Can for a tutorial on how to polish my firearm, stayed for the academic lecture on friction. In all seriousness thanks for the info. Going to try to polish my 1st handgun and consequently my 1st 2011.
Great video! Most people will have trouble with "rocking" the file or stone, so that they won't have a square flat surface. Glad you cautioned them about it. A trick that I learned when making custom knives was to take a 1/8" or 3/32 brass rod and cut off a small section about 2" long, then cut a split in the end of it about 1/2" deep. Then you can insert and wrap wet/dry sand paper around the slit in the end of the rod, making a "flap wheel". Use it in your dremel or foredom tool to remove heavy coatings or deep scratches. I picked up my Mac 9 on Tuesday, but haven't had a chance to shoot it yet. Overall I am impressed with it. Tolerances are good with very little slop in the slide fit, barrel locks up good, and it tight at the muzzle. Trigger is a little heavy, I'll try to adjust to around 4# for a EDC gun. Also plan on replacing the springs and polishing everything up when I get home next month. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Solid purchase! I'm glad my videos were helpful in some way. The tisas is pretty much the best starting place (in my opinion) for practicing these techniques. A bit of polishing and cleaning up on those goes a long ways. Enjoy!
@@MyLonewolf25 looks solid to me! I'm excited to see reviews on it. Looks like a great option at a good price. I like fusion firearms. I buy a lot of their parts. Good quality for a good price.
Amazing video! I learned a lot and I can see I am not the only one enjoying these things. It makes me buy more and more guns, because I enjoy the process of understanding the mechanism and smoothing everything out.
Thanks for going into the details of why use x to do y instead of using z to do y. A lot of the really important nuances explained in this video I learned by making mistakes instead. Wish this video existed 5 years ago.
I wish this video existed 5 years ago too so I didnt screw so much stuff up when I was learning haha. That's why I made it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Woohoo! if you have experience with mechanical systems and some practice it comes pretty easy. Nice to have some confirmation from a non-professional hahahah. I hope maybe you picked up a few tidbits of new information or a new technique. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video! Much like the other 1911/2011 tutorials, I think this one will be good, evergreen content for the future. Also, holy shit, an hour and a half is a ton of time/effort put into this. I'm just thinking about the editing/rendering time, let alone the actual filming/planning. As always, love the video!
Much appreciated man! Yeah this one took a long time. Probably a week of evenings writing the script. Another week of evenings filming and doing the work. And a 3rd week of editing. I probably took apart 6 different guns 5 times each haha. I hope its helpful to a lot of people!
I feel like I'm watching myself work on all this stuff... But with good commentary! LoL I always wondered if I had a decent process but I'm thinking I'm doing ok. Thanks for the video
I wonder if there's any way to find the total friction value or some coefficient of a particular, single specimen gun. And then do the same check/s for the gun you polished and compare the two totals. Or is this pretty much an impossible task.
Thats an interesting idea. Clearly, i like to collect comparative data and measure whatever aspects of firearms I can. I do comparative testing on my pistols when i port a barrel. What you're describing would be very difficult to quantify. I think the easiest and most feasible way to get this done without some seriously expensive testing equipment would be to measure the force it takes to pull the slide to the rear of its travel. Pretty much everything we do when polishing a gun is to help the action operate/reciprocate more smoothly. There are other aspects of this work that improve trigger pull, reliability, and feeding of the cartridge. Use a force gauge to pull the slide to the rear of its travel before polishing, then after polishing (with the same recoil spring, main spring, amount of lubrication, etc.), pull the slide back again and measure the difference in force. Any reduction in force needed to pull the slide all the way to the rear would be a direct result of polishing work. I imagine the difference would not be much. Another way would be to measure slide velocity before and after. Less friction would result in higher slide velocity if ammo and all other variables were held constant. You could directly measure this by taking slow motion video of the slide cycling against a background with known length graduations. Then calculate velocity by how far the slide moves divided by the number of camera frames based on the frame rate of the footage captured. Easier than that is seeing how much further the empty casings fly. Less friction = higher slide velocity = the case rim hits the ejector harder and gets ejected further.
@@EngineersArmory Well, I guess it's a fairly useless thought experiment, except to someone who would be interested enough to go through the trouble of doing it. However, this friction test would have to have something that measures the force to move something across something else, with just those two items (no springs). The slide would be easy enough, I would think. But the fire group, I'd have no idea how you'd measure friction on the sear, disconnector, trigger, etc. And then when you have all that stuff figured out, add the springs to it? I don't know. I think it would be more trouble than it's worth.
@@BarbosaUral Haha likely. But I have gone to a lot of trouble to answer bizarre questions and glean useless information. Thats how science works a lot of the time. There is a lot of value in understanding the basics of friction force, the frictional coefficient, normal force etc. That may help you answer some of the questions you posed in your reply. Here is a nice video. It goes over the basics of friction. Then also shows 3 ways frictional coefficients are determined experimentally (and quite simply). polishing a component reduces the frictional coefficient. ruclips.net/video/rKUv8me-pKo/видео.html
@@EngineersArmory I have done everything you have done with my 1911's since the mid 90's. Except I used a wooden mallet and a wooden dowel to change the parameters of the slide. All done by feel. And then used jewelers rouge for "lapping" and polishing the rails. I have to try that lapping compound; it would be so much easier than jewelers rouge. I bought my first Dremel in the 90's specifically for gun work. I'm fairly intimate with the 1911 and fair to good all around with them. And I'll tell you that the sear spring (trigger pull) adjustment is my least favorite thing to do to them. Such a pain sometimes. Thanks for the video!
@@BarbosaUral You've been working on 1911s since I was a baby. I'm sure you have some serious skill! The sear spring adjustment is frustrating to me too. Its a bit... nebulous, as well as time consuming. If I may, I would recommend a watch of the video I posted recently about sear spring adjustment. I came up with a method that works very well for me and gives me repeatable results. Would be curious to hear your thoughts on the method vs the method you use. Cheers! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I finally started polishing the slide and frame rails last night. It feels much smoother. However, I was noticing that it wants to hang very slightly on the disconnector , not nearly as bad as it was before, but still noticeable. I started looking at some videos and came across something called the "Marvel Cut". I was thinking about doing it when I found a reply in a video that said that the disconnector actually drops down away from the slide while the trigger is depressed. Apparently this modification would only make the slide feel smoother when hand cycling the slide on the frame and not serve an actual purpose when the gun is fired. I think I'll stick to polishing the disconnector when I tear into the frame and slide a little farther.
I've heard the marvel cut is not recommended on 9mm or 38 slides becuase they have a narrower disco rail, the 45 disco rail is wider. Not sure. I change the chamfer on the bottom of the breach face to a radius and polish it. Along with polishing the disconnector tip, breaking the sharp edges, it makes it a lot smoother. The disconnector does stay down when the trigger is held to the rear during firing. Where the disconnector hanging up matters is dropping the slide on a full mag to chamber the first round. If it hangs up too bad it can cause problems. The adjustment of the middle leaf of the sear spring also affects disconnector action as it puts upward force on it. Seems like you're getting it all figured out!
@@EngineersArmory Thanks for the reply. Just pulled the slide, firing pin, and extractor. First time messing with the extractor and firing pin. I polished the hump in the center of the extractor and the hook. Also wanted to finish cleaning up the breech face and breaking the edges and polishing them a little more. Going to watch a few more video's on taking the frame/grip apart on the 2011. I want to work on the disconnector angles a little more and also the trigger pull. I haven't dug out my trigger scale, but this has got to be pushing 5.5-6# just guessing. I did check the disconnector with the trigger pulled and it remains just a few thousandth proud. Probably breaking the edges and tweaking the spring pressure will help. It's not bad, but noticeable. I also noticed that when the slide is cycled back with the hammer back that there is some engagement there. It probably pushed the hammer down 10-15 thousandths. Again probably nothing to be concerned with but didn't know if it would be part of "tuning" a custom 1911-2011. Should I worry about refinishing any of the exposed slide/frame internal areas that have been polished, or just keep them oiled. Thanks, Ken
Keep em oiled and you'll be good. Dont lower the tip of the disconnector at all when breaking edges or polishing, it can affect the safety of the trigger (whether it correctly "disconnects"). When the slide reciprocates it pushes the hammer down a but further than the fully cocked position. This is normal.
@@EngineersArmory I got the frame section dis-assembled and polished all the internals. Just lightly removing the cerakote mostly. Did a little tweaking on the spring and finally got it back together, LOL. I did a safety check and the grip safety isn't working, I found a YT video that said to push up on the beaver-tail while trying to pull the trigger. It worked then, so sounds like a simple adjustment of the spring for more tension on the grip safety. I need to add a little more trigger pull as well. It's set nicely for a range toy, but I wouldn't trust it for a carry gun. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and making these videos. Ken
17:00 How NOT to do it. You always want to use the largest motion so most work should be done in line with the flat surface. Using a stone back and forth like that will dish the stone then you have to learn and buy a flattening stone to resurface your honing stone.... Use the full length of the stone as much as possible. Not only do you cut faster because you have less buildup (same amount of removed material but spread over greater area) but your stone will stay flatter longer. You can also use diamond stones without the need for honing oil if desired. BTW, if the part is flat then sandpaper is excellent when taped to a fairly thick piece of glass. You can move the small part over a large area of sandpaper and finish it in no time. 24:00 is a good example. Masking tape on the visible sides of the hammer, a 6" square of 600 or 800 grit sand paper on glass and slide the part gently over the surface. You can work in multiple directions until you achieve a flat surface then switch to a higher grit for a final polish. You can pretty much double your grit (higher numbers = finer grit) between stages ie 300, 600, 1200-1500, 3000, 6000 by which time you're nearly at a mirror finish. Usually not necessary to go this polished for gun parts..though it looks cool on a knife blade. Oh, and always start with the most course grit you figure you'll need. In the video, I'd have switched the mainspring housing back to 300 or even 140 grit until it was flat, then proceeded up from there. You save time in the long run as well as your tools and consumables. Never use 2 different polishing compounds on the same buffer wheel. If you're trying to polish your are still using the 'old' courser grit now mixed with a finer grit and your results will be less than optimal. 54:00 Beware removing metal from trigger groups and sears. Some of these are simply case hardened which means the hard surface is very, very thin. You might smooth it out and it works great for 1K rounds...then the sear doesn't hold because its worn down from removing the case hardened surface. Do at your own risk. Learned the hard way.
That was kind of a weird demonstration on the back of a mainspring housing. I agree with what you say. The hump on the back of the mainspring housing made is so I couldn't go long ways. Longer strokes are better. Sandpaper stuck to glass is a good trick. A lot of gun parts or the surfaces I want to polish are an odd shape, and that method wouldnt work. Some surfaces and parts would work and thats a good method. Agree with the rest of you statements and they are some good points I should have clarified or mentioned. Im not so picky about polishing compound on my buffing wheels, if I were after a super fine finish then I would use a separate wheel for each grit. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge!
Great, great, video. Shows that working on a firearm doesn't have to be scary. And can actually be enjoyable, and fulfilling when done by oneself and saving $$. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I think I'll go ahead and get that Tisas now. RockOn.StayFree.
The rear sight is the one that came with the optic plate from the factory. It is .380" tall. The front is one I bought from Dawson precision. It is for a novak dovetail cut and it is .330" tall. I can confirm a novak dovetail cut is "close enough" for the front sight (it took a lot of fitting). Cannot confirm that with the rear sight but guess a Novak dovetail cut would be the place to start. Tisas uses an "unauthorized reproduction" of the Novak cut.
@@EngineersArmory I'm sure I will find it more satisfying to do myself, but the last thing I need is to get this deep into another hobby haha. Do you have a sense of how well the gun shoots after these upgrades as compared to a factory stoccato, platapus etc. ($2-3000 range gun)?
i made a comment at the start of the video when i saw the lapping compound asked a question about lapping slides, specifically 2011's thinking it was smart😂boy was I humbled 1:00:00 into this video. did you a favor and deleted that lmaoooo! great vid!
Oh dude I read your comment, didnt get a chance to respond before you deleted it. It was a legit question, and I was going to give you a legit answer without being a smart ass I promise!😆A little more information as it relates to the fit of a high end gun. When they machine they frame rails to the final tolerance to get that amazing fit with the slide. They do it in very stable fixturing, they have a very sharp tool. They choose spindle speed and travel speed that is appropriate for the tool, material and a finish pass. They take off very little material on this finish pass - maybe only .002-.005". That machining will likely leave a better finish than the polishing I show here, certainly a finish with equivalent roughness at the very least. Really fine machining can get down to around a 16 microinch finish. I don't know that what I showed here would give me any better than 32 microinch roughness. On a high end gun the fit and machining quality is so good, using lapping compound would make it worse.
Also, I wasn't going to fault you for asking the question when I answer it later in the video. not going to hold it against you if you don't sit thru every second of this fucking 1.5 hour video.🤣
Absolutely fantastic, however do you need your face covered, the reason I am asking is it would be more professional. I’ve seen other videos and you have a new subscriber
I cover my face for anonymity. I do not want to be identified. I do this for fun. I have a professional career and life outside this. I appreciate you watching and subscribing!
I figured that was the purpose but unfortunately you’re exposed in your spring video for a second. You scrubbed two out of three shooting scenes but one is still in need of some anonymity work my guy. I subbed because you’re the first gun guy that appears to have a rare high level of intelligence. Not saying that others are dumb, some are but most easily surpass any highly educated liberal, just saying I appreciate finally finding someone else who likes to fully understand things and has endless curiosity and if you’re like me at all, you likely think virtually every designer is a moron and very little in this world is well thought out and something happened at some point to stop us because we have had some wizards from time to time but most of them were from a time back when everyone knew what a woman was instead of only 65% of us.
@@user-nf7ui7dz1z I try my best** to remain anonymous. I am more careful about it now than I have been in the past. If you're talking about the recoil spring tuning video I am not seeing where I exposed myself. The clip at 26:00, my face is covered the whole time (maybe you're thinking of a different video or part?). I appreciate the kind words. I am a very curious person, especially when it comes to mechanical systems. Thats what keeps me exploring, learning, and tinkering. Thanks for watching, commenting, and subscribing!
Can for a tutorial on how to polish my firearm, stayed for the academic lecture on friction.
In all seriousness thanks for the info. Going to try to polish my 1st handgun and consequently my 1st 2011.
Hey quick question what compounds are you using? I've been looking for one that's different colors like the ones in the video but can't find them.
Great video! Most people will have trouble with "rocking" the file or stone, so that they won't have a square flat surface. Glad you cautioned them about it. A trick that I learned when making custom knives was to take a 1/8" or 3/32 brass rod and cut off a small section about 2" long, then cut a split in the end of it about 1/2" deep. Then you can insert and wrap wet/dry sand paper around the slit in the end of the rod, making a "flap wheel". Use it in your dremel or foredom tool to remove heavy coatings or deep scratches. I picked up my Mac 9 on Tuesday, but haven't had a chance to shoot it yet. Overall I am impressed with it. Tolerances are good with very little slop in the slide fit, barrel locks up good, and it tight at the muzzle. Trigger is a little heavy, I'll try to adjust to around 4# for a EDC gun. Also plan on replacing the springs and polishing everything up when I get home next month. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for sharing that tip. Good one for making a little flappy paddle polishing wheel! Sounds like you got a fun project ahead with the MAC9.
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You’re awesome brother. Great source of knowledge and no bs backed with facts and information 💯
I'm waiting on my first pistol, the tisas double stack, heavily influenced by the series you did on yours. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Solid purchase! I'm glad my videos were helpful in some way. The tisas is pretty much the best starting place (in my opinion) for practicing these techniques. A bit of polishing and cleaning up on those goes a long ways. Enjoy!
@@EngineersArmory thoghts on the fusion firearms XP PRO?
@@MyLonewolf25 looks solid to me! I'm excited to see reviews on it. Looks like a great option at a good price. I like fusion firearms. I buy a lot of their parts. Good quality for a good price.
Great video! Thanks......On the Prodigy...What trigger is that?
fooled ya! Thats a MAC9DS with a Prodigy grip module haha. The trigger is a Staccato trigger.
Amazing video! I learned a lot and I can see I am not the only one enjoying these things. It makes me buy more and more guns, because I enjoy the process of understanding the mechanism and smoothing everything out.
Thanks for going into the details of why use x to do y instead of using z to do y. A lot of the really important nuances explained in this video I learned by making mistakes instead. Wish this video existed 5 years ago.
I wish this video existed 5 years ago too so I didnt screw so much stuff up when I was learning haha. That's why I made it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
thanks you really made it easy to understand what your doing and why you did it
Super helpful! I was always doing this but mostly by intuition
Woohoo! if you have experience with mechanical systems and some practice it comes pretty easy. Nice to have some confirmation from a non-professional hahahah. I hope maybe you picked up a few tidbits of new information or a new technique. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video! Much like the other 1911/2011 tutorials, I think this one will be good, evergreen content for the future. Also, holy shit, an hour and a half is a ton of time/effort put into this. I'm just thinking about the editing/rendering time, let alone the actual filming/planning.
As always, love the video!
Much appreciated man! Yeah this one took a long time. Probably a week of evenings writing the script. Another week of evenings filming and doing the work. And a 3rd week of editing. I probably took apart 6 different guns 5 times each haha. I hope its helpful to a lot of people!
@@EngineersArmory I think it'll certainly help out a lot of folks!
Awesome video man, looks to me like you have a passion. thank you for taking the time to do this.
You're most welcome. I hope its helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I feel like I'm watching myself work on all this stuff... But with good commentary! LoL I always wondered if I had a decent process but I'm thinking I'm doing ok. Thanks for the video
Fantastic! Its nice to have that confirmation haha.
Just Cajunized my CZ P01, P07. Your info & polishing techniques helped a lot. Thanks, definitely subscribing.👍🏽
Hell yeah! Glad to hear it. Thanks for watching, commenting and subscribing.
I wonder if there's any way to find the total friction value or some coefficient of a particular, single specimen gun. And then do the same check/s for the gun you polished and compare the two totals. Or is this pretty much an impossible task.
Thats an interesting idea. Clearly, i like to collect comparative data and measure whatever aspects of firearms I can. I do comparative testing on my pistols when i port a barrel.
What you're describing would be very difficult to quantify. I think the easiest and most feasible way to get this done without some seriously expensive testing equipment would be to measure the force it takes to pull the slide to the rear of its travel. Pretty much everything we do when polishing a gun is to help the action operate/reciprocate more smoothly. There are other aspects of this work that improve trigger pull, reliability, and feeding of the cartridge.
Use a force gauge to pull the slide to the rear of its travel before polishing, then after polishing (with the same recoil spring, main spring, amount of lubrication, etc.), pull the slide back again and measure the difference in force. Any reduction in force needed to pull the slide all the way to the rear would be a direct result of polishing work. I imagine the difference would not be much.
Another way would be to measure slide velocity before and after. Less friction would result in higher slide velocity if ammo and all other variables were held constant. You could directly measure this by taking slow motion video of the slide cycling against a background with known length graduations. Then calculate velocity by how far the slide moves divided by the number of camera frames based on the frame rate of the footage captured.
Easier than that is seeing how much further the empty casings fly. Less friction = higher slide velocity = the case rim hits the ejector harder and gets ejected further.
@@EngineersArmory Well, I guess it's a fairly useless thought experiment, except to someone who would be interested enough to go through the trouble of doing it.
However, this friction test would have to have something that measures the force to move something across something else, with just those two items (no springs).
The slide would be easy enough, I would think. But the fire group, I'd have no idea how you'd measure friction on the sear, disconnector, trigger, etc. And then when you have all that stuff figured out, add the springs to it? I don't know. I think it would be more trouble than it's worth.
@@BarbosaUral Haha likely. But I have gone to a lot of trouble to answer bizarre questions and glean useless information. Thats how science works a lot of the time.
There is a lot of value in understanding the basics of friction force, the frictional coefficient, normal force etc. That may help you answer some of the questions you posed in your reply.
Here is a nice video. It goes over the basics of friction. Then also shows 3 ways frictional coefficients are determined experimentally (and quite simply). polishing a component reduces the frictional coefficient.
ruclips.net/video/rKUv8me-pKo/видео.html
@@EngineersArmory I have done everything you have done with my 1911's since the mid 90's. Except I used a wooden mallet and a wooden dowel to change the parameters of the slide. All done by feel. And then used jewelers rouge for "lapping" and polishing the rails. I have to try that lapping compound; it would be so much easier than jewelers rouge. I bought my first Dremel in the 90's specifically for gun work.
I'm fairly intimate with the 1911 and fair to good all around with them. And I'll tell you that the sear spring (trigger pull) adjustment is my least favorite thing to do to them. Such a pain sometimes.
Thanks for the video!
@@BarbosaUral You've been working on 1911s since I was a baby. I'm sure you have some serious skill! The sear spring adjustment is frustrating to me too. Its a bit... nebulous, as well as time consuming. If I may, I would recommend a watch of the video I posted recently about sear spring adjustment. I came up with a method that works very well for me and gives me repeatable results. Would be curious to hear your thoughts on the method vs the method you use.
Cheers! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Fantastic video hamma! 👏 👏 👏
I finally started polishing the slide and frame rails last night. It feels much smoother. However, I was noticing that it wants to hang very slightly on the disconnector , not nearly as bad as it was before, but still noticeable. I started looking at some videos and came across something called the "Marvel Cut". I was thinking about doing it when I found a reply in a video that said that the disconnector actually drops down away from the slide while the trigger is depressed. Apparently this modification would only make the slide feel smoother when hand cycling the slide on the frame and not serve an actual purpose when the gun is fired. I think I'll stick to polishing the disconnector when I tear into the frame and slide a little farther.
I've heard the marvel cut is not recommended on 9mm or 38 slides becuase they have a narrower disco rail, the 45 disco rail is wider. Not sure. I change the chamfer on the bottom of the breach face to a radius and polish it. Along with polishing the disconnector tip, breaking the sharp edges, it makes it a lot smoother. The disconnector does stay down when the trigger is held to the rear during firing. Where the disconnector hanging up matters is dropping the slide on a full mag to chamber the first round. If it hangs up too bad it can cause problems. The adjustment of the middle leaf of the sear spring also affects disconnector action as it puts upward force on it. Seems like you're getting it all figured out!
@@EngineersArmory Thanks for the reply. Just pulled the slide, firing pin, and extractor. First time messing with the extractor and firing pin. I polished the hump in the center of the extractor and the hook. Also wanted to finish cleaning up the breech face and breaking the edges and polishing them a little more. Going to watch a few more video's on taking the frame/grip apart on the 2011. I want to work on the disconnector angles a little more and also the trigger pull. I haven't dug out my trigger scale, but this has got to be pushing 5.5-6# just guessing. I did check the disconnector with the trigger pulled and it remains just a few thousandth proud. Probably breaking the edges and tweaking the spring pressure will help. It's not bad, but noticeable. I also noticed that when the slide is cycled back with the hammer back that there is some engagement there. It probably pushed the hammer down 10-15 thousandths. Again probably nothing to be concerned with but didn't know if it would be part of "tuning" a custom 1911-2011. Should I worry about refinishing any of the exposed slide/frame internal areas that have been polished, or just keep them oiled. Thanks, Ken
Keep em oiled and you'll be good. Dont lower the tip of the disconnector at all when breaking edges or polishing, it can affect the safety of the trigger (whether it correctly "disconnects").
When the slide reciprocates it pushes the hammer down a but further than the fully cocked position. This is normal.
@@EngineersArmory I got the frame section dis-assembled and polished all the internals. Just lightly removing the cerakote mostly. Did a little tweaking on the spring and finally got it back together, LOL. I did a safety check and the grip safety isn't working, I found a YT video that said to push up on the beaver-tail while trying to pull the trigger. It worked then, so sounds like a simple adjustment of the spring for more tension on the grip safety. I need to add a little more trigger pull as well. It's set nicely for a range toy, but I wouldn't trust it for a carry gun. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and making these videos. Ken
17:00 How NOT to do it. You always want to use the largest motion so most work should be done in line with the flat surface. Using a stone back and forth like that will dish the stone then you have to learn and buy a flattening stone to resurface your honing stone.... Use the full length of the stone as much as possible. Not only do you cut faster because you have less buildup (same amount of removed material but spread over greater area) but your stone will stay flatter longer. You can also use diamond stones without the need for honing oil if desired.
BTW, if the part is flat then sandpaper is excellent when taped to a fairly thick piece of glass. You can move the small part over a large area of sandpaper and finish it in no time. 24:00 is a good example. Masking tape on the visible sides of the hammer, a 6" square of 600 or 800 grit sand paper on glass and slide the part gently over the surface. You can work in multiple directions until you achieve a flat surface then switch to a higher grit for a final polish.
You can pretty much double your grit (higher numbers = finer grit) between stages ie 300, 600, 1200-1500, 3000, 6000 by which time you're nearly at a mirror finish. Usually not necessary to go this polished for gun parts..though it looks cool on a knife blade.
Oh, and always start with the most course grit you figure you'll need. In the video, I'd have switched the mainspring housing back to 300 or even 140 grit until it was flat, then proceeded up from there. You save time in the long run as well as your tools and consumables.
Never use 2 different polishing compounds on the same buffer wheel. If you're trying to polish your are still using the 'old' courser grit now mixed with a finer grit and your results will be less than optimal.
54:00 Beware removing metal from trigger groups and sears. Some of these are simply case hardened which means the hard surface is very, very thin. You might smooth it out and it works great for 1K rounds...then the sear doesn't hold because its worn down from removing the case hardened surface. Do at your own risk. Learned the hard way.
That was kind of a weird demonstration on the back of a mainspring housing. I agree with what you say. The hump on the back of the mainspring housing made is so I couldn't go long ways. Longer strokes are better.
Sandpaper stuck to glass is a good trick. A lot of gun parts or the surfaces I want to polish are an odd shape, and that method wouldnt work. Some surfaces and parts would work and thats a good method.
Agree with the rest of you statements and they are some good points I should have clarified or mentioned. Im not so picky about polishing compound on my buffing wheels, if I were after a super fine finish then I would use a separate wheel for each grit.
Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge!
@@EngineersArmory When you're old you've already made all the mistakes. It's a shame if everyone has to do the same.
Great, great, video. Shows that working on a firearm doesn't have to be scary. And can actually be enjoyable, and fulfilling when done by oneself and saving $$. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I think I'll go ahead and get that Tisas now.
RockOn.StayFree.
Great info, thank you
Thank you for this.
What size irons are those? My MAC is first gen with the non cowitness height sights and am trying to find accurate numbers for a cowitness
The rear sight is the one that came with the optic plate from the factory. It is .380" tall. The front is one I bought from Dawson precision. It is for a novak dovetail cut and it is .330" tall. I can confirm a novak dovetail cut is "close enough" for the front sight (it took a lot of fitting). Cannot confirm that with the rear sight but guess a Novak dovetail cut would be the place to start. Tisas uses an "unauthorized reproduction" of the Novak cut.
Awesome video. Would love to talk to you about doing all this work on my Tisas DS9 if you'd be willing
Glad you enjoyed the video. I only do this for fun and don't do paid work for others, sorry.
@@EngineersArmory I'm sure I will find it more satisfying to do myself, but the last thing I need is to get this deep into another hobby haha. Do you have a sense of how well the gun shoots after these upgrades as compared to a factory stoccato, platapus etc. ($2-3000 range gun)?
@@JBobAlbetross Not really sure. Have never shot a Staccato or Platypus. Wouldn't be appropriate for me to comment on that.
Where do you get the stones I ordered some but want to get one like you have with sharp corners
The fine, hard, ceramic stone I have with the sharp edges I got from Brownell's. They have a pretty good selection of stones.
Long live dltz!
The real OGs... From the days of old... Shall remember my name. WITNESS MEEEEEEEE!
New intro? Nice!
Thank you for the fiiiine entertainment! 👊
Great intro
Have you ever tried to tighten a slide to frame fit?
No I have not but Ive been curious. Its a pretty well defined procedure and tools are available. If I ever try it out ill make sure to make a video.
www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/handgun-tools/1911-rail-swaging-punches/?sku=080805000
i made a comment at the start of the video when i saw the lapping compound asked a question about lapping slides, specifically 2011's thinking it was smart😂boy was I humbled 1:00:00 into this video. did you a favor and deleted that lmaoooo! great vid!
Oh dude I read your comment, didnt get a chance to respond before you deleted it. It was a legit question, and I was going to give you a legit answer without being a smart ass I promise!😆A little more information as it relates to the fit of a high end gun. When they machine they frame rails to the final tolerance to get that amazing fit with the slide. They do it in very stable fixturing, they have a very sharp tool. They choose spindle speed and travel speed that is appropriate for the tool, material and a finish pass. They take off very little material on this finish pass - maybe only .002-.005". That machining will likely leave a better finish than the polishing I show here, certainly a finish with equivalent roughness at the very least. Really fine machining can get down to around a 16 microinch finish. I don't know that what I showed here would give me any better than 32 microinch roughness. On a high end gun the fit and machining quality is so good, using lapping compound would make it worse.
The Hayes custom gun videos are amazing. That dude is a phenomenal craftsman!
Also, I wasn't going to fault you for asking the question when I answer it later in the video. not going to hold it against you if you don't sit thru every second of this fucking 1.5 hour video.🤣
with glocks its more about component drag with triggers but itll never be "good"
Absolutely fantastic, however do you need your face covered, the reason I am asking is it would be more professional. I’ve seen other videos and you have a new subscriber
I cover my face for anonymity. I do not want to be identified. I do this for fun. I have a professional career and life outside this.
I appreciate you watching and subscribing!
@@EngineersArmory fair enough, all the best, keep the videos coming
I figured that was the purpose but unfortunately you’re exposed in your spring video for a second. You scrubbed two out of three shooting scenes but one is still in need of some anonymity work my guy. I subbed because you’re the first gun guy that appears to have a rare high level of intelligence. Not saying that others are dumb, some are but most easily surpass any highly educated liberal, just saying I appreciate finally finding someone else who likes to fully understand things and has endless curiosity and if you’re like me at all, you likely think virtually every designer is a moron and very little in this world is well thought out and something happened at some point to stop us because we have had some wizards from time to time but most of them were from a time back when everyone knew what a woman was instead of only 65% of us.
@@user-nf7ui7dz1z I try my best** to remain anonymous. I am more careful about it now than I have been in the past. If you're talking about the recoil spring tuning video I am not seeing where I exposed myself. The clip at 26:00, my face is covered the whole time (maybe you're thinking of a different video or part?).
I appreciate the kind words. I am a very curious person, especially when it comes to mechanical systems. Thats what keeps me exploring, learning, and tinkering. Thanks for watching, commenting, and subscribing!
Stop bitting your nails