Fujitsu Mini Split Leak test and repair
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- Опубликовано: 7 янв 2022
- Found a leak in a Fujitsu Mini Split Ductless system by charging nitrogen into system 350 psi Cut flared line , blew out with nitro to get any dirt or copper shavings out of line , nitro test vacuum and recharged..
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you just introduced a ton of micro shavings of copper into that system....that flare tool is fine as long as debris can be removed.... its probably not enough to hurt anything....but still...otherwise, Thanks for sharing with us!
Please read the description below we opened up both ends blew it out with nitro then reconnected everything however if we did not do that yes you’re 100% right thanks for the comment
The problem with Spin flare at 1:25 is that all the tiny copper shavings/dust it creates went all the way into the tubing, and it creates tons of those. It all will end up in the TXV and compressor.
You don’t see it in the video but we blew out the line on the otherside.. Good point
I hear ya, however, my guy did not video him blowing out the line with nitro. Thanks for the comment.
I’m a fan of the rachet orbital flare tool idk never have issues and I do go to 550 on the pressure test
Nice job 👏
Thx
Good job
Thx
Im with the pros here. I dont even like to introduce shavings into my water or gas lines. My question is why not first try to torque the line to spec since you have the tools i want and cant afford? After that initial troubleshoot, maybe stick a paper towel below your vertical flare? Food for thought
Thanks for the comments it was tight up to spec so we decided to cut and re-flare and then what we did prior to the vacuum was open the line blow it out with nitro and then reconnect everything. Have a great day comments.😮
Nice work sir ....I am form Pakistan
Thx
Thx
I did a vacuum on my ductless installation. Went negative pressure for about 30 minutes. When I closed the valve on the manifold it went immediately above zero. There is no refrigerator in the lines. How do I find the leak?
you need to pressurize the system with nitrogen to about 350ro 400 psi then search for leaks with big blue water bubbles.....
@@lvvhvac9787 is there any other way? I don't have the equipment to do that
@@jmarasco510 unfortunately, do you need the right tools to check for leaks we need to get a nitro tank connect that to your manifold, gauge, and pressurize the system to 350.. if you cut the flares and redo it, you still won’t know if they’re good, unless you pressurize
@LVV HVAC if I cut and re-flare the ends, then vacuum again and the negative pressure holds, then I should be good right?
How much should I expect to pay for this service I have the same issue
It all depends on how long it takes to find the leak multiple heads multiple joints to check then a repair of possible, next vacuum and charge could be 500 and up ...
Why don't mini splits utilize a double flare?
Not too sure why they don’t use a double flare however everything needs to be torqued down to a specific specifications by the engineers spec… if it’s installed properly and tightened with a torque wrench they said the units should have no issues.. I also use a sealant around the threads to help out with leaks
@@lvvhvac9787 thanks for the response. I've just never seen one that doesn't leak eventually. I was always taught to double flare in sealed systems. Always blew my mind that they want a regular flare.
I'm no expert on this. Double flares are difficult to accomplish properly. Instead of one bad flare , now you have two. Operator error and material integrity is a big part of that. For brake lines, a properly done double flare is the norm. Hyrldraulic pressure is way higher than gas. But brake fluid will never get to a gaseous state. Second reason or hypothesis, the copper tubing is withstanding up to 500 psig in these machines. If, this only theoretical, you crush thin-wall copper, not just once, but twice, you're still dealing with the same leak potential as copper does not like to be bent. So a double flare in this instance does not guarantee anything. The metal is now now stretched hard for the double flare. Crushing two layers of copper is then no better than 1 layer that's tightened properly
Sounds like you are using windex. What is that?
Big blue from Johnstone supply
I would have tried to just tighten fitting first.
I’ve done that too ….but there’s was no refrigerant in the system & there was air in the system so I figured I would just cut every re flare it opened up on both sides bought out nitro pressure test it and go on my way I had some time on my schedule anyway lol thanks for the comment keep them coming
@@lvvhvac9787 I'm getting ready to install my outdoor unit this week (it's coming tomorrow) on a multi split unit and hope my flairs hold. I have a bottle of nitrogen to test it with. What pressures do you use when testing?
You can pressurize it 350 that should be good but just make sure you crank it down to the torque specifications …too many people eyeball it either go to light or go to heavy and split the copper a good investment is a torque wrench the one I have i believe is blackmen it’s a digital one and it’s really good
Over tightening flare fittings is the biggest reason they leak. Cutting, flaring , and torquing them to factory spec is the best thing to do.
The more I get into thos the more I see the value of 1) proper tools and proper training 2) proper tools and proper training 3) proper tools and proper training
what if refrigerant still in there. How you going to fix it
You would have to pump it down or recover it, fix the leak, then put it back in
@@lvvhvac9787 thank you very much
If there was a leak, will pumping the refrigerant back down add the outside air to the compressor?
Good question…. If you still have refrigerant in the system it’s still has positive pressure, so no air really gets in the until. If there’s no more refrigerant in the system and the unit is operating itis then sucking air in when it’s running… So when you pump down the system stop right before you get to negative pressure on the gauge set ,don’t go into a negative pressure…. you can stop at five psi three psi, so you still have some positive pressure in the system, if you go into vacuum, it will suck air.. good question hope that helps..
Yes it does! Thank you!
Yup, that’s still leaking. Nylog blue, my friend.
Do you mean my flare still leaking?
Flare seals 🎉😂
I see them at the supply house all the time never use them though how do you like them
@@lvvhvac9787 They work. If you're installing an eBay mini split that comes with preflared lines it helps. The flares are garbage and everything I've read says nylog can't help in those situations. These seals crush into place because they're copper coated with teflon and once they're down it's forever. Apparently truckers/big riggers use these seals for all kinds of flared connections for hydraulic oils too.
I never keep any flare’s that’s not mine on a system I’ll cut it off it re flare it…..
Why is there an adapter on the head unit
it’s for different applications, a single head zone or multihead zone. Sometimes they'll give you an adapter to downsize the pipe,
Hello sir how are you sir my self mukesh bedi i am ac technician and electrician i want work with you
Where do you live
Sir i am from india
You’re a long way from New York but keep watching the videos if you have any questions feel free to ask
Go back to where you are from
Nylog.
Nylog is good stuff...works well
Eww Fujitsu, thank god you got paid to destroy it and hopefully you get a job to install anything else.
If you saw the comments above, we blew the line out with nitrogen after we fix the flare
@@lvvhvac9787 The line is oily inside, so you can't really blow the shavings out with nitrogen.