As a corporate event photographer and one who has shot a lot of award dinners, get the T3. Better in low light. I use the 16-55 2.8. The amount of people on stage varies too much and you never know how many until the get up there that primes may not be the best choice. Using flash during things like awards are always accepted. Also helps them know you took the shot(s).
Andrew yours is a good answer and is similar to what I do, however, the specific question was about whether to upgrade from X-T1 to X-T3 or buy the 16-55 2.8. Given these budget constraints, my best advice would be to upgrade to the X-T2 and buy either the 35mm or 23mm 1.4 depending on budget/preferred focal length. I think is the best option for low light given the budget constraints suggested in the question.
Hi I have an XT3 and I'm just looking for, ideally, an all-in-one lens I can use for events, portraits, and lowlight. Any recommendations? Note: I love that Fuji lenses are small and easy to carry, but if I don't need to carry multiple lenses, I'd rather not. Thanks! 🙏
Today I was taking photographs at an event of our society. I‘ve taken with me the 16mm f1.4 and the 35mm, the 56mm f1.2 I couldn’t take with me, unfortunately it does not focus anymore. But 16mm and 35mm works very well for me. And I‘ve switched both lenses as you Andrew have described in your video. It works very well for me. As amateur photographer I have just one camera, but by using this method I‘m able to reduce the risk of missed shots. Thank you so much
I completely agree with your lens choice. However, my OCD wouldn't let me throw the uncapped lens in a bag - even at an event. I roll with the XT2 + XT3 combo.
Double XT3 setup here. 50-140+23 f2 mounted always. Two bodies a must for me. I do concerts and quick lens swaps are less desirable in pitch darkness in a photo pit where you only get to shoot for 2-3 songs. Plus lots of sweaty people, close quarters, and splashing beer. Nice thing is you can copy/paste all camera settings from one body to the other using x-acquire so the interface is identical.
I have shot weddings and conference type events using the 56mm on an X-T2 on a sling strap, with an X100T around my neck. It worked well for me. I have not used my 56mm since buying a 50mm f2.0. I dislike how easily the aperture ring is moved from where I set. I have added a rubber band around the ring to help provide resistance, but that can get misaligned.
Try the LH-XF23 optional lens hood for the XF23 on the XF56. It fits beautifully and protects the huge f1.2 front element. Furthermore, for indoor events the X-H1 with its IBIS is a great camera.
For travel I use 18mm, 35mm and 90mm. But for events I tend to prioritize light gathering, so I much prefer to use 23 f1.4 and 56 instead. Even though my favourites focal lens are 28, 50mm and 135mm. For event I use x-pro2 mainly (waiting the x-pro3) but for travel I use my trusty and worthy x-t1 :). Cheers
I do almost stricly event photography, and have these two lenses along with the 35mm. This video has just cleared up so much confusion I've had on lens choice. I have the options but it's nice to be reminded just to keep it simple! I have the 8-16mm too, but I also find so much noise and disappointment in the shots I get with it with that 2.8 aperture.... Unless there is enough available light. But the 1.2 & 1.4 apertures almost always guarantee that I'll have sharp and creamy results. Great content on this channel, thank you!
It all depends what works for you and my favourite lens at events is the fuji xf16-55 because its so flexible without changing lenses and i use it especially where theres not alot of space where i carnt use my feet but i use my 2 favourite primes the 56 and 16 for more artistic shooting where the environment is more casual and relaxed.
I shoot events several times a year and choose my kit based on situation and, if travel is involved, hassle. For corporate events and conferences, I use the 16-55 and 50-140 with the XT-2. 2.8 is generally fine for speakers on stage and crowd shots, and as 99 percent of the photos will ultimately be used online, what little noise creeps isn’t an issue. Also, flash in these instances isn’t really a problem for social shots. My experience with weddings has generally been with smaller events, so I add my X-Pro 2 and use a 23/1.4 and 35/1.4. I have the 16/1.4 but I recently dropped it and haven’t tried Fuji’s repair service yet. I’d like to get the 56/1.2 but don’t know if I’d use it enough to justify the expense.
Pretty much how I shoot events love my 56mm though I often need to use the 90mm for a bit more reach... just the venues I'm at. You're right though it just doesn't cut it for light gathering and I seriously think an XH2 with a couple of stops of IS would help. I don't want those heavy zooms; it partially defeats the purpose of moving to Fuji. Light, responsive, versatile, and intuitive is why I bought into the system.
Excellent video! I have the identical prime setup - XT2 with 16 1.4, 35 2.0, and 56 1.2. I originally got it for street and family but it turns out to work really well for professional conferences/events. For the distances involved with a typical conference location with a reception area, the 16 and 56 give you just about full coverage, plus the ability to do portraits/headshots. I bring the 35 2.0 literally just for one shot where I’m exposing for projected slides and don’t want to have to get so close to the subject they can feel me breathing down their neck; otherwise it stays in the bag.
Hello! I am an event photographer and I would like to say with confidence that you can do great work with a HSS flash and a 16-80mm f4 or the 18-55mm f2.8-4 kit lens! Here's the deal. Learning how to use flash "the right way" you become a PRO in event photography without even need to use prime lenses! I can't switch lenses when I have to shoot a dancing competition and I run up and down while having just a few minutes to capture so many dancing couples! The best choice is to have a 2.8 zoom lens but when I started understand how to use the flash, now it's piece of cake!!! I have taken numerous photos at big halls or small private ballrooms. A zoom lens is mandatory and with a proper use of a flash you get stunning images with almost zero noise at higher ISO values!
Probably depends a lot on the type of event. I used to shoot with flash when I did weddings. You sort of have to. I do corporate events now, mostly. Flash isn't welcome, and I'm fine without it.
@@AndrewGoodCamera Exactly, it's nice to have options though because you never know what you may end up shooting! haha... Thanks for taking the time to reply! Your channel is really great with quality content and whatever you say is to the point! That is really helpful.
My set-up for social events: x-t3 with 23 1.4, x-h1 with 56.14, x-e3 with 16 1.4. Average of 60% the 23, 20% the 56, and 20% the 16mm. I use a zoom (50-140) only for stage works.
I used the F2 lenses (35mm and 90mm) in recent wedding and they worked fine. Sometime I had to underexpose and push shadow in LR to keep the shots sharp.
Agree with you 100%. Have the 16 & 56mm for ages, 90% of the time that's all I need. However, recently I still acquired the 16-55/2,8, mostly for video, course swapping lenses while getting the footage was really, REALLY cumbersome...
16 mm and 56 mm are also my current favourites. Just bought the 50-140 mm, but did not have the chance to try it out. Let's see if I will share your experience.
Wow! I just recently took the plunge of getting both these lenses within the last month! Lol... saw both good deals online - used of course. For some of the past gigs I've done, I've always used my Canon 5D3 or my Sony A73. Watching this made me more confident to use my XT3 and these 2 lenses if ever a gig comes up! :) Glad this old video of yours popped up in my YT homepage. Thanks!
I do prefer 2 independent cameras..actually. That is my setup, 90% of the time when in Low Light/indoors : Fuji with the 16mm ; Sony (A7III) with the 85mm f1.8 Or with more light : Sony with tamron 28-75mm f2.8 Nikon with tamron 70-200 f2.8
Interesting! I've been using A7iii with Tamron 28-75/2.8 for events and it's been fantastic. I've used 85/1.8 for extra reach and absolute darkness! Recently tried XT-2 with 35/2 WR and was pretty impressed by the performance. Not comparable in eye AF and hit rates, but it does very acceptable job so far. I'm thinking I'll get an XT-3 with 16mm/1.4 & 56mm/1.2 like he suggests. Not sure how quickly and accurately they'll focus.
Gugle Yuser hmmm.. Are u switching, or still keeping the Sony ? Cos if you keep the Sony u might be able to approach it like i do/did. I’ve compared both 35mm side by side (the fuji ones) ..and i must say that it’s a pretty hard decision. the f2 is really a more solid and quick lens, in terms of performance (namely AF speed) and form factor. the f1.4 on he other hand...has got a special look, imo. i was about to buy an used one , a couple of years ago, after a couple of gigs i did with it, and to my regret..i ended up passing on it. for working along side the Sony, though..i reckon you’d be much better off with the 23mm f1.4..or the 16mm, which are ..arguably..the best Fuji X-mount lenses. On the tele prime side, the Sony 85mm won’t have the 56’s look....but it is way faster to focus, and to use_ with its barrel embedded button. i can often focus and shoot single handed with my left hand, while holding the Fuji on my right hand !! ;) The 56 f1.4 AF speed is not that great..imo. that’s the main reason i stayed off of it. Plus..the Sony is basically half the price, too. On ~35mm equivalence focal distance, i don’t think you can beat the Fujis glass..unless u go for a WAY more expensive Zeiss, or a f1.4 Sony which is not that fast to focus either.. Everyone is talking about the new Tamron 35mm f1.4 ..although i believe it is for DSLR Canikon mounts. As i said....choosing between the 23mm Fujis is not easy..but hey.... those are 1st world problems!! As Andrew says : Kindness before cameras ;)
Though it was an outdoor event, the last outing I made I carried my XE-3 with 50f2 and X100F. The range was quite nice between the two and allowed me to get wide or close. It's cool to hear the different ways people approach the challenges of space. I do wish I was more like Andrew who "...doesn't miss shots" ; ) Can't say I'm that good because I certainly missed some with the XE-3.
X-T3 certainly makes it easier. But I also manually focus a fair amount. And saying "I don't miss shots" I just mean I don't miss the critical shots my client needs me to get. That doesn't mean I don't take bad shots. :)
ron3x I’m considering the viltrox to use on my xh1 or my xt20 in small concert venues. How do you find the focus? How does it handle low light? Thanks....
tiffany meeks auto focus on my xt1 is ok on bright or contrasty surroundings....it hunts on extreme dark situation, so I use manual focus some times...
I think you bring up a good point of multiple bodies vs lens switching. I've never shot an event, besides family ones, and I've found switching lenses makes me miss moments. I'm no good at anticipating the moment, though. If I had gone down such a route I'd probably would have gone with 2 bodies.
I learned from Nikon guys that the 24mm 1.8G was magic because it was such a sharp lens that it became your 35mm with a crop that still left you with a 12mp+ shot. If Fuji does redevelop the 18mm (28mm equiv) and it is as excellent as the 16mm, it will effectively be a 23mm (35mm equiv) in sport mode. Either way, go with a high quality wide and you can have your moderate wide covered, usually with the softer corners cropped out. Like everything in photography it's all about anticipating the end result by frame your subject the right way.
I've used the 56mm with my XT-2 but using with such big aperture as 1.4 makes lot of times my photos get misfocused because of the narrow depth of field.
I agree. When there is a group of people, I want to be shooting at f/4 or higher to get the eyes in focus - which is why I end up using a bounce flash.
Yes, I think multiple primes is the way to go. It's always hard to gauge how many extra stops a person needs. I'd ask the person to go to the venue and handhold some shots at slow shutter speeds to see what ISO setting, shutter speed and noise level is their minimum. Hopefully they don't need a faster combo than you, otherwise they'd need something like an a7ii plus a set of sigma art 1.4s 😬
I believe you need a backup body with you at all times. A dual harness saves lens changes and is faster (I like Blackrapid, though it's pricey). Only additional stuff is batteries and SD cards in a small fanny pack. Balances nicely and doesn't hurt my back.
Great video! I recently became a Fuji shooter and my 56 f1.2 and 35 f2 are wonderful! I do find the 35 not quite wide enough for some event-type work (large group shots, in particular). Definitely going to give that 16 f1.4 a try soon.
I only take photos of events in horrible light conditions, the 56 is the only one that I don't use, that focal doesn't work for me, I can't take groups or take close-ups, what I general use is 16mm 1.4, 35mm 1.4 and 90mm 2.0
I'd be more worried about dust on sensors transferred from the dirty rear elements as they will show up at f5.6 and up. Having said that, in low light, you'd be shooting at wider apertures and can get away with dusty sensors/lenses.
This is just the video I was looking for man. I used to shoot Sony. But I really wanted that filmic feel of the GFX. So I switched from my A7Riv. I love it. But I do shoot outside en inside events also. I have 16-55 2.8 and 50-140 2.8 also for XT4. But its not enough. The 56 1.2 is on my list for next month (no events now). The 16mm is interesting.
Good to see I'm not alone! I have a very similar set up - the XT-3 and the 56 f1.2 with the beautiful 18 f1.4. I have my Peak Design 6L sling ready to catch the lens on the change over - he, or she, who dares - wins!! :) Outside I could use the the 50-140mm all day.
Check out the Viltrox 85mm f/1.8 Comes in native Fuji X Mount and even has auto-focus. That is like a 128mm telephoto on an APSC. $400 lens new. Only downside is it is big and heavy.
I can’t believe it, but my 16mm 1.4 is my favorite lens for event photography. I always used to shoot at 35mm. I have shot more with this lens this year than any other I own. I just trust this lens! It puts you in the action. You have to be comfortable shooting close to people. When you say event photography, does that also include weddings?
We don't really shoot weddings anymore. Sort of got weddinged out. :) When we did, I relied more on the 23 1.4. I was always afraid to use the 16mm 1.4 with groups for some reason. //A
Damm. I was gonna buy a 35mm f1.4 for tight, low-light wedding photography. You just saved me $500-$600, because I already have the 56 and 16. Thanks for the advice.
Lately I've been thingking about which zoom lens would be better for Fuji system: Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 with adaptor or native Fuji 16-55mm f2.8, 2 stop of light diffirence and some focal length diffirence as well. Normaly I would prefer native lens, but Sigma did a great job and these 2 stops can be really helpful. Any thoughts on this topic?
It's a beautiful lens, but it's a beast. I had one briefly. If you'll be mounting or using as a shoulder rig, and if you won't rely on AF, I think it can work great. Wasn't right for me though.
Whoa! I cannot disagree at all with your choices! Why? Because I bought the X-T3 with the 18-55mm f/2.8-4 as a bundle (just 3months ago now) and soon after that, I bought the 16mm f/1.4. That lens is so incredible that I had to have the 56mm f/1.2, just for the focal length. I figured if the 16 1.4 was so good, I couldn't go wrong with the 56 1.2...and what a good decision! I should also say that I bought the 80mm f2.8 macro when I got the 16mm...sold the 80mm for the 56mm, because for less than $90.00 I bought the MC-EX16 extension tube to go along with the 56mm and BAM! Found out that I never EVER have to consider a macro lens again. Not only does it give me great macros with the 56 but when attached to the 18-55,,, WOW! Now for extreme macros, I did purchase a 4-4.5X macro...just to have.
I saw a video of a photographer using the XH2 for a wedding. And missing 50% of the shots. In video and in photo's. Did you experience this? I have the xh2 and I shot a few events. Not weddings. But still. Kinda worrisome. But I love the Fuji colors and definitely will keep shooting the GFX. But maybe the XH2 has a too small a sensor. I haven't experienced any issues and the XH2 blows away even the GFX100S. I am thinking of getting the XH2S also.
Hi guys... I have the 56mm 1.2 , but I choose the 23mm f1.4 instead of the 16mm f1.4 just because of the distortion when trying some closeup portraits... I will be glad to here your opinion... Thanks.
I've done the same with my nikon lenses for about 16 years now and they are just fine. Lenses are much stronger than people make them out to be. But of course i do baby them when im not on the job
If it has to be between the 16-55mm and the X-T3, I'd say the choice is pretty easy if this person already has the 18-55mm. To be honest, I'm not sure what the value is in the 16-55mm over the 18-55mm. No stabilization, it's big and heavy, and f2.8 really doesn't seem wide enough to merit the price difference or do indoor event photography. Speaking of which, unless it's paired with the x-h1, is there any reason not to choose the 18-55mm instead? I have yet to see a substantial advantage with its bigger brother.
I can't say if it's worth the almost 1000$ pricetag but the 18-55 is a bit soft wide open on certain focal lengths and obviously the fixed 2.8 on the 16-55 is nice to use it as a portrait lens if you only want 1 versatile lens and dont want to spend another 800 on the 56mm 1.2
Denae & Andrew but you do of course use the 23mm Squarehood on it usually? If you do I would not be concerned over lenses getting scratched at all, sensordust in the camera is another story :)
With primes, do you usually get enough time/space to move around and get your composition? Do you have to crop your images more? Asking for a friend, who finds shooting with primes for events pretty terrifying.
Dude! This is so funny...I just came to the same conclusions. A little bit of background, I was a long time Nikon shooter and would normally go with the standard 24-70/70-200 route for an event. Now normally I don't shoot a lot of events. So when I switched to Fuji, I went with a line-up of primes. I'm a portrait and architecture guy, so I've been thrilled! Naturally, now that I've switched, I've been asked to do a couple of events. The first attempt, I went with 2 bodies and did a lot of switching and fussing about. Not exactly a lot of fun. So for the second event I did a week and a half ago, I was contemplating borrowing the 2.8 Nikon zooms and going with the one Nikon body I still have. Fortunately, I just said screw it and did exactly what you did (well, I took 3 lenses, the 23 f/1.4, 56 f/1.2 and the 90 f/2). After all of that, I absolutely agree with you and don't really see that I was being penalized by not having a zoom. I agree with what you're saying about the 90mm, but I was forced to work at a bit of a distance on occasion and the 90 really helped. But overall, I think I would've been fine with even just the 56 and the 23. (I know you love the 16, and if I had the 16 I would've been equally happy...but I do love my 23 :-)
Yeah, I forgot to mention that for distances I have to use the 90mm f2 or my 50-140 2.8. Sometimes with the 2x extender. But that's for stage work, where usually there's enough light to make higher apertures ok. But a lot of the event spaces I regularly shoot in are more intimate, so I don't bring them often.
18-55 not adequate is an understatement. I would say unuseable at low light despite the OIS. Why? Because I use at least f5.6 to get some acceptable pics. Below f5.6 the performance is not really great in the sharpness department. So I use it as a f5.6 constant aperture lens and in good daylight this is fine. Otherwise get some fast primes or the 16-80. Yes the 16-80 starts at F4 but OIS is great.
Very helpful video! I'm a beginner and I own the 16-80mm and the 50mm, but would like to get something that gives me some versatility for street/landscape photography, and in low light settings. If it gives me some good flexibility for casually taking shots of family/kids, that would be a plus too! I'm torn between the 16mm 1.4 and the 23mm 1.4. Any thoughts/suggestions?
Getting slightly off the topic of low light, I'd be interested to know what sort of event shots you take with a 16mm lens on APS-C, as I consider my Pentax DA (APS-C) 15mm/4.0 far too wide for anything except capturing the entirety of a church, conference hall, etc. OTOH I find the DA 21mm/3.2 captures things like craft fairs very well, as it's wide enough to capture most or all of a vendor's table while not reducing the vendor themselves to insignificance, and will put small groups of people in the context of their surroundings while still keeping the people front and centre. (Then again, I'm an enthusiast rather than a pro, so I have the luxury of getting it wrong and lack of performance pressure.) That being said, my better half has a craft fair coming up this weekend, so maybe I'll go stick the DA15/4.0 on one of my APS-C bodies and see what the fuss is all about. I got the chance to play with an XT-2 a short while back, and if I hadn't already been invested in Pentax up to the eyeballs (and happy with what it does for me), I'd be going for it hardcore. Sadly, nobody's ever going to (be able to) make the 10-400mm f/0.9 rectilinear full-frame pancake lens that is every photographer's holy grail! :-D
I rented the 16-55 2.8 one time for an event with decent light, but still the 2.8 aperture wasn't enough. Now I own the 16mm 1.4 and 35mm f2 and I'm never looking back at the 16-55 2.8. Still want to rent the 56 1.2 to try it out sometimes during a similar event.
Hi, nice video, great lenses! Have you ever considered one of the Frii Design belt lens holders? Then the rear is not without protective cap and the position you grab your lens is always the same. Could mean even shorter lens-swap-times ;-)
X-T3 has better AF than X-T2, especially in low light but noise is pretty much the same. I sometimes shoot entire events with only the 23 1.4, but I surely appreciate the 56 when more reach needed. The 16 1.4 is indeed magical but the 23 1.4 more practical. Zooms are only useful when you can’t move yourself, like in performances in a theatre.
I don't use flash as much anymore. Almost never. The fun part of candid photography is shooting what I see. I don't like manipulating the environment or bringing attention to myself. That, and because the type of events I do they don't usually like it.
Very interesting, I use 2 X-T1s with a 23 1.4 on one and either the 35 1.4 or the 60 2.4 on the other, the 56 would be nice but haven't found myself wishing for it yet.
I use the Xt3 and Xt5 and have the xt2 as backup or for a second shooter but i also do prefer the look of the xt1 xtrans 2 sensor, i wish fuji would make an xt1 mark 2 with the xt5 body and processor but with the original xtrans 2 sensor, that would be magical
@@AndrewGoodCamera Yes I have the 10-24 and 55-200 for my X-T3. I really prefer the look of primes though, so I tend to use my 16 more, and if I need that bit of reach I use an adapted Nikkor 105 f2.8. I also have the 32-64 GF lens which I use on my GFX along with the 23 prime. Though I'm probably selling mt medium format gear.
When you swap the two lenses in low light, how do you handle the lowest shutter speed to avoid shake? Manually set 1/100 for 56mm and 1/30 for 16mm? Or go in the Auto ISO menu and adjust. It slows me down. Same problem exists with 16-55mm f2.8. Every focal length needs a different exposure. I wish Fuji had a menu option to automatically adjust it. With OIS, you pretty much get free of this and only need to consider subject motion, but too bad you have to settle for slower aperture. I guess using the shutter dial is the fastest solution when changing lens or focal length.
Well in low light I do it a bit different. I shoot wide open, with the lowest shutter speed I feel I can get away with and with fixed ISO at 1600. I realize that most of the time these images will be under exposed, but I don't worry about that until post where I recover the exposure. Since Fuji sensors are ISO invariant, recovering the exposure in post is no different than adjusting the ISO up on camera. So switching lenses is no issue with this workflow.
Denae & Andrew As an prosumer, I’ve been using the formula where shutter speed is 1/(equivalent focal length). I usually use auto ISO and put that in for my minimum ISO. Every time I change lens, I dive into the menu and adjust that setting. It’s slow. But I don’t shoot too many events. However, I’ve been thinking of getting a zoom for vacation photography because my family gets impatient when I switch lenses. Anyway, I wish I had enough clout that Fuji would listen to me and put the 1/(focal length) rule into the auto iso settings as a choice. If they listen to you, please suggest this to them for me. Thanks.
16-55 2.8 and 50-140 2.8 for most. If poor lighting/ night then I would take the 16 1.4 and the 56 1.2. Haha. Wrote this before I watched the video, great minds think alike!
@@AndrewGoodCamera it's lightening fast autofocus compared to the 56, even on the xt3. Plus you would rarely be using anything under f2 at an event, focus takes priority over bokeh, unless it was a set-up shoot.
the focus differences on x-t3 are almost too small to measure. And at the events I shoot at, I shoot wide open most the time on the 56 1.2 because it's so dim. It's not about bokeh. Don't get me wrong. I think the 50mm f2 is really fantastic. But I don't think it's better for event work, personally.
@@lilisakills I wouldn't shoot Fuji. I would shoot canon or Sony and get 2.8 zoom lenses. But if you already have Fuji, I would shoot with the 16-55 2.8 and the 50-140 2.8.
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As a corporate event photographer and one who has shot a lot of award dinners, get the T3. Better in low light. I use the 16-55 2.8. The amount of people on stage varies too much and you never know how many until the get up there that primes may not be the best choice. Using flash during things like awards are always accepted. Also helps them know you took the shot(s).
Andrew yours is a good answer and is similar to what I do, however, the specific question was about whether to upgrade from X-T1 to X-T3 or buy the 16-55 2.8. Given these budget constraints, my best advice would be to upgrade to the X-T2 and buy either the 35mm or 23mm 1.4 depending on budget/preferred focal length. I think is the best option for low light given the budget constraints suggested in the question.
In deed. Thats what I would do, too.
Or try to getting 2nd hand glass, too.
Sound advice!
PhotoTube thanks!
Hi I have an XT3 and I'm just looking for, ideally, an all-in-one lens I can use for events, portraits, and lowlight. Any recommendations?
Note: I love that Fuji lenses are small and easy to carry, but if I don't need to carry multiple lenses, I'd rather not.
Thanks! 🙏
Today I was taking photographs at an event of our society. I‘ve taken with me the 16mm f1.4 and the 35mm, the 56mm f1.2 I couldn’t take with me, unfortunately it does not focus anymore. But 16mm and 35mm works very well for me. And I‘ve switched both lenses as you Andrew have described in your video. It works very well for me. As amateur photographer I have just one camera, but by using this method I‘m able to reduce the risk of missed shots.
Thank you so much
I completely agree with your lens choice. However, my OCD wouldn't let me throw the uncapped lens in a bag - even at an event. I roll with the XT2 + XT3 combo.
Love the real-world professional insight, especially the comment about how you never took out the third lens and made do with the 16 and 56.
Double XT3 setup here. 50-140+23 f2 mounted always. Two bodies a must for me. I do concerts and quick lens swaps are less desirable in pitch darkness in a photo pit where you only get to shoot for 2-3 songs. Plus lots of sweaty people, close quarters, and splashing beer. Nice thing is you can copy/paste all camera settings from one body to the other using x-acquire so the interface is identical.
I need to get on your level when it comes to switching lenses. You should be a competitive lens switcher loll Great video man.
I have shot weddings and conference type events using the 56mm on an X-T2 on a sling strap, with an X100T around my neck. It worked well for me. I have not used my 56mm since buying a 50mm f2.0. I dislike how easily the aperture ring is moved from where I set. I have added a rubber band around the ring to help provide resistance, but that can get misaligned.
Try the LH-XF23 optional lens hood for the XF23 on the XF56. It fits beautifully and protects the huge f1.2 front element. Furthermore, for indoor events the X-H1 with its IBIS is a great camera.
For travel I use 18mm, 35mm and 90mm. But for events I tend to prioritize light gathering, so I much prefer to use 23 f1.4 and 56 instead. Even though my favourites focal lens are 28, 50mm and 135mm. For event I use x-pro2 mainly (waiting the x-pro3) but for travel I use my trusty and worthy x-t1 :). Cheers
I do almost stricly event photography, and have these two lenses along with the 35mm.
This video has just cleared up so much confusion I've had on lens choice. I have the options but it's nice to be reminded just to keep it simple!
I have the 8-16mm too, but I also find so much noise and disappointment in the shots I get with it with that 2.8 aperture.... Unless there is enough available light.
But the 1.2 & 1.4 apertures almost always guarantee that I'll have sharp and creamy results.
Great content on this channel, thank you!
Glad to hear this! Good validation for me as well. Cheers!
It all depends what works for you and my favourite lens at events is the fuji xf16-55 because its so flexible without changing lenses and i use it especially where theres not alot of space where i carnt use my feet but i use my 2 favourite primes the 56 and 16 for more artistic shooting where the environment is more casual and relaxed.
I shoot events several times a year and choose my kit based on situation and, if travel is involved, hassle. For corporate events and conferences, I use the 16-55 and 50-140 with the XT-2. 2.8 is generally fine for speakers on stage and crowd shots, and as 99 percent of the photos will ultimately be used online, what little noise creeps isn’t an issue. Also, flash in these instances isn’t really a problem for social shots.
My experience with weddings has generally been with smaller events, so I add my X-Pro 2 and use a 23/1.4 and 35/1.4. I have the 16/1.4 but I recently dropped it and haven’t tried Fuji’s repair service yet. I’d like to get the 56/1.2 but don’t know if I’d use it enough to justify the expense.
Thank you. Changing lenses could as fast as drop in a camera and picking another one!
Absolutely agree! I used the 50-140mm in a low-light event and 2.8 didn’t cut it. Now I always use my primes and swap lenses.
I use the same setup but I also carry the x100f. Works great!
Pretty much how I shoot events love my 56mm though I often need to use the 90mm for a bit more reach... just the venues I'm at. You're right though it just doesn't cut it for light gathering and I seriously think an XH2 with a couple of stops of IS would help. I don't want those heavy zooms; it partially defeats the purpose of moving to Fuji. Light, responsive, versatile, and intuitive is why I bought into the system.
Excellent video! I have the identical prime setup - XT2 with 16 1.4, 35 2.0, and 56 1.2. I originally got it for street and family but it turns out to work really well for professional conferences/events. For the distances involved with a typical conference location with a reception area, the 16 and 56 give you just about full coverage, plus the ability to do portraits/headshots. I bring the 35 2.0 literally just for one shot where I’m exposing for projected slides and don’t want to have to get so close to the subject they can feel me breathing down their neck; otherwise it stays in the bag.
Hey, new white backdrop! Always quite partial to your cool homemade shelves. Would love something similar to line the vintage lenses up on!
This was just temporary. Had the white background down for a shoot we were in the middle of. :)
Ah, makes sense. It’s amazing how quickly you become accustomed to the aesthetics of a backdrop!
Hello! I am an event photographer and I would like to say with confidence that you can do great work with a HSS flash and a 16-80mm f4 or the 18-55mm f2.8-4 kit lens! Here's the deal. Learning how to use flash "the right way" you become a PRO in event photography without even need to use prime lenses! I can't switch lenses when I have to shoot a dancing competition and I run up and down while having just a few minutes to capture so many dancing couples! The best choice is to have a 2.8 zoom lens but when I started understand how to use the flash, now it's piece of cake!!! I have taken numerous photos at big halls or small private ballrooms. A zoom lens is mandatory and with a proper use of a flash you get stunning images with almost zero noise at higher ISO values!
Probably depends a lot on the type of event. I used to shoot with flash when I did weddings. You sort of have to. I do corporate events now, mostly. Flash isn't welcome, and I'm fine without it.
@@AndrewGoodCamera Exactly, it's nice to have options though because you never know what you may end up shooting! haha... Thanks for taking the time to reply! Your channel is really great with quality content and whatever you say is to the point! That is really helpful.
My set-up for social events: x-t3 with 23 1.4, x-h1 with 56.14, x-e3 with 16 1.4. Average of 60% the 23, 20% the 56, and 20% the 16mm. I use a zoom (50-140) only for stage works.
Fringer adapter + Sigma 18-35 may be also an option to consider.
I’ve been practicing changing lenses like you do and I will be using this technique today, thanks for sharing
I used the F2 lenses (35mm and 90mm) in recent wedding and they worked fine. Sometime I had to underexpose and push shadow in LR to keep the shots sharp.
The 35mm F2 is one of the best fuji lenses for portrait shots imo. Its one hell of a workhorse
Agree with you 100%. Have the 16 & 56mm for ages, 90% of the time that's all I need. However, recently I still acquired the 16-55/2,8, mostly for video, course swapping lenses while getting the footage was really, REALLY cumbersome...
i LOVE the xf90 since i shoot with the xh1. its the most underrated xf lens
To be clear, I also love the 90mm. It's our favorite portrait lens. I just don't like it as much as 56mm 1.2 in low light. //A
I don't think it is underrated, it is pin sharp and has the fastest AF in the Fuji range.
It needs the stabilization of the xh1
Haha, I get a lot of panicked responses when my audience sees I don’t use lens caps and I switch lenses so frequently lol.
Haha. Yup
That's what the cleaning gear is for!
@@matthewwells1606 agreed!
I don't use lens caps or those stupid UV filter things. You pay for good glass ...trust it's quality and don't put crap in front of it
AcidicDelusion hood is all you really need haha.
Used X-T2 and the 85mm f1.2
And
Keep using the 18-55 on the lower end, which has more available light..while u save for a 16, or a 23mm.
I did an event with my Fujifilm. I used my 23mm f2, 56mm f1. 2, 12mm Rokinon, and my 18-55 zoom. It worked out very well!
Great video. Wow. I am a 35mm and 80mm guy. 24mm too wide for me.
Currently I use X100F + XPro2 w/ 16 and 56. I will experiment on your 16 and 56 one body combination thanks.
Happy to find someone using the same gear as me and sharing a positive review about it! I trust my fixed lens 16mm and my 56mm, they are the best! :)
Explain using 1.2 vs. 1.4 vs. F2
When and why you choose each rather than adjusting ISO
16 mm and 56 mm are also my current favourites. Just bought the 50-140 mm, but did not have the chance to try it out. Let's see if I will share your experience.
I forgot to mention that I do have to use the 50-140 occasionally in larger event areas. It can be important. But I only use it when I have to
Wow! I just recently took the plunge of getting both these lenses within the last month! Lol... saw both good deals online - used of course. For some of the past gigs I've done, I've always used my Canon 5D3 or my Sony A73. Watching this made me more confident to use my XT3 and these 2 lenses if ever a gig comes up! :) Glad this old video of yours popped up in my YT homepage. Thanks!
I do prefer 2 independent cameras..actually.
That is my setup, 90% of the time when in Low Light/indoors :
Fuji with the 16mm ;
Sony (A7III) with the 85mm f1.8
Or with more light :
Sony with tamron 28-75mm f2.8
Nikon with tamron 70-200 f2.8
Interesting!
I've been using A7iii with Tamron 28-75/2.8 for events and it's been fantastic. I've used 85/1.8 for extra reach and absolute darkness!
Recently tried XT-2 with 35/2 WR and was pretty impressed by the performance. Not comparable in eye AF and hit rates, but it does very acceptable job so far.
I'm thinking I'll get an XT-3 with 16mm/1.4 & 56mm/1.2 like he suggests. Not sure how quickly and accurately they'll focus.
Gugle Yuser hmmm..
Are u switching, or still keeping the Sony ?
Cos if you keep the Sony u might be able to approach it like i do/did.
I’ve compared both 35mm side by side (the fuji ones) ..and i must say that it’s a pretty hard decision.
the f2 is really a more solid and quick lens, in terms of performance (namely AF speed) and form factor.
the f1.4 on he other hand...has got a special look, imo.
i was about to buy an used one , a couple of years ago, after a couple of gigs i did with it, and to my regret..i ended up passing on it.
for working along side the Sony, though..i reckon you’d be much better off with the 23mm f1.4..or the 16mm, which are ..arguably..the best Fuji X-mount lenses.
On the tele prime side, the Sony 85mm won’t have the 56’s look....but it is way faster to focus, and to use_ with its barrel embedded button. i can often focus and shoot single handed with my left hand, while holding the Fuji on my right hand !! ;)
The 56 f1.4 AF speed is not that great..imo.
that’s the main reason i stayed off of it. Plus..the Sony is basically half the price, too.
On ~35mm equivalence focal distance, i don’t think you can beat the Fujis glass..unless u go for a WAY more expensive Zeiss, or a f1.4 Sony which is not that fast to focus either..
Everyone is talking about the new Tamron 35mm f1.4 ..although i believe it is for DSLR Canikon mounts.
As i said....choosing between the 23mm Fujis is not easy..but hey.... those are 1st world problems!!
As Andrew says :
Kindness before cameras ;)
Fastest lens swap I've ever seen Good stuff
Though it was an outdoor event, the last outing I made I carried my XE-3 with 50f2 and X100F. The range was quite nice between the two and allowed me to get wide or close. It's cool to hear the different ways people approach the challenges of space. I do wish I was more like Andrew who "...doesn't miss shots" ; ) Can't say I'm that good because I certainly missed some with the XE-3.
X-T3 certainly makes it easier. But I also manually focus a fair amount. And saying "I don't miss shots" I just mean I don't miss the critical shots my client needs me to get. That doesn't mean I don't take bad shots. :)
@@AndrewGoodCamera Oh, I'm just teasing. LOL!
I use two xt1 with 16 1.4 and viltrox 85 1.8.
I sometimes use my 35 f2 depending on the situation.
ron3x I’m considering the viltrox to use on my xh1 or my xt20 in small concert venues. How do you find the focus? How does it handle low light? Thanks....
tiffany meeks auto focus on my xt1 is ok on bright or contrasty surroundings....it hunts on extreme dark situation, so I use manual focus some times...
Great tips, I'll be implementing some of these ideas for sure!
I think you bring up a good point of multiple bodies vs lens switching. I've never shot an event, besides family ones, and I've found switching lenses makes me miss moments. I'm no good at anticipating the moment, though. If I had gone down such a route I'd probably would have gone with 2 bodies.
Very excited for the Viltrox 56mm f/1.4 coming soon.
It's about time we get some more AF competition.
I learned from Nikon guys that the 24mm 1.8G was magic because it was such a sharp lens that it became your 35mm with a crop that still left you with a 12mp+ shot.
If Fuji does redevelop the 18mm (28mm equiv) and it is as excellent as the 16mm, it will effectively be a 23mm (35mm equiv) in sport mode. Either way, go with a high quality wide and you can have your moderate wide covered, usually with the softer corners cropped out. Like everything in photography it's all about anticipating the end result by frame your subject the right way.
Ooh. I'll have to checkout that Nikon lens. I have the 24mm f2 and like it alot, but I didn't have that G lens on my radar at all.
I've used the 56mm with my XT-2 but using with such big aperture as 1.4 makes lot of times my photos get misfocused because of the narrow depth of field.
I agree. When there is a group of people, I want to be shooting at f/4 or higher to get the eyes in focus - which is why I end up using a bounce flash.
Would like it if you could follow up with another video, describing your camera settings for event photography.....Thanks, Bob
Yes, I think multiple primes is the way to go. It's always hard to gauge how many extra stops a person needs. I'd ask the person to go to the venue and handhold some shots at slow shutter speeds to see what ISO setting, shutter speed and noise level is their minimum. Hopefully they don't need a faster combo than you, otherwise they'd need something like an a7ii plus a set of sigma art 1.4s 😬
I believe you need a backup body with you at all times. A dual harness saves lens changes and is faster (I like Blackrapid, though it's pricey). Only additional stuff is batteries and SD cards in a small fanny pack. Balances nicely and doesn't hurt my back.
Still impressed in how fast you change lenses! I'm getting faster, but well...I guess I have to practise more :)
Great video! I recently became a Fuji shooter and my 56 f1.2 and 35 f2 are wonderful! I do find the 35 not quite wide enough for some event-type work (large group shots, in particular). Definitely going to give that 16 f1.4 a try soon.
I use the 23mm 1.4 (X-T1) and 35mm 1.4 (X-Pro1), but then I am used to use a single Leica M2 with Summilux 35mm and 50mm Summicron
I only take photos of events in horrible light conditions, the 56 is the only one that I don't use, that focal doesn't work for me, I can't take groups or take close-ups, what I general use is 16mm 1.4, 35mm 1.4 and 90mm 2.0
I'd be more worried about dust on sensors transferred from the dirty rear elements as they will show up at f5.6 and up. Having said that, in low light, you'd be shooting at wider apertures and can get away with dusty sensors/lenses.
Certainly
This is just the video I was looking for man. I used to shoot Sony. But I really wanted that filmic feel of the GFX. So I switched from my A7Riv. I love it. But I do shoot outside en inside events also. I have 16-55 2.8 and 50-140 2.8 also for XT4. But its not enough. The 56 1.2 is on my list for next month (no events now). The 16mm is interesting.
Good to see I'm not alone! I have a very similar set up - the XT-3 and the 56 f1.2 with the beautiful 18 f1.4. I have my Peak Design 6L sling ready to catch the lens on the change over - he, or she, who dares - wins!! :) Outside I could use the the 50-140mm all day.
Check out the Viltrox 85mm f/1.8 Comes in native Fuji X Mount and even has auto-focus. That is like a 128mm telephoto on an APSC. $400 lens new. Only downside is it is big and heavy.
I did a review of it.
First! Damn... Tats a swift lens swap
I work in the same way, allways use primes on the events, my work is with teaters and concerts and i nerver miss a shot.
I can’t believe it, but my 16mm 1.4 is my favorite lens for event photography. I always used to shoot at 35mm. I have shot more with this lens this year than any other I own. I just trust this lens! It puts you in the action. You have to be comfortable shooting close to people. When you say event photography, does that also include weddings?
We don't really shoot weddings anymore. Sort of got weddinged out. :) When we did, I relied more on the 23 1.4. I was always afraid to use the 16mm 1.4 with groups for some reason. //A
Damm. I was gonna buy a 35mm f1.4 for tight, low-light wedding photography. You just saved me $500-$600, because I already have the 56 and 16. Thanks for the advice.
Appreciate this so much! Thank you!
I like your videos, I like your style!
i like the new way of videos, cool
Thanks.
Sorry I missed it in your links and when you said it
Lately I've been thingking about which zoom lens would be better for Fuji system: Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 with adaptor or native Fuji 16-55mm f2.8, 2 stop of light diffirence and some focal length diffirence as well. Normaly I would prefer native lens, but Sigma did a great job and these 2 stops can be really helpful. Any thoughts on this topic?
It's a beautiful lens, but it's a beast. I had one briefly. If you'll be mounting or using as a shoulder rig, and if you won't rely on AF, I think it can work great. Wasn't right for me though.
Whoa! I cannot disagree at all with your choices! Why? Because I bought the X-T3 with the 18-55mm f/2.8-4 as a bundle (just 3months ago now) and soon after that, I bought the 16mm f/1.4. That lens is so incredible that I had to have the 56mm f/1.2, just for the focal length. I figured if the 16 1.4 was so good, I couldn't go wrong with the 56 1.2...and what a good decision! I should also say that I bought the 80mm f2.8 macro when I got the 16mm...sold the 80mm for the 56mm, because for less than $90.00 I bought the MC-EX16 extension tube to go along with the 56mm and BAM! Found out that I never EVER have to consider a macro lens again. Not only does it give me great macros with the 56 but when attached to the 18-55,,, WOW! Now for extreme macros, I did purchase a 4-4.5X macro...just to have.
Those extension tub e are vastly underrated
I saw a video of a photographer using the XH2 for a wedding. And missing 50% of the shots. In video and in photo's. Did you experience this? I have the xh2 and I shot a few events. Not weddings. But still. Kinda worrisome. But I love the Fuji colors and definitely will keep shooting the GFX. But maybe the XH2 has a too small a sensor. I haven't experienced any issues and the XH2 blows away even the GFX100S. I am thinking of getting the XH2S also.
Hi guys...
I have the 56mm 1.2 , but I choose the 23mm f1.4 instead of the 16mm f1.4 just because of the distortion when trying some closeup portraits... I will be glad to here your opinion... Thanks.
Yeah, there is certainly distortion with the 16mm 1.4 when you get close. I personally love the playful feel of it. But I know many others do not.
@@AndrewGoodCamera Can you pls tell me why did you choose the 16mm instead of the 23mm . Thank you.
@@costinbalint7517 Simply because I like the wider field of view.
@@AndrewGoodCamera Thank you for your answer. You're great guys and I love watching your videos. Keep up with the good work.
Thanks for the inspirational video Andrew. What do you think of the new 18mm f1.4 in comparison with the 16mm f1.4 in this video for shooting event?
I've done the same with my nikon lenses for about 16 years now and they are just fine. Lenses are much stronger than people make them out to be. But of course i do baby them when im not on the job
Thank you so much, I shoot only concerts. Any ideas for bodies and lenses
X-H1, a wide angle fast lens, like 23 1.4 or 16mm 1.4, the 56mm 1.2, and the 50-140mm f28. That's all ya need, imo. :)
I have been using the 16mm f2.8 with XT30. Cant afford the 16mm f1.4.
Hello, where can we see your wedding portfolio?
I don't shoot weddings.
@@AndrewGoodCamera i meant event
Stgeorgeeventphotography.com
@@AndrewGoodCamera thx
It did give me a few ideas. Thank you 😊
If it has to be between the 16-55mm and the X-T3, I'd say the choice is pretty easy if this person already has the 18-55mm. To be honest, I'm not sure what the value is in the 16-55mm over the 18-55mm. No stabilization, it's big and heavy, and f2.8 really doesn't seem wide enough to merit the price difference or do indoor event photography. Speaking of which, unless it's paired with the x-h1, is there any reason not to choose the 18-55mm instead? I have yet to see a substantial advantage with its bigger brother.
I can't say if it's worth the almost 1000$ pricetag but the 18-55 is a bit soft wide open on certain focal lengths and obviously the fixed 2.8 on the 16-55 is nice to use it as a portrait lens if you only want 1 versatile lens and dont want to spend another 800 on the 56mm 1.2
David Ransom the 16-55 image quality is very high. I'm not justifying the price difference though.
The 16-50 works for my kind of clients. 😁
Hi Andrew, any reasons you put the lens hood on the 16mm f1.4 but not on the 56mm f1.2?
Just the way I had left them from last time I shot with them. No particular reason.
Denae & Andrew but you do of course use the 23mm Squarehood on it usually? If you do I would not be concerned over lenses getting scratched at all, sensordust in the camera is another story :)
With primes, do you usually get enough time/space to move around and get your composition? Do you have to crop your images more? Asking for a friend, who finds shooting with primes for events pretty terrifying.
Sometimes I crop. I've never felt like I was limited by two primes. On the contrary, I find it provides focus in composition.
Dude! This is so funny...I just came to the same conclusions. A little bit of background, I was a long time Nikon shooter and would normally go with the standard 24-70/70-200 route for an event. Now normally I don't shoot a lot of events. So when I switched to Fuji, I went with a line-up of primes. I'm a portrait and architecture guy, so I've been thrilled! Naturally, now that I've switched, I've been asked to do a couple of events. The first attempt, I went with 2 bodies and did a lot of switching and fussing about. Not exactly a lot of fun. So for the second event I did a week and a half ago, I was contemplating borrowing the 2.8 Nikon zooms and going with the one Nikon body I still have. Fortunately, I just said screw it and did exactly what you did (well, I took 3 lenses, the 23 f/1.4, 56 f/1.2 and the 90 f/2). After all of that, I absolutely agree with you and don't really see that I was being penalized by not having a zoom. I agree with what you're saying about the 90mm, but I was forced to work at a bit of a distance on occasion and the 90 really helped. But overall, I think I would've been fine with even just the 56 and the 23. (I know you love the 16, and if I had the 16 I would've been equally happy...but I do love my 23 :-)
Yeah, I forgot to mention that for distances I have to use the 90mm f2 or my 50-140 2.8. Sometimes with the 2x extender. But that's for stage work, where usually there's enough light to make higher apertures ok. But a lot of the event spaces I regularly shoot in are more intimate, so I don't bring them often.
18-55 not adequate is an understatement. I would say unuseable at low light despite the OIS. Why? Because I use at least f5.6 to get some acceptable pics. Below f5.6 the performance is not really great in the sharpness department. So I use it as a f5.6 constant aperture lens and in good daylight this is fine. Otherwise get some fast primes or the 16-80. Yes the 16-80 starts at F4 but OIS is great.
Very helpful video! I'm a beginner and I own the 16-80mm and the 50mm, but would like to get something that gives me some versatility for street/landscape photography, and in low light settings. If it gives me some good flexibility for casually taking shots of family/kids, that would be a plus too! I'm torn between the 16mm 1.4 and the 23mm 1.4. Any thoughts/suggestions?
Been working on your tactical lens changes I see.
😂
Getting slightly off the topic of low light, I'd be interested to know what sort of event shots you take with a 16mm lens on APS-C, as I consider my Pentax DA (APS-C) 15mm/4.0 far too wide for anything except capturing the entirety of a church, conference hall, etc. OTOH I find the DA 21mm/3.2 captures things like craft fairs very well, as it's wide enough to capture most or all of a vendor's table while not reducing the vendor themselves to insignificance, and will put small groups of people in the context of their surroundings while still keeping the people front and centre. (Then again, I'm an enthusiast rather than a pro, so I have the luxury of getting it wrong and lack of performance pressure.)
That being said, my better half has a craft fair coming up this weekend, so maybe I'll go stick the DA15/4.0 on one of my APS-C bodies and see what the fuss is all about. I got the chance to play with an XT-2 a short while back, and if I hadn't already been invested in Pentax up to the eyeballs (and happy with what it does for me), I'd be going for it hardcore.
Sadly, nobody's ever going to (be able to) make the 10-400mm f/0.9 rectilinear full-frame pancake lens that is every photographer's holy grail! :-D
Can you do video on 23mm vs 56mm
That speedy lens swapping is making me anxious. I feel like one time I'd mismount the lens and boom,shattered glass.
Haha. It'll be ok. That lens is not going to shatter over something like that. Scratched maybe. ;)
You would have to be seriously ham fisted to do that. I can't even conceive of how you'd 'mismount' so thoroughly that you'd shatter a lens.
It would’ve been nice if peak design would’ve made the lens capture for fujifilm.
I rented the 16-55 2.8 one time for an event with decent light, but still the 2.8 aperture wasn't enough. Now I own the 16mm 1.4 and 35mm f2 and I'm never looking back at the 16-55 2.8.
Still want to rent the 56 1.2 to try it out sometimes during a similar event.
23mm and 56mm baby. I prefer the X-H1 for the IBIS.
Hi, nice video, great lenses! Have you ever considered one of the Frii Design belt lens holders? Then the rear is not without protective cap and the position you grab your lens is always the same. Could mean even shorter lens-swap-times ;-)
X-T3 has better AF than X-T2, especially in low light but noise is pretty much the same. I sometimes shoot entire events with only the 23 1.4, but I surely appreciate the 56 when more reach needed. The 16 1.4 is indeed magical but the 23 1.4 more practical. Zooms are only useful when you can’t move yourself, like in performances in a theatre.
what about flashes for these events?
which flash do you recommend for fujifilm xt3
I don't use flash as much anymore. Almost never. The fun part of candid photography is shooting what I see. I don't like manipulating the environment or bringing attention to myself. That, and because the type of events I do they don't usually like it.
Is that 16mm good for nature videography as well? Love the hat.
Very interesting, I use 2 X-T1s with a 23 1.4 on one and either the 35 1.4 or the 60 2.4 on the other, the 56 would be nice but haven't found myself wishing for it yet.
Do you use a fuji xt1 for professional work?
@@merodack3721 why not? I use it as well. It's an awesome camera and actually I prefer x-t1's raw files than more modern fuji cameras.
I use the Xt3 and Xt5 and have the xt2 as backup or for a second shooter but i also do prefer the look of the xt1 xtrans 2 sensor, i wish fuji would make an xt1 mark 2 with the xt5 body and processor but with the original xtrans 2 sensor, that would be magical
I love my 16mm 1.4. Not tried the 56 (I'm a landscapist).
Do you use any zooms?
@@AndrewGoodCamera Yes I have the 10-24 and 55-200 for my X-T3. I really prefer the look of primes though, so I tend to use my 16 more, and if I need that bit of reach I use an adapted Nikkor 105 f2.8.
I also have the 32-64 GF lens which I use on my GFX along with the 23 prime. Though I'm probably selling mt medium format gear.
I mainly shoot landscapes as well, and oddly enough most of my keepers have been shot on the 56mm 1.2 :)
When you swap the two lenses in low light, how do you handle the lowest shutter speed to avoid shake? Manually set 1/100 for 56mm and 1/30 for 16mm? Or go in the Auto ISO menu and adjust. It slows me down. Same problem exists with 16-55mm f2.8. Every focal length needs a different exposure. I wish Fuji had a menu option to automatically adjust it. With OIS, you pretty much get free of this and only need to consider subject motion, but too bad you have to settle for slower aperture. I guess using the shutter dial is the fastest solution when changing lens or focal length.
Well in low light I do it a bit different. I shoot wide open, with the lowest shutter speed I feel I can get away with and with fixed ISO at 1600. I realize that most of the time these images will be under exposed, but I don't worry about that until post where I recover the exposure. Since Fuji sensors are ISO invariant, recovering the exposure in post is no different than adjusting the ISO up on camera. So switching lenses is no issue with this workflow.
Denae & Andrew As an prosumer, I’ve been using the formula where shutter speed is 1/(equivalent focal length). I usually use auto ISO and put that in for my minimum ISO. Every time I change lens, I dive into the menu and adjust that setting. It’s slow. But I don’t shoot too many events. However, I’ve been thinking of getting a zoom for vacation photography because my family gets impatient when I switch lenses. Anyway, I wish I had enough clout that Fuji would listen to me and put the 1/(focal length) rule into the auto iso settings as a choice. If they listen to you, please suggest this to them for me. Thanks.
16-55 2.8 and 50-140 2.8 for most. If poor lighting/ night then I would take the 16 1.4 and the 56 1.2. Haha. Wrote this before I watched the video, great minds think alike!
Switching lenses all the time, don't you get dust on the sensor?
Sure. But not as much as you might think and cleaning a sensor isn't a big deal
The main issue is not the dust but the wear of the mount
I swap a lot too but I do it on two body ...i use 4 lens ( 12 mm f2, 18 mm F2, 50 mm F2, 85 F1.8) ...i should be a little mad.
I would probably choose the 50 f2 over the 56 for events.
🤔 Why? The only way it's better is for size and cost. Not as nice in low light.
@@AndrewGoodCamera it's lightening fast autofocus compared to the 56, even on the xt3. Plus you would rarely be using anything under f2 at an event, focus takes priority over bokeh, unless it was a set-up shoot.
the focus differences on x-t3 are almost too small to measure. And at the events I shoot at, I shoot wide open most the time on the 56 1.2 because it's so dim. It's not about bokeh. Don't get me wrong. I think the 50mm f2 is really fantastic. But I don't think it's better for event work, personally.
@@AndrewGoodCamera all good. They are both fantastic lenses in their own right. Luckily we have the choice, one of the many benefits of shooting Fuji.
The 56mm is better in low light but the 50 is faster to focus and better tonality for black and white.
Would these lenses work well on the Fuji XPRO2?
I'm looking for a lenses for Boxing photography for my Fujifilm XPRO2 thoughts?
Do you mean for the sport of boxing?
@@AndrewGoodCamera yes, for boxing events usually indoors.
@@lilisakills
I wouldn't shoot Fuji. I would shoot canon or Sony and get 2.8 zoom lenses. But if you already have Fuji, I would shoot with the 16-55 2.8 and the 50-140 2.8.
The modern gun Slinger, has the lens changed and you're shot before you can blink