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I’m sure he doesn’t raise them all (doing so, and flooding the market with a crazy amount of frogs, would be quite irresponsible unless you have a really good plan for how to find good homes for them all). They usually slow and take a break on their own every now and then.

@@Tropical_Tutorials Right on. That definitely would be an issue. Been searching videos, getting ideas for a 1st time bearded dragon project, my niece dumped on me. I'm going to try and get it right for the guy. Glad I found your channel man, good stuff. Only sub to the channels I give 9s & higher to lol. Good stuff

@@petravermeer9328 I use alder cones instead of leaves, but catappa leaves/indian almond leaves is the standard

I wouldn't personally do it, but I don't have much experience with any tree frogs. They have different food requirements (red eyes take on much larger prey items compared to their own size compared to darts; you wouldn't want crickets running around in my dart frog vivarium, though you could potentially get around this by tong feeding etc). There could also a potential risk that they red eyes might actually eat the dart frogs if it's a smaller species. It might have a chance of working if you do a large dart frog species (tincs, terribilis, auratus, leucomelas), but I wouldn't try it with any smaller ones. Probably a good time to bring back the quote "if you have to ask, you shouldn't mix", or at least find someone more experienced with tree frogs than me to ask about it

@Tropical_Tutorials thank you

It's roughly 10-15 seconds roughly 5 times a day, but I have quite a lot of ventilation on the vivariums which I have a misting system on

@@Skylarwood54 In a proper bioactive dart frog setup there’s not much of a need for cleaning at all. I clean the glass and trim plants maybe five times a year, but even if you wait too long to do that it’s no problem (the frogs don’t mind dirty glass, since they can feel safer in the tank, and they love overgrown vivariums). With a bad substrate mix (specifically one that holds too much moisture and thus breaks down too quickly) you’ll also have to change out the substrate once it gets muddy and gross, but with a good, long lasting substrate mix you can keep it running for 10-20+ years without issues

@@franksantana6859 Absolutely, 3 wouldn’t be an issue either

Sounds like an awesome idea! Good luck. They work well together, but keep an eye on the anthonyi males (if you have too many anthonyi males they might stress out the vittatus)

I wouldn't claim that they are better (or worse) feeders than springtails, but springtails are great because they serve an additional purpose (cleaning) besides being food. I would definitely not skip the springtails in favor of aphids (though I currently don't have a springtail culture outside of my vivarium, I only have plenty of them in my vivariums). However, I think you'll probably get a higher mass of feeder insects from an aphid culture than a springtail culture (unless you have a BUNCH of springtails) so you can feed more frogs with them. In this video, I just thought comparing them to fruit flies was more relevant (since I use fruit flies as the base food source), and the thumbnail text "The best feeder insects?" (if you got that thumbnail, there are multiple thumbnails for this video) is mainly just to spark interest

@@Tropical_Tutorials Thank you for the info 😁 Great video btw 👍

If you can find some, I’d definitely give it a shot

I do sell froglets occasionally (nothing available at the moment though). However, I only do only local pickup in Sweden (near Gothenburg) or meetup at one of the SDS Swedish Frog Days

Yes I sell them. I sell them at SDS:s (Swedish Dendrobatid Society) Frog Days (basically an expo but only for dart frogs) and I also put them up for sale on some Swedish marketplace websites

The vivariums I have (mostly Exo Terras) can be bought from basically any pet store with vivarium related stuff, but I usually get them second hand (which is cheaper) from various Swedish marketplace websites. All the furniture I use is from IKEA

I leave them in the vivarium and let nature have it’s course (often times I don’t even find the eggs in the first place since I’ve removed the film canisters from my anthonyi vivarium)

Glad you're enjoying the content! Sounds like an awesome choice of first frogs. Hygrometers aren't always reliable in vivariums, and honestly, I don't think the exact humidity percentage is very relevant (I don't measure it at all). How much ventilation do you have (screen top, euro vent, only top or front ventilation etc.)? By far the most important thing is that there should be plenty of humid surfaces (for example leaves, hardscape, background etc.) in the vivarium, but there should also be some spots (for example leaf litter, hardscape, some leaves.) that dry out a bit between mistings. If the whole tank is soaking dripping wet, then that's a very bad sign (unless it's just right after misting it). To keep the balance between the actual relative humidity in the air and the "wetness" of the tank itself you might also need to limit the ventilation a bit (with a full screen top, the air will remain super dry even if the whole tank is soaking wet, but that doesn't sound like it's an issue in your tank) but if you've done that you should be good to go. I don't really have that much condensation on the glass in my vivariums, with the exception of my froglet tanks which happen to have very little ventilation. Good luck!

@@Tropical_Tutorials its a aquarium that i made a vivarium. So it has a lit. Its a acrylic lid. For now i leave a small gap around 0.5cm or so for air ventiliation. Before the frogs come i am planning on drilling small holes in the lid. I don’t soak the tank in water, maybe that is the problem that i actually don’t spray enough. My substrate is covered in dry leaves that, tbh, don’t get very wet when i mist. My bromellia leaves where getting yelow spots and i tought it could be overwatering. Do you know what brown/yellow spots on bromellias could be? Its a new tank so maybe it has to settle in a bit

Thank you!

Mixing different localities of the same species should never be done due to the risk for crossbreeds. I have a whole video dedicated to risks of keeping different dart frogs together (whether that be different species or different localities of the same species) so check that out if you want a more detailed answer

Many dart frogs can crossbreed or hybridize. Different localities (which are naturally occurring varieties from different populations in the wild, NOT morphs bred by humans like e.g. ball python morphs) can easily crossbreed and there are many cases where different species within the same genus can create fertile hybrid offspring (which goes against the schoolbook definition of a species, but that definition is rarely accurate in practice). However, creating crossbreeds and hybrids is highly frowned upon in the dart frog hobby, since the entire community unanimously strives to preserve these naturally occurring locales. For example, in the fish hobby, there are some cases where certain species have been hybridized and crossed to the point where it's impossible to find the original naturally occurring localities, and we want to avoid getting to that point.

Thank you so much!

It was a mix of coco fiber, sphagnum moss, exo terra forest moss, reptile bark and a bit of charcoal. After a year and a half, it was only half as deep as when I initially set it up and only mud with bark pieces in it remained. The main issue is having so much moss and coco fiber, since it degrades so quickly. Nowadays I prefer either mixtures with at least 70-80% reptile bark in them (I still recommend the mix I mentioned in my latest build video and my complete dart frog care guide) or just going substrateless (filter foam)