wall of your designs. That wall should be 70mm *directly in front* of the impeller. Air flow bends, pressure waves bounce.
If only we could - we have around 26mm of space between the fan housing and the bed. I'm very tempted to just completely redesign the fan mount so the intake is on the exterior and then we can add the chamber instead of a long narrow one that is perpendicular to the direction of the pressure waves.
@@Chris-oj7ro For one serious suggestion, maybe half serious, what if you had liquid cooling for the part like a CNC does. Like forget about everything else, the nozzle the hotend, the electrical issues, would a cold liquid being squirted onto the part actually work?.....ok maybe quarter serious.
Not quite, it pushes the limit but yes print speed boasts are basically tag lines now, nobody prints 600mm/s on the K1, you'd have to be nuts. But you can print fast without a loss of quality.
![BabyChiefDoit - Too Slow (feat. STAR BANDZ) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zayaxws7RPg/mqdefault.jpg)
I have to mention that while the app i used *might* be accurate I am not sure if your device's microphone might be accurate. We tried a few devices and all varied a little bit. So if you really want to get into this I would recommend something a bit more professional which we will do in the next update :)
Can you please name the app?
For testing at home it's looking nice and cheap
@@berlinberlin4246 Its called "Sound Analyzer" on the Play Store
Really nice video! This is an important topic and I 100% agree that loud printing just does not fly in the home.
One of the things thats impressed me so much with the Flsun V400 and why no other printer has been able to replace it for me yet is how reasonable the volume is when printing at 600mm/s.
It's not annoying at all to share a room with - Im often working at my desk about a meter away while it prints and its absolutely not a bother.
So while the K1C was nice, its volume meant it had to go. Also I havent tried them myself yet, but I hear the Bambulab P1P/S/X1C printers are all loud printers as well, so they wouldnt work for me either.
Keen to see if Elegoo's new fdm cube is any good.
B'yeah, good stuff! Hope manufacturers can keeo the volume down on future machines. The S1 is a bit better with a muffler and some new profiles on the latest firmware, but its still insane.
Remember the fundamentals. You have energy in the form of sound waves, and you want less of that energy to get to your ears, so your goal is to convert as much of it as you can to anything other than kinetic energy (which in turn would make more noise).
The gecko tape with the plate is a GREAT example of this. The plate can't vibrate as much as it would otherwise, so you're converting the sound to heat! I'm not smart enough to run the math on this, but that does mean there is a point of diminishing returns, as more heat means you'll get more fan.
New K1 Crealitor Printer - ended up sticking it on top of my fridge which is in the corner of my room, and from a external beams I hang my spare towel, which absorbs sound, using the sound recording studio principals or soft fiber sponge type materials. Absolutely insane volume right next to my laptop trying to concentrate - what was I thinking???
You can get very quiet air compressors. Perhaps one of them with a thin and wide nozzle would be better. Also more focused.
Great video. Keep up the good work.
air compressors generally have very poor airflow. Like something rated to over a kilowatt will have the same airflow as a noctua fan.
Printer fans work by pushing away the volume of hot air near the filament, this depends on displacement which depends on the volume of air being pushed out rather than the speed.
We're measuring the air speed here because we can't directly measure the air flow, they are proportional however you do need high flow for cooling rather than high speed
Well it's time to channel air from my ac into my printer I guess xD
Can you please test a active noise cancelling system DIYed in to the printer?
Technically it's the same method we're using with the resonance chambers, I don't know if there would be much of a difference. But gotta try it first :)
Before the muffler your side fan is much louder than mine. Sounds like bearing is bad.
You also need to make sure whatever solution you come up with doesn't interfere with the print surface.
That was a big problem for us. There is a gap of only 26mm between the side fan and the bed :/
@@3DJake_Official It looked close, but didn't realise it was that close.
Make part cooling exhaust circular located around the nozzle, push cold air from an air con into it. This way you can reduce the amount of airflow required to cool parts down.
You would not need that much flow if the coolant would be colder or have better cooling capacity, so maybe using very cold air could allow lowering fan noise?
I have thought about this, I'm not entirely sure but I want to try it. Fans work by basically just moving the hot air away, which is a lot faster than conducting the heat away. The problem with this is refrigerator compressors also make noise and are expensive, other options would be evaporative cooling (this would involve very humid air and not sure if that would affect part strength) or something like thermoelectric coolers which are notoriously inefficient but this definitely needs to be given consideration and I think I need to do it in the near future :)
Hey. Just a thought when it comes to the k1 or k1 max side fan. If there is a resonance then can we not add something between the fan and the side panel? Rubber standoff with longer screws? Or even some thin acoustic foam to put on the back of the fan. It should stop the vibrations. I have a k1 so I may try it at some point. But maybe you can try that? Thanks
Yeah that might help, maybe even a thick but low infill TPU gasket could work.
Parts cooling in the K1 Max really needs fans on both sides of the chamber, so what is really needed is a tuned airflow at maybe 80% of the speed of the stock fan but on both sides. That might be more effective but at much less noise.
Coming with K2 plus this year October release.
@@doorsbh Yeah, I have high hopes. Some folks have also modded the K1 Max for better parts cooling.
Maybe a combination of methods, or / and thermoelectric technology
I guess there are reasons, why _silent_ fans
- use hydraulic bearings
- are well balanced
- use soft mounts
- are *designed* for maximum flow/noise ratio
The K1 Max fan sounds like it has d(r)ying ball bearings and simplest/cheapest impeller 😅
One might use medical grade commercial CPAP fan that does the job without waking up the dead (e.g. 12m3/h 67dB 10kPa at 60k rpm), or seat blower (it's a thing? e.g. 40m3/h 54dB, less pressure). Price is probably 10+ times higher too 🤔
With proper fan, the printer could be a lot easier on ears, and sound level could be further improved by using silent/smart fans for hotend, power supply and control board and by optimizing the flow within and out of the "external" fan duct.
My 3D Printer is my workshop/ man-cave, problem solved. I have LAN points and WiFi out there as well, so no problem.
I wonder if the sort of turbine used on Turbos are quieter than fan blades
A bouncy castle fan outside the house using A LOT of ducting! Or active noise cancellation with some speakers.
I set the s1's max fan speed to 45%. It works fine but it's still about as loud as my x1c with all fans at max.
Foam doesn't actually do much of anything. Look into acoustic treatment for cars/speakers. The foil backed stuff.
Interesting! I'll try that.
Why not make a box with a wall of several Noctua fans on one side - and a tube to the current fan’s mount on the other side?
I'm not exactly sure if the noctua fans are powerful enough to push air through a small space like a tube. But we'll have to try it :)
Probably best to do what Linus Tech Tips did for a PC. Build some sort of sound Insulation box around the whole 3d printer. But it's a 3d printer not a PC, so that's a waste of time, just put it in another room like some even do with PC.
All the noise cancellation chambers you came with are designed the wrong way: sound / pressure waves are bouncing on the vertical wall of your designs. That wall should be 70mm *directly in front* of the impeller. Air flow bends, pressure waves bounce.
If only we could - we have around 26mm of space between the fan housing and the bed. I'm very tempted to just completely redesign the fan mount so the intake is on the exterior and then we can add the chamber instead of a long narrow one that is perpendicular to the direction of the pressure waves.
Thats why i still have my silend Ender 3 v2 noctua edition in my bedroom 😅
Use dynamat, not foam
Water cooling????
Hmmmm water part cooling... Genius!
@@Chris-oj7ro For one serious suggestion, maybe half serious, what if you had liquid cooling for the part like a CNC does. Like forget about everything else, the nozzle the hotend, the electrical issues, would a cold liquid being squirted onto the part actually work?.....ok maybe quarter serious.
3:24, Those are not sound proofing panels, those are echo reducers. You need thick sound blanket.
Aha! Thanks!
@@3DJake_Official No problem. Also thanks for the 5kg of filament you had delivered to me an hour ago! You guys stock some of the best stuff.
i think i have an idea :) will contact you if i dont forget it
Was ist daraus geworden?
what is the app you were using?
It is called sound analyzer app on the play store....actually you just reminded me of something that I need to explain. See pinned comment.
10:50 lmbo
I still think the uber speeds are overrated, the faster the things go the lower their quality is..
Not quite, it pushes the limit but yes print speed boasts are basically tag lines now, nobody prints 600mm/s on the K1, you'd have to be nuts.
But you can print fast without a loss of quality.