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Hopefully not too much damage and it’ll go back together ok! Sounds like a few nice mods going on there you’ll get some good power from that I’m sure!

Still in bits 😄 Workshop build video out soon then engine work over the winter 👍

Didn’t download in the correct quality & was a bit too long. Take 2! 🎬

Nice one - always good to add a bit of extra security where possible! Gonna double check mine when back on the road

👍

Thank you for the kind words and PDF offer I may well be in contact! More on the way soon. Next video will be a Mercedes Estate review as I wanted to have a drive, then workshop build video then we’re back on the ST170 engine build over the winter. Yes that upper control arm had me stuck for weeks 😆

Wow that’s a lot of work sounds like you’re doing well with this! It’s always the way a 5 minute job ends up taking all day. You’ll have a fully sorted car there by the time you’re finished keep going 👍

Can’t remember if I flushed the complete system - probably not needed unless it’s really badly contaminated or it’s not been done for a couple of years or so. Just used the metal gasket on this one no sealant. Best to check in a Haynes to be doubly sure though 👍

Yep still restoring it! More content coming soon. Currently completing a workshop build to allow engine work to be done over the winter so complete engine refurbishment on the way. More progress on Instagram st170_Restoration 👍

Haha thanks!

Will do. Thanks for watching! 👍

I had the head off recently and took the valves out - all seemed ok so it’s still a bit of a mystery! I’m thinking the most likely cause was putting in premium fuel and not being able to run it for a few hundred miles to calibrate the engine management. Gonna have fingers crossed on the restart 😅

Hi thanks for watching! Yep it’s st170_restoration 👍

@@st170restoration followed man @robscarlife

Thanks! 👍

Hi the full listing for it reads as follows - 1N5404 3A 400V Rectifier Diode. As of yet still untested so watch this space! 👍

Yep the one on the very top is a banjo pipe for the oil supply. From memory I undid it with a socket or it may have been with a spanner - either way it seemed to come off ok on this one. For the coolant pipe spring clamps you may need a set of hose clamp pliers if regular pliers are slipping off 👍

HAL 9000 Basixx 👍

Thanks! More on the way this summer 👍

Hi this one is called the A/C quick disconnect tool I got it new from eBay for about £6. Came as a 7 piece set! So much easier than struggling the lines off with half a hose clip like I did last time 😅

@@st170restoration Thank you very much, I appreciate the info.🙏🙏🙏

Hi no worries! Yep you could get a complete xenon headlight unit from another mk1 st and it would fit just fine. The problem you’d have though is you’d need to have it connected to headlight levellers otherwise you may have issues with dazzle and passing the MOT. There’s a leveller on the front suspension wishbone and rear subframe - if the car came standard with halogen headlights these wouldn’t be fitted. Also they’d need the electrical connection to the headlights which may not be there if xenon’s weren’t original equipment. Had a chat to a guy a while ago who was planning the same thing but decided otherwise as it was extremely fiddly and the halogen lights on the car are very good

Thanks for your reply! My car is completely standard, none xenon headlights as standard, I think I'll leave it based on your reply haha!! I'm definitely no expert, having said that the reason I wanted to change them other than the fact that they look much better is my headlights have moisture in them and don't look good at the minute, do you have any tips for a fix in that regard? Maybe I need new gaskets? These are 20 years old after all! The car itself is mint, 3 door, no rust and only 65k and in imperial blue! I wish I had your skillset to really sort this out haha!

@@dadada1999 nice that sounds a good one! I’ve not opened up those headlights before so don’t know if it’s a good idea or not but I’d go with replacing the whole light unit as there are loads around at the moment 👍

Cheers mate, good advice!

It’s all bolted together to the other arms and the shock absorber. It’ll drop down a bit more than usual when it’s in the air but won’t pop out fully unless the bolt near the wheel is disconnected. I found it a right pain to do!

Hi sills are still on the to do list. I’m gonna get the lot done both inners and outers once it’s mobile enough to be transported to a specialist for the work. I’m guessing the labour costs for that will vary greatly but the main thing is it’s gotta be a tidy job. I’m thinking a classic car specialist but undecided at the moment. Are yours rusted right through?

@st170restoration I'd take it to a classic car specialist mate as they're more clued up in extensive body work then a normal garage would be and their work would most likely be better quality. Mines scaring me if I'm honest its not had a mot since 2015 and the sills gave rotted out on both sides as well as the inners lol

@st170restoration just had a word with a mate of mine sills are a costly job if your inner sills are more or less ok id just put some primer on them as sills alone can come in at 500 a side or possibly more depending where you take it to

@@user-lx4zl3cx2w wow that’d soon rack up if doing all of them! I think the inner on the near side of mine will need doing but haven’t looked at the o/s properly yet. It’s one of those things where it may be a false economy to leave the inners but it depends on how high the bill is getting as always 😅

@st170restoration it can be costly mate but I think if you do most of the prep work yourself it should be miles cheaper as you'll only be paying for the labour fees on having them fabricated. I'll drop you a message on Instagram mate so you know what you might expect when it comes to them mines probably one of the worst on the net 😖😅

Hi not sure. The ones here in the UK should have 171 or 172 bhp if it’s running properly. If it’s a bit down on power it may have a minor fault with the IMRC unit or something?

Thanks!

Should be mid spring - been crazy here this winter! 😄 Full dismantling of the engine (again) and a full rebuild including bearings. Parts are being built up here at the moment so nearly good to go 🎥

Hi i got one from the Ford dealer in the end - had a bit of a job finding one and they had to order it from Germany if I remember correctly. It was silly money for a tensioner at nearly £160. There is a Dayco kit that people use that is apparently the same but I didn’t know enough about it at the time. If the Ford one is unavailable that’s the way I’d go 👍

Absolutely. I’d take the complete unit out and put it directly onto an engine stand for all of the tear down next time. The original intention was a light refurb only..

oh ok light refurb grows arms and legs. Just stumbled across your channel, great content

@@cowsarsc haha that’s exactly it! Thanks 👍

Hi I think these are only found in the Focus ST170 as far as I know. Other Ford models have leather Recaros however I’m unsure if they are interchangeable between different models or newer Focus models though

It’s strange sometimes you’ll see none for sale for a year or so then suddenly they’ll be several sets available all at the same time! Hopefully a nice set will turn up!

Hi - not sure. Did it have a tendency to do that before the switch completely failed? Only things I can think of are perhaps slack in the gear change cables or other wear. Or maybe switch not tight enough in the box? Let me know if you find out 👍

Hi yes I’d say its most likely to be the oil cooler. It’s the cheapest option to try first and see if it cures it. Drain and replace the coolant too and give the bottle a clean out as best you can - you’ll soon see if it’s an ongoing issue. If it’s a head gasket problem it’ll show other symptoms too such as a mayonnaise type build up on the oil filler cap and general odd goings on so if it’s generally running ok hopefully you’ll be lucky 👍

Hi sorry for the late reply! The manual I use is just the standard Haynes ones for the MK1 Focus. It covers 90% of stuff with the exception of ST170 specific bits such as the IMRC unit, getrag gearbox, variable valve timing components and a few other tuning company / SVT developed goodies.

Hi Haynes doesn’t say for the ST170 wheels but the standard Focus petrol road wheel nuts are listed as 85 Nm

Thanks! The general position seems about the same but they are firmer to sit in than the blue ones. I recon they sit at roughly the same height as the old ones from the quick try I’ve had so far. One thing I did notice though is how much heavier they are! It’s really quite a difference!

@@st170restoration honestly they look heavy :D I'm looking for ways to make the seat go lower that the lowest position they go, do you know some tricks or mods that don't involve aftermarket seats?

Haha nice one!! Not sure what Sreten would make of old Fords but I’m certainly glued to the goings on with his BMWs. Legendary channel 🫡 Wow that’s gonna be great! Will you keep the engine standard do you think?

@@st170restoration We stripped the engine down tonight and it has some bad scoring on the last cam journal on each cam (furthest from the pulleys) so I may have to replace the head. We'll be talking to the machine shop in the next day or two to see if they can do anything. The Zetec ran Jenveys so I'll probably use those again. I'll need to get an ecu that can handle the VVT though.

I haven’t managed to track down a new set yet - think I’ll go direct to Ford and see what they have. From what I remember it’s a common seal to most of the Ford stuff so hopefully will be lucky! I’m gonna repaint the back again due to the finish not being good enough so will be taking all the bits off again and looking for seals. Let me know if you find any! 👍

Glad it’s some help! Thanks for watching 👍

well i have a new problem = after renewing all nipples on all calipers the brake dont bleed ! ie its just a lump of fluid big air gap then just tops doesn't flow in to spill tray/bottle - hope to god its not my blimmin servo lol everything else is new apart from lines under car no leaks visible#!

Thanks! I got it a few years ago so no link unfortunately. It was new from eBay and under £40 if I remember correctly. Makes doing brakes and clutches so much easier highly recommended!

Hi lifter bucket is 25mm tall and 30mm across. Thanks for watching 👍

I was looking for a set ever since I got the car but they were always too far away and in the wrong condition. These popped up in the next town only 20 mins from my house! Lack of space at the moment means they’ve gotta go temporarily in the car then come out again as the work progresses. Bit of extra hassle but they suit the car well.