Love the videos! Have a possible Q/A subject: how would you approach wall and roof insulation/construction for tiny house on wheels (THOW)? Most use closed cell spray foam and metal siding/roof due to the high R per inch and added rigidity the foam provides, but thermal bridging is almost never addressed. Interested to hear your thoughts when there's priority on minimizing thickness due to building width/height restrictions.
The correct solution is at @3:03 , Single layer roofs is a disaster waiting to happen. Second layer can be Steel, Aluminium, clay tiles, concrete tiles, but the air gap underneath them is a must in any climate that has snow in the winter.
Great info! I just did a metal roof with full peal and stick with venting instead of mechanical fastened synthetic underlayment for the reasons you mentioned in the video. Glad to get some reassurance as this was my first roof done this way. Again, great video as always, packed full of useful and CORRECT info!
@@LincolnLog Had three different brands from past projects and friends projects. Just go to your local lumber lumber yard and ask for peel and stick ice and water for metal roofs. What they have in stock is the brand for you.
I'm thinking about building a house with exposed beams and solid decking. This would be an off grid property in Northern Idaho, so robustness against wildfires is an important consideration. Right now, I'm thinking of placing 1" RockWool Comfortboard around the perimeter of the roof and as the top surface upon which which the battens would be place, with the core of the insulation being PolyIso, for its light weight and high R value. I'm thinking that it would make sense to place a highly reflective radiant barrier, between the first set of battens and the second. This would allow air to circulate directly above the insulation for drying, and would provide an air gap to make the radiant barrier underneath the metal roofing effective. The radiant barrier would also serve as a second level of bulk water protection. Since this is a DYI project, I'm assuming that I can baby the installation so that I don't damage the foil too much. Is there any issues that I'm missing?
Can you do a video on how high heat, self-adhered roofing underlayment performs during a wildfire event? Are some brands better than others? Also, do you recommend covering the entire roof deck with a high heat underlayment if your sheathing is the Huber ZIP system? I know Huber now has an underlayment that you can add on top of their ZIP sheathing but that is probably meant more for additional protection from water penetration during a storm than for fire. Do you see any problems with using a high heat wildfire underlayment under a metal roof while using the ZIP sheathing system?
Was wondering if you could do a more extensive video on interior vapour retarders such as intello and siga, I watched the short one and was left with some questions like are there situations where it’s less effective and how effective they truly are in comparison to exterior air barrier and exterior insulation, thanks for all the content
We do use. an HT layer with metal roofs, but I’ve worried that with closed cell insulation you could trap moisture in the sheathing. In our climate zone we don’t have freezing, but I like it better when we can put exterior insulation on the roof.
What is the benefit of an air control layer on the outside of the roof when the interior needs to be either vented already? it’s venting under that air control layer anyway? Same if we have the overroof assembly from Joe Lstiburek? I get the benefit of not having bulk water sit on the sheathing, but this won’t provide any increased air tightness?
@@FreekHoekstra I should have been more clear, it CAN serve as an air control layer in some assemblies, such as in a conditioned roof, not that it is the air control layer, especially not for vented roofs.
For an unvented assembly in climate zone 6a with exterior rigid insulation and metal cladding, where does an entangled mesh get specified and why? I've seen you mention this on your other videos.
@@ivan.bucher Good question, the entangled mesh is used to provide an air gap and drainage gap between certain roof coverings and the underlayment, such as for metal roofs or cedar shake roofs. But entangled mesh products are limited to around a maximum of 3/4" in depth, so ideally I would want a large gap for a vented over roof (about 2 inches+)
@@ivan.bucher It really depends, you want to avoid them in humid climates, but they were quite well in dry climates if they are designed properly. I have some videos that cover the benefits of both vented and unvented assemblies, and how to make each system work. There are three main reasons why you may want to use an unvented conditioned roof instead, and that's either you're building in a high wind speed zone/hurricane prone area, a region that is at a high risk of wildfire, or if you have a flat roof assembly.
Why is there humid air in a conditioned space? Seems like the problem isn't that you've brought the entire attic into the conditioned envelope but that your not actually conditioning the space.
You talk WAAAY too fast. Makes me think you really don't want to do the video so you just rush through to finish in as short a time as possible Slow it down.
![YoungBoy Never Broke Again - Sneaking [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ILUps2zDFU/mqdefault.jpg)
Really love your content. No nonsense, just the science that keep buildings around for a long time.
Love the videos! Have a possible Q/A subject: how would you approach wall and roof insulation/construction for tiny house on wheels (THOW)? Most use closed cell spray foam and metal siding/roof due to the high R per inch and added rigidity the foam provides, but thermal bridging is almost never addressed. Interested to hear your thoughts when there's priority on minimizing thickness due to building width/height restrictions.
The correct solution is at @3:03 , Single layer roofs is a disaster waiting to happen. Second layer can be Steel, Aluminium, clay tiles, concrete tiles, but the air gap underneath them is a must in any climate that has snow in the winter.
Great info! I just did a metal roof with full peal and stick with venting instead of mechanical fastened synthetic underlayment for the reasons you mentioned in the video. Glad to get some reassurance as this was my first roof done this way. Again, great video as always, packed full of useful and CORRECT info!
@@nfettes1 Thanks so much for watching, sounds like you had the right idea!
What brand did you choose if I may ask?
@@LincolnLog Had three different brands from past projects and friends projects. Just go to your local lumber lumber yard and ask for peel and stick ice and water for metal roofs. What they have in stock is the brand for you.
Thank you again for your effort and helping us figure out our options for better homes
Another amazing video. Thank you.
@@johnrousseau8892 thanks for watching!
I'm thinking about building a house with exposed beams and solid decking. This would be an off grid property in Northern Idaho, so robustness against wildfires is an important consideration. Right now, I'm thinking of placing 1" RockWool Comfortboard around the perimeter of the roof and as the top surface upon which which the battens would be place, with the core of the insulation being PolyIso, for its light weight and high R value. I'm thinking that it would make sense to place a highly reflective radiant barrier, between the first set of battens and the second. This would allow air to circulate directly above the insulation for drying, and would provide an air gap to make the radiant barrier underneath the metal roofing effective. The radiant barrier would also serve as a second level of bulk water protection. Since this is a DYI project, I'm assuming that I can baby the installation so that I don't damage the foil too much. Is there any issues that I'm missing?
Can you do a video on how high heat, self-adhered roofing underlayment performs during a wildfire event? Are some brands better than others? Also, do you recommend covering the entire roof deck with a high heat underlayment if your sheathing is the Huber ZIP system? I know Huber now has an underlayment that you can add on top of their ZIP sheathing but that is probably meant more for additional protection from water penetration during a storm than for fire. Do you see any problems with using a high heat wildfire underlayment under a metal roof while using the ZIP sheathing system?
Was wondering if you could do a more extensive video on interior vapour retarders such as intello and siga, I watched the short one and was left with some questions like are there situations where it’s less effective and how effective they truly are in comparison to exterior air barrier and exterior insulation, thanks for all the content
We do use. an HT layer with metal roofs, but I’ve worried that with closed cell insulation you could trap moisture in the sheathing. In our climate zone we don’t have freezing, but I like it better when we can put exterior insulation on the roof.
it can trap moisture. have you considered using some other form of insulation/vapor barrier?
What is the benefit of an air control layer on the outside of the roof when the interior needs to be either vented already? it’s venting under that air control layer anyway? Same if we have the overroof assembly from Joe Lstiburek? I get the benefit of not having bulk water sit on the sheathing, but this won’t provide any increased air tightness?
@@FreekHoekstra I should have been more clear, it CAN serve as an air control layer in some assemblies, such as in a conditioned roof, not that it is the air control layer, especially not for vented roofs.
Content: 😊
BG loop: 😵💫
Here in Iceland it's common to run a heated wire around the edges of the roof and gutters.
For an unvented assembly in climate zone 6a with exterior rigid insulation and metal cladding, where does an entangled mesh get specified and why? I've seen you mention this on your other videos.
@@ivan.bucher Good question, the entangled mesh is used to provide an air gap and drainage gap between certain roof coverings and the underlayment, such as for metal roofs or cedar shake roofs. But entangled mesh products are limited to around a maximum of 3/4" in depth, so ideally I would want a large gap for a vented over roof (about 2 inches+)
@@ASIRIDesigns is a vented overoof preferred? Is it ever not preferred?
@@ivan.bucher It really depends, you want to avoid them in humid climates, but they were quite well in dry climates if they are designed properly. I have some videos that cover the benefits of both vented and unvented assemblies, and how to make each system work. There are three main reasons why you may want to use an unvented conditioned roof instead, and that's either you're building in a high wind speed zone/hurricane prone area, a region that is at a high risk of wildfire, or if you have a flat roof assembly.
Short anwer, yes. The key is a 4" minimum drip edge. Syphoning is pretty non-existent above 4" of vertical displacement. You are welcome.
Why is there humid air in a conditioned space? Seems like the problem isn't that you've brought the entire attic into the conditioned envelope but that your not actually conditioning the space.
To quote an old carpenter friend of mine:
"Once air conditioning was invented, there is no reason to live like that anymore...."
You talk WAAAY too fast.
Makes me think you really don't want to do the video so you just rush through to finish in as short a time as possible
Slow it down.