Видео

@@TheBen1114 hi thanks for viewing and glad its gave you confidence to wrench yourself. I used OEM Harley gaskets i dont like going aftermarket on some things like gaskets for the engine. Im not sure what size torque wrench you have but i got in with mine just struggle for the rear cylinder rocker cover on the back bolts. Just dont go overkill and try and remember the pressure you put on to torque the bolt you can get to. Also locktight is a must . Good luck

@@harleyloco1853 thanks for quick reply,where do u order harley oem parts, cheers bud

@@TheBen1114 had mine from Wolverhampton Harley Davidson i rode over as they had them in stock

@@harleyloco1853 cheers mate

@@Fresh-ld2dm no problem glad it helped you 💪

Its not a strobe light. Its the rear singal lights flashing so i can connect the tail light and intergrated signal lights to the correct wires.

Itnwas a relief after reading some horror stories. The bikes an 07 Road King and it is stage 2 tuned. 30k miles when video was created. I went back in at 37.5k to change cam chain tensioners also. No gear drive as of yet i was tempted to but its a mega cost here in the UK

The Jims primary bearing kit doesnt fit this model. The auto primary tensioners are fine unless your running high power and are heavy on the throttle drag starts etc

Hi the reason i strap the pedal down is to prevent having to bleed the brake after the switch has been changed. Have faith in yourself you will do it 💪

Hi thank you so much for your reply really appreciate your time & help . I had broken down on the way to Dave day 8th June . So I will have a go myself you sound very local to me West Midlands & I have sub to ya Chanel thanks 🇬🇧👍

@@richardperry5880 ah nothin worse then breaking down. Get it done yourself check back in if your stuck or update us on if you have done it.. very simple job .. im in Birmingham buddy

Hi hope this helps Primary oil Maybe a primary cover gasket if you damage original one Primary bearing and race Tools Primary bearing/race puller installer they can be a nightmare to get the race off if you look through my videos theres a tutorial on doing it with the tool but i have had to use a dremmel to cut the race then split it with a chisel. Good luck take your time

Hi personally i never did. Is it a problem your having all the time hot or cold engine?

@harleyloco1853 it was an issue hot or cold, and only got progressively worse this past couple of weeks. It would take multiple crankings to get it to fire. I was originally thinking it was poor fuel pressure, since I could cycle the kill switch a few times and it would eventually fire up, but I wound up shooting some carb cleaner up inside the valve, and it seems to be better so far, though it initially had trouble cranking up, and occasionally still idled pretty low, but it hasn't shut down. I'll do more riding this weekend and see if it comes out of it.

@@gagepuffinbarger6939 in the rear if the front chlinder theres is a temperature control valave. Maybe worth a check and change to see if your problem is still present.

@@harleyloco1853 I'll check that out if the problem persists.

@@harleyloco1853 Been riding the bike for a little bit, and have a few things to note. It doesn't seem to be having an issue with idling after cleaning the IAC valve, but it has still had issues with starting. The start button on the bars went out last year, and i just wired in a momentary button to put voltage to the starter, and it had been working up until recently. It'll just crank over and over without firing up until after a certain amount of cranking. I tried pushing my temp switch and then tapping the original start button while it's cranking, and it fires up immediately. My guess is that when using the original start button, it sends something to the ECU to retard the timing, or maybe letting the headlight go out allows for better amperage to the starter and/or the ignition system, or maybe it sprays in an extra bit of fuel, because when I press the original start button, the headlight goes out but doesn't start. Kind of odd how only recently it's been having trouble starting, but eventually I will bite the bullet and order new switches and spend the money...

Funny you saying that i pulled up at a cafe the other day and a fella had one on his but i thought it looked ugly. The oil coolers look a bit bettwr you can hide them down the front. You thinking of running one on your ride ?

Yea you can set the ebs up a few different ways . The ebs and oil cooler are two different things the ebs stops the blow by from entering your intake I never had the need for a oil cooler I run a straight 50 wt sae 60 wt during the hottest part of the year compared to 20-50 it cuts engine temps dam near in half the manual only calls for 20-50 when it’s a little above 40degrees cold weather other most people don’t realize they need to run the correct oil the manual calls for maybe good for the M8 because they come with coolers but the vtwin not the same and I’m not a know it all we just have the same dam bike lol just different cams and styles.

To answer the question yes I’ve been running the ebs for 15 years now I stand by it

@@robertross4274 do you have video link to something similar that you run ? Be interesting to see. The one i seen the other day was very ugly looked out of place.

@@harleyloco1853 yea I agree did he have it right under the air cleaner I don’t like that look either mines is routed to a bracket that sits between the bag a passenger foot peg on the left side but doesn’t interfere with the passengers foot out of site it only coughs up when I’m at high rpm’s 90-100 mph for 30 40 miles at a time or when I met a guy at the red light and we dump the throttle wide open for the quarter mile .

What bike and what have you done so far ?

@@harleyloco1853 put grips on so I have adjusted both cables in and out. New battery. Also I cleaned the throttle body to the best of my knowledge but I wasn’t aware turning the key and run switch on would help so maybe that’s why it’s still happening. It’s a 2015 dyna street Bob. It runs perfect just have to keep a little throttle on when idling at a stop sign or it will die occasionally. It seems like the idle needs turned up a pinch but it’s not possible to do that so I’m clueless

@@brodyrichard263 if cleaning it doesnt work it may need swapping out completley. Do you have any engine mods ? Hi flow air cleaner ? Is it cleaned and oiled correctly? Ive also known of bikes that have a tuner on them previous and the idle has been turned down in them and can lead to the issues your having. If you have an fp3 tuner you can adjust idle

@@harleyloco1853 no it ran perfect before

@@brodyrichard263 be something to do with your cables id say if you have had to mess with them? If it ran fine before and now only acting up.

Yes it sure did

Your welcome 💪

Glad you liked it thanks for viewing and thanks for the comment ✊🏻

Yea this can be a known fault ive seen it plenty of times. Also ive seen the total opposite where the bulb will not light at all when brake is pressed but the switch acts as if it is working when you touch both terminals with a wire the bulb lights up.

@@harleyloco1853 thank you

Thanks for viewing

Theres no wiring. Its plug and play

Its a watch there only cheap off ebay

@@harleyloco1853 thank you did make a video of you installing it ?

@@benjaminrico4277 no its battery operated like a wrist watch .. literally 2 screws and it spins to give access so you can still lock the steering

I look for it , do you the name or title for it ?

No problem i appreciate your view and comments 💪

Good question off hand i cannot remember. Silly forgetting to mention it in the vlog. I will measure it tomorrow and reply back to you for sure.

@@harleyloco1853 cool thanks

@@Booniedagunman 7.8 inch wrenche to a 3/4 inch wrench .. in our terms here was around 19mm to 22mm

Glad you enjoyed it ..Its an 07 RoadKing FLHR .. yea warrs has there 100th anniversary coming up i may take a ride down and vlog it.. 140miles from my place. See if the weather is good in July 🤣

@@harleyloco1853 great! Mine is a 07FLHTCU

Thanks bud

Haha whats up buddy .. yea my fam in Boston and LA always say that one…

@@harleyloco1853 A Loco where can I get one of those English muffins u get lol ..

Are you sure you dont have an air leak anywhere ? Deffo no adjustment in these valaves

@@harleyloco1853 no I don't think so, just disassembled the throttle body and put it back in so .. what is strange is whether it's the new or the old IAC the idle run differently even if I'm just replacing the IAC...

Yes it does then eventually it gives up.

Ill be sure to keep an eye on it, thanks!​@@harleyloco1853

Thanks buddy.. seasons greetings

Thankyou fella

You can put a little assembly lube around it if you want but it runs in the primary oil so it gets lubcricated . Thats as long as you put the retaining clip in the correct position allowing the oil to pass through

@@harleyloco1853 ok thanks for the advice

@@Thisdude1227 any time bud

I put the bike into 6th gear pull the plugs to rotate the motor over to find TDC on the cylinder im testing. The reason for the rear brake is that the air will push the piston straight down so a reading would not be possible. This wont put any wear or danger to the conpensator or trans. If you do not wont to let the brake off and let the motor turn you could disconnect the air line and bleed the air back out the top of the leak down device. Thanks for watching appreciate your time

@@harleyloco1853 thanks for your prompt reply. The issue I was trying to explain is that applying the brake doesnt stop the piston moving as it is applied to the wheel but doesn't control the other backlash I refer to. I have been putting the wheel on the bench (after confirming TDC and rotating the wheel backwards to remove belt tension) and doing the pressurising. Occasionally the piston still strokes part way down even without wheel movement (as would happen with the brake applied). In theory, the stroke should still be on both valves closed, but depending on the lift and timing of cam lobes may cause some leak down (mine is stock so shouldn't be an issue). I was wondering if you controlled for this or not? in my case, I ended up loosing push rods/ rockers and still had leakage out of intake

@@sophtayl well the piston has to be all the way up the cylinder TDC anything less it will get blown back down. . Aslong as your at TDC you can perform the test. The leak tester showed me a good healthy motor. I also do a sound check ear by the headers by the breather and take the oil cap off and listen for any bubbling etc from inside the motor. You should not be getting any leak out of the intake that shows a leaking valve.

​@@harleyloco1853​yes agree. if the piston isnt perfectly on tdc then the pressure pushes it down. a lot of leakdown tests appear to recommend 100psi for a true reading (lower pressures appear to be less accurate) which will definitely move a piston (unless perfect tdc), mine went to 35psi and still moved the pistion... but agree with all your comments. and yes, ultimately the intake (which should be wedged open), exhaust and oil tank filler told me more about my issues. Suffice to say, a build is being planned... Thanks for sharing

@@sophtayl best of luck with it all buddy Ride Safe

Turn the volume up fella 💪

@harleyloco1853 I had it all the way. Watching on my phone so that may be the issue.

Yes sure is

Thank u!

Theres nothing wrong with the cam plate or oil pump im running it works. Its not hard for me to go back in there Down the road if i change to gear drive then i will change them but here in the UK its a hell of a lot of money for the S&S plate and pump or the feuling. Peice of mind for me was changing the tensioners so i know at 35kthey are new and replaced.

I guess my 2002 at 11000 miles will be ok a lot longer.on my 4th Harley ( and last ) since 1989. But will check them in any case. Good info.