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Great video. Really helped out swapping this out this afternoon. One tip I would add is to use one of those flexible extenders to remove the rear upper bolt. In addition, you can use the extender to help move the flap in the proper position for the splined shaft of the new unit. Once you remove the splined shaft gear from the old unit, a T-40 torx bit fits perfectly in the center of the gear, with a few taps from a hammer to lock it in. Now you can connect the flexible extender to the bit and turn it to drop into the opening for the gear and turn it to the proper position. I also found that if you're close, but not quite there with lining up the splines, keeping light pressure against the new unit while you turn on the ignition switch causes the unit to turn and drop into place. Just make sure to leave the power on until you get a couple of the screws snugged down or it will pop out and it returns to its position before the power was on.

Sir! Outstanding Class Perfect O! Thank You Big Guns Retired Marine!

Tell me you’ve never used an air hammer before without telling me you’ve never used an air hammer before

Thank you so much!! You don’t know how much of a blessing this was for my family. Same issues fixed with this solution. Costed about 5$

Great video! This is a fantastic resource for fixing the root cause of all HVAC issues on the WK2, not just the blend door, but also the direction doors too.

Thanks for the video. I am preparing to do this repair on my 2002 F150, what is the part number of the larger bearing you install at 31:44? Thanks.

Completing this job tried all the hacks, but bought the unit on the 2012 SRT the dash has 2 Philips screws on each corner near the windshield. I am fixing the leather dash also , the heater hoses when the unit is free from the firewall i had enough room under dash to grab both hoses. Thank so much for taking the time with the work and video God Bless!

Looking for some hst

Amazing detail! Really appreciate your time and effort to record and educate.

What car?

Yes what car is this?

I had to same problem right after I got a new engine! I’m really thinking about trading my sonata in. Should I do it?

Is there not different cone sizes

Thanks!

Thank you !

Why is that three dollar piece affect the acceleration?

Do you need to drain engine oil before doing this ?

Helped a lot ! Saved me $300 thank you man

I was right with you until you came back and the audio didn’t exist and subtitles were nada too.

my 2004 astro has different hubs is yours a 4x4/?

Nice video, and just what I was looking for! I got jingling/clinking noise from both top strut mounts when I hit thin, long perpendicular to the road expansion cracks- shop wants $1000 parts and labor- and I think it's just the top strut mounts- 2014 SRX4. They want to replace the whole strut (not leaking or bouncing). 104,000 highway miles. What do you think? I subscribed to your channel. Thanks!

Thank you. This was the best video i found on this. Definitely saved my but.

You know coach nice video and good job . But you should have at least drove the truck before showing the issue. Instead of showing the after .

What car is this?

Absolute gem

Good ol Ford trash and their problems lol.... Idk why anyone would ever buy a POS Ford product

So does this mean I need to replace the resistor not the motor?

Pretty hard to get your hands in that small space when there as big a snow shovels !

Problem I just had with 2012 Tucson. Made a short trip to toss the garbage, left the car running, backed up ok....then put in drive, car still idling, but zero acceleration, reverse yes, drive nothing. I then noticed check engine light on. I turned motor off, then it wouldn't start up. At a loss for words, I decided to disconnect the battery for a couple minutes, then it started up and everything worked again....wtf? I watched your video about brake lights intermittently being on...haven't had that issue. Thoughts?

Problem I just had with 2012 Tucson. Made a short trip to toss the garbage, left the car running, backed up ok....then put in drive, car still idling, but zero acceleration, reverse yes, drive nothing. I then noticed check engine light on. I turned motor off, then it wouldn't start up. At a loss for words, I decided to disconnect the battery for a couple minutes, then it started up and everything worked again....wtf?😮

Had this issue for over a year, 4 mechanics, last one a Ford, tech, i had cooling level sensor changed and issue continued, turns out it was a faulty wire harness.

If you look you will see a cross down where the wipers sit when there turned off,there’s one one on both sides of the windshield,with the wipers is when you turn the wipers off,put the wipers on and put the blade I the center of the cross and your done,I PROMISE the cross is there just look where the wipers are when there off,no sense in marking anything,I couldn’t find the cross’s at first but eventually located them..

To save time and the headache lift the bed it’s just a few screws and not too heavy to lift by self but very easy for a two man move. Plus the weight of a full tank of gas trying to carry lol

hello... what if im having this issue but the break light isnt staying on?

I feel bad for the people with bigger hands

Where are you guys located?

Painful to watch. Tag the tag assembly of with four Torx screws!!!! You get a lot more room to work

how about my 2011 sonata it cant go up 60kph up. it is maf or map sensor? or turbo booster?

Exactly what my hyundai is doing,when I stop then try to accelerate it will not take off,the ill wait a few depress the gas again then it takes off

Abs sensor?? Broken?? ,👀✌️

Thank you so much for posting this! My wife was so anxious, thinking it was a major and costly repair. Thanks to your video, I was able to order the stopper from Amazon and fixed her vehicle in minutes. I’m sure the dealership would have charged a lot of money for this simple fix.

Thank you so very much! This was the problem. I'm a girl and I always end up paying a fortune every single time my car breaks because these mechanics know I have no idea what is going on. I watched your video and did it myself!! Your truly a lifesaver

This is not the video I needed: My Hyundai(pronounced Yon-die), jerks and sputters when accelerating - once I get up to fourty MPH it runs smooth, unless you get going up hill, then it will jerk and almost come to a complete stop.

Hyundai TSB 18-BE-010

Did anyone else start adding refrigerant after replacing the Ecv valve and then it popped out? Maybe need a new snap ring?

Omg thank you so much! I'm 2 days in and you saved me so much time and money!! 🎉 Your very much appreciated

Wow! Thank you Not sure how to put a new one in but I think I can figure it out

Do the mechanical valves in the s models fail like this? I have same pressure and problem

This is got to be the best underneath the dash quality cam shots I’ve ever seen

Can you hook one of those clamps to your mouth so we can hear wtf you’re saying???