Видео

I am sub $1K with the few upgrades. Love it. Again, love your videos and have helped me TONS!

Birchwood Casey Perma Blue.

Yeah. Sick deal. I should have waited a few months but I was excited to try one out.

I did notice the plastic of the grip module is a little flimsy around the fire control unit where the trigger bar hangs out. Thanks for sharing your experience. i see how this could be an issue with a lot of use maybe. Good call sending back to Ruger. Its their baby. and in my experience they do have kick ass customer service! Hope it gets resolved for you!

@@EngineersArmory In my case this issue started occurring around the 500 round mark. I certainly don't use this pistol for casual target practice.... just enough to assure competence and reliability. One of the sources I quoted indicated that even after he sent the pistol back for repairs the issue re-occurred. Unless they have an explanation I may have to move on. I'm hoping not as this pistol is ideal for hip pocket carry. I'm looking at the new S&W Bodyguard 2.0 but I'd like to see one disassembled to determine if it might be susceptible to the same issue. I have not shot or handled one yet but it appears the muzzle is slightly longer and the grip may be a bit longer as well.

I directly mention it at 00:41. also there is a disclaimer in the description. If there is any doubt at all dont attempt this. take it to a qualified gusmith. However AKs are very crude weapons with very crude trigger groups and will have significantly more tolerance to changing angles of trigger engagement surfaces and knocking off sharp edges. Of course, always err on the safe side. Thats why I mention only polishing the surfaces that are already established, dont change surface angles, or knock off sharp edges.

My guess would be you didn't put something back together correctly and now there is a leak in the tubing going into your intake, vacuum leak/boost leak. Check that you reconnected everything properly. Thats where i would start.

Appreciate the response. I wasn't able to find the issue yeyt, but a vacuum leak definitely makes sense. Thanks

haha no sir! sorry.

​@@EngineersArmoryaaaw man... lol

Going to be a great starting point for a competition pistol! Enjoy! Thanks for watching and commenting.

Asking the real questions here. General rule of thumb I learned years back was rpm= 400/diameter of bit (inches). So for example: 1/4" drill bit. 400/.25 is 1600 rpm. Of course this changes with material, bit type, bit material, your feed rate (if milling) etc. But that's a good starting point for steel with a typical HSS drill bit.

hahah yeah pretty much. Try to install it. maybe do it a little hard so it leaves marks. file. try again. repeat.

@@EngineersArmory awesome thank you. i got my m90 and the stock mag nor ac unity mags fit :(

@@Tdow56 The stock mag doesn't fit?! rude! call Zastava, hopefully they would send you out a new one.

What aspect of the recoil feel is "better" to you?

@@EngineersArmory overal, it’s the recoil impulse feel. Take a Glock 17 which has a 17 pound spring, change that to an 11 pound spring and go see how you like the feel of the recoil. See were your second round hits when shooting double taps

@@83tactical Ah gotcha. The lighter spring doesn't cause as much muzzle dip when the slide comes back into battery leading to quicker follow up shots. Slide also cycles faster. I have done a ton of reocil spring tuning on all sorts of pistols and i generaly like a bit lighter of a recoil spring than factory as well.

factory.

The conventional trigger systems are nicer. I have Omegas with Cajun gun works short reset kits and their triggers with overtravel screws - makes a big difference. Still not as good as the conventional system though.

Oh I have "know" idea?? 😂 hell yeah brother tell me about it!

@@EngineersArmory damn auto type lol

@@danmatthews5364 Know... You're right... I dont no what I'm talking about. I don't no nothing boss. I just work here.

@@EngineersArmory correct. You do as you are told.

@@EngineersArmory you are bad at what you do.

Its probably the next pistol I am buying but I dont know that ill have the funds to buy it before the end of the year. I have a crazy build planned for it too.

I dont have experience with those. If it has "standard" 1911 internals it should have a spring leaf on the back of the disconector, and one on the sear. maybe the grip safety does push one of the spring leaves forward instead of the main spring housing? You could try removing the beavertail and leave the main spring housing installed, and see if the trigger still functions normally. if it does you could look at what is moving when the trigger is actuated and reset to get an idea. Without having really detailed pictures of the internals or playing with my self all I can do is speculate. I don't really see any videos on detailed full disassembly online.

Okay i found the parts diagram online. Looks like it has a standard ignition system design. Looking at the back of the pistol, the left leaf of the spring will be on the back of the sear, the right leaf will be on the back of the disconnector. Adjust the right leaf to change your trigger pull weight. This will also affect your take up weight and reset positivity. Be careful, make little adjustments. make sure to safety and function check the pistol after any adustments.

Yeah it’s regular sear setup, but when you take the sear spring out of the gun, the right leg is pulled way back and pointing back at you, how the 3rd leg usually looks when you have a fully functioning grip safety. I’ve just never seen that before. Normally when I lay my other 1911 sear springs in, the first and second legs of the spring are making contact the sear and disconnect. It’s the hammer strut that pushes back into the ignition when you install the mainspring. If I sent you a picture of the seer spring out of the gun, it would look bent like the first and third leg on a regular sear spring with the grip safety leg cut off. That’s what makes me scratch my head when I think about where to bend on the second leg. I’m sorry, I’m sure you’ll see what I’m talking about if you have one come across your way for some work.

@@Bryan-1980 huh that's really weird! There are a lot of guns I wish I could get my hands on without buying them. That's one of them haha.

If you have an FFL or a local shop, I could send you mine. I’ve got 8 guns in my carry rotation and the Kimber hasn’t made it into rotation yet because I haven’t had put enough rounds through it to vet it.

For perfectly fine *on your specific pistol.* I suspect that the poor QC and tolerancing on this footprint will lead to the same optic not fitting one slide, but fitting another. Thanks for sharing your data point tho! It's good to hear some people are getting optic cuts that dont have issues with their particular optic.

More of an annoyance. Biggest detriment to accuracy was the damn 6 pounds pull haha.

Respectfully disagree. I have shot a lot of compensated and ported pistols of all sizes, barrel lengths, and slide masses. Never came across one that was over driven. Ive experienced that on rifles a few times. The muzzle gets pushed down due to aggressive compensation when the shot is fired. I have shot this pistol now and my buddy has shot it a lot too. The porting did reduce muzzle rise, but certainly does not drive the muzzle down. Just my thoughts here based on my experience and understanding of these systems: I dont think any compensator or ports would be able to drive the muzzle down on a 9mm semi automatic pistol with a browning tilting barrel system. The way the guns are designed, how the barrel unlocks, the perpendicular separation distance of the bore and slide mass reciprocating from the pivot point of the pistol in your hand, and the compression of the recoil spring should always result in some muzzle rise. I have measured as low at 7-9 degrees of muzzle rise on some of my ported pistols. But there is always some. If you have something more than anecdotal evidence of a tilting barrel action, 9mm, semi-automatic pistol that was over-compensated to the point the muzzle dipped when fired, I would love to see it.

You have a lot of obscure firearms knowledge and I love hearing it ahaha

@@EngineersArmory I'm become a reservoir of esoteric gun knowledge. It pays off sometimes, hahaha

Oh interesting. Chamber must be too deep. I tried the Ed brown and factory barrel. Light primer strikes with both.

@@EngineersArmory that’s one of the ideas I had. Also, thinking something with the geometry changed and now the striker safety block isn’t being fully moved out of the way and giving proper clearance for the striker. I noticed Ed Brown sells a striker block that is longer and states it’s for avoiding light primer strikes.

@@tacticaltimeteller126 huh that's interesting. I dont really see how a new barrel would affect the spriker block. That's disengaged by the trigger bar.

@@EngineersArmory something this the locking lug causing the slide to sit higher making the trigger bar not engage as much. Purely speculation though

@@tacticaltimeteller126 oh okay. I guess. If the slide tolerances were loose enough for it to be spaced up that much. Seems like they wouldnt be and the striker block should have more of a margin for complete disengagement. I remember I tried Apex and the factory strike blocks on mine as well. Light primer strikes with both. Factory trigger bar used with apex trigger.

pretty much comes down to preference and your use case for the gun. shooting characteristics will be a little different. The MAC 9 DS only comes with a 4.25" barrel. The Tisas 5" duty Tisas has a 4 slot picatinny rail on the dust cover, the 4.25" carry version only has a 3 slot rail.

ruggedsuppressors.com/suppressor-guide-cat/suppressor-attachments/ This shows how the components go together. When you get your Obsidian 45 it will come with a .578"x28 piston in the booster assembly. you'll unscrew the muzzle attachment cap, pull the booster out, keep track of the orientation of the parts. Put it back together the same way but with your 16x1 piston.

@@EngineersArmory thank you 🫡

I state that with the new nuzzle device installed on the barrel, the overall length came out to 16.4". I think this is about a 3" muzzle device (dont have the gun with me so I cant measure) The threads are probably the standard .600" long. That means with the muzzle device up against the thread shoulder it adds 2.4". 2.4 added to 14 gives me that 16.4 OAL. That means minimum muzzle device length with it tightened up against the shoulder to give you 16 inches exactly would be 2.6". Any timing shims will make the OAL slightly longer.

@@EngineersArmory Thanks! That's great information.

this design has 5/32" diameter ports. .230" spacing between center of ports (this leaves about .075" material between the ports). I don't do ports of this diameter anymore. 7/64" is the biggest I do to limit spalling and disrupt the bullet as little as possible. a line of four 7/64" (.109") diameter ports would be a good total cross sectional area for a 4 inch barrel. above 4 inch barrels I have been doing V6 and V8 ports. I like .075" minumum material between ports so I add .075" to the diameter of my ports to get my center spacing. for 7/64" holes I space them .185" on center. Hope this helps with your hypothetical question 😉

@@EngineersArmory Thank you for the prompt and precise reply. Sometimes I wonder if my entire engineering degree was hypothetical indulgence…real life is way too different from a classroom setting…

@@KamalAhmed-r7t getting your hands on projects, machining, turning wrenches. Way different than what we learn in the classroom. Both are fundamental and extremely important.

damn near! i got large hands and this is a tiny ass gun haha.

Ones from amazon and brownells. I recently posted a video on polishing on my channel. There is links to everything I use in the description of that video. Check that out if you want specifics.