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I thought about doing a light layer of spray foam and pressing 1/2 rigid foam against it while it’s fresh to essentially make a 100% moisture seal, is this smart or foolishness? 😂

I don't think you know what cheap or affordable means 👎

I blown my own insulation, didn't have to get any ribs removed either 😉

In the example with an unvented roof with hybrid (C.I. and batt) insulation, how would you detail the attachment of solar panels over say 6" of EPS foam?

What about in a sauna with rock wool insulation is foil ok?

Would love to see how this compares to ICF in cost and your opinion on the pros and cons of rach system.

this is such a good video

Fantastic videos!, thank you, from UK

In the xps + spray foam setup for older homes (1927, PNW). If you can't do the exterior air sealing, do you still recommend air sealing the mudsill with caulking or tape? Or will that cause issues with condensing under the mudsill?

Slow down a little bit.

It seems to me that there is huge risk of failure absent perfection in the execution of the wall system. You have to weigh that risk against the cost (and lower efficiency) of something like a ZIP system and figure out if failure of that super insulated wall is something you're willing to incur the cost when it comes to abatement and rebuild. I love the idea, I do not love the risk and would not be willing to incur the risk on my home.

Instead of reconciling the fact that water can permeate your masonry wall. Why wouldn't it make more sense to waterproof the exterior of the wall. If today's regular concrete is in contact with water AKA moisture constantly, it will weaken. No offense, but this is a new way of doing things that have not been tested and seem like way Overkill. It seems like something an engineer who doesn't actually work in the field would use as an overcomplicated solution.

What software are you using?

How applicable is the exterior drainage detail to crawlspace stem wall foundations?

Great video! Didn't see anything about filling cinder block with sand though. Which is what lead me here. Did I miss it?

@0:06 “House wrap is a weather resistant barrier or water resistant barrier if you’re in Canada” Come again? 🤨 Is that because “weather” doesn’t create actual water? Or “weather” doesn’t exist in Canada?🤔 Your videos are extremely informative and well put together. But, that statement, only six seconds into the video, has got to be one of the dumbest things I’ve heard in awhile.

It’s important to realize that the approach for hot-dry climates is very different. In particular, an impermeable moisture barrier is counterproductive. Most videos and books are discussing concepts for cold-wet or hot-wet climates.

I have an existing garage that will be converted to a dwelling. Though I'm not a fan, the existing walls have spray foam. I would rather not replace the existing walls, is there a way to prevent the off-gassing if we were to keep this framing and interior spray foaming? (Located in southern Ontario)

Am I making a future mistake? I am in a newly finished house as of last month, eager to start on finishing the basement. There is a layer of insulation already attached to the walls that looks like yellow fiberglass and is held against the wall with some white netting material and concrete nails top bottom and middle every so often. I want to take this down and stuff it in the joists for ceiling insulation and replace it with pink rigid foam or spray foam insulation. Or rigid + rockwool. Will this be a sound strategy or a headache down the line?

Interesting, so vapour barrier warm side in cold climates like Canada, what about wet climates loke Ireland / UK, wouldnt have the same deep freeze as Canada?

What do you recommend for basment insulation in the Canadian prairies. We have 80 degree summers with high humidity. (Although the house is air conditioned) but winter is dry and typically well well below freezing. Years ago we told to put a loose fitting poly layer on the foundation wall to prevent moisture wicking into the insulation. Then frame and insulate wall with vapor barrier on warm side. So the question is because of the wild swings in temp and humidity.. bewteen summer and winter is it better to insulate with a foam board on the concrete wall and insulate the stud space but eliminate the vapor barrier on the warm side. Or stay with tradition and off set studs about an inch from foundation insulate with fiberglass or mineral wool and vapor barrier on warm side.

All of this is fantastic information with the exception of soft brick walls, which are common in some parts of New England. Many times vapor sealing below grade will cause the bricks to disintegrate.

Unfortunately, adding layers of dimple mat, insulation, and a subfloor over your slab rarely works unless you’re re doing your staircase and if you’ve got a split level like me, you can’t do it anyway because the landing has the front door sitting on it. Also it’s a walkout basement so the floor would end up well above the exterior door.

Excellent presentation.

How do you feel about putting the smart vapor barrier (like Intello Plus) over the dimple layer on the basement wall? I find this easier to tape and seal the air while making sure nothing punctures it. Then followed by foam board, the stud wall with wood fiber insulation and sheet rock.

I knew he was going to try and sell something,

Really useful. Any thoughts on borate gel injection products (like Nisus Jecta) vs solid borate rods? I've tried the former but am a bit skeptical about longevity given how runny the gel is.

Talked about gravel ballast and concrete pavers, but what about green/live roofs?

This channel and your website have become essential viewing/reading in the context of my century home renovation-addition-updating project. The amount of information you provide is invaluable, both from a DIY or hiring contractor perspective. I’ve seen a bunch of basements remodelled or retrofit in a haphazard way only for mold and moisture to become an issue 3 years later and the whole thing have to be redone (also wrong). Thanks very much!

Do you recommend using r-tech eps board with a polymeric facer on both sides for a poured concrete basement wall? @ 2" it cost half the price of xps foam boards.

*A Design Guide To Dry & Comfortable Basements eBook* : asiri-designs.com/shop/ols/products/basement-design-guide

Wow. Your basement videos have answered all my questions. Thanks!

4:03 why wouldn’t a polyethylene vapour barrier be suitable in this case, since I assume you wouldn’t expect any drying to the exterior.

What do you use to seal off rigid foam board at the floor level (concrete slab) and at the top of the foam board as tape may not be best . Would spray foam or silicone work?

Another great video!

I already have a dimpled drainage mat installed directly against my concrete walls on the inside, running into a french drain to my sump- can I glue rigid foam insulation directly over top of the mat?

I recommend expanding on the subject of proper residential basement retrofitting, specifically focusing on effective waterproofing techniques for unfinished concrete floors and walls. Creating a series of instructional videos could be highly beneficial in addressing common challenges and misconceptions related to this essential aspect of home improvement. Consider covering topics such as: 1. **Moisture Management**: Discuss the importance of assessing moisture levels in the basement and the role of vapor barriers in preventing water infiltration. 2. **Surface Preparation**: Provide guidance on cleaning and prepping concrete surfaces before applying waterproofing products, including any necessary repairs or treatments. 3. **Waterproofing Methods**: Explore various waterproofing methods, such as liquid membranes, sealants, and drainage solutions, highlighting the pros and cons of each. 4. **Finishing Materials**: Discuss appropriate finishing materials that can withstand potential moisture issues, including options for flooring, wall coverings, and insulation. 5. **Common Misconceptions**: Address frequent misunderstandings, such as the effectiveness of DIY waterproofing solutions versus professional-grade options. By tackling these areas, you can create comprehensive content that not only informs but also empowers homeowners to make educated decisions regarding their basement projects.

nice!

this is so much good info! i wish i wasn't fucking stupid and could understand all that you're saying right now

Can this strategy be applied to a main floor? I have a heritage home built in the 1890s. Brick exterior, black tar paper, studs, wood chips and then lateral boards. If I remove the lateral boards, most of the tar paper is damaged and I can see the bricks. 1. How do I insulate this wall assembly? 2X4 2. I am guessing the lateral walls are structural because there’s is no ply wood. 3. If I remove the nailed lateral walls and insulate, will plywood suffice on the interior? Thanks for posting and happy Saturday.

Good way to start a saturday

Also it's not just expensive it's more square feet than a vented attic so it is less efficient

Joe Lstiburek would say you need a vented roof over your conditioned roof to prevent ice damming.

What does this look like on a roof? 1/16" is fine when water wants to run straight down.... What about on a 4 or 5 12 roof? At some point that gap lets air in and your insulation is ineffective.

So I’m curious on the exterior you’re not looking at products like Zip wall or anything like that or is that not shown here cause it’s more expensive than plywood? edit: OK, I just finished washing the video and got my answer. I guess ha ha ha ha Great stuff here thanks

This clown is full on nonsense. Bye.

@ASIRIDesigns - could you use a Zip assembly with 1" of closed cell spray foam on the interior side of the sheathing to avoid mold/rot issues (or potentially Zip R without the need for spray foam)? This 1" of closed cell would act as a vapor/air barrier and not allow moisture to condense on the backside of the sheathing, and would be installed prior to the cellulose dense pack...or would this create other unforeseen issues if you were in say a zone 4 climate?

I am in Russia, the large apartment buildings usually have a type of external mineral batts, but they render the batts directly, without an air gap, without any eaves. Is this problemantic or do they just rely on it drying out in summer?

Don't you have cellulose or wood fiber insulation in the US? It's a common solution for poorly insulated wooden houses here in Norway, either blown into cavities or as sheets. It requires a vapour barrier that's somewhat diffusion open on the inside, and an air/moisture barrier on the outside that's more diffusion open, often fiberboard sheathing, which also requires an air gap behind the cladding. I would never ever insulate with foam or anything that doesn't transport moisture horizontally, as wood/cellulose does. Wood/cellulose is much more forgiving, whereas artificial materials require a perfect installation and no punctures or you will get mold and rot. From an environmental perspective, it's also much better than plastic or glass based insulation, being made from waste products. As for insulation specs, it's better at heat buffering, retaining heat absorbed during the day and slowly releasing it back during the night. There's less sharp rise/fall of temperatures indoors. Unintuitively, it's also more fire proof (thanks to borax additives). I think it's just a superior insulation material! For old houses especially.

Uh oh, someone used 'the "r" word'!