Видео

These are monitors not recorders. If you’re worried about glare, use a hood. None of them have more or less glare imo. It's more about brightness and angle. Just like your smartphone screen. So having an adjustable mount and hood to adjust position and angle in extreme conditions is the best way to go. No matter if it's a $200 or $5000 dollar monitor.

Try shooting something different

The one in the video runs on regular AA batteries. If you have a different model I'd suggest googling the camera model or battery pack model + replacement charger. Ebay and Amazon are also good places to look.

It's the feelworld P6X - those shots are from my review of that very monitor. ruclips.net/video/3xfxba3M4zc/видео.html It's a nice monitor. But for anamorphic shooting I will typically recommend a slightly larger monitor like the Viltrox DC-X2 or X3 ruclips.net/video/h9XguS1a36Y/видео.html as you're only utilizing a small portion of the acutual screen when de-squeezing the image.

Yes absolutely. you can unthread it.

It can be a concern for sure. The monitor will pass through power via the usb-c which is good if you're using a V-Mount and a D-Tap to npf dummy. And probably from an external npf 970 (personally I prefer smaller 750’s on the monitor itself) So even if there's a workaround, it's not always ideal for every use case.

I wish, I played around with some profiles inspired by astroid city which isn't exactly the same but has a similar vibe. Unfortunately I had a hard time taking suitable sample images here in Sweden to finalize it. But it’s still on my hard drive. So I might resume it

No that into external recorders personally. But if I can come over a couple of them I'll definitely put something together.

I've not tried the TTartisan so I can't say how it stacks up against this one.

Awesome, I hope you'll enjoy this experience too. I try to treat these pretty much the same as daylight balanced film too. Embracing the warm tones of tungsten instead of changing wb. I could also recommend you to check out the T-Rex and shoot around 1600 iso for some surprisingly good looking noise/grain and the pro neg, losely based on 400H

@@thomasfransson I will totally take a look thanks, much appreciated. I'm all about the easy approach, analog is not perfect and I do not want my digital pictures to be either. The clean and overly realistic look has always scared me away from digital that's why i greatly appreciate your work.

I hear you. Another tip would be to see if there's adapters for your analog lenses to EF. Pentax K works well on EF with a simple adapter from K&F and I use it quite frequently to get even more analog vibes.

@@thomasfransson Another great tip man thanks for looking out for me :3

Always happy to share. Cheers!

That's a good question. Maybe pro neg or crowdak. they're not too out there in case you only want to shoot jpg.

@thomasfransson thank you sir..

Perfect! Hope it helped

Nice, glad it was helpful. Let me know if there's anything you're wondering or would like to see in an upcoming video.

Thank you

Yes, I believe most if not all Canon cameras have three of these slots. Maybe the 1DX MkII and other top of the line models have 5 slots. But don't quote me on that 😅

@why can’t the just add a couple more🥲

That would have been sweet!

Oké

Thank you, good to have you over.

Everything except where I'm seen using/holding the lens.

Thanks dude. I appreciate it 🙏

That would be awesome. It looks like they mean business with this new Air series. Probably going to be a 23 and 85 too hopefully.

Hmm, sorry if you expected something else, but I don't get your point really. There's not a whole lot of differences like I cover in the video apart from the points I made and illustrated in that side by side regarding field of view and the distortion. Secondly some of the examples was shot with a speed booster and some don't. But it was never the point to make a video that is a side by side comparison shot by shot. Third, a lot of the affordable anamorphics out there only covers s35 unlike these ones. And I know that a lot of people based on research: 1. Aren't aware of speed boosters 2. Wonder if and how these lenses works with a speed booster. 3. Which might tie in to 1. But sharing the fact that even if you’re shooting on a s35 camera these lenses aren’t a waste of money and you could get a speed booster to get more out of them or two separate focal lengths. Which is way cheaper than buying a full frame camera if you want that look. I could go on and on to explain my train of thought as well as the title which have changed a couple of times btw. And the fact that I've had these lenses for a year almost but never really showed any footage or talked about them on this channel so I figured I'd at least share some footage and say a few words on how I like them, how I use them. Forth, Cam Mackey have done so much indepth explanation and comparison on these lenses s35 vs ff and I'm honestly a bit surprised that you haven't seen those videos if you’re interested in these lenses or they didn't answer those questions already. Fifth, like I said I have these lenses, I have a s35, I have a speedbooster and I have a full frame camera. If there's anything you would like to see covered in a video, say it, leave a suggestion in a polite way and I would better understanding what type of information you are looking for and could probably make a video to answer these questions. If this video didn't answer them. It's all about being polite and civil, it always wins in the long run. Cheers

Interesting, I just looked at B&H and you're right. I thought DJI would include a case at those prices. After all it's basically like the one in the video but with more USB-C ports. Same payload and everything... Personally I find cases to be to bulky and typically just stick the gimbal in the side pocket of my camera bag. But I can see the use for them in some situations.

It was the Blazar Remus 65mm, which is also used on the two intro clips. (Walking towards camera and photographing. Fun lenses ruclips.net/video/Bb_q9DcoSVY/видео.htmlsi=msL5-6SgJDIUlftr

Thank you

Sounds like you're into cameras ;) The lens was released December 18th.

@ a lil bit. just wild to see them back to back

Haha I know how that can be. Cheers

Awesome! That was shot on an anamorphic lens, the Blazar Remus 65mm T2. It's a 1.5x stretch anamorphic. I have the 45mm on the camera with the monitor.

Hey welcome aboard the filmic train! I know there was some hiccups with some of the newer OS versions earlier. I hope you get it sorted (I'm on windows, so I'm afraid I can't offer much help) But be sure to contact Canon if it seems unsolvable.

Haha! Thanks, I'd forgotten about that series, any good?

@@thomasfransson its a must see - like your next video buddy.

2 x thank you, just watched the trailer and qued it up. Hope to start over Christmas. Thank you Stewart ❤️

@@thomasfransson Great acting, Great locations and the story is compelling. Merry Christmas to you and all the best for 2023!

Thank you Stewart, merry Christmas 🎅

My pleasure!

It outputs 5v 1A over usb-c So you'll better check your transmitter and see how much it need when powered over usb-c.

It's certainly worth experimenting with to see which you prefer. I typically don't adress this and similar features as not everyone is comfortable changing these kind of settings. Some are still worried it will break their camera ;)

Yep, without a problem.

@@thomasfransson Thanks!

No problem. Cheers

Yes

I'm not overly familiar with those monitors so I can just look at the spec sheets which didn't provide much info regarding their suitability for color critical work. But if it's just normal editing and exporting 8bit rec709 for youtube and social media, I wouldn't worry too much. See if you can figure out if they have a dedicated rec.709 mode.

I assume you want to fill the screen and focus more on what's in the center rather than seeing the whole image you record? Yes, pretty much all of them, the function may differ a bit between different brands from pinch to going in and highlighting the area you want visible.

@ Yepp exactly. My Osee t7 only has 2x and 4x zoom which is way too much. Trying to fill more of the screen with a 2.39 crop using my Catos essentially

Gotcha, yeah pretty much all of them will allow you to zoom in in various ways from simple pinch zoom to more "advanced" cropping like the LH7P. Which I can recommend as well, the LH7P and the Viltrox DC-X has been my go to for anamorphic lately.

@@thomasfransson sick, thanks for the replies man have a good week!

@@thomasfransson is it true the dc-x only supports signals up to 30fps?

Yes you can!

@@thomasfransson great, thanks!

Interesting, I've looked at Viltrox speedbooster ever since I got my first mirrorless but there seems to be some inconsistencies causing various problems. From hot spots to problems with focusing to infinity and forth. That’s why I went with metabones. (I bought mine used for about half the price) But there's also the general fact that when there's adapters involved including speed boosters it may require fine tuning of the lens/adapter or both to get the best performance. It can work fantastically adapted to one mount and the same lens can act up if you adapt it to another mount because of the adapters used and small variances between different camera brands and more. From what I've gathered this can also be true when dealing with a PL lens and various cameras with native PL mount. Sadly I'm not too familiar with the Viltrox speed booster and how/if it's possible to fine tune it to regain that sharpness or if you need to shim the lens in order to get around the problem which would mean you'd might get the same type of problem without the speed booster. And speaking of shimming I watched a longer video where they re-shimmed their Remus lenses to either have a more even sharpness across the frame or if they preferred more center sharpness, I can't remember which direction they went. But the point is that these more "general" lenses in comparison to a specific E, RF, Z, X or L mount lens that’s optimized from the factory may have more variances in performance before fine tuned to a specific camera and or adapter.

@@thomasfransson Thanks very much for the detailed response. Going to experiment a bit more :)

Best of luck, as I'm curious myself on this, feel free to let me know how things go.

Haha what? Do you mean support arms? Look around again, not even Edelkrone and Rhino include these with their sliders - They are sold as a separate option just like Knova, YC Onion, GVM, NEEWER, ACCSOON and so on do. The only brand I'm aware that includes supports with SOME of their models is Zeapon. But that's once again only for a handful of their models that comes with a motorized head. Stop spreading false information dude.

Well, got to do something, I'm definitely not into sports and those types of time wasting activities ;)

@thomasfransson yeah that's right MAY U GET SUCCESS ☺️🫣

You too, cheers

Congratulations on your R10! Thank you I appreciate it, hope you like them!

Tried and true! :D

Are you sure you got the dimensions right if not that might be your problem. This is the cable I use for my Lilmon 5 - amzn.to/4gu3MfG Love the locking threads on the cable and monitor.

@thomasfransson ohh you got the 2.5mm that must be the reason. Thanks a lot!

I hope that's the problem.

Honestly they're my two favorites of the lot so I'd pick both. If you’re someone who appreciate features this one - amzn.to/41wgzKc If brightness and ruggedness is important - amzn.to/4fgsRK9 Which still seems to be 15% off I'd be happy to help further if you tell me more about how and for what you intend to used your monitor

@ just before I continue this conversation mate, something that stood out to me and one of the few reasons I subscribed is you reply to every single person on here. We all appreciate it a lot and if you can keep up with it long term, you’ll build a solid community of people. I know I can vouch for myself with that. Thank you 🙏🏼

@ I like as many controls on the monitor as I can such as touch to focus, histograms etc, decent brightness but to be honest it’s not a deal breaker as where I live rarely gets super bright. Adding LUTS is ideal, and realistically minimal sound when recording. Size isn’t as important to me, big or small, nor ruggedness I do like the SDI cable option for security.

Thank you and sorry for the late response, it's been a lot here lately 😅

Touch focus is really sweet even if I don't use it all the time. When it comes to histograms and that sort of features they both got you covered. The Portkeys has a few more bells and whistles outside of exposure tools like grabbing frames off the monitor and they both can hold luts if your camera doesn't support luts. In terms of noise they're about the same, they can run very quiet and I can’t remember exactly, but I'm quite sure the fan can be turned off on the Portkeys too. From my experience you hear the fan when you boot up and then it goes down to in audible levels. On the Portkeys. The Viltrox I've never really heard the fan either. And if you’re not maxing the monitor at peak brightness out in direct sunlight for hours on a hot summer day. I bet you can run the fans at low or even off for short periods. SDI is nice if your camera offers SDI out. It's 3G so it won't offer any major benefits over HDMI 1.4 other than the security you mention. In many ways the Portkeys is the more feature rich option. But the X series despite them being slightly thicker is more nimble on the camera. The protective sun hood is also nice for piece of mind during transport.

The legs folds over the head so it wouldn't save anything length wise. 00:40 When folded up it's 46cm/18" long - Hope this helps.

Mine came with shims in small plastic baggies. If you need to order some you should order from Blazarlens.com to make sure you got the guide pin and everything correctly located on those shims. Hope this helps.