Видео

500, 110f

@@AircooledProject they look like nural 540cc pistons and barrels

Super. Avem si un grup whatsapp dedicat Fiat 500 din Romania. Esti in el?

@@AircooledProject nu..eu locuiesc in Polonia de ceva timp. dar daca ma primiti, intru cu bucurie 😁

Sigur, imi poti trimite numarul in privat pe facebook sau insta, am linkurile la detaliile canalului.

It takes a lot of torque to crush the inner spacer. I used an impact gun and tested with the weight a few times. If it drops quickly, it needs more torque.

@@AircooledProject thank you very much

@@AircooledProject another question: can i use lithium nlgi2 ep grease?

I think any grease that is rated for axles will do just fine. I also use lithium based grease. It's important to use a generous amount and pack the bearings well.

Functioneaza bine, dar trebuie revenit si cu discul de pasla apoi. Este ok pt ca se reduce mult praful facut.

Yes, in Romania

It's a thermostat kit available on most 500 part stores. It contains the flap, bushings and other small parts. I think I got it from passione500.

The spacer goes inside between the 2 bearings, like in the video.

@@AircooledProject parlavo dell'anello

Anzi scusate degli anelli

The thin ring goes between the bearing and seal, so the bearing doesn't rub on the seal.

Hello Alfredo. I'm in Romania, but I'm not a professional mechanic. I restored this engine for my own car.

@@AircooledProject congratulations man, really awesome work. I wish I'd do the same with my 500, it's abandoned since 2005

Thank you. It's an easy car to work on. If you research everything well, you should be able to do it.

Multumesc!

Grazie!

Yes, Moltedo37, it is noisier than a water-cooled engine, as water cooling does make for closer tolerances. However, to say that it takes longer to build than a Mercedes engine is stretching logic a bit too far!! Fiat have, for the most part, (over many decades) produced many practical designs. They were utilitarian, practical easy to work on and quite conventional in design. Lots of people could afford to buy one, which meant that in the post-War Italy, they did not have to ride their Vespas in the cold and rain - and could carry the family as well. Every engineer has a design brief to follow in what sort of car they are asked to create. Small, economic, practical, etc. or fast, complex, high performance, expensive, etc. Some for long American cross-nation trips and some for narrow and tight city streets. So before you criticise, think about the design philosophy that drove the engineer - in this case, Dante Giacosa - who designed most of the sixties Fiats, not to mention the 50s, and earlier. (The original Fiat 500 Topolino was designed by him in the 30s.)

@claudiosossi73 I had a Fiat 600. La Seicento. Very good car. But try to dismantle the gearbox and put it back together. There few small ball bearings that stops the gear jumping out of gear. It is a nightmare to find where they are. And then putting them in it is very difficult.

Thanks. I couldn't say for sure, but maybe it is ovearheating. For a start, you should check the termostat and flap on the right side of the engine. Maybe take out the termostat, leave the flap open, and see if it works better.

No, I used custom cylinders from Nanni, and I got some thick paper gaskets that they recommend when you don't install a headgasket. For a stock engine, the thin paper ones should be ok.

Thanks

I think the official values are 0.3 - 0.44 mm. I do think the 0.44 value is a maximum accepted for a worn bearing. When rebuilding, I would go for the 0.3 value or even a bit less. If I remember correctly, my engine had between 0.2 and 0.25 endfloat after the final assembly.

Thanks

@@punto888 You're welcome!

Hello. It's a cheap romanian coating with high bronze content used mainly on stove metal parts. In translation, it's actually called "bronze for stove". Try googling "kynita bronz argintiu" I don"t know under what name you would find it in other countries. Maybe you could ask some company specialized in stoves.

Multumesc, ma bucur ca iti sunt utile.

Yes, the cylinders I got were designed to work without a head gasket. Also, the head was freshly skimmed.

Thank you! If the fuel pressure is too high, the needle valve in the carburetor will not be able to stop the flow when the bowl is full and the engine will be flooded with gas.

Gracias, saludos desde Rumania

With a lever between 2 flywheel bolts. Visible at 8:00

Yes, I did apply a high temp clear coat after paint, although it's not absolutely necessary.

Thank you for watching. The cylinders, pistons and rings were bought as a kit. You can find them on most fiat 500 parts stores. I bought the rest of the parts separately.

Google "pneumatic hole puncher"

You need to remove the 4 bolts of the driveshaft, then the big nut that holds the wheel shaft. Now, you can remove the hub and the plate by undoing the 4 bolts that hold it to the suspension arm. When reassembling, you will need a new crush spacer and a way to apply a lot of torque to the big nut in order to adjust the preload on the bearing. I used a pneumatic impact wrench. A long breaker bar also works.

Also, I have this video that should help: ruclips.net/video/MQEB9f_OIXA/видео.html&feature=share8

@@AircooledProject Thank you so much! I may have disassembled it in the wrong order, but, c'est la vie. I'm having a problem visualizing when the big nut gets torqued down. I have everything off but that one. It's not a castle nut with a cotter pin as some diagrams show. Rather, it has a raised knob on the end where the spring from the drive shaft rests against it.

I was in a hurry and didn't film the tightening process. I used a pneumatic impact wrench and tighten it a bit at a time while checking the load on the bearing as shown in the video at 6:37. You can also use a braker bar or long wrench, but you need to find a way to keep the axle from moving. Maybe another person can hold it.

Hello. On the metal parts, I used high temp primer, paint and clearcoat. The manufacturer, I believe, is called Macota. It's just what I found at a local hardware store.

@@AircooledProject thank you very much! I will try to search for it and share, maybe someone else need it too, but it was not specifically 2C paint?

It is regular high temp spray paint. It is not 2C.

Thank you. I'm glad you found them useful. Good luck with your project!

Thank you, Barry. Good luck with your project. If you decide to get it :)

Thank you!

E destul de zdravana caroseria, nu sunt multe de facut.

Multumesc. Am ramas in urma cu youtubeul, motorul are deja aproape un an de la reconditionare si peste 8000km :)

Hello. If I remember correctly, it's metric 32.

Salut. Acum am pus doar garnitura simpla si pare sa tina ok.

Hello. There should be a spacer there. It shouldn't touch. In the meantime, I replaced the flex joints with proper modern homokinetic joints. No more fiddling with gearbox position to perfectly align driveshafts.

Thank you. It's the gopro suction cup on the passenger window.

Thank you! Greetings from Romania!

Hello. Yes, part 2 of this series: ruclips.net/video/aiRi1AsqjgQ/видео.html

If you refer to the ignition timing, I do that with a strobe light, like any other car. it's kind of difficult to film with the engine in the car. For the static timing, you should consult a manual. You can find at least one free pdf on google.

:)) It's just going to be the assembly of engine accessories and first start.

Great!! Can’t wait. 👌

Grazie!

Hello. It's the heater control. It opens and closes some flaps in the heater boxes.

If you used the compressor tool, I think it should be at the right height immediately. I didn't notice any lowering on mine after installation. Maybe ~1cm, not really noticeable.

I did just restore my old spring. If you fit a new one, it may need some time to settle.

@@AircooledProjectYes, it will not be the same as a new one I guess.

Yes, I turned it around when I put the engine back in the car. Forgot to add a note on the video about it.