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Ha ha, cheers buddy.

Thank you very much. Cheers.

Hiya buddy. Not sure but I do know that if there is a lot of interest it will spark his interest. I will drop him a message and tell him people are asking about the wax. Keep an eye on the HBS Facebook page as he communicates most his work on that. Cheers

Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. It's a very nice coating and I do agree about the smell. Cheers.

Thanks buddy. It was hard but rewarding work. The final finish makes the graft worth it. Cheers.

Thanks buddy. More DIY reviews coming soon. Cheers.

Cheers and thanks for watching. I plan to review more of their coatings as this 1 was a pleasure to apply.

I know, it was a struggle not having the big guns helping lol.

Thanks buddy. I used Zvizzer Medium compound with a medium thermo pad. I then did the second pass with their Fine combination.

I am undecided on the merits of graphene if I am honest. Putting that aside, this is a lovely coating. I will monitor for longevity and see if the coating is less susceptible to water points. Cheers again.

Thank you Bri.

Cheers buddy.

Thanks for watching. I was really happy with this coating.

All noted. Cheers buddy.

Thanks buddy.

I always await your replies. To assist in others reading your messages, can you elaborate. It would be wrong for me to assess your thoughts. Thanks.

@@thecarboutique2467 yeah 3-4 weeks didn’t sound right & when looked on there page this what they said … “For newly installed car coatings, we recommend you wait 1 to 2 weeks before doing a general wash to allow your coating to fully cure to a maximum level”

I think GT gave a slightly better finish but not much in it if I'm honest.

@@thecarboutique2467 Amazing thank you

Hiya buddy. No to remove initially I tend to use a 300/320 GSM cloth. I then follow up with a high GSM cloth for the final buff.

@@thecarboutique2467 thanks. Every video is school day for me. Much appreciated

Thanks for watching buddy. I would highly recommend applying Cure before taking the vehicle out. This will provide protection for your Pure coating. Cure can then be applied anytime in the future to give additional protection and extend the life of your Pure base coating. Cheers..

Thanks for watching. Hopefully they will become available in the UK soon.

Thank you very much. The old videos are a bit amateur but we had to start somewhere. Detailing is a journey not a destination so we are looking forward to the future. Thanks again for watching and leaving a comment.

Cheers buddy. See you at Waxstock.

Thanks for watching. A valid observation. Our water is moderate but I will test it again now you have asked the question. The marks on the plastic are too severe for hard water and I have used similar products with no such issues. A lot of questions have come from this review so we are going to retest in August. I will post the video and hopefully we can answer some questions people have been asking. Cheers again.

Thanks for watching. I really hope somebody starts selling in the UK as I think this brand will do well. Cheers for leaving a comment.

Cheers for watching. Is there a specific wax you would like us to review as we are always looking for recommendations. Thanks.

Thank you. We cannot wait to machine polish this car next time. It will come up like glass.

Hiya and thanks for watching. I will reach out to Soft99 and see if they would like us to review their waxes.

What do you mean, iron fallout after waxing?

Hiya and thank you for watching the video. Like you, a lot of people will use Fallout remover after the contact wash phase. Indeed I use to do the same thing. The reason why I use the Fallout remover before the contact phase is that not all the iron contamination will be embedded within the clear coat. A lot of the fallout will actually be in the road film that is left behind after your pre-wash phase so then progressing to the contact wash runs the risk of you forcing this iron contamination into the clear coat. For this reason I will apply the fallout remover before the contact phase to avoid this issue. I do however see merit in applying Fallout remover after the contact phase as well as it goes without saying that some of the iron with now be exposed with the road grime removed and the Fallour remover will have more access to this contamination. Alas we all have our own way of cleaning a car so this is just my method and a method used by a lot of professional detailers that I work with. Thanks again for watching the video and leaving a comment.

Cheers buddy. Good to be back testing waxes lol.

The hooks are nothing to do with me buddy. They are for cranes and put on the racking to dry. I am a senior engineering manager myself.

@@thecarboutique2467 ohhh I see. Well that sounds a world away from detailing!

@@TruckerMatty93 A bit. There is actually a lot of cross over in terms of mechanics and physics. I have been detailing cars for over 25 years so it is a passion that never ceases. I find that most detailers also have an interest in engineering so it is common to find many engineers that enjoy detailing and a passion for cars.

@@thecarboutique2467 Just a hobby for me too, not as experienced as most but hey ho. I'm a lorry driver. Definitely doesn't cross over to detailing 😂

Ceramic coatings do have their place in the detailing industry but I totally agree that waxes are more enjoyable from a user experience. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. Cheers. Out of interest are there any waxes you would like us to do a video review on?

​@@thecarboutique2467I like to try and get UK made stuff. Read good things about Neowax No1. Not got any. Have used Infinity Wax Primo (great wax), now trying a few Mitchell and King ones. Have used original Fusso, not as nice an experience, reserving for wheel barrels now.

Agree buddy. Much fun was had on this 1.

Greetings buddy. Another video for you to watch lol.

Cheers buddy. We are getting the car back shortly so we can see the water behaviour after the coating has fully hardened.

Gyeon Mohs is a great coating it has to be said. The fun part is always looking for the next product. Cheers.

Thanks buddy. I am planning to purchase some Kamikaze products at Waxstock as it is a brand I wish to explore further. Regarding the hydrophobics of this coating, we are monitoring over the next weeks as the coating fully hardens. Thanks again for watching and leaving a comment.

Hiya buddy. Thanks for watching. I will monitor the water behaviour over the next few weeks as the coating fully hardens. Cheers

Thanks for watching buddy and I hope so.

It's a great look lol.

Thanks buddy for watching and leaving a comment. Every car has a story to tell lol.

Hiya buddy. Thank you for watching and leaving a comment. I have seen a few people use Iron Remover with a Clay Cloth but I do have reservations. Iron Remover is intended to target the corrosion formed around Iron to the point that they reduce in size and can be removed usually via pressure washer force. I have reservations that using a clay cloth runs the risk of dragging that Iron across the paint surface and causing marring. Happy to discuss further buddy.

@@thecarboutique2467 really good point. Never thought of it that way. May have to ask DIY what their thoughts regarding that are. Thanks

@@pigeonpoo1823 Cheers. Get back to me what they say. We all do things differently so I am always happy to hear other peoples process and opinions.

@@thecarboutique2467 this could end up creating more questions than it answers. They responded to a similar q with the answer 'perforated clay towels use a polymer and have space for the contamination to go'. In a recent DIY Detail (2 weeks ago) video called 'this doesn't make sense. Misleading terms' the first 6mins are dedicated to this topic. Worth a watch. Is there a right or wrong way? Perhaps, for an enthusiast, saving 20mins isn't worth combining the steps. For a business it may well be worth it. There we go.. absolutely no closer to the answer than when we started. 🤣

@@pigeonpoo1823 Hiya buddy. An interesting response and I do see what they are saying. From a purist point of view however, why use fallout to clay with when it is not designed to do that. Clay lube and shampoo for example are designed to be lubricated and as such are designed for contact phases. Irrespective as to whether your clay media is perforated and has the potential to allow abrasive contaminants to move into the perforations away from the clear coat surface, why use a product that is not designed to add lubricity. I cannot see any plausible argument to use fallout remover apart from it targets iron contamination. I agree from a business point of view where time is money that claying and fallout removing at the same time makes theoretical sense, but from an enthusiast perspective where I am not confined to the restrictions of 'time', then taking the safer option is a must for me. An interesting discussion this it has to be said. Lastly and to add mitigation to the claying with fallout argument, you generally are polishing after clay so does the potential micro scratches induced by this method really matter........

Thanks very much for maintenance advice as it was lacking in the site. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watching. Confidence is now high buddy.

Thanks for the info on maintenance washes. Also thanks for the information about hydrophobicity once the coating cures fully. Look forward to car again to test again 😁

Maybe they updated it or there were bad batches, but this and their wheel coating sucked for me when I applied it 2 years ago.

@@KarlHampson-TCB Great video. How long did you wait before doing water test?

Thanks buddy. We are going to get the car back in 1 month to see if the hydrophobicity improves after the coating has fully hardened. We will monitor the coating and return to it formally in 1 year to see how it is standing up. Thanks for watching.

Defintaley 1 of my favourite coatings so far. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. Cheers

Same buddy. I am worried about your questions lol

Koch Chemie is a very strong brand. Thanks for watching the video and leaving a comment.

Thanks for watching.