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Cfexpress cards, at least type A (never worked with type B) heat up, never noticed the card reader getting hotter than my other card Cfexpress reader. But as most of these card readers act as a heat sink for the cards, it will obviously heat up to some degree base in the general size and the design of the card reader. This is quite different from SD cards. Regarding the transfer speed it will depend on the card, file size and computer and what type of USB port it's plugged in to. During my testing and I believe I mentioned this in the video (I cut it) that my computer at the time didn't have any fast usb-c ports so I wouldn't be able to guarantee that I'd be presenting the full potential in terms of transfer speed. But I'd say between 560-630/second

Nu har jag inte använt P5 Prox så kan bara höfta lite baserat på dess beskrivning. Men 1600 nit kan vara bra att ha, likaså om du använder mindre mickar på kameran för ljud och vill slippa flytta om dem pga eventuellt ljud från fläkten. Om det är viktiga faktorer så kanske den är ett bättre val än P6X som annars är lite nyare, lite tåligare och mindre klumpig.

@@thomasfransson tack 👍

Hoppas det var till någon hjälp, bara hojta till om du har fler frågor.

@@thomasfransson lugnt jag beställde en P5 prox så kan vi jämföra

I believe it's the adapter ring for the matte box you're thinking of? But it's similar looking to these ones that I use - ruclips.net/video/QWIa0wvKBsQ/видео.html

Haha glad I was able to! Enjoy

No, these are made with Canons official software for creating custom picture styles for cameras. And you use their software to load them on to your camera.

@ ah thanks

If size isn't the most important factor, then you'll be able to get more compression with the Tamron going all the way to 70mm vs 50mm on the Sigma.

Sounds like a great combo. I think you'd be very happy with the results you'd be able to get.

Sweet! I've also heard the Sniper and Nightwalkers are very similar optically. Sounds super clutch, especially when/if you want to film yourself. It's definitely a bit amusing how a lot of people think everything that isn't sharp and clinical is bad and worthless. I will definitely recommend these lenses and the Snipers to those who dare. Totally agree about the matte box. So nice to not have to lug around something larger. Keep it up!

What are the odds! Hope it was helpful and somewhat enjoyable. Let me know if I can be of any further help. The 16mm is a true nugget. I hope I can try the other ones soon.

If you flip your camera to shoot in portrait and you have the monitor mounted to your camera it will also be in portrait orientation and there’s no need to flip or rotate the image. Unless you want to keep the monitor in landscape mode and only get a tiny postage stamp sized image on the screen ;) Personally, when I shoot in portrait orientation I like to keep the monitor in the portrait and too. But as far as rotation and flipping goes you can flip the image Horizontally, vertically and Horizontally + vertically. But you can not show a portrait orientation on a horizontally mounted monitor. Let me know if you have more thoughts, I'm always happy to help. Cheers!

@@thomasfransson i have the Feelworld FW568 V3 monitor, and when i shoot in portrait mode, the live-view is in portrait mode (which is expected), however, once i take the photo, the preview of the photo is in landscape mode - it displays the portrait aspect ratio photo that i took but in landscape mode - the photo is made to fit the screen by height, rather than rotating it so that if fits the portrait orientation and uses the whole screen real estate. So then i manually have to change the orientation - this is not what i want of course, i want it to do this automatically - like my ipad or my iphone...

If you've extracted the files so you're trying to load files that ends with .pf3 and it won't let you ok/confirm it might not be supported by that camera model. Most of my videos on film simulations has a list in the description of user confirmed models.

Thank you, I have some LUT but they're still not 100% there on every point. In the meantime you could check out the phantom luts, I use those (for the fx6) a tonne. Both in camera/monitor while shooting, but also as a base for grading. They will make it so much easier to get your footage to where you want

Thank you, I believe it was just a standard S-Log3 Cine conversation LUT from Sony’s Pro website. That and brisk winter morning light.

@ thank you :)

If you’re used to shooting on slightly longer lenses It can feel a bit weird at first if you switch to a wide angle where you have to move in closer at times. But definitely worth exploring. How do you like the 35?

@ so far so good. Open wide is a challenge with focus, but I’m doing a lot better with it. The image from both is very similar in quality.

It offers image freeze but not the proprietary onion skin feature you see on smallhd monitors. So a whiteboard marker is probably the fastest workaround.

@@thomasfransson I see, first of all, thanks for the reply. So, the image freeze function, does it have transparency? I assume not.

Ah, ok. Still, not super surprising if there's some inconsistencies. Especially at this price point. Then again, even expensive modern photography lenses can have missmatching color rendering in the same lineup and between two identical lenses. But one obviously becomes more aware when its a kit where the lenses are more likely to be compared.

Thank you Gregory! And so nice to hear from you, I hope all is well on your end!

Hi Marco! Indeed, I was quite surprised myself. Quite sharp but not boring ;)

It's truly impressive, I love 35mm looking forward to hopefully try it out soon. And thank you for chiming in on the adapter, It's a super interesting feature that looks like it could add some insane value to these already affordable lenses.

True, that's always the dilemma. I don't have anything against full frame myself. But at this point it doesn't make financial sense for me to invest that amount of money into a full frame body and lenses to give me a similar choice of looks and flexibility as I currently have for aps-c. In my current situation it wouldn't mean that I'd be earning more money if I bought a full frame camera. And It wouldn't make my workflow easier either which otherwise could be a legitimate reason for investing in gear.

@thomasfransson hey, I just got a Tamron 17-70mm for my ZV E10, it's vibrating when I move the camera around, i can feel the vibrations, and can you tell what should I keep my steady shot settings to get the best output, currently my steady shot is at auto and off (should i keep it at standard or active)

Totally agree, Viltrox made a huge leap and they've pretty much caught up with other leading 3rd party manufacturers. Even with these more affordable lenses.

Haha! Thank you

Great to hear! For the G7X series there's another software for loading the files on your camera than EOS utility. I believe it’s called "picture style registration software "

​@@thomasfransson Do you know if the G5X mkII can be used with your recipes? Really good work

I believe so, there is a list in the description of the film sim videos with cameras that have been reported compatible by other users.

I've not gotten super great results with the Metabones Ultra in terms of AF on the FX30 either. But the mc-11 works great and totally worth getting if you have the 18-35 and planning on staying away from full frame ;)

I have no experience with that particular light, so the only thing I can think of is to make sure BT is on and maybe do a BT reset, it seems to be a feature on most devices. Hopefully it can be done in a similar fashion by just long pressing "the right button" once BT is selected. If that's not the case, I would reach out to Godox to verify that it’s not a problem with the product itself.

That's a crazy good price for the Sony as it normally retails for ~$1400 which is more than the new Sigma ff 24-70 MkII I've not used the Sony, just looked at comparisons where I felt like it didn't really live up to the steep price compared to the Sigma and Tamron in most regards. But if you can get it for $700 then it's definitely worth considering over the Tamron and Sigma, especially if you have a camera with Ibis as only the Tamron 17-70 offers lens stabilization.

If you're only using Sony cameras I think the Sony one would be the most pleasant one to use in the long run. There's also a newer updated Sony version. However, the screen on the universal model is quite satisfying. Then again, maybe not enough to pick it over something that's going to be easier to use?

@thomasfransson I'm using the a6700 in a static environment (for streaming). Even at 1080p I have overheating issues, that's why I'm looking into cooling options. So, essentially I'm just looking for the best performing system. Someone suggested SmallRig, someone else suggested Tilta. Do you know the specific name of the updated Sony one you've mentioned? They probably all work well, but if I'm spending money on something as essential as this cooling fan, I want the best possible product 🤔 I know you can't possibly have tested all options that are on the market, but still xD

If you go on smallrigs website and search for cooling fan you'll get three results, the Universal one in the video and the Sony only, along with a new third listing. I'm sure you can get the SKU number if you click on it. The one thing I liked with the temperature display is that you can gage the status and make sure the temperature isn't rising or anything. Especially when running and gunning where you might bumb the fan. But sounds like that won't be an issue in your case. And you probably won't be able to see the display anyway. But it's crazy how effective these things are. Just running it for a few seconds un attached and it got down to 12C and felt super cold. Obviously it regulates the amount of cooling when it's attached to prevent any internal condensation from forming up inside the camera. I'm not sure if the competing fans does that or not. But I like that feature.

Nice! It seems like a good price on that camera. Ask if they still have the memory card as you'll have to chase one down on ebay if there's not one included.

Thank you

Hi Vince, I've touched on this in this video - ruclips.net/video/SjymxdEwS5Y/видео.html And also some in this one - ruclips.net/video/ZZHd7NAZ0os/видео.html Personally I shoot everything in the default daylight white balance, even if I'm in a 100% tungsten or fluorescent lit train station or what have you. I treat the film simulations as daylight balanced film. And as I also mention in the two videos above, canon cameras has a yellowish tone to them. These simulations are not meant to mimic Canon colors and will therefore sometimes feel/look a bit "colder/neutral" than what you're used to. All the sims are also developed using the standard Canon daylight preset as it would present the most consistent results across a variety of camera models with varying degrees of adjusting WB. That said, if you like to change things up, feel free to do so, and I show a few examples in the top video. But I can't offer much more than that since I develop and shoot with these in daylight WB 99% of the time. When I shot social media content for a company I sometimes set the camera to tungsten as the color rendition of the products was important and I often shot in tungsten light for that client. But that's pretty much the only time I change WB as I'm going for that Daylight balanced look in all conditions and types of light. I have played around with the idea of using warming and cooling filters like you would when shooting with daylight or tungsten balanced film. And even looked into develop tungsten balanced sims. But as there's so many questions on white balance (which I can't offer much advice on since I well, you know ;) ) I've decided to not develop any of those and just keep sticking to standard daylight.

By unscrewing the exterior barrel you're not blocking as much light/casting shadows on your subject when shooting at minimum focus distance.

Nice!

I can't remember for sure, but I think the loop through signal is straight in and out in order to feed a directors monitor with a usable image even if the on camera monitor is using false colors or any other overlays/features. It's usually the case.

Two great options. Any particular features in these two that made them stand out?

@ it’s going to be my second monitor so I’ve been watching a ton of reviews on both and it’s hard to decide. My first monitor was an old Feelword F6. In a nutshell I just want an upgrade that won’t break the bank :) I watched your review on the Lilmon 5 too and now I can’t decide

Both will be a significant upgrade from the F6 Plus

It was released two weeks ago so I'm guessing it will take time before it hits more outlets. But they are made and shipped from within EU, so ordering via their website is easy and you won't run into any additional fees since it's within EU.

What are you priorities, the Tamron can do more but comes with a slightly higher price tag and isn't as compact as the Sigma.

Haha I learned a lesson there 😅🤣

That's odd, it seems to be working on other people's ZV-E10 cameras. Hope you'll enjoy the Sigma.

Enjoy my friend

@@thomasfransson Is there a way I can apply this filter to my other photo that is not taken with the filter?

Yes sir, if you install Canons RAW editing program. I belive it's called Digital Professional you will be able to add the the picture styles to your RAW photos afterwards.

That's might do the trick, there's also tiny swan necks with a clip that goes into/clips to the edge of the sound hole in the pick guard area that might be worth looking at also before pulling the trigger.

I can't remember any options to turn the screen off, it's more likely that your screen might be broken I'm afraid. But I hope I'm wrong.

Most cameras that can shoot 4K will let you set HDMI output to 1920x1080 while recording 4K internally. 1920x1080 is also the standard screen resolution for there types of monitors, be it the $5540 Arri CCM-1 monitor or an affordable $250 monitor and 99% of them only supports 4K 30fps. Even that CCM-1 for over $5000.

True, you never know ;) Thanks for stopping by!

That's a great bargain

That could be a great compact option for sure. 1000 nits will probably be enough.

@@thomasfranssonyeah I went with the dx2 and if I don’t like it I’ll make the switch. I wanna see if the 6in feels good on my rig

6" is definitely a great idea. Love having that extra bit of screen.

Thank you Kelvin, much appreciated! I take it you're from the "next village" ;) Interesting about the Pentax K200, I love Pentax old glass and use it a lot, even bought a Pentax point and shoot (135) the other day. But never thought about their old dslrs. I will check ebay now. 😀

and I'm serious about a 350D PostNord fanboy delivery especially after ripping you off on gumroad :) Maybe you can use it for IR conversion.

@@thomasfransson my first reply seems to have been flagged or something, IDK, there were no links in it, was just naming some recommended Pentax web resources and tradera instead of ebay

Thanks, I have a decent grasp on the Pentax sites and forums. I also shoot all pentax slrs ;) No problem give that camera to someone just starting out, I have enough already ;) But thank you for your generosity my friend

@@thomasfransson likewise, autumn is extra GOLDEN now, through your CROWDAK

Awesome! Cheers my Fujibrother!

It's the Blazar Remus 45mm. A 1.5x anamorphic