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@@scw1968 Cheers mate the catch cane are just cheapies from ebay I did buy a so called high quality one for the Territory Turbo after rebuilding the engine but to be frank it was wank. The ones I use are a copy of some Japanese version which are much more expensive. If you can’t find what you are looking for let me know I’m Working tomorrow but should be able to find the link if you can’t. Expect to pay about $30. Cheers

@@Gokizzmass LOL I have full comprehensive insurance and roadside assistance a spare fuel pump o2 sensor a million zip ties crimps and all fingers crossed Cheers mate

@@BluesShed a spare ecu ? just kidding, enjoy your drive.

Understood on Alice I lived there for 2 years and FIFO over another 3. Resto Country I think in Melbourne is where I get the clips for the wiper arms be careful if you need to remove one after you fit it this was a new one that broke Cheers mate

Much appreciated mate cheers

Cheers mate hopefully it’s a cure

Thanks for Being part of the journey and all of your input mate it’s been great. I hope you stick around for the Ute Cheers mate

@@TheCowPastureGarage cheers mate

@@radioaustralia5070 Flame I think Sean ordered it from the code on the data plate it looks much deeper in two pack compared to the original enamel

@@Gokizzmass cheers mate I clearly missed it

@@BluesShed I tried a few single plane manifolds years ago, as well as a dual plane performer, i found the best performance for my street fairlane was actually using the standard ford 4bbl spreadbore manifold with a 1" spacer ( i had a modified quadrajet carb on it). The air gap is the go these days i'm told though.

@@Gokizzmass the low and mid range is way stronger now and its light compared to the cast iron original Im looking at CHI 2Vs with the airgap combination for the ute staying 302 on that one dont laugh I want to keep it 302 and go for multi point efi this time

@@BluesShed you might be wasting money getting those heads on a 302, you can get 400hp out of the stock heads with an exhaust port cleanup and 4v exhaust valves. I'd be keen to see how you set up the multipoint though, it was something i considered seriously instead of a sniper or fast efi. I have an au xr8 that is pretty angry & runs the stock computer with a quarterhorse plug in board to store the tune. Also have the software - binary edit to play with it. maybe you could use something like this ? There's plenty of info around on these.

@@Gokizzmass Cheers mate, I’m not chasing big HP with the 302 just efficiency and some Aussie nostalgia the 302 Cleveland is unique to OZ and all my mate are taking the piss out of me for planning this but I can always pull it back out and stroke if it goes to poo. There is a great article I found sorry I don’t have the link on the scavenging efficiency of the 302 because of the longer push rods over the 351 also back in the day a lot of builders put 302 rods into 351s with ACL pistons that had the gudgeon pin 1/2 an inch higher in the piston to grab more power. The heads are more for the weight reduction and the fact that they are Australian Cheers mate

www.ebay.com.au/itm/256509941654?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=tfoy0Q3VTw6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=wDBvBEQkT9S&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

www.ebay.com.au/itm/373569479310?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=TahesdJIS4i&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=wDBvBEQkT9S&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

See the EBay links mate

@@BluesShed Thanks pal.

The fast has been pretty easy to live with we have enough confidence in the system that we are driving the car to Alice Springs for the centre nats

Cheers mate much appreciated 👍

LOL there is rubber bumpers on the posts mate no damage so far and I think that any hoist that you may but will have them fitted as standard. 2 things to think about the depth of you concrete must be 150MM I would drill first to find out the slab in my shed was supposed to be 150mm but wasn’t close we had 300mm deep reo’ed footings fitted 800mm x 800mm prior to installation. Also mine in a pain in the arse to use because it doesn’t automatically disengage the stay locks when it’s fully down so you have to manually release them to swing the arms into place. We intend to move house within 2 years and I’ll be installing a 4 post as well as a 2 post. The new 4 post come with cradles that slide the length of the hoist and have hydraulic lift so you can lift the front or rear of the car off its wheels on the hoist. Cheers Blue

@@BluesShed I must've missed the rubbers on the posts. Definitely need those. Even if they don't come with them, I'll add something anyway. Regarding the slab. I made sure to tell the concreter to allow for the lift posts. So, my slab had to be over engineered because there's a sewer line which runs diagonally across, so after it was concrete encased (10K down the hole later), the slab engineer called for piers and trench beams 300mm wide and minimum 400 deep. It's deeper on the left side for Bay 1 though. So there's the one around the perimeter, one across the middle for the long side and two across the short side which in effect made 6 even squares. I planned to pitch the hoist columns over the middle of the trench to the far left (Bay 1), the trench is around 600 deep but what I did was excavate around where the posts will be around 1 square metre over the trench, 100mm below what is a 150mm slab. So in essence they will have between 200 to 250mm of thickness beyond the trench to help take the loading better and also beefed up the steel reo too. I did consider a four post lift initially, but it will take too much space, so a 2 post it will have to be. My shed is 15.3m across, 9m deep and 3.6 wall height. I'm lucky to have a 1/4 acre block in Western Sydney where it fits nicely at the back. I had some resistance from Council, but they ended up approving it as a D.A. That took 7 months. I'm almost finished putting the skeleton together. That took 5 and a half days and 90% done, then I move on to insulation, sheeting, roller doors, and the rest of the fit out. I'm getting there buddy. It's been a rough journey to say the least and It's all me. I have a young Son who's 10.5 years old and he's not physically able to do the hard yakka stuff, but he has helped me measuring etc and putting down the base plates. Bless his heart. He tries to help but I know his limitations so I don't push him. If he was a few more years older he definitely would've come in handy. Nobody else offered to help, so I'm a one man band instead. Doing the work of three men. It's funny when there's work to be done, everybody is always busy... What an era we live in hey ?? Cheers mate.

G’day mate, All ford T5’s pretty much the same internals some differences over the years like a reverse synchro were fitted yours will have one the one in the GXL doesn’t. My gearbox cross member is modified to adapt to the T5 the guy I bought it off cut the mount point of one cross member and welded into another. If you have a look at the very first video there might be a shot of it that you can pause and get a look. That said the XC Ute currently under build is also getting a T5 and this time I have bought a kit from Dellow which has an adapter plate that looks like you bolt in I haven’t had a chance to get into it yet. You will have to cut out some more of the Turret to fit the T5 selector into the car. As for the input shaft they may have been different for the Windsor over the E/Barra but I’m not sure I know they fitted steel input shaft housings to mustangs in the states I was looking to fit one to reduce clutch bearing drag but went away from that idea and fitted a Mal Wood hydraulic throw bearing instead sorry I can’t remember which part of the series that’s in. I hope that helps, Cheers Blue

@@BluesShed Yeah the XR8 box input shaft is about 30 mm longer and the shifter is further back than the 6 position as well. It actually putsthe gearstick in a good posotion for me, but the console will be a big problem i think. i got the dellow adaptor plate & rear gearbox extension adaptor plate, i think mine is to be welded on the back of the X member. How have these 6 cylinder boxes held up behind the V8, broken one yet ?

@@BluesShed I bought a single rail at the same time ( about 10 years ago) but i have my doubts about whether it will hold up behind a warm Cleveland. At least it bolts straight up though !

@@Gokizzmass Mate I bought mine second hand in 2003 with the bell housing and mount from a gearbox repairer in St Mary’s He had it in an XD 6 cylinder. I have done numerous fun and safety days in Cairns with the car up till 2013 when I stared the rebuild NO Probs behind the 351 and don’t forget that the T5 were fitted to the BA XR6T. I can’t remember which parts I covered the rebuild of the T5 in but I go through the how to strengthen the T5 with the Billet cluster retaining plate. Look up Eric the Car guy on youtube he does a blow by blow on how to rebuild the T5 with the bloke who literally wrote the book and came up with the mod to strengthen the T5. Yours has the same internals as all ford T5s the chev versions had slip bearing’s in the early days apparently don’t quote me. If you’re not going over 400 Hp and dragging it as long as it’s internally good I see no probs. Also look at Carnage Turbo AU that that flogged down the strip numerous time with a stock T5 of unknown condition which didn’t break. I hope this helps and be ware of getting advice from anyone who hasn’t actually done the job themselves Cheers Blue

@@BluesShed Cheers Blue, i think you're referring to World Class & non- World Class models. The Oz fords were all the former from what I've read with the tapered roller bearing on the input shaft being the main noticeable difference. Thanks for the tips.

Cheers mate the issue was the new speedo cable that I fitted it wouldn’t insert into the speedo drive itself. I ended up pulling the core out of the cable and filing down the square drive to fit into the speedo on the bench. The car has 7K on it now and the speedo is 3 percent low, I changed the drive cog to suit the new wheels which are 15 inch up from the 14 inch in the videos Thanks for your input Blue

Sorry for not being accurate here but I found a supplier in Adelaide for the last batch I bought and all aviation supplies usually carry it aka Spuce aviation I recommend that you google it That said there is a better 3M 2 part resin that I have used at work on plastics Sorry again I can't remember exactly it's name but give me a couple of weeks and I'll try to get it to you Cheers for your input Blue

Cheers mate do you have a part number ?

@@BluesShed pretty sure its this: MP0023 Universal Moulding Clip Kit 5/8" x 5/8" there's a pic on the web site, they have a square base and an X for the spring.

Cheers mate I’m going into rare spares today I’ll have a look

@@BluesShed How'd you go with the spring clips Blue ? Also, if you're on Ford Forums, you can see my rusty XC build, "77 Pine-N-Lime XC GXL Rebuild" if you're interested.

@Gokizzmass sorry mate got side tracked with my new lincoln welding it doesn't pass gas in Tig mode so interesting discussion at Sydney tools the other and I didn't get to rare spares The GXL is at Sean's my painter atm in prep for centre Nats so I won't get back into the big smoke for a while now I need to get in there to buy 2 more single power window switches When is a car Finnished NEVER Flick me the link I'd love to have a look Cheers Blue

I'd have to sit down and work it out but 60 would be about right

I think as far as the videos go mate 2 to 3 more We are pretty happy with how she is going ATM. We took it back to the panel beaters 2 day ago to assess requirement’s for the 2024 centre Nats and Sean has decided to repaint the bonnet as some flaws are apparent he will also apply a ceramic coat to reduce the inevitable stone chips driving the thing to Alice Springs Be good mate Cheers Blue

@@BluesShed Hey Blue. I have some detailing experience and I can say that ceramic coating doesn't prevent stone chipping. It's more a coating to protect from atmospheric fallout and other chemical contamination. The best stone prevention is stuff called PPF. Get a layer of that put across the front and you'll get no stone chips buddy.

@tonymontana897 Cheers mate I'll talk to Sean about it

LOL cheers mate

This style of bearing was fitted to BA falcons and on. The T5 has an alloy input shaft extension housing and using the original clutch throw arrangement from the single rail the throw bearing would did into the housing and I couldn’t achieve a decent clutch separation without having constant pressure not the bearing which meant that it was always spinning and causing wear to the clutch fingers. The new set up eliminated the issues. There are several suppliers out there but I went with Mal Wood in this case and will again for the Ute which I have already purchased a T5 set-up for I hope that helps

@@BluesShed That is amazing. I never knew that. Thanks for taking the time to explain good Sir. Much appreciated Blue.

G’day Tony Close it’s VF-400F 1983. I did a rebuild on it 12 years ago it still goes great rode it to gunning not long ago and my son inlaw rode the VF1000 which has to come back off the road because of the fuel tank and front forks. It never ends. I restored a couple of VT250s back in the day to make a bit of money and would like to add one to the collection one day. But for now it’s finish the GXL series and full on with the XC Ute Cheers Blue

@@BluesShed Oh ok. I thought it was something close. The video footage doesn't reveal it clearly enough. Cool bikes the VF's. Love the vintage Honda line up in fact, my first bike was an '83 Honda VT250FII. I purchased an FII and a normal F, both early 80's around 10 years (both in storage ATM) and will hopefully restore the F bike and convert it to the Super Sport model for the added niceties such as the side air intake cowls and belly pan cowling. I have a pair of N.O.S. Honda side air intakes with hardware, but I cannot for the life of me seem to land that elusive belly pan cowl for the Super Sport. Been collecting parts for around 10 years now and have amassed a nice collection of other N.O.S. parts. Would also love to refresh the engine if it's not a major job too. That V Twin has some decent power when put together right and tuned. The carbs on those are bit of a nightmare to work with too. You'll probably know what I mean. Would love to see a video on those old girls, if you ever decide to do a motorcycle edition feature on your channel, I'd appreciate it for sure. I could talk for hours on the subject lol.. Anyways, cheers the info Blue.

@@tonymontana897 I reckon we could talk for hours about the VFs after I finish the Ute and retire I’ll get into the bikes full on. I really want the whole set 250, 400, 500, 750 & 1000, Cheers mate

@@BluesShed I love the bikes as much as cars, but I have more of a soft spot for the bikes. They're much easier to work on and maintain too lol.. I hope you start doing a few bike videos too. Peter Anderson's bike resto videos were amazing and was hoping he'd start doing a few more. Prices are going crazy on the 70's vintage stuff.

Cheers mate all the best with the XB

Thanks again for all your input amazingly we really haven't had much in the way of criticism so all good. I think that it reflects on who is actually watching in that there is genuine interest in the project. That's why I watch others doing the same thing. Your right sharing what we have learnt is an important part of keeping these old girls alive Cheers Blue

Yeah mate its a XC GS 302 Ute and has progressed somewhat since the footage in part 26 Cheers

Mate much appreciated 👍

G'day Russell amazingly the flasher still works as new Cheers for your comments we are getting there with the build

Cheers mate much appreciated 👍

Awesome mate the whole idea of putting up these videos is to share what I know which will help others keep them on the road 👍

POR 15 I've heard of it and will check it out As for the colour I need to look at the data plate but I think it's red flame Now in 2 pack and it's much deeper than the original paint The earlier parts of the videos have it in the original acrylic paint Cheers for your input Blue

Cheers mate much appreciated all the best for Easter and family

Cheers mate I'm trying to shorten down my videos without missing key information. Probably get another one up in a couple of days with the airborne refitted Thanks for your reply Cheers Blue

Cheers mate we are getting there with the video series 👍

Cheers mate

Cheers mate I have since bought a kingcrome plastic welding kit and a plastic stapling welder ebay about $20 The kingcrome kit came with very fine steel mesh similar to what you are using and using the welder you can literally melt in the mesh into the plastic across a crack and it works like Rio in concrete I reckon I'm a year off these type of repairs on the XC Ute doing welding ATM I'm getting a spit roast for the Ute it's a massive job and when I finish the GXL series I'll get on with the Ute In other news the GXL is registered for the Centre Nats in Alice Springs We are going to drive it there Very cool Thanks for watching and your input Cheers Blue

Cheers mate 👍

Cheers mate much appreciated

Cheers mate much appreciated I'm trying to get the videos out as fast as possible it will be a month before the next part life gets in the way Thanks again Blue

For real that's awesome

Cheers mate much appreciated I think it will be a more interesting watch from here

Yep it takes time mods are rarely just bolt in Cheers Blue

Cheers mate 👍 Turns out that old felpro is somewhat of a hybrid material and the sump being aftermarket probably doesn't have the rigidity on the oem and bends a bit Thanks for your input 👍 much appreciated Cheers Blue

Cheers mate sometimes I can’t see the forest for the trees Thanks for your comment

@@BluesShed all good mate sometimes ya just need an extra pair of eyes

Great care was taken