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These 4 cylinders 5speed don’t die I have a 1989 ford ranger 2.3l 5 speed over 500k miles had it for 18 years still running great

Wish I could get a Ford Ranger like this. Wanted one, however ended up with a Chevy Silverado. I much prefer Ford cars and trucks, especally Ford Ranger trucks. Small trucks are more my speed.

that black stuff was just radiator stop-leak product working as intended

Hey Rob --- I've been watching just haven't been commenting on some of my fav YTers lately. This Is just the Video I needed for my 2002 Ranger. Think the flex hose is leaking over the rear Diff. My quick fix was puttin a nail in the line fitting out of the master Cylinder. lol Don't drive much. I been looking at Eastwoods flaring tool similar to yours & using copper-nickel flex line. Couldn't get a box of Various couplings at the auto parts store. My only vehicle so if its down a while can't get to the parts store. lol What BRAND is your Flaring tool you bought? I'm in a Dilema. I don't use Amazon or Rock Auto. Use E-bay & Parts Store. I have to have ALL Parts ready to go to get it done in an afternoon. Keep Pushin On I'm still with you.

wow 4 years it doesnt seem that long ago we loaded that sucker up . i look foward to your vid updates cant wait to see it finished

I'll repeat what @Bugeye23 said. "All the reasons you mentioned of why you chose the Midget were all the reasons I bought my Austin Healey Bugeye." I'm restoring a 1958.Bugeye on my channel.

Great work Rob. Your story is very similar to mine with regards to the learning as you go! That's why I started welding on the floors! Love the RRG shirt by the way.

All the reasons you mentioned of why you chose the Midget were all the reasons I bought my Austin Healey Bugeye.

Hey Rob, I'm really enjoying watching your videos from over here in the UK. You're doing a great job. Can't believe your skills for a first restoration! These little cars have bags of character and are a hoot to drive. Keep the faith brother 👏 Richard

Rob, I had the same problem with a quarter panel on a Monty Carlo, I used heat , pounded out the low spot proud then layed a wet rag over the spot to shrink the metal to stiffened it. That worked in my situation. Same concept I guess. It definitely takes patience, as you know but you'll be driving it by summer! Keep at it!

Good work Rob. Another great video. Like you I got into this with zero experience. I’m a couple of years behind you and my videos aren’t as professional as yours but my skills are developing slowly with the help of your videos. Thank you.

There’s light at the end of the tunnel in regards to panel work… Getting paint on the midget will be a huge moral booster 👍 keep up the good work 👍👍

just checking on ya my friend hope yall didnt much damage from the hurricane

Hey Rob, where did you order the tank from?

Really glad to see another video on the midget. Watching your videos gave me the confidence to tackle the restoration on my own midget. Unfortunately being a UK car its turned out to be much worse than I thought. But I'll take it slowly and learn as I go. Can't wait to see more updates and progress on your project.

Had this exact issue in my identical 1993 white Miata. Turns out, if you don't care about the airbag, there is a simple fix. Unplug the connectors from the airbag control module, pull the plastic inserts out of the connectors on the car side (this allows some pins to short together), and no airbag light comes on, no trouble codes reported. I did that many years ago now, and I did actually pull my old module out which was painful to say the least. I opened it up, and it did have the normal problem for them of the electrolytic capacitors leaking all over the board. I tried replacing the caps, but the board was fried already at that point. I have a replacement Ford module out of a '93 Mustang that I will be trying out this weekend to see if that fixes the issue. It is the version that has the battery built in, so no need for the second blue box that is needed for the stock module. Lots of places have said it works perfectly that way, we shall see.

Rob, thanks for the update! Thought you might have given up on the Midget! I have the same problem. My Midget has been up on blocks since October 2023 ! Started with the whole brake system rebuild then noticed the clutch master and slave cylinders leaking. Started working on that also. Got all the new parts, but not the time! Still haven't got back to putting it together because of being pulled away with other time sensitive priorities that were going to snow ball this year!

awesome progress on the midget im excited to see you get it on the road again

Really pleased to see more work on the midget 👍 keep up the good work, very much looking forward to seeing more progress.

Glad to see you back working on the Midget! Learn as you go is probably the best way to learn!

Great to see more content! I used several cans of the Eastwood Chassis Paint in satin black on my Austin Healey Bugeye. It’s the best paint in my opinion. I painted some undercarriage and steering and suspension components.

just keep chipping at it. I started restoring my Midget in 2007, Body work and mechanicals all done, but still in primer. I've been driving it like this for the last 5 years. I really need to finish the paint and put all the chrome back on.

Well, well, a blast from the past. Good to see you back on task. Block sanding; you gotta love it.

I just binge watched every episode. Great job with the welding! It must have been a nice feeling to put it all back together. Can’t wait to see it painted! My personal two favorite Midget colors is that mustard yellow and white. 👍

So if it works correctly the air bag light shouldn’t be illuminated at all even when u just open the ignition like the other lights ? Or is it supposed to to turn on temporarily

its looking good im excited to see it finished

Great help. I have a 1963 Midget that I am just starting on. It has been stripped down to the body. Need to build a rotisserie. Can one be built from wood ?

I have a 1993 Miata. The air bag just started flashing on and off when I drove it home from being detailed yesterday. Any suggestions. I live in Cincinnati area and would love to reach you directly if possible. Thank you.

Glad to see you back at. I'm with you about the the Cold. I've got a wood stove with a fan blowing on it. Ok for 30 degree days. Cluster & other projects slowing my motivation. Warmer days ahead lol Take your time now. You're working on the *Eye Catching* stuff that will show up after painting. You're Almost There. "Keep Pushin' On"

I cannot stand using Bondo. A friend of mine did a restoration on a Shelby KR 500. Just body tools. When he was done the body was perfect. Perfect body lines and gaps. He wanted to paint it and we all said no. He then clear coated it to show the exquisite body work

Thank you for your efforts to update us. I have wondered how your project was going. Looking good! (This *IS* the Bondo sculpting phase, after all...)

i gotta say using that dustless sanding block is like cheating. Where's the fun in that? i want to see you completely covered in dust.

Great to see you back on RUclips with the midget 👍 v-much enjoyed the video, keep up the good work.

Thanks so much for this! I have a White 93 NA as well and recently I've had a three blink code that turned into a four blink code and I'm worried it's going to blow a fuse. Do you have any suggestions? Looks like an s-sensor from what I've seen online but I'm not sure if I should buy a whole new module or what not. Thank you!

Hello need your favour please I m looking for front & back mudguards of this bike.

I have a white 93 NA, I'm the original owner. Kept it in the garage all this time. Mine has power steering and it's automatic. I just put a Cat Back exhaust in it along with a front grill and front air dam, some mud flaps and door sills. It sounds real sweet! I have the air bag issue as well. Took it into Mazada for a dignostic check several years ago. They no longer make that module and they set my car so the air bag light no longer blinks. Enjoy your Miata!

Is it point or converted into cdi?

Happy Birthday Mr. Rob. Glad to be a part of this restoration journey

Rob You have a lot of patience I watched videos from 2 years ago You documented the build perfectly

Did you order the seals through honda?

im having the same issue with mt 1988 Ford Ranger, it has been sitting for a few months without starting, thanks for giving me some great ideas to work with.

the chrome just kinda dissapeared off the front in the middle of the video. did you just drill out the rivets to remove it?

Amazing progress in 2 years Rob. I'm still tearing down this body shell I bought and revisiting your episodes for advice and inspiration. Since mine had 3 floors (the rusty original sandwiched between 2 sheets of steel) almost all potential datum points had been melted along with 60% of the flanges. Currently the entire floor is out along with all of the rear bulkhead, the drivers side sills and the outer and front footwell panels. I braced the thing but I'm now pretty sure it was twisted before. When I dry fit the outer footwell panel and inner sill and position them at a right angle and lined up with the A post tab (which as you found is a slow job to drill all the spot welds out) the jacking point is out by the best part of an inch, and if I use the jacking point as a datum and line everything up correctly the sill sticks out a half inch in front of where the front footwell panel should be! I'm now considering fitting a complete rear bulkhead to the back end of the car, dry fitting a whole floor to it and hoping it gives me reliable datum points to square everything up. Of course it may just fall apart if I have to remove the bracing bars! Ah well nothing ventured nothing gained and as you say gotta love the journey! Iain

Mr.Rob, nice to meet you. It was very helpful. thank you. I'm looking forward to the completion of MIDGET's restoration. I'm running MIDGET1500 in Japan. I'm always repairing some part. I will use this as a reference in the future. So you'll excuse me.

Great update Rob. Glad to see you're making some solid progress!

Since you have that door pretty level, consider a rubber sanding block, it'll be faster removing filler,and will give a better 'hand feel's for the high and low spots.120 or 150 grit when you're close then, hit it with primer, re-sand with a higher grit. that Bondo shrinks, LIGHT COAT application of glazing puddy too thick will cause paint to eventually crack cause it's thick primer. We used to call it, 'red lead glaze'. Doin a great job Bud !

Rob, That old 'bonnet'? ....tie a rope on the latch and use it for sled riding in the snow! Oh, yinz guys don't get snow like we get in PA. Lol

there will allways be a market for these little trucks.when maintained from the begining.they will run damn near forever.& parts are still widely available.& as simple as it gets mechanically.seen several with near 300k miles.usually highway commuter 2 wheel drives with 2.3 5 speeds.ford did their homework well on these.

This project is definitely worth the time, just hoping you don't lose interest in it, I did see the video on getting sand blasted and primered recently, so its now two weeks before Thanksgiving 2023 as I watch this. Should have that Midget on the road come Spring 2024 .... right! Lol Try to remember where all the nuts n' bolts are, and don't force the finish. Ya got too many man hours to rush to completion! Love the tenacity!

Yes a Rasp Is A Good Tool to remove filler at the start. Beside my Paint lab Experience, I have 10 yrs + in a Drop Forge as a QC Supervisor. HEARING isn't Emphasized enough on YT. Sound might not seem Loud enough to hurt your ears now -- It's The Long Term Effect -- When You Can't Hear what your Wife & Grandkids say to you when you turn 60+