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You are welcome. I mostly record stuff and put it up here for my future reference, but I'm glad I can give back to the community too as I have found so much info for my projects here on RUclips myself

I just found your message. I will look at it tomorrow and tell you. I am not sure if you are asking what motors I am using, or where to plug the motor into the driver. I'll get info for both

@@eddowney9548 What size of fiber cable copper wire?

@@eddowney9548 Do you have a wiring diagram? Is it a cnc system? I'd like to see a paper drawing holder. before connecting to actual use

I actually ended up going with a different driver/servo combo with a higher voltage carrying ability. Everything works the same and connects the same, but the one I ended up using is stronger. The driver - LiCHUAN model LCDA86H Microstep Driver. It can use VAC 20v-70v or VCD 30v-100v. And it can use 5vdc to 24vdc from the break out board. Maximum 51200 pulses per rev. The motor - LiCHAUN LC60H2127 2 phase servo, step angle 1.8deg phase current 5.8a holding torque 5.5N.M. it uses 4 motor leads and 6 encoder wires that come prewired. Maker - Shenzhen Xinlichuan Electric Co I can't remember, but I think the encoder is 1000 steps, maybe it was 2000, and the driver has an option for 1000 or 2000 microsteps, so I think I just made them match. But, you can use other combinations. As I said, the motors come pre-wired so I just connected them to the driver. If you need to supply your own, it needs to carry 6a, so I'm guessing minimum 18ga. I always go overkill, so I'd probably use 16ga. The other wires are signal wires, so size not too important really. I use small, but not tiny wires there. This is not a "kit" cnc. It is just kind of thrown together. I don't know what you mean by a " paper drawing holder ", but no, I didn't have a wiring diagram to go off of, but if you understand it well enough, it's easy enough to figure out. hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. I'll do my best to answer, but I'm not really very knowledgeable myself. I just watched alot of vids and read alot of forums. I also joined a Makerspace and people there helped me too

yes, I'm sure 36v would be fine, but I am greedy and want everything I can get out of it. I ended up going with different drivers for those closed loop steppers as seen in this vid here -> ruclips.net/video/t8Xm_-lnXrQ/видео.htmlsi=NMEjH_VhJezZQRom If I remember correctly, they can take up to 80vdc. I put 60v power supplies in for them, but wanted more, haha. At the time I made this vid, someone had told me that higher volts will help you achieve higher feed rates (everything else being equal). Not sure if that is true in a system like this where it has alot to do with how fast it pulses and how well it can process those pulses, but in any case, I do want all the holding power I can get and overkill also allows me to trim it down a little and run at a cooler temperature generally speaking.

yes, I do. it's tucked into the floor there

Thx for bringing that to my attention, even tho It isn't what I want to hear, haha. I was thinking about going with better bearings and then I'd be able to go to much higher rpm's. Have you ever heard of anyone doing that with these old machines? By the way, I have many spare parts if you are interested. I'd sell for reasonable price. I have 2 spindle drives and I think 5 or 6 servo drives. Seems like there are other goodies I can part with as well. I have all the control boards too I think. If you bought enough parts, I'd just throw stuff like that in for free.

@@eddowney9548 actually mine had a bearing job done on it and was only used for like two years before I bought it. The guy said he did it himself and the hardest part is lifting out the motor. I'd have to look at the prints but I think it's just got a couple main bearings and a couple thrust bearings. So it's supposedly not as painful as rebuilding a Bridgeport. I have a spare motor. And electronics for an 82 I believe... Hard to tell the difference. The V2 had the option for a 10k rpm spindle. And probably different software. I got basically everything electric from the other machine except spare servos, switches and solenoids. So I might have to take you up on that at some point. Still trying to just get it fully powered up. Trying to get enough power to the garage safely but as cheaply as possible. Also I amassed a load of literature for the 81 and 82 models. Here's a link to everything I got in PDFs. I also have some paper literature that I need to scan eventually with more detailed mechanical information etc. Let me know if you have any issues downloading it. Are you by any chance on the Home Machine Shop group on Facebook or any other groups we may have in common? drive.proton.me/urls/TW39CMK8X8#yVNxFuJ8gg5I

@@bonkbonk92 I bought my own VFD spindle drive, so I can go very high rpm's if I could get the spindle to hold up to it. My machine is rated for 4000 rpm's. I'm thinking with proper bearings I'll be all set. No, I'm not on any forums. I tend to take the military approach. That is to say that I try to figure it out without bothering anyone until I have to. So far, I have been able to scan various forums and find someone else asking the same question. I also belong to a makerspace and there are a few guys there who can help out. Thank you for the files! They downloaded no problem. I'll have to figure out how to make what I have gathered available to you. I'll be posting a vid on the main cabinet soon. I am rewiring the whole thing. I still don't have everything I should have, but I'll have to do more upgrades later I guess. Of course, it'll be no good to you because it's mostly centroid stuff, except the servo transformers that I reused. I had to go with the centroid system, or something like it, I don't have the knowledge to use the original electronics. I am having to learn a mountain of info as it is. It actually ran as is when I bought it, but had alot of "ghosts" in the machine. Always something weird happening. btw, my spindle belt has "memory" in it from sitting in one position forever. Do you know anything about that belt, and/or a source to buy a new one?

@@eddowney9548 you're welcome! That's nearly all the information I've been able to find on that thing. Methods Machinery does have a few resources of their own for these things that haven't been thrown out that I haven't acquired yet. The belt will just be something you'll have to either ask Matsuura about, or you can measure it and call Kaman Industrial or another company that can find you one or have one made. That's actually a good thing. Most of the parts can be replaced by something else or something standard. There's not much in these machines that was proprietary. Most of the weird stuff can be supplemented. Bearings and belts are technically the easiest things. Most of the replacement parts that aren't hideously obsolete will be at least known by dealers like Methods, so you can ask them too if they were the ones who imported the machine originally. Not sure if the bearing packs were very different between the RPM specs. So I would guess once you rebuild it should be able to do 10k. Pretty sure it's just the motor and VFD that's different. The most annoying thing that I think I may encounter while upgrading is that they used to use 12v servo encoders, but I think they changed to 5v in 82. 12v ones don't play nice with new stuff. There's a guy who did a Mach3 conversion on here that had to align and epoxy new encoders.... Not doing that. lol I'd sooner buy newer used Yaskawa AC servos or make custom mounts for standard encoders. I asked about forums mainly to open a line of communication. I'd rather not put my email out here for everyone to see.

@@bonkbonk92 that's good to hear about 10k rpm's. I'd like that very much. I am using the original servos and centroid encoders. I just customized the mounting. I am rebuilding a servo right now, so I could do a vid on how I did it. The only problem is, it isn't perfect. Plus, when I ordered the encoders I got 1/4 inch bearing and it is much harder to adapt it. I should have gotten the 1/2 inch. The shaft of the encoder armature is around 5/8 or something, so I could easily turn it down on a lathe to 1/2inch for a perfect mount job. I suppose I could still do it for a 1/4 inch. I'll have to look at it again I guess. Anyway, what I have right now runs out a little but the mount is a thin piece of metal that flexes and gives when it needs to. I have many things on this build that is "temporary" and I am trying so hard to make sure they don't become permanent, haha.

Hi Ron. Sorry, I'm not sure where I got that wire. Over the years I have scavenged many things. I find them in second hand stores or yard sales, etc. I think this is one of those items.

hey Ron I just re-read your question and I see that I misread it b4. I thought you asked where I sourced those wires. They got to the top of my BOB as seen in this vid at about 2 mins in - ruclips.net/video/l1lK107s08w/видео.html

Thx for the info Jason. Yes, my servos are DC. I had the x axis go out already. Luckily, I had a spare servo motor. I guess I should take the failed one apart and clean it and see if it'll still work. If so, I'll swap them out one atta time and clean them all up. And, most of the noise is when I in move in the z axis. Can you tell me how much trouble it is to exchange the thrust bearings? I'll do some research on my own of course to see what I can find out. Of course, if I do one, I'll do them all.

@eddowney9548 very easy, just line up the arrows correctly, (there a matched set) just prop up the head and take apart what you gotta.....you'll see once you pull the guards. Have fun! By the way,,if you don't have play don't change them...the new ones will just be quieter..put an indicator on the end of the screw and see if it moves in and out. (Any movement is bad)

@@jasonruch3529 thx Jason. I have checked the backlash, and there is almost none in all axis'. Would the "play" that you are talking about show up that way? btw, it uses gears to drive from the servo motor to a coupling gear to the gear on the ballscrew. I was thinking alot of the noise was just the gears clanking. I don't have the covers on and the noise would be louder than when it all gets buttoned up.

@eddowney9548 if you put an indicator on the end of the ball screw and jog it back and forth.....if you don't have and movement the bearings are fine..just noisey...if you get like .001 of movement I'd change em. There should be zero play in and out of the ballscrew

@@jasonruch3529 ok, thx! I'll do that. and make a little vid of it too maybe

thank you for your interest. It is winter and heating the garage every day is not in my budget, so I'm taking a break on it for a couple months. Yes, it is very stressful trying to figure all this out. Most of it, I don't understand at all at first. But, I have more time than money, and I do enjoy learning new things. Stay tuned, I will try to go in depth into all aspects of this machine and control in time.

@@eddowney9548 I feel you on the more time than money situation lol and same here, I never had ANY electronics experience whatsoever before rewiring that new control in on my own. Guessing you're located further up north than I am with the winter situation, or maybe thats the first benefit I've finally realized to by shop being just a single car garage is that I insulated it myself for less than 200 bucks and can keep the temperature where it needs to be with just a couple space heaters. But yeah, ill def be keeping an eye out for your progress on this man!

@@wolfhausindustries yeah, I'm up in Canada, but I'm from the states. I just took a look at your channel. I like the thumbnails that pop out at you and get your attention and the logo is good too. It'll take me a while to get thru your vids, but most of what you got are things that interest me. I often think about doing vids that lean towards better marketing, but then I just think that it's just one more thing, and I have a long list of one more things that I'd rather put time into, ha

@@eddowney9548 Thanks man, appreciate that. Funny you mention the marketing thing cuz thats kind of my current dilemma. I originally just wanted to make a couple of videos about things I couldn't find much info on out there about (like certain tools I bought, or really with the old control my cnc originally came with) as an attempt to pay it back since I've learned everything about machining from youtube videos as a hobby. But now that I've got a couple of products I'm about to try put out there, I'm kinda clueless on how to get the world to see them and just winging it filming random stuff that comes to mind. taking the time to record/edit most stuff is the absolute last thing I wanna be doing cuz I just like making things, but don't know how else to go about making things for people besides myself without putting something out there lol

@@wolfhausindustries yeah, it's not easy figuring that stuff out. It'd be nice to get a little ad money for the effort, but it's probably best not to think about that stuff too much and just do what interests you most at the moment. If people are interested, then great. It'll come easy if it's organic like that.

Thx Karine. Procrastination and being messy are 2 of my main battles in life.

Gracias, acepto todas las críticas. Estoy de acuerdo en que la mala gestión de cables como la que tengo en esta máquina puede ser algo malo, personalmente nunca he tenido un problema con ella. Personalmente, no me gusta la cadena de arrastre de cable que usa la mayoría de la gente, pero me gusta la forma en que se ve una cadena de arrastre. La forma en que tengo mis cables es muy funcional, y soy un tipo de función sobre la forma. Usé el traductor de google para responderte. Espero que funcione bien. Gracias nuevamente por tomarse el tiempo para comunicarse conmigo.

Acabo de echar otro vistazo al video, y tienes razón, jaja, ¡es feo en mi caja electrónica! Desafortunadamente para mí, tiendo a hacer algo temporal y termina siendo permanente.

Y ahora deseo actualizar toda la máquina para que tenga un diseño de metal y rieles hiwin en lugar de los cilíndricos que tengo ahora. Así que siento que si lo arreglo bien, será una pérdida de tiempo.

thank you Noan. I had to play the vid back to see what you meant. It's at about 4 minutes in. I suppose you may be right. It still seems odd to me that they'd have a means to connect a wire there if it is in fact no connection to be made. Doesn't really matter, I didn't use it and all is well. It works no issues.

@@eddowney9548 Sometimes when you design something you make room for future use but you mark it as not being used for people to know its not to be used. ;)

@@noanyobiseniss7462 thx, I'll keep that in mind. Maybe I'll be a little less confused at times in the future. Always nice to learn something new.

When you reset the e stop does it reset the drive or do you have to restart the drive?

Sorry Alex the open loop steppers were over powered and the newer closed loop ones are as well. Hard to compare when you really have no problems with either one. The biggest issue I have with speed is that I am using a very old computer with a very cheap bob which limits my max steps per sec. So if I want high resolution I can't feed fast. And visa versa.

Oops meant to say hard to compare when you rrally have no problems with either one

@@eddowney9548 cheers thanks , my closed loop steppers are on their way , cant wait to fit and test

Hi Wira. Yes, I take the wires on all the ALM+ and ALM- and simply run them in series with each other, then wire them in series with the e-stop switch. If the drive faults out, it will turn off the spindle and disable the drives. The e-stop itself is wired into the breakout board at marker 7:20 in this vid - ruclips.net/video/l1lK107s08w/видео.html It's been a while, but I think all switches are in normally closed option which is preferred. One wire from the e-stop ( e-stop is set for normally closed ) goes to pin 10 on the breakout board and the other goes to ALM- on the driver, then from ALM+, then to the next driver's ALM-, out of that driver's ALM+ until you go through all the drivers like that in series, then out of the last ALM+ of the driver to DC ground. note** if the ALM+/_ connection is normally open, you will have to wire the drivers in parallel with each other and then wire the e-stop in parallel and the e-stop will need to be normally open as well. sorry it took so long to reply. I don't come on here alot. Feel free to ask if you have more questions, I'll do the best I can to help you.

If you mill the 4x4's nice and parallel and the internal pressure from the grain was working for you instead of against you , then I suppose it would be fine. I used the bamboo flooring and laminates because they were already very parallel and easy to keep true. 8020 aluminum would be best, but sometimes we try to save money and use what we have on hand. I will never use laminate flooring again though for anything like this. The top has glass or something in it that destroys cutting tools. The bamboo was ok though

thx Tony. I just went there and watched his cover video. It does look like my kind of fun, I'll definitely go through his vids! ruclips.net/user/shelbyandsimonvideos

well, ordinarily you have a 12v power supply plugged into the RAMPS board. I'm saying here to find a computer power supply that delivers at least 5 amps and use that instead. The system glitched out on me several times and the problem stopped when I disconnected the 12v poer supply to the RAMPS and plugged in a 19v laptop power supply instead. It is possible to run on 12v, but not for me this time

@@eddowney9548 Yes but I thought that feeding more than 12v to the ramps is not advisable. If it were by me I would use 30v if possible.

@@puchomoreno the info I read said that you can input up to 22 volts, but that would be borderline, so 19 is good. And 19 is max I would go. Also, when I had 12v input and set the drivers to .7 volts, and then I input the 19 volts, I checked the drivers and they were still at .7 volts.

My background; I am a tool and die machinist and have been running cnc's since the 1980's. I bought a Mazak cnc mill in the 90's when I had my own job shop. About 5 years ago I bought a Legacy Arty cnc mill, 3 years ago I lead a team of guys at my Makerspace to build an MPCNC (this one I am using belongs to a friend), and earlier this year I built a medium sized cnc router which I have vids of here on my channel which did teach me alot. now, I know that means little when it comes to building your own and working out the little details of "chasing down the gremlins". I admit I don't know everything, and could even go as far as to say I don't know much in the grand scheme of things. But i do know that this limitation of a very very very slow z axis is normal for this build when cutting 3D. I have read it in the forums. One easy solution is a 2 or 4 start leadscrew instead of this threaded rod. I am using low voltage because it is the design of this machine to do so. I am actually on the high end of the scale. btw, I don't know if you know, but this is a kit build basically. www.v1engineering.com/ . the correct stepper motor - this is the correct stepper for this kit. I did say in a reply that more voltage with an external driver would make a big difference though. thousands of people have built this machine and don't complain. I'm guessing because they don't know what a real CNC acts like. it is not mechanical slippage. I say that, but I suppose I could confirm that as I have recently decided to take another run at it. But, I always file flats on the shafts where the setscrew goes and nothing is loose. But your sugestion for cutting air is not a good test for this machine. I can cut air at 20 IPM with no errors, but have fails at 10 IPM when cutting wood. bigger stepper - yeah, maybe. I'd try more volts first though. the thing is, most of the builders of this machine don't cut 3D, they just do 2.5D and that is much less work for the z axis so most users never have the problems I am having. I am quite confident it will work at 3, 4 or maybe 5 IPM Z axis feed, but the reason I walked away from this machine is I have a Legacy CNC and a home built cnc that's even better than the Legacy, and who wants to let a machine creep along all day with one cut that should take 20 minutes? Then there's the problem of keeping it square! And consistently getting your work zero's in x and y from one day to the next or after a power outage. haha, I just talked myself out of running it again. Now I remember why I walked away. even if I got the z axis to run at 50 IPM reliably, it would still suck. yep, I am done with this machine. A much better build for not much more money is here - ruclips.net/video/jMcblAB_fe0/видео.html

thx Kyle. I know the MPCNC is a good design and the forum is great too. Problem really is that I have 2 other cnc's that are great heavy duty machines, so I'm a bit spoiled. #1 I began with Vref voltage at .7 and then took it to .9 and then 1.1. The drivers get a little hot when going over .9volts. I could go 1.2 to 1.3 and put a fan right on it, but shouldn't have to. It should work fine at .9 to 1volt I would think. I think the problem is counting steps, which reminds me now, I have the steps at 32microsteps. If it is steps, I could try 8 and see improvement. #2 I guess you didn't watch all my vids on this machine because I showed the ease of movement that the z axis has. It moves easy as can be with the motors off by one finger, and yes, it is lubed (#3). It is not friction. I worked with my Makerspace and built a different one and it could only do 7 IPM in the Z axis as well. It seems to me this is normal operating parameters for this machine.

The machine actually belongs to a friend and he wants to hold on to it for now, sorry. But you can buy full kits here: www.v1engineering.com/

Thanks but pass on the entire kit, I already have one and it works great. I just wanted a second one

Thanks Efren. I have thought about firing it back up from time to time. I started running it with z axis feed at 20IPM and it failed so I went to 15, it failed again, so I went to 10 and it still failed. Now I figure it might run well at 5 to 7 IPM. Mechanically, the z axis moved freely, so I know it's under powered. I think what is needed is at the very least an external driver with 36V or more. Also a 4 start leadscrew would help.

I have had no issues, but I haven't ran the machine for long periods. It is not ideal, that is for sure. For me, the bigger issue was trying to get the clamping pressure tight enough without breaking the plastic as I tightened the clamp screws. It takes a high level of finesse.

Ed Downey Gotcha! Thank you

Thx for the offer and the pat on the back. I do like to make things. I'm not big into making vids though. Maybe some day I will get interested in having a better presentation and gaining subs, but for now I'm just documenting what I am doing for future reference. I am also doing this to share with my makerspace club. If anything I do is interesting enough and you want to share it, feel free.

Hi Brian. That build there is about 30x40x4. I have a friend there at the makerspace that is building a 48x48x6. You can build it just about as big as you want, but you loose rigidity as you go bigger. If the 9 in your dimensions is travel distance in z axis, that is where you'll have the most trouble. It all comes down to if you are trying to just make a machine that works or one that works good. With less rigidity, you have to slow down the cut feed rate as well as the rpm's. If you don't mind going real slow and also you'll lose some accuracy due to sag in the emt pipe, then you should be ok. Btw, make sure you get 3/4 emt (not 1 inch emt, the 3/4 emt is close to 1 inch OD) at your local hardware store and measure it b4 you order or print your plastic parts. Anyway, the one in the vid here is close to what you want to build except in the z, and it does fairly well. Hope that helps. If you have any more questions just ask.

Also, this is the router we got and we're very happy with it - www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.1000848739.html?eid=PS_GOOGLE_HD+%7C+PLAs_Shopping+%7C+Power+Tools_Power+Tools&gclid=Cj0KEQiAzsvEBRDEluzk96e4rqABEiQAezEOoNF7eqfzm8LrU-GQDNrhjjwJ7kpVexbGB5pgFxSwAe0aAo5F8P8HAQ

there is a free 3d print for a clamp for it to mount to this machine on thingiverse too

Cool...I guess I will go 36x36x6 then instead of 9, I want it for routing or for laser engraving, drag knife...stuff like that...already have a 220x220x240 3D printer so don't need it to 3D print.

You can always make different sets of legs and z axis rods for bigger jobs and swap them out as needed. For that matter you can have different length x,y rods since they are so cheap. But for the legs and z, it's an easy, fast swap and you can have more rigidity when working on sheet goods with short legs.

Hi Juan, I'm not sure what you are asking, but I am using 3/4 EMT metal conduit. The tubing has about 1 inch outer diameter. The way I am measuring is that I am not actually measuring really at all. I just cut all parts the exact same length as each other using my cnc router there. The point of doing it this way was to be able to assemble the MPCNC easier and have it square where needed and parallel where needed also. I did originally just use a tape measure and hack saw and cut them a little extra long before I cut them again on my CNC router there.