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Thank you so much! I’ve been doing this a long time and we ALL have days where nothing goes right. It’s rare that I have a day when everything goes as planned 🤣 and I want people to see it all. If I do happen to catch a video where it’s perfect, you’ll definitely see a true happy dance! 😊

Thank you so much!😊

Hello Patricia! Thank you so much for the kind words. Yes, I am working on that very video and it will be coming soon. ☺️

@@JulessaScofieldMetalsmith Hello Julessa! This is very good news to hear from you. Thanks so much for quick response on my request. Looking forward to the upcoming video. Thanks so much!

Good morning and thank you so much for the kind words! I have lots of videos planned for 2025 now that my studio is finally in a permanent home, so stay tuned for those. I have seen cup burs used to “smooth” out the edges of very small tube settings, but I would avoid it personally. The cup bur removes material so if you’re not careful, you could potentially take off too much material around the setting and weaken it. Instead, I’ll use a small flat graver to clean up any big scars around the stone, then a very fine sandpaper to get the setting ready for polishing - but, be careful of the stone with the sandpaper so as to not scratch it. Everyone has a different method that works for them so I encourage you to try the cup bur method and see if you find it helpful. Let me know how it turns out! I personally use 90 degree hart burs since they are more suited to lots of stone types. The 45 degree hart burs are usually for diamonds, but both will work fine. If you’re not sure which to use, the 90 degree will be more versatile because a lot of stones other than diamonds have really tall culets (the bottom point of the stone to the girdle), which are more suited to using the 90 degree angled hart burs. Hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions. 😊

Thank you so much Gladys! 😁

Hello Antonio! I am also a hand engraver and the only thing I’ve found that works well on stainless steel are carbide burs and very high speed rotary tool like a dental drill. I use an air turbine hand piece and carbide burs to cut my stainless steel jobs. However, there is a limit to the sizes I can use for that hand piece. You need one that rotates more than 25,000 rpms to cut stainless cleanly. Hope this helps. Let me know if you any other questions.

Hello Joan! The inner bezel is measured to match the height of the stone from the cutlet to the girdle, so the bottom of the inner and outer bezel should match. Then, yes, if the top of the inner bezel is a little uneven, the ball bur clean up can usually straighten it. The important thing is to do a little, check the stone’s fit and if it’s level, and then do a little more. Everything in small increments will help you get the stone straight and fit into the bezels you build. Hope this helps. 😊

Hello Flyingcheff! Yes, it is a reticulated piece of sterling - not an actual reticulation piece of silver. I’m definitely coming back now that the studio has a permanent home. Keep an eye out in 2025.

@JulessaScofieldMetalsmith Dancing a happy jig! 😊

Hello FlyingChef! I totally missed this comment somehow… 🤪. I will have to go back and re-watch the video and make the edit. The reason for the extra 1mm spacing is to provide 1/2 a millimeter on each side of the stone to help with prong size and the spacing between the stones. True pave is very close together, usually splitting one chink of metal into 2 separate prongs on each one, but it really depends on the aesthetic you’re going for in the overall design. I have been successful with both methods (plus a millimeter or exact size). Yes, inaccurate spacing can cause issues. The worst thing would be to not have enough material to create proper prongs. It’s better to have a little too much that you can eliminate than to not have enough. I’m sure there is a very specific formula if you attend a true, professional diamond setting class, but even then, every teacher does it differently 😃. The best instruction I found was from Jewellery Training Solutions and they recommend 1mm bigger than the stone, so 4mm for a 3mm stone. In my own experience, this has worked out the best, but I’m not an expert just yet, so a lot of the time it’s still a gamble for me. I think the more you do it, the more intuitive it becomes and you work out the kinks and proceed with what works for you. That’s the beauty of this craft, everyone does it differently and as long as the stone stays in, it looks clean and professional, and you can replicate the process, you’re doing well. Hope this helps, a little at least. 😄

I e seen others use the shim method and I’ve wanted to try it, just haven’t had the time but will have the studio up & running in 2025 and ready to try it. Thank you for reminding me 😁

@JulessaScofieldMetalsmith sooo glad you're coming back!! Yay!!!

Thank you so much! 😊

Thank you so much! I like to show that no matter how long you practice, mistakes still happen. The important thing is to figure out how to fix them and determine if you can do it better the next time. Wet string on the prongs is a great idea. I’ve tried many different methods, but I have not heard of that one. Great suggestion! I have many new videos planned and in progress for 2025 see keep an eye out for them.

Thank you! 😀

Thank you! 😁

Thank you so much Meganrose! I have a lot more planned for,2025 now that the studio is finally in a permanent home 🙂

That’s a great idea to save money. We all know how expensive “jewelry” tools can be. 😆

It’s actually a Paige Tools rosette torch tip that fits a Smith Little Torch. I believe it’s an M4 tip 😁

Thank you so much Kim. I’m gearing up to get back to the bench now that the studio has been moved to a permanent home so stay tuned!

Thank you so much Lauren. I will have more coming in 2025 now that the studio is in its permanent home!😁

Thank you so much. It’s important for everyone to see that even after almost 18 years, I still make mistakes and have challenges. I will always be transparent with my videos. 😄

Thank you so much! I have a lot more on the way in 2025 now that the studio has a permanent home again. 😁

Thank you so much! My rule of thumb is to have the metal about 3mm thicker than the height of the stone when flush setting.

Thank you so much! So much more planned for 2025!

You're so welcome!

New level unlocked! A complete game changer and saves your fingers a lot of aching 😂😃

I used a 3/32 size rod of brass to make the pusher for the stone. The pointed steel burnisher I made from a broken ball bur. I made a video for it as well: ruclips.net/video/dLdRps4RWPM/видео.htmlsi=MTnu9_OFf-PduZ6-

So happy it was helpful! 😉

Anytime! I’m happy this is helpful for you. Don’t be nervous, just take the fire and go to town 😆

I’m so happy to hear this helped you! 🙌🏼👏🏻😃

Wow!! Thank you so much Barry. I have been busy developing new content and working on a members area for my website so stay tuned for more videos. 😁

Mine too ❤

Thank you so much Jeanie! I am working on new videos and getting my new permanent studio up & running, so stay tuned! 🥰

I’m so happy you liked it. I have more planned and am working on some new videos.

@@JulessaScofieldMetalsmith 🥰

Muchas gracias Carmen! 🥰

Thank you so much! I truly appreciate the feedback. I’m working on some new videos now that I’m settled into the last studio I think I’ll ever have to move to 🤪😁

Alice! Thank you for such a wonderful comment. I truly appreciate the feedback. I am working on new videos for the channel and hope to have some posted soon!

@@JulessaScofieldMetalsmith I can't wait!

Yes, the holes do stay open. If they submerge for a significant amount of time, water will seep into the ring. However, the holes should be as small as you can drill them to help prevent the water inside. Their only purpose is to prevent a problem when you solder the pieces together. 😁

Thank you so much! ☺️

Thank you so much Rosa! I’m so happy it was helpful. 🥰

Hello! I used a round ring mandrel to reshape the piece to fit the inside of the top to get it as round as I could and then made sure it had a snug fit, or fit with a little friction. By doing that, I was able to finish making it match the roundness of the outer wall.

Hi Rick! Thank you so much, I’ve saved up to buy good, quality tools over the last 18 years, so I take extra care of them. It depends on how big the crimp is. Usually, you can anneal the bowl and work the crimp out with either a raising hammer (slightly rounded hammer)or at grooving hammer (aka cross-peen). Either way, it will slightly deform the bowl until you your next round of raising. And, sometimes you may have to cut or sand the edge to make it level.

@@JulessaScofieldMetalsmith Yeah, thanks, I’ll try and work it out. Should I go across the fold or parallel to it?

@@loraleamisterly9865start by going parallel to spread the crimp apart, then across to flatten it. Take turns flipping from parallel to cross just keep your eye on the thinness. If you can, try to hammer a larger area than the crimp so you don’t thin a small part of the wall. If you can aim your blows evenly across a larger area, it will help make it less noticeable. But, even if you can “see” it, most others won’t unless you point it out. Let the beauty of the imperfection shine and see it as a handmade mark, not a mistake 🤗

@@JulessaScofieldMetalsmithThanks for the encouraging words. Somehow my wife’s account came up last time. I like what you say about the imperfections. It is my first large one from scrapyard 3” pipe, using some hammers and black walnut stumps. I have more so can hopefully learn from this one. Would you mind telling me how to find that nice set of stakes and anvils you use?

I’m so glad you found me! For this particular tutorial, I used 18g wire so it would show well on video and be secure for the somewhat larger stones. If the stones were smaller, I would use either a bezel setting or a half-claw, half-bezel setting in sterling silver for more security of the stone.

@@JulessaScofieldMetalsmith tried it this morning/afternoon. I can’t count the number of times I dropped jump rings😂 . It took three + tries to get a good looking setting finally. Harder than you’d think at the outset for sure! ;) Settled on 16 gauge at the end because I melted one setting, sigh. It’s all good practice though!

@@hosannaliving Yes! But you did it. That’s a huge accomplishment because it looks a lot easier than it actually is. Pat yourself on the back and know it will get easier each time you do it 😁

Glad it was helpful!

Hi Terri! Thank you so much! The brand is not so important but rather the plate type - meaning a full flat plate versus the open spiral type you see on an electric stove. And, depending on the size of the piece you’re trying to put the gold on, you may need an alternate source of heat. I found that a heat gun from a box store works well to help get the metal up to temperature. The other way is to use your torch to heat the piece to a high enough temperature for the gold to bond - this is a bit trickier 🤣 Hope these suggestions help.

@@JulessaScofieldMetalsmith Dear Julessa, Thank you for your reply. I thought I had it made last night after I tried the wire brush you suggested to test whether the gold had adhered, but after trying to put rouge on it to make the ring shine, a piece came off. I have tried both the flat plate & coiled hot plates. Everyone has a different way of doing Keum Boo. I had a spiral hot plate that did great, but it died. I tried it just as you did on a flat plate last night, but it didn't meet my expectations. I tried the Ultra Lite Kiln with no success with a temperature control. I didn't think of a heat gun. I guess I might try that or the torch next.

@@terrisidell7041 getting the temperature just right takes practice. I watch a gentleman on RUclips that only uses a torch to heat the silver to apply keum boo. It’s obvious he’s perfected the skill. The other thing that could be affecting the bond is the depth of your depletion or the depth of the fine silver you’ve brought to the surface. If it’s not adequate, the gold won’t bond correctly. So, it’s a combination of heat and the amount of depletion you’re able to achieve. Don’t give up, it takes lots of practice and patience to build up the skill😁

Thank you so much! 😊

Thank you so much! 😊

I have finally moved into a bigger studio, so this project is on my “To Do” list 🤗

Thank you soooo much bluefern! I am finally moved into my permanent studio so watch out for new videos coming your way. 😉

I will have to check that out! Thank you.

I have not yet, but I just moved my studio into a bigger space, so it will come soon! 😊

Thank you so much! 😀