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@@jasonwakeman3821 Yes, this is pretty much the same distributor. The internal pieces. There's not much difference. There are these slant 6 and LA and B and RB series Mopar V8. They're all very, very similar now. The slant 6 does have a different shaft and different drive setup on the end of the distributor shaft and the shaft is shorter for a slant. 6. Also the gear driven and the diameter of the housing where it goes into the block is different but the internal parts up there in the distributor where all your advanced mechanisms and your all of that. All of those pieces are very very similar. I have interchanged stuff from an La small block Mopar into a slant 6 distributor and vice versa. So yes, they're very very similar, but I would also like to say thank you very much for your comment and thank you very much for your watching a video and really do appreciate it. If you have any further questions feel free to ask

@@slantfish65sd thank you so much for the reply to both my comments.. I inherited this 67 dart from my father after he passed from pancreatic cancer and he was the Mopar guy in my life and somehow I got into Chevy's. But now that I have this car I will definitely be watching more. Thanks again brother.👍👍👍

@@jasonwakeman3821 hey Jason, I actually had to look up Ricky, Bobby and Ricky Bobby's dad and I've never seen the movie. I'm not a fan of Will Ferrell just not my cup of tea but don't worry, your comment did not offend me or bother me in any way. Just want to say thank you so much for watching the video and thank you for your comment. All right. Have a great day! Have any further questions feel free to ask

Correct, no adjustments needed. The only small block Mopar with adjustable rockers is the early 273, not the 318, 340, 360. Hope this helps you out. This is why I love small block Mopars. SIMPLE.

That is correct. On call of your La Mopar V8 engines with hydraulic lifters. There is no valve lash adjustment. However, if you have solid lifters then you're going to have to have adjustable rocker arms like on the earlier 273 V8 or some of the 340 V8 thank you for watching the video and thank you for your comment. Have a great day. If you have any further questions feel free to ask

@@slantfish65sd I didn't know the some of the 340s had adjustable rockers as well. Thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍

Hey, thank you very much for your comment and also thank you very much for asking your questions and I do appreciate all of that. And thank you very much for watching the video. As for the 5.2 in the Jeep Grand Cherokee, is it a long life engine? Is it very problematic? I'm going to answer those questions for you. Actually you for a long life engine. You would be hard-pressed to make a better choice. The 318 5.2 l engine is one of the best engines at Mopar Chrysler Jeep has ever produced. That particular version you're talking about is known as the Magnum 5.2. it is really fantastic little engine. I love them! They are Rock, solid, durable, reliable. They make good power and there are a long lasting engine especially when people take care of them and maintain them. You know like changing the oil in the filter you know doing tune-ups and that sort of thing you know making sure that engine's got everything it needs in order to do its job correctly. These are all things that you need to be aware of or really any kind of vehicle, but whenever you're doing them on a vehicle you want to maintain and keep for a long time. This helps out tremendously. The only real negative problem you're going to find with the 5.2 Magnum V8 engine is the there is a plate that sits under the intake manifold. That plate is made of a very thin sheet metal and if it hasn't been replaced, that plate will warp sometimes and the gasket will will blow out and then it will start to consume engine oil. Now it won't be very much. It's just a very little amount over a long extended period of time. But the issue is is that it will consume that oil and it will have a vacuum leak. The best thing to do is to pull the intake manifold off, replace that plate with a new gasket and there's a company out of California called Hughes engines. They specialize in Mopar engines and they sell a kit that replaces that plate with a thick aluminum plate. You bolts a new gasket. It's a very high quality gasket too. That is really the only downside. That is the only downfall those engines have. But like I said I love those engines. They are fantastic and they are extremely durable. Very reliable. And you'd be hard-pressed to find something better. And again, thank you very much and also if you have any further questions feel free to ask

Also, don't worry too much about your bad English. It's okay, not a problem for me again. Have a great day

@@slantfish65sd THANKS so much for your advice! i have videos and more and more questions because i want to bouy a one 1995 (american origin) here in Buenos Aires, Argentina. My problem is, we not have so much culture about V8 engines, of course classical v8 like 302, 292 from Ford because we built it, and 318 too but for dodge polara v8, and from grand cherokee from 1995 to 1999 in Argentina. In another way, the next saturdat i will see a one for buy, but i have so many questions and i have photos and videos. Thanks so much for your answer, and again, sorry for my bad english, its my second language and i am trying to improve it.

Glad I could be of help. Any further questions feel free to ask

I want to say thank you very much for watching the video and thank you for your comment. I think this is Arabic that you've written in your comment. That is I'm not entirely certain. It's very pretty to look at but I cannot read it at all. I do apologize I haven't been able to figure out a way to decipher it and to English. So anyway, thank you very much and have a great evening

@@JamesTanner-um3on thank you for watching and thank you for learning your comments. Very much appreciated

@@elbeanerguy6021 hey, just saw your comment and I want to thank you for watching the video and thank you for your comment. As for the slop you have in your rocker arms that is pretty much standard. That's the way. Pretty much all of them are until the lifters are pumped up full of oil and pressurized by the oil pump when that happens after the first few seconds of engine run time then you will have the The valve train slop you're experiencing will go away and like I said, this is very common on a lot of your Mopar V8 engines. That has the shaft mounted rockers now however, if you run the engine for let's say the 20-minute break-in. That most people do and you still have a lot of slop in the rocker arms. Then you may have a bit of an issue. There may be a bit of a problem there. But anyway, thank you very much. If you have any further questions feel free to ask

@@slantfish65sd thank you for the answer😁

@@PhilipDennisonRockhound well I want to thank you so much for watching the video and I thank you for your comment. I honestly never thought about calling them plungers I think I recall somebody else saying that before but well plungers may be a better name. Who knows. But anyway, I think you so much for watching and I thank you for your comments. Have a great day God bless

Yeah I got the idea for using grocery carts for this. Put engines in and things of that nature ages ago and I read it in the Hot rod magazine or carcraft

@@slantfish65sd Aaaand you can pressure wash right through them!

Well thank you. Apocalypse 11. Obviously it's very obvious to me. You've never turned a wrench on any gen 3 hemi engines because of the fact that to replace a Canon lifters and these so-called obsolete engines, you have to go and remove the intake manifold, the valve covers and the front timing cover and all of your front end accessories on a hemi gen 3. You have to remove all of those parts plus the cylinder heads too. And when you're removing that timing cover your oil pump. Pickup tube is attached to that front timing cover cuz your oil pump is in that front timing cover. Oh those obsolete are 10 times more reliable and durable? And furthermore, are you going to pay for any of this? I don't think You are see the real joke here is on you. You're trying to throw some hate and some shade my way. And the reality is all you've done is just made my channel that much more popular

@@sidewyndersshed1676 yep!

@@blownaway4371 awesome! Sounds like a great project and thank you for your comments and thank you for watching the video

@@rosieclark3661 Good to know. I'll try to keep that in mind I've known about lacquer center being a really good cleaner for a very long time. I usually don't use it because of the cost. It's usually more expensive, some other cleaners and degreasers, but it does clean very well. It does an excellent job of cleaning but like this was just a test to test the barramins to see how well it cleaned and it does exactly what it says. And the bearman's is more expensive than the lacquer center because you're not getting a cord of that. And it's it's about seven bucks. I don't exactly remember what size that you can is for berryman's but anyway, that's it. Great information. Thank you very much

@@scottp4063 yeah I was pretty clear they were meant to do a job. Do it really well. My idea was to have much in the way of creature comforts

@@rusttrail3 yeah those old Macs like that. Those DM series they built work and lots of it. Seems like I've read that that gold colored Mac bulldog on the hood meant that it was an all Mac driveline. I don't know. I can't remember if I actually said that in the video or not. I hope I did but anyways like I said in the video though I do remember saying this that I'm not as knowledgeable about Mack trucks as I am more knowledgeable about some of the other brands of trucks

Hey, thank you for your comment and thank you for watching I should have like stressed what this engine is going to be used for. I have stressed that in the previous videos that it's going to be used in a 1983 Dodge Ram D150 that truck will just be pretty much be used just in drag racing and as long as we keep antifreeze in the block I don't have to worry about it rusting out and it's not like we're going to build this engine one time and that's it. No it's going to be built and we're going to make changes to it and stuff like that. Probably a bunch of different times so that's that. Little place in the cylinder wall is not that big of a problem. I mean it's most of the time. Yes it would be a problem but for an engine of this general nature it's it's a little bit of a disappointment but it's not that bad. Like I said, we're going to be using this and drag racing. It's not going into a street car or nothing like that. It's just going to be going into a truck that's B will be used specifically just for drag racing

And as far as the hole being weak, as long as it can withstand the pressure of of the water temperature and that pressure there it will see there with that then there won't be a problem. I'm going to pressurize the block. Probably going to put like some cylinder heads on it and just to pressurize it or some. I'm going to figure out some way to pressurize the block just so that I can make sure that that's not going to blow out. So anyway, thank you for watching

Hey thank you for watching and thank you for your comments. As to your question, I didn't show the actual grinding because I do show the the part that I cut off off the top of the ball joint You can also grind that off if you wanted to. All you got to do is just be careful. Don't grind into the control arm itself. The only reason I ground and cut that top of that ball joint off is because it was starting to flare out and mushroom out and was making removing the ball joint even harder. Mine had rusted into the control arm just a little bit All you got to do is just be careful and just grind down the part of the Ball joint sticks up above the control arm. You just want to grind that down so that it doesn't mushroom or flare out

Thank you for watching and thank you for your comments. I'm happy I could be of assistance. If you have any further questions feel free to ask

Paul, thank you very much. As to where is my battery on my truck? No, it is not under the hood up front in the left front corner like it would normally be. It's actually it's in the bed at the rear behind the right rear tire. I relocated it there. Oh maybe 12 years ago or longer but helps with traction a little bit and I always wanted to do it and I thought hey I'll do it on this and if it works really well on this with its computer and electronic fuel injection and everything like that then it's going to work really well on my barracuda which is exactly what I did and I didn't use a kit for either one. I just went and measure the cable length that I was going to need and then bought that and used that and then bought battery boxes for both vehicles and then I made my own hold Downs. So there we go and again thank you very much for watching and thank you very much for your questions and comments. And I've never seen a Shelby Dakota in the flash so I have yet to examine the exhaust manifolds on one. But they sound interesting and that was still pre-magnum times. Would have been interesting if Carol Shelby had access to the Magnum engine for use in the Dakota or let's say a certain little sports car that's named after a snake anyway, if you got any further questions feel free to ask. I'll be talking to you again soon

Hello Randall, I just saw your comment. I want to thank you for that and also thank you for watching. As to your comment, you do not have to remove the heads on an LA Mopar or a Magnum Mopar small block, which both of those are very closely related. So any of those 273 318 340 360 and yes, even the 239 V6 all of those do not have to have the heads removed in order to change out a cam. You do have to remove the intake manifold so remove the intake manifold. You can leave the distributor in place. You do not have to remove that either. Drain the coolant. Remove the intake, manifold and carburetor assembly and the lifters will be right there available to you. You will have to remove the valve covers and the rocker shafts and rock arm assemblies. Then you can remove the pushrods and then the lifters. Then of course you have to move everything on the front of the engine. All your water pump alternator, power steering pump, all of that stuff and timing cover if you have any further questions feel free to ask

First of all I want to say thank you very much for your watching the video and thank you very much for your comments. I'm very happy I can be of assistance helping you with your 318. If you have any further questions feel free to ask

Thank you for watching and thank you for your comments

Hey Ramcharger! I want to say thank you very much for your comment and thank you for watching the video now to your question you are 78360 is taking and it sounds like it's coming from the passenger side. Okay, here are some things to look for first. If I were looking at it I would be checking out. Where is the noise coming from exactly? You can use the stethoscope that has the long metal probe you don't have to pay a lot of money for these. You can buy these at harbor freight. If you don't have those, you can use like a very long handled screwdriver even a piece of pipe or even a broom handle will work. Have the engine running and see where you can determine the sound at. However, you say in your comment you were told to put the intake back on, so I'm assuming right now you don't have the engine riding. However, here's some other things to check for. Since you don't have the intake on, you might want to do this. One simple thing. Take a marker, preferably something in a Bright color and then make a vertical line on each pushrod then have someone turn the engine over with the starter. This would probably work better if you remove all the spark plugs then once it is turning over, look at all the pushrods and make sure they're rotating as they're going up and down. That will tell you if you have a lifter that is wiped out or not. If you have all of these rotating then most likely you've probably got a pretty good lifter. However, here's some other things to check for, pull your valve covers and make sure that all of your rock arms are don't have too much slop when the Piston is at top dead center on each cylinder check to make sure that there isn't too much slop You should have a minimal amount of play between the pushrod and the rocker arm basically with your Mopar LA engines you put the rocker shaft assembly on with the rockers and once that's home that's pretty much it. There is no other adjustment procedures also check to make sure that You don't have any sort of broken valve springs or any other parts of the valve train that are messed up broken or just missing. Be sure to check for both sides, driver and passenger side. Even though you said the sound sounds like it's coming more from the passenger side, I have seen plenty of instances where sound noises will travel in. That vibration will travel in the metal and it's very much a reality when working on vehicles. When you do get the engine running, make sure you don't have an exhaust leak. Sometimes there are certain exhaust leaks that will cause a ticking sound. I'm seeing that half a plenty of times too. Also make sure your timing chain isn't too terribly worn out. I know these last two require the engine to be running but I needed to put those in there help you make an informed decision also, if you do have too much slop or play in the valve train push rod to rock arm, there could be something wrong with the lifter even though it may be rotating like it's supposed to when in operation there can be problems with the valve and spring and the seat that the pushrod sits in. I'm assuming this is all hydraulic lifters just make sure that you don't have problems with that. Sometimes some lifters won't pump up completely because there is bits of carbon that is caught in the lifter and it won't get out so that's lifter can pump up fully. I currently have a problem with that in my '92 d150 if the truck sits for too long One or more lifters will leak or bleed down just a little bit and then after I have the engine running for a little bit the ticking sound goes away and then after it's run for maybe 20 minutes or so, the ticking sound is completely gone. This doesn't happen all the time. It is a very very random thing and this is on an engine. Has very high miles but also really well maintained okay, that's all I can think of right now at the moment. If I come up with anything else I'll try to help you out and get that information to you as well. And again, thank you very much. Oh one more thing. Check your oil pressure. Make sure you got good oil pressure that can be done with the engine. Not running just the starter turning the engine over

As far as leading the brakes, the only time you need to leave them is when you open the system up, meaning like you're changing a brake hose or a caliper or a wheel cylinder or a master cylinder or a brake line anytime you open one of the take one of those parts off or open the system up like one of the screws then yes, you do need to bleed the system, but if you're just changing out pads rotors, anything like that that is outside of the brake system. That is the external components of the brake system that don't involve the actual brake fluid coming in contact with those parts then no, you do not need to bleed your system if you're just changing out pads and rotors or in the case of drum brakes, shoes and drums then no you do not need to open up the system and bleed it at all. However, do let me stress this topping the brake system off. Really there's no real harm in it. You can do it. I don't necessarily recommend it but there's no real harm in it. The only real bad part is is that when you go to replace your pads and rotors you're going to be compressing the Piston in the caliper and then that will make that fluid. That is in the system. Will have to go somewhere. It'll have to escape the caliper and then go back to the master cylinder when that happens. That means that that full master cylinder is now overflowing with brake fluid. So you're just going to have a big mes I myself when the fluid gets down a little bit low I will note it. I won't notice it, but if it does, if it doesn't continuously get lower then I'm not really worried about it. However, let me also stress this brake fluid is something that needs to be changed out every couple of years. That's the way it's supposed to be. However, there's lots of cases where that's not always. Follow if that happens and the brake fluid isn't changed every couple of years and then in that case yes you do need to bleed the brake system but brake fluid can absorb moisture out of the air and over time it does get the brake fluid can get damaged and worn by all of the use over the years. But if we're talking about just change of pads and rotors then no don't you don't have to bleed your brakes. Now you can go to a garage and a reputable one and have your brake fluid flushed which they will use a machine that will hook up to all your calipers and then all your wheel cylinders and then also to your master cylinder and it will. Basically it will remove all the old brake fluid and then if they will replace that with new brake fluid. But I would like to also say thank you so much for watching and for your comments if you have any other questions you'd like to ask, let me know very much and I bless

Thank you so much for watching the video and thank you for your comment. As to your comment, yes, the 318 is an extremely capable engine. I think some people are really starting to realize just how good they can be now. Of course there are limits to everything and there's going to be. You know some people will break a few blocks and break a few crankshafts and that sort of thing and there's going to be some limits but they are tremendously capable engines like a lot of other Mopar agents. Whatever reason, probably because and this is. This is probably because the three teams never really put into any accounts are performance application so they don't think of the 318 as being a performance engine. Some people either think that the 360 can't be built as a performance engine and at the 340 is the only way to go and it's no that's hogwash so anyway, yeah I completely agree with you. 318 is a great engine. You have any further questions feel free to ask

That would be a great idea to do that and I've got quite a few camshafts piled up that I can do that with. There's also Hughes engines out of California. They do that as well. The only problem is is just one of money so yeah I got to come up with the money before I send off a cam but I very much appreciate your information. I was aware of the larger manifolds in the 92 and '93 model but like I said in the video that the later Magnum manifolds that has the smaller outlet is like you pointed out 1 and 7/8 is still better by a pretty wide margin. Then the old log manifolds that all the LA mopars had forever but again, thank you very much

Hey, thank you! I really appreciate you watching and I appreciate your comments

Really appreciate you watching the video and thank you for your comments

You're very welcome. Glad I can help any further questions feel free to ask

If you're referring to that hose is at the top of the manifold then yes, you're going to need to plug that up. If you don't, you could have the code come up for the EGR and only that you could have quite a bit of noise coming out of there as well unless you plug it off. But I would also like to say thank you very much for watching video and thank you for your questions

Hello Robert, first of all let me say thank you very much for watching the video and thank you for your comments. As for your comment, can you simply install three 40 heads and intake or does the compression drop okay? Yes, you can install the 340 heads and the intake typically most of the time when we're talking stock 318 bottom end. Pistons block crank rods. All of that and 340 heads put on a 318 usually will result in a compression drop. However, there are several items that can play into that now. If the particular heads you've got in mind have a smaller combustion chamber, whether that's been done by milling the heads down or their aftermarket heads and they had a smaller combustion chamber to begin with. That's something to think about. The combustion chamber size is important. There are books out there and there is information online that tells you how big that combustion chamber will be. Roughly how big it'll be according to the casting number and different casting numbers can have different combustion chamber sizes. Some smaller, some larger now also too. Something that plays into this is the bore size of that 318. If that bore has been altered like it's been bored out some that can play into that that can have an effect if the block has been decked, meaning the the deck of the block where the cylinder head bolts on. If that's been milled down that can have an effect on the compression as well. And also the depth that the Piston sets in the bore if it's 5,000 of an inch down in the bore then that's going to be better than it's sitting 120,000s down in the bore or if it's zero deck, meaning the Piston as is zero flush with the top of the deck. Another thing that can play really importantly into this is the camshaft the amount of overlap it has in degrees of crankshaft rotation. So say if a camshaft has three degrees of overlap then it's not going to have very much overlap and it's not going to make much effect on your static compression ratio. Now, if you get a cam that has more overlap a lot of your performance camshafts do then that can affect compression ratio even more and can bleed off more compression. However, let's keep something in mind. The flow capabilities of your average 340 head is going far exceed the the limitations of the lower compression. So yes the compression will drop but your flow capabilities will go up tremendous amount and if you want to retain some of that compression then you need to be looking at thinner head gaskets but before you start buying anything you need to be measuring and checking things out. So start getting out the calipers and start looking at everything. Start checking things out and start doing a little math. There are websites where you can upload all of these numbers like the thickness of your head gasket when it is compressed your combustion chamber size, your depth of your piston and the bore. The bore size everything and they'll tell you what your compression ratio will be with a given head. It's very informative and it's very helpful. The 360 that I built has a compression ratio of 8.996.1 and yes, the head's got milled down but if it were my engine, I would be looking at getting more air flow instead of being terribly concerned about your compression ratio. Pressure ratio is very important but air flow is really important. Even more important. Furthermore, you need to be checking if the valves on the 340 heads will clear the bore of your 318, especially if the engine hasn't been bored at all. If it's stock more, you need to check and make sure that the valves can open and close without there being any kind of interference. Usually there isn't usually but on a stock. Bore 318 340 heads the valves tend to get shrouded by the cylinder wall so you lose a little bit of flow there I know that was long-winded but there's a whole lot of ground to cover when you start talking about compression ratios and you start talking about cylinder heads and everything like that. Your idea isn't bad. It's actually a really good idea. It's just there's a lot of details you got to cover. Thank you again. If there's anything else you need let me know

Howdy, thank you very much for watching the video and thank you for your comments. Yes, you are correct. The spindle is very heavy when you have the rotor and caliper attached to the spindle. However, I wanted to keep them together, but either way works really well. Your way is probably a little bit better, it just involves a little more work. Anyway, thank you very much for watching again and if they you have any other further questions feel free to ask

Okay. Cedric seems as though you have a problem with My content that I create that I put on the channel that you're watching for free. Pretty amazing how that you didn't pay for a damn thing and you're sitting there complaining about it. I guess nothing more than just another entitled childish individual and furthermore, if you don't like the video nobody's fortunate you to watch it and if you can do better then go on and do it. But I checked out your channel. You only have like three videos on there for what 9 years that you've been up on RUclips so good luck with that

Hey, thank you for watching the video and thank you for your comments and I totally agree with you on your statement. However, I haven't seen that truck there at that location in some time. Probably close to a year now. I hope it has been sold to somebody else that particular salvage yard does like to sell stuff instead of scrapping it. And like I said, I hope somebody has bought it and is in the process of at least putting it back on the road or possibly restoring it. Here's the problem with restoring any vehicle. It's really super expensive especially today. It stuff is just sometimes tripled or even quadrupled in in price. I mean stuff like paint just the paint paint. Something is ridiculous anymore. It's just gotten so crazy anymore. Just trying and restore anything. People see my cars and my trucks in there like oh you need to restore that and they don't think about what it cost. And then not only that if you turn it over to a shop somebody else to restore it. The labor Ray is just astron and amical. It is just insane. I mean you have to restore stuff yourself pretty much unless you're a zillionaire or something like that anyway, sorry I ranted have a great day and again thank you for your comments

@@slantfish65sd yes your absolutely right, the price of materials and parts is just ridiculous anymore. They want us to buy new(junk)equipment rather than repair and maintain older equipment which like you said was built to last for generations. My cousins live in SE Ky so I too have a sense of pride when it comes to coal trucks especially Mack’s.I grew up hauling Blue Gem coal all over the mountains in Harlan, Hazard etc. To me, Mack is America 🇺🇸.

Hey Paul thank you very much for your comments and thank you for watching also I will check out those freeze out plugs and have a great father's day

Paul if you want to you can send me that info through my Gmail account slantfish65sd@gmail.com

Hey B series Vans, just wanted to let you know I'm working on a really good answer for you or answers for your questions, what parts to use and that sort of thing and I haven't forgot about you. Just gathering up the information so I can hand it to you and let you know what will work better and satisfy your need for power

Hey B series Vans, okay, I think I tried to answer your questions effectively but this is going to be very long-winded. There is so so so much ground to cover here so I've decided that I'm just going to make a video about this. I think this would answer your questions much. Much better your power goals. I'm not so sure if we can get there if I had more information about your van. Like what engine you have and what have you done to it? Like modifications if any at all. Anything like that would help out tremendously. I mean even basic stuff would help so I will be working on making a video and putting that out probably this coming week. So thank you very much and thank you for watching the video and thank you for your comments. Really appreciate you

That intake manifold you're referring to, you can find it on pickup trucks especially 1 ton d350 dually pickup trucks. Also fans especially the b350 also any cop cars? The cop cars came with that manifold and they had that manifold on the 360s and then there was some cop cars with 318 that also had that manifold then of course there's also just any rear-wheel drive. V8 Mopar anytime I go into a salvage yard I just look at most any of them that I know is going to be V8 rear-wheel drive and carbureted. So just look for any Dodge truck from or van or rear-wheel drive cars from Year model 88 and back and You should be able to find a manifold. Also Facebook marketplace. I've seen a few floating around on there and eBay

And I just wanted to say thank you very much for watching the video and thank you for your comments. Any further questions feel free to ask

Thank you for watching the video and thank you for your comments. And yes, your fuel pump will be next to your alternator on the carbureted models pretty much 1987 and back if you have any further questions feel free to ask

Also forgot to add this earlier. 88 and later Dodge trucks have the electric fuel pump in the tank because of fuel injection 318 and 239 engines had fuel injection starting at 88 and later on up $360 got the fuel injection n89

@@slantfish65sd also, why wouldn't gas pass if all I did was replace fuel hoses and a new fuel filter.

@@HeavyJay1421 hey just seen your comment. Sorry about not getting to it sooner. As for gas, not passing, not getting to the carburetor or the fuel injectors, It could be a weak pump. Make sure you did not hook the wrong lines in the wrong places. If we're talking about a mechanical pump, usually electric fuel pumps will have different size lines for supply and return usually also make sure that the sock in the fuel tank isn't plugged up. One other thing you can do is unhook the fuel lines from either the throttle body or the carburetor. Whatever you have then get this. Only works if you have compressed air so you got to have an air compressor hook the air compressor hose up to a blow nozzle and then take the blow nozzle. Put it into the gas filler hole. The same hole that you put your gas into. Wrap a rag around that end of that blow nozzle to take up the big gap. You want to seal up the gap between the nozzle and where the fuel goes in. Once you do that, start putting air compressed air shooting compressed air into the tank. The fuel tank. When you do that you're going to pressurize the fuel tank and you're going to push fuel to the front up there to the carburetor. Okay now you could also disconnect the lines at the mechanical fuel pump if you have such a thing and you could also do this okay there could be some plug or something plugging the fuel lines. You can also do this backwards whereas you take the lines loose fuel hoses lines from the mechanical pump. Push in air into the tank from there from the fuel pump. Mechanical fuel pump back into the tank. If you do that, you should be able to hear bubbling of the air bubbling in the gas in the tank and then of course the most basic most obvious thing. Please make sure you have fuel in the tank

@@slantfish65sd just replaced the fuel pump it isnt electric.gas still wont go into the carb I pulled the filter but want go up just stays in the bottom filter nothing in the return

First of all I would like to say thank you for watching and thank you for your comment and about that you're joking right? You do know this stuff is flammable highly flammable. I mean it goes in your fuel tank and it's being burned along with your fuel in an engine

Thank you very much. Really appreciate you watching the video and I really appreciate your comments. Have a great day!

Thank you for watching the video and thank you for your comments. Yeah, this video was centered around the two-wheel drive trucks and while there is some of these modifications, we'll work on either two or four-wheel drive the reverse rotation steering gear box. I've never even heard of that but there again I don't do a whole lot with four-wheel drives but sounds cool anyway. And the mini starters. Yeah that's always a great idea. You got to be careful though with some of them that that rounded piece on the nose of the starter that goes into the bell housing. Some of those are different sizes and they won't work with your bell housing. So just something to be careful about. But yes, the mini Mopar mini starter is a great idea and they are proven and saves about 7 lb