Видео

New level unlocked! A complete game changer and saves your fingers a lot of aching 😂😃

I used a 3/32 size rod of brass to make the pusher for the stone. The pointed steel burnisher I made from a broken ball bur. I made a video for it as well: ruclips.net/video/dLdRps4RWPM/видео.htmlsi=MTnu9_OFf-PduZ6-

So happy it was helpful! 😉

Anytime! I’m happy this is helpful for you. Don’t be nervous, just take the fire and go to town 😆

I’m so happy to hear this helped you! 🙌🏼👏🏻😃

Wow!! Thank you so much Barry. I have been busy developing new content and working on a members area for my website so stay tuned for more videos. 😁

Mine too ❤

Thank you so much Jeanie! I am working on new videos and getting my new permanent studio up & running, so stay tuned! 🥰

I’m so happy you liked it. I have more planned and am working on some new videos.

@@JulessaScofieldMetalsmith 🥰

Muchas gracias Carmen! 🥰

Thank you so much! I truly appreciate the feedback. I’m working on some new videos now that I’m settled into the last studio I think I’ll ever have to move to 🤪😁

Alice! Thank you for such a wonderful comment. I truly appreciate the feedback. I am working on new videos for the channel and hope to have some posted soon!

@@JulessaScofieldMetalsmith I can't wait!

Yes, the holes do stay open. If they submerge for a significant amount of time, water will seep into the ring. However, the holes should be as small as you can drill them to help prevent the water inside. Their only purpose is to prevent a problem when you solder the pieces together. 😁

Thank you so much! ☺️

Thank you so much Rosa! I’m so happy it was helpful. 🥰

Hello! I used a round ring mandrel to reshape the piece to fit the inside of the top to get it as round as I could and then made sure it had a snug fit, or fit with a little friction. By doing that, I was able to finish making it match the roundness of the outer wall.

Hi Rick! Thank you so much, I’ve saved up to buy good, quality tools over the last 18 years, so I take extra care of them. It depends on how big the crimp is. Usually, you can anneal the bowl and work the crimp out with either a raising hammer (slightly rounded hammer)or at grooving hammer (aka cross-peen). Either way, it will slightly deform the bowl until you your next round of raising. And, sometimes you may have to cut or sand the edge to make it level.

@@JulessaScofieldMetalsmith Yeah, thanks, I’ll try and work it out. Should I go across the fold or parallel to it?

@@loraleamisterly9865start by going parallel to spread the crimp apart, then across to flatten it. Take turns flipping from parallel to cross just keep your eye on the thinness. If you can, try to hammer a larger area than the crimp so you don’t thin a small part of the wall. If you can aim your blows evenly across a larger area, it will help make it less noticeable. But, even if you can “see” it, most others won’t unless you point it out. Let the beauty of the imperfection shine and see it as a handmade mark, not a mistake 🤗

@@JulessaScofieldMetalsmithThanks for the encouraging words. Somehow my wife’s account came up last time. I like what you say about the imperfections. It is my first large one from scrapyard 3” pipe, using some hammers and black walnut stumps. I have more so can hopefully learn from this one. Would you mind telling me how to find that nice set of stakes and anvils you use?

I’m so glad you found me! For this particular tutorial, I used 18g wire so it would show well on video and be secure for the somewhat larger stones. If the stones were smaller, I would use either a bezel setting or a half-claw, half-bezel setting in sterling silver for more security of the stone.

@@JulessaScofieldMetalsmith tried it this morning/afternoon. I can’t count the number of times I dropped jump rings😂 . It took three + tries to get a good looking setting finally. Harder than you’d think at the outset for sure! ;) Settled on 16 gauge at the end because I melted one setting, sigh. It’s all good practice though!

@@christinemcdaniel9299 Yes! But you did it. That’s a huge accomplishment because it looks a lot easier than it actually is. Pat yourself on the back and know it will get easier each time you do it 😁

Glad it was helpful!

Hi Terri! Thank you so much! The brand is not so important but rather the plate type - meaning a full flat plate versus the open spiral type you see on an electric stove. And, depending on the size of the piece you’re trying to put the gold on, you may need an alternate source of heat. I found that a heat gun from a box store works well to help get the metal up to temperature. The other way is to use your torch to heat the piece to a high enough temperature for the gold to bond - this is a bit trickier 🤣 Hope these suggestions help.

@@JulessaScofieldMetalsmith Dear Julessa, Thank you for your reply. I thought I had it made last night after I tried the wire brush you suggested to test whether the gold had adhered, but after trying to put rouge on it to make the ring shine, a piece came off. I have tried both the flat plate & coiled hot plates. Everyone has a different way of doing Keum Boo. I had a spiral hot plate that did great, but it died. I tried it just as you did on a flat plate last night, but it didn't meet my expectations. I tried the Ultra Lite Kiln with no success with a temperature control. I didn't think of a heat gun. I guess I might try that or the torch next.

@@terrisidell7041 getting the temperature just right takes practice. I watch a gentleman on RUclips that only uses a torch to heat the silver to apply keum boo. It’s obvious he’s perfected the skill. The other thing that could be affecting the bond is the depth of your depletion or the depth of the fine silver you’ve brought to the surface. If it’s not adequate, the gold won’t bond correctly. So, it’s a combination of heat and the amount of depletion you’re able to achieve. Don’t give up, it takes lots of practice and patience to build up the skill😁

Thank you so much! 😊

Thank you so much! 😊

I have finally moved into a bigger studio, so this project is on my “To Do” list 🤗

Thank you soooo much bluefern! I am finally moved into my permanent studio so watch out for new videos coming your way. 😉

I will have to check that out! Thank you.

I have not yet, but I just moved my studio into a bigger space, so it will come soon! 😊

Thank you so much! 😀

I definitely do that for medium or large stones, but for the smaller, 4mm and less, I buy premade tubing.

Thank you so much! I’m so glad this is a good refresher. Good luck with your project. 😃

www.laval-europe.com/en/jewellery-tools/. Laval Europe is a great source for jewelers tools. You may want to start with their online store. Hope this helps. 😁

bravo madam

I don’t have them where I live, but my Gramma found one on the road in Oregon, which is how I ended up with some quills. 😄

Thank you 😁

Yay! I decided to show it all because I thought it would be helpful for others to see that even after 17 years of doing this, I still make mistakes. It usually comes from rushing or trying to do too many things at one time. I’ve learned when I focus and take my time, I have less of these frustrating moments. But, like anyone else, I still have days where I’m too caught up in my brain and forget to slow down 😁

Thank you Tammy! 😃

Thank you Jennifer! 😃

Thank you Rachel! 😃

Thank you Jennifer! 😀

Gracie! 😃

Thank you Ron! 😁

You are so welcome! 😊

That is very true, but for the purpose of practice, I wanted to show the use of easy solder. I have practiced flame control for many years in order to always use hard solder on all my joins for both costume and fine jewelry work. It is a habit I developed after finding weak and failed joins with hard wearing jewelry. I am very tough on jewelry, so I learned early on that medium & easy solder joins are not always reliable, especially for structural integrity. 😃

@@JulessaScofieldMetalsmith never the less you are teaching the use of easy solder, which is inferior. Heat control or no heat control hard solder must be used throughout the fabrication of the piece. When soldering the next step the previous solder joint must be heat sinked, if not the solder will weaken creating an inferior joint. Once upon a time asbestos was used as a heat sink, it is no longer allowed but there are other alternatives. Rio Grande should provide your needs. Another tip for inhibiting the flow of hard solder. Do not pickle the piece until all soldering is complete. The contamination will help inhibit the flow of hard solder on the previous soldering joints.🙂

Thank you for the additional information.@@NehpetsRellek

Not bad technique, most schools teach the use of the different solders with multiple solders on a piece. You’re welcome to your OPINION but that doesn’t make you an expert nor an opinion leader.

@@julescarlito1197 remain in your ignorance, that's your right.

Muchos gracias Adolfo! 😁

Yes, you could use stainless steel if you’re able to modify them to suit your needs.

@@JulessaScofieldMetalsmithThank you so much!

Yes, they are Lindstrom pliers, but they are about 18 yrs old so they don’t look like the newer ones 😄

Thank you so much! I’m glad you found me!

Absolutely! Great suggestion! I will put it on my list of videos to make.

Awww thank you so much Liz. I think sometimes it comes down to the teacher’s ability to clearly articulate the steps. I’ve taken a lot of classes that were helpful, but honestly, I’ve learned a lot more from doing things wrong 😁

😂 you’re right! You would think after 50 years I would have learned my lessons. Thank you so much for watching my video.