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@@felipe2fp Salomon Huck Knife and Capita Aeronaut would both be awesome for what you’re describing! Main difference being that the Huck Knife is a true twin and the Aeronaut is set back slightly making it directional. If you tend to ride switch a fair amount, Huck Knife will be perfect, Aeronaut will have the same pop and stability in landings but be more versatile in the sense that it can lay down some carves or jump into trees/pow easily.

Frontier is a solid option but Aviator 2.0 will give you more power when you need it without feeling too cumbersome.

@@TheSkiMonster Thanks. Oddly enough I began looking at reviews of that. Also dynamo and Gnu Antigravity. Need 153 or under. My 156 One Mag was too long and now it lost a lot of pop..lol.

In your fl3x boots does it feel like pressure , shin splints or a little bit of both?

@@TheSkiMonster Shooting pain during evenings and nights. Nothing visible marks on feet or shins. Worst pain and pressure point is where the upper part liner material changes and have seam, near the place where tongue starts. I have tried tongue liner version as well but pressure area just spread out more. At least on full tilts

@@EthanPulkkinen hurt to walk and basically raise your toes off the ground?

@@TheSkiMonster Doesn't hurt as long as nothing is touching shins

@@EthanPulkkinen sorry for all these questions but this how a boot fit would go. Is the boot loose around your leg and calf?

Have as many pairs as you want, there are no rules

Race boots are for racing, there are also race inspired boots and then commercial boots. Unless your daily driver is FIS SL/GS ski you don’t need to be or really want to be in a race boot, like I mentioned in video they feel dead when not being pushed, they need to rev high if you will. Not way wrong most people aren’t in FIS level skis therefore don’t need race boots. What boots and skis do you have?

@@TheSkiMonster So define a race boot. Head calls the Raptor 98mm boot a race boot. Is it?

@@louisrosenfeld1203 Raptors WCR 1-6 = race boots Raptor WCR 140-90 = race inspired This applies to all brands I can think of except Atomic which uses flex index for all boots. Basically if the boot uses flex codes it’s Race, if it looks like a race boot and uses flex index it’s race inspired - except for atomic which would say CS after flex index #

@@TheSkiMonster So I'll ask again are 98mm boots like the Head Raptor, Tecnica Mach1 LV, Dalbello Scorpion race boots? The companies all call them race boots.

@@TheSkiMonster WCRs are not 98mm boots.

Rustler would be more playful than Ripstick 96 black. Serpo is going to be better on groomers than all 3.

Yes, video I did on that here -> ruclips.net/video/AfBZdIajr8o/видео.htmlsi=a4ths2uslNjuVcyN

I do apreciatte . It explains a lot. In order to do things right, I would like to ask you if I can visit you or the team , any place you are based on. My idea is to buy there my new Boots with the proper gadgets, whatever those are. I ski at the Austrian Alps Crud sometimes and this year was not quite was I was expecting..due to all kinds of issues with my feet..being uncomfortable..just couldn't ski. I need some guide...if possible.. Thank you for the reply.

@@4kflyhigh976 Happy to help. We are based in Boston at 60 Canal Street just 5 minutes from Logan airport. We are open all year, ski boot section is best September through January. We are open by appointment only theskimonster.com/appointments

The Sleepwalker will be significantly softer flexing. We’ve found that the regular Huck Knife has a great balance of pop without feeling too stiff. Huck Knife Pro definitely stiffens up a bit so if this will be a park board that you’re using on both rails and jumps I would lean towards the Sleepwalker or regular Huck Knife.

@@TheSkiMonster thank you I think I've decided on the huck knife

We do make money on footbeds, no doubt about that. If it was a custom footbed all 3 times, and let's pretend it was built well and the boots are the right boots and had whatever necessary work done. It's likely that the footbeds are too rigid for your feet. That is common for skiers that can't keep them on very long, more common however that they weren't built well (heel to narrow, arch to high, metatarsal arch shouldn't be there, should be flat) Any idea what footbeds you had?

@@TheSkiMonster I have no issue with money being made as long as the product or service is good. I believe I had Sidas footbeds. I recall having to stand on them on a machine of some sort.

@@inquistive when you felt like you needed to take them boots off and get the beds out, what hurt, anything in particular?

@@TheSkiMonsterIt just felt like my whole foot was going numb and had no circulation.

@@inquistive there is a superficial nerve called the posterior tibial nerve that comes around the medial maleoulus near the achilles. It branches into a few different nerves that feeds the bottom of the foot and could be subject to irritation by a pinched heel cup.

The Photon Step On boots tends to be the best balance of support and responsiveness while still having enough give for slower speeds. The Ruler would be a step down in stiffness but loses the ankle strap that helps with heel hold. Your best bet for bindings will be either the standard re:flex binding or the genesis, both right around a medium flex with the genesis having just a little for forgiveness behind your foot.

Glad it helped! Come see us in Boston if you are local.

yes and in relation to the older model, it would be a smidge to the right. And if we added in New anomaly would be to the right of Bonafide and M7 to the right of M6.

@kurttappe, if your screw is maxed out it is very likely that you need your bindings remounted. A qualified shop will remove the bindings and drill new holes while plugging the old holes in the process. If you are local to our Boston store, we do this service by appointment in about 25 minutes. The cost is $60.

Depends on your priorities, where do you want a ski to perform best? What do you have now what do you like or not like about them?

@@TheSkiMonster I have the 2021 Rusler 9 but I was thinking of sampling with atomic bent 100, or doesn't it make much of a difference?

@@user-fi8bc6hn3i the current Bent 100 will be easier to toss around than your year rustler 9. The 2025 Bent 100 is even more playful. If you like your ski you’ll like the bent it’ll just feel slightly more nervous on firmer snow.

Ranger 96

It is not the magic bullet so many claim that it is. More here -> ruclips.net/video/-qMSe-qcGSw/видео.htmlsi=zVy9eNz7qNGAO_nV

160 is totally in your range. Weight and priorities on the mountain are a factor as well - if you’re on the heavier/stronger side for your height or are looking for extra stability and speed, the 160 will be great!

@@TheSkiMonster would you say going on a bigger board for this model will make it lose her playful job ? Thank you :)

@@quentinbdt2724 Going bigger will add some extra work in terms of maneuvering the board. If you want a quick nimble feel, the 157 will be to best bet.

@@TheSkiMonster I had the 156W and had some stability issues with it. Are you sure 1cm bigger would make the difference ? Or maybe I should find a similar board with 158/159 size ? I don’t know what to do.

@@quentinbdt2724 Go for the 160, that is still going to be plenty maneuverable but if you’ve had stability issues in the past the extra length will help. The other option would be to look at something like the Jones Aviator 2.0 in a 158, slightly longer than what you were riding last but also stiffer which will add some stability.

What do you think the job of a ski boot is? And how would a softer boot help?

Yes, 100%

With a pivot its hard to say 100% if this is going to work without a remount. If the posting says 305-320, I am guessing they mounted the skis to ~313mm. If so, there is a good chance the 318mm will fit in there without a re-mount.

Do you have issues initiating a turn on those experience 78's?

​@TheSkiMonster sometimes... I feel like they hold me back in deeper snow or choppy ungroomed trail. I also feel unstable going faster or down steeper slopes but that may be just my inexperience or poor form. I am basically teaching myself

@@EquineLove getting some more waist width and a stronger construction will help with a lot of those issues. Ranger 96 is a great option and you will feel improvement in those areas, pretty night and day honestly

They run pretty true to size. If you send an email to support@theskimonster.com we can give you more detailed help.

Yes. For most noticeable difference you would be swapping out the cuff softer or stiffer, that is really the only way to make the boot stiffer. The bolt being added in back just makes the boot feel more direct. It doesn’t do all that marketing says.

The short answer is just do your best by hand on 3D contour bases. Get the flat parts flat and then grind the non flat parts by hand. Jones recommends a rolling technique over the belt and they recommend waxing everything as well. Wax gets drawn out of the base faster when snow is colder or manmade. Wax could be gone in half a day to three days depending. When in doubt wax more you can’t overwax. If things are really fuzzy and slow(aka base burn) then yes you want a grind. Wax can hide it until your next grind, maybe every 8-12 days getting a grind depending on snow quality.

Hopefully this video reaches some of those folks

Not every ski goes in the machine and gets the same amount of passes and with the same amount of pressure applied to the skis - the tech assesses what round 1 will be (airing on less passes to not grind away unnecessary material). Wider skis warp more and take more passes to be ground to flat, basically narrower skis could take more tunes because each tune requires less passes to get the skis flat. This is honestly what makes tuning snowboards so challenging because they are so wide. Should also note just because a ski is new doesn’t mean it’s flat out of the wrap. This is why brands can be adamant about skis being tuned before a ski magazine test. Long story short it depends. Skis are made of wood and we’re bending them, tipping them on edge. The harder it’s skied the faster it can come out of flat. A ski base is 1.6 - 2 mm thick. Average dressing depth of a stone is .03 - .05 mm. It’s not necessarily taking away .03 mm on each pass.

You’re good especially in 99 vs 100, new 99’s ski short. You’re going to love them

Correct, the Passport does have taper. The Antidote on the right in the video is a directional twin board - no taper from tip to tail but with a slightly setback stance.

Go with the 160! If you’re just cruising that will be plenty stable without feeling cumbersome. Awesome board choices!