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woa! Thats way cool! We get these from DWN- a wholesale nursery. We ship them nationwide january - April as bare-roots. restoringeden.co/product/mulberry-tree-persian/ Thanks!

@@restoringedennursery3551 thanks will call in Jan

Hi! Sorry just domestic shipping :/

@@restoringedennursery3551 😔

@@restoringedennursery3551 can you please help me out with finding whether this stringent or non stringent variety tree ?

All the plants we have are producing fruit by themselves.

Hey! Good to know about Sweet Bagel, I will see if we can order some this year!

Best of luck to you! 9 times out of 10, it will do the trick :)

Thats complicated and not always the nurseries fault. I've noticed a lot of bare-root coming out of Oregon's clay soil do not have feeder roots. I think this is because the soil is hard and they are just trying to get established. Here in Washington state where the soils are loamy the bare-roots come with many more feeder roots. And then from California it can be a real mix but in general they are pretty good. All us mail order nurseries have to source from all over to get all the varieties clients want so naturally some are not as good as other. We ship larger more established bare-roots so in general the root systems are more robust. All the best and happy planting :)

@@restoringedennursery3551 Thank you for taking the time to explain that from a nursery perspective. I'm sure you can understand after receiving and having to ask for credits on trees that don't bud out (no credit for the shipping costs) why I (and others) are reluctant to go that route.

@@AncientHippie 100%! So far this year, we have had 1 shipped bare-root plant that I know of that failed to leaf out and it was definitely on the smaller side of what we typically ship. Due to the size of our plants and the boxes we use to ship our shipping charge is always significantly more expensive than the plant. I always recommend people shop local but often the plants are not available it would seem.

Yes. We ship nationwide when these are bare-root. January-early April. Www.Restoringeden.Co

it really depends on the seller. A lot of mail order nurseries make sure that the plants and boxes that they ship in are 48" or smaller. This keeps shipping costs lower. The result is often that they clients get small trees with little branching. They can and should grow tho! Scratch the bark back and make sure its still green. If it is, chances are it just needs time.

Not as good thats for sure. I would go with a Red Haven if you can mitigate the leaf curl.

fingers crossed! They really benefit from having plants around them that attract pollinators due to their early flowering.

we do not...it definitely would benefit but we tend to be too busy to get around to it :/

glad to hear! Well worth growing, some people think they are too sweet...i'm still a fan. :)

Thanks for the helpful and informative comment. Agreed, such a bummer Costco cant bring in quality fruit :/

hey hey, I wouldn't want to say definitively but i have not observed any pollination issues with Shiro, it is arguably self-fertile. I have a Methley planted nearby and there blooms overlap just fine. If i had to guess I would say it starts blooming 1 week after Santa Rosa.

if you have 15 other varieties there is no issue.

@@troypicou7316 You would think! But being in SE Georgia, a lot of my varieties are pollen sterile chickasaw (Prunus angustifolia) cultivars and pollen sterile Chickasaw hybrids which depend on wild-type Chickasaw for pollination. Wild type tends to bloom quite early in comparison to the cultivars, but I have managed to find two strains that bloom late enough to pollinize most of my cultivars but too early to pollinize a tree that blooms a week after Robusto (Santa Rosa) finishes. I'm hoping that either Auburn University Cherry or Ruby Sweet end up being effective pollinizers for Shiro. Ruby Sweet is supposed to have a strong pollen shed and is supposed to bloom with Santa Rosa. AU Cherry, a cross between Methley and Chickasaw, is supposed to be self-fertile and starts blooming as Robusto (a pollen sterile hybrid reported to bloom with Santa Rosa) finishes. Chickasaw cultivars and their hybrids are super tasty, disease resistant and productive once you overcome the pollen sterility issues. But getting everybody pollinized can be quite the puzzle, especially for the late bloomers.

wow! thats outside my wheelhouse. We are in zone 8B with relatively consistent temps. What is unique about Frost is its late flowering. its one of the last peaches to leaf out so that may help in your situation.

They are uniquely different to one another. Pakistan has no acid to balance the high sugar. Persian has a beautiful acid to sugar balance. I think Persian, has just a slightly more unique and robust berry flavor but you may get tired of it because its kind of in your face. Pakistan I think you could fill your belly full with... more subtle raspberry and sweet berry notes from the Pakistan. Because the Persian that we have doesn't fruit amazingly here I always look forward to them more.

@@troypicou7316 appreciate your response & perspective. Do you happen to carry a Dwarf Persian Morus Nigra?

Yes, I would prune off the moldy parts. You would be surprised the amount of abuse bare-roots can take and still push growth eventually. Give it a go! Don't put much or any compost or fertilizer in the planting hole, let it start all natural and see if it works. Fingers crossed!

@@troypicou7316 thank you so much for the reply! I did cut the ends off of the branches, I hope it helps. When I first planted it, I did not put any fertilizer, but I did a couple weeks later…. Not very much, just a small handful, the bag said to use two cups but I felt that would’ve been too much for my small tree. There is so much mixed information about what to do out there. I will not add anymore fertilizer. Do you think the fertilizer I gave it will do damage??

@@troypicou7316 it worked!! I’m starting to get little green buds growing, thank you so much for this video!!

It needs cross pollination- plant with another pluot or early flowering Japanese plum!

Thank you :)

This was a tree in the nursery. It’s long been sold.

Flavor is very mild. Not much of a strawberry note despite its namesake.

Good to know! In seattle they get big but they just dont get that sweet :/ Still worth growing here but it doesn't reach its full potential.

Did they die or did they never leaf out?

I had got some potted peach trees and put them in the ground and they slowly started to die

@@christopher87105 If your PH is around neutral you could amend with peat moss but I would not put a lot in the whole, that may have been the culprit. With the details you have given its hard to say. Fruit trees in general are easy to grow. Fertilize 2-3 time during the growing season and make sure to water consistently at least 2-3 times each week in the heat of summer. Once they get established they can tolerate less but that first year or two is critical.

Is it ok to plant potted trees that already leafed out into the ground here in April? If so should I cut the roots?

@@christopher87105 yes you can definitely plant now. In the puget Sound you can plant just about year around. For us due to our busy season in the spring we are typically planting in the summer. Do not cut the roots! There is something called root washing but I wouldn't do it this time of year.

hi! Typically we don't worry about PH unless the soil is known to be inbalanced. The best time to plant fruit trees is in the dead of winter or as soon as the ground is workable.

Ok nice im about to plant a peach tree here in April.. the tree has its leaves like yours always should I break up the roots or just leave them?

Agreed, One of the best! So refreshing.

Hi! Thanks for the input. We definitely had a lot on the tree, I like to taste them at different times of ripeness. It also hedges our bets on being able to try them as these are at a nursery where a lot of people walk by and may have dreams of filling up a bag or two for themselves! Red haven should be one of the best but alas it hasn't fruited super well lately :/

​@@restoringedennursery3551 I get that, but It seems that many people really don't know what ripe stone fruit should feel like, let alone look like. I know some people who think peaches, apricots, and plums should have a "crunch" to them like an apple. This sounds like a boomer thing to say, but there are generations of people who have not experienced tree-ripened fruit and rely on what they get at a supermarket as their bar for what fruit should be like. This is not a criticism directed specifically at you, but when I saw the Red Haven peach you were holding, it really looked underripe and pretty much reinforced the underripe stone fruits available at stores. IMO, if your goal is to educate people, maybe go a fraction more and say that, "this is not really ripe, but if it were the color would be...., and it should feel a little firmer than the bottom of your clenched fist when ripe, and not as hard as a rock" Tasting at different times of ripeness is understandable...as long as it's ripe ;-) I like to do the same because it helps me know when a particular cultivar is at "peak" ripeness. I appreciate your videos and look forward to seeing more!

I only tasted first fruit, so maybe the next year they'll be less alike. Chehalis is bumper, as was the one you took a bite out of

Hi! Nothing special for plum trees. General advice is they don't like clay based soils but being in the industry just about every plant tag will say, "likes well draining soil". This Methley was planted in a lasagna based garden bed. We also have one that was planted in native soil with 24" of wood chips on top. That one is doing very good as well :)

Hi! Sorry for not being clear. What I would do in this situation is plant your peaches only as deep as the roots go. it called a root-flare- the root flare should finish at the soil level. I would mix in your compost into the potting hole assuming that its not 'hot' - full of fresh animal manure. If its aged you are good. After that simply add woodchips all around the base of your trees. typically you would only add 3" or so right next to the base of the new trees but for 3-4' out or even further you can add 12" of woodchips. On a final note, make sure to prune your peaches if they are bare-root and have not been pruned yet. Hope this helps.

Oh interesting! I bet they did, thanks for the nugget of information :)

@@restoringedennursery3551 No problem, thank you for the great video!

This was a 1 gallon potted plant when we planted it out. it was roughly 3' tall. Thanks!

its the same one. Thank you for the order!