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No issues so far. Only drawback of the LCI slides is the quick fouling of your optic lens... but wipe it off every 50 rounds haha.

Appreciate your kind words. I hope you continue to find the video helpful as you work with your Prodigy. The left side thumb safety should only come out in one specific position and that is between the on and off safe positions. This is intentional as the gun is either off safe or on safe, and only briefly passes the position it can come out as you sweep it on or off. I would try taking the spring plunger out (so you're not fighting it), then take the right side safety out (rotate it up then pull out once the left side one is out). Then only install the left side safety. put it all the way down and see if it comes out, all the way up and see if it can come out - it should not in either position. I took a picture of mine and uploaded it to my reddit account. There is a little ridge that I drew an arrow pointing too. I bet your safety is missing it. That is what holds the safety in the frame in both the on safe and off safe position. www.reddit.com/user/rrppdd4/comments/1gz9t1f/1911_safety_detail/ Likely the left side thumb safety is the cause. The hole in the frame needs to be a specific shape though as well so if that wasn't machined properly that could cause it too (seems less likely to me). The left and right side safety should fit together snugly in the center. This video shows how to tighten it up (00:28 - 01:15): ruclips.net/video/ZYghQPO8w1E/видео.html However even if they join together loosely with the tongue and groove in the center - that would not cause the left side one to come out. Let me know what you figure out. it should likely go back to Springfield either way. If the thumb safety is the cause, and you plan on replacing it then maybe not. If the thumb safety is the cause, you need a new one.

@@EngineersArmory you’re amazing dude thank you. Seriously. I’m 99.9 % I found the issue. So I watched the atlas video you referred and I saw when he fits the safety together to check fitment I see that the male and female are flush so I fit mine together and see the male is too long by and 1/8 inch so I do more investigating and find that any pressure on either side will eventually wiggle it out since it doesn’t finish flush. I hope I explained that correctly I’d send you a picture but i can’t here. So now my question is, should I mill out that 1/8 on the female ? Or just get a whole new safety, I was only avoiding sending it to springfield because I heard of the turn around times are either good or horrible, but if this is an easy fix I’m more then willing to do it Again, you’re amazing thank you so much

@@stitch8786 I think I understand what you're saying. What is easier than making the female groove deeper - is make the male tang shorter haha. Also if they do not fit all the way together, that means the left side safety will never actually engage all the way into the frame and be captured properly. the big flat part of the safety (perpendicular to where you rest your thumb) should be flush up against the frame. Do the test I outlined in my last reply. right side safety out, spring and plunger for left side safety removed, can you install the left side safety all the way? can you only install and pull it out half way between engaged and disengaged? can you pull it out when fully up or down? if it works properly without the right side safety installed, that means the interface between the two safety halves is causing your problem - likely they dont fit all the way together.

@ yes sir. 100% it’s the interface, I did the test you explained and it worked as you described, only come out when it’s in that middle spot. If my brain is working correctly even if i shorten the male would it be too slim for the frame ? If that’s the case I just need a new safety

@stitch8786 measure the frame width. Measure the width between the left and right side safety when they are put together. You will either need to shorten the tip of the male side, or the two tips of the female side.

I appreciate the kind words. I'm really standing on the shoulders of giants here with the information I am presenting.

hammer (main) spring weight has nothing to do with the ammo - that is more related to how heavy/light you want your trigger and how much margin you have on the primer strikes. 14# recoil spring was about right for my 115 and 124 grain range ammo. After I ported it, i dropped it down to a 13#.

@@EngineersArmorywhat hammer spring weight is reliable and lighter you recommend?

@@erice4611 I pretty much run 17# in all my 1911s now regardless of my desired trigger weight. never had a light primer strike and I always run extra power firing pin springs. But a big part of that is preference. There is a give and take trade off between sear spring adjustment and hammer spring weight. I prefer heavier take ups and more positive resets so I go a little lighter on my main spring.

agreed. They make the 4 slot frame for the MAC9. Why not use that for the Tisas DS carry? ridiculous.

For the grip safety (which i assuming is the radius you're asking about) its somewhere between .178 - .203". The frame radius is not even centered over the thumb safety pin hole. Seems Tisas did their own thing with the frames on these.

They definitely did their own thing.

The long one. I have large sized hands. Just about the right length for me.

@@EngineersArmory is the staccato trigger necessary to lighten up the trigger pull weight or just replace the hammer spring?

@@erice4611 No it is not necessary, I bought it because it gave me longer trigger reach and pretravel and overtravel adjustment. Reducing trigger pull weight is primarily reduced by a combination of main spring and sear spring tuning. Depending on your desired trigger weight and action only one or the other may be needed.

The middle tang of the sear spring.

@EngineersArmory what's the fix to it ?

@@EngineersArmory thank you for the speedy reply btw

@IsaacGuerrero-j2k bend that middle tang forward more.

@@EngineersArmory thank you also I have a rock island kit and the safety selector switch isnt functional could it possibly be that it's a government parts kit and the frame is a commander frame

That's dope. Would love to hear how it turns out for you. I dont have a good welding machine, nor am I a good welder haha.

Did not test accuracy before and after as that wasnt important to me.

The dawson precision website. It's no longer listed on their site for online sale for some reason. It says you can call them to order though.

@ thank you

That's awesome!

I'm not trying to sell anything. I dont work for any of the companies who's parts I show. I dont make any money off these videos or my youtube channel in any way.

Appreciate it! Thanks for watching and commenting!

It was not on John Browning's original design and there have been 1911s made without it

I disagree. And that's fine.

@@EngineersArmory really Atlas deleted it I think it's ugly as hell I'm going to pin mine there's really no point for it you shouldn't drop safety until you're ready to fire in my opinion

@@X-ForceBro I leave em. They never bothered me. Thats fine if you like to get rid of them. The gun aint drop safe anyways without a firing pin safety block haha.

@@EngineersArmory agreed I would only use a 1911 as a range toy anyway I suppose, Hey have you ever thought about playing some kind of layout compound on the seer and hammer to track where and see if it's perfectly even just the thought I was having?

🤫I think my channel is small enough they dont pay attention. Although I have had one video removed before. Shush. Dont talk about it. I also try to fend it off with ample disclaimers.

Micro welding with a laser and re machining would be best. When I was doing R&D for a tech startup we got some micro welded nickel sleeves for embossing a microstructure. The weld was 125 microns wide and under a microscope looked like a roll of nickels. Truly beautiful.

@ some people have skills…I do not.

@@jeffreygoss8109 I can cut my way in and weld my way out of some heavy equipment with a wire feed. I wouldn't dare try to weld 1911 frame rails.

Haha you are going to be disappointed. Done with this project it wasnt fun.

I should drill some grease passages and add a grease zerk on the top of the slide. Keep her greased and tight!

@@EngineersArmorygood enough for my car’s suspension. 😂 just load it up until goop pops out the barrel. I love this channel.

Needs a pecker in the barrel👌🏼

@@EngineersArmory The pecker is the ultimate "fu@k you", LOL... I wish I live in US.

Glad you thought so!

I got the really fine square one from Brownell's. All the others I found on amazon.

Yeah I have the ability to the machine the rails as needed. The welding would be the problem for me too.

Unfortunately no. The one I used fit like shit but it works. The frame has a smaller than standard radius and different profile than most 1911s. I tried 3 different grip safeties and they all fit terribly.

@EngineersArmory i contacted SDS import regards to grip safety. But the one they sent out has the saftey above the trigger bow. Closest that fits ok is the grip safety for the prodigy still not a great fit to frame.

@brianshaw5796 ah gotcha. If the tab is above the trigger bow just a little that can be fit back down so it engages properly.

Thats a good idea. i didnt have any problems with the frame moving around once I modified my fixture. The tape stayed put.

Umm. I kinda just make videos as they relate to my current 1911 projects. I have some videos in a playlist of technical 1911 content on my channel that cover some of the more basic stuff. There are lots of good videos out there that go over the basics. The manuals I reference in this video can be found in free PDF form on the web, they are a great reference and contain the basics. I don't know that I will make a video about the basic theory and operation of the 1911.

@ I see, thank you very much! Will definitely check those out :D

Ah heating the frame makes sense. Does anyone make bare 2011 frames with oversized rails?

@ normally you get the slide oversized and fit to frame but you’d have to measure your frame to make sure the slide is bigger dimensionally seems like your gun is a bit out of spec but not sure if it’s all in one of the parts or both ?

@@EngineersArmory You can order anything from several frame suppliers (phone circus). The real issue is that aluminum frame ... I do not use them in my builds. Accu rails also have their own particular issues (time $ponge). Now if you want to build a carry gun that is not shot , that is a different issue. 2x bright = .5 long. Also a "Lip Gage" is critical ... used in the canning iindustry. I had two custom lip gages built for me ($$$), well worth it to me.