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What do you mean?

First of all don't put too much paste (i over did it a little) But with and QFN with an e-pad (ground pad on the bottom you ill never know unless you have x-ray machine. How ever you can check every pin with GND. To see if there is continuity. And fixing it, I would start over.

Well... it is easier than it looks. But thanks for the compliment!

There are some links in the description. But if you search on AliExpress for"Haptic Feedback Motor" you will find loads. But I recommend the affiliate links 😛

Exectly, that is why I show how to do it with an Arduino Nano! 😅

I hope it works for you. Just to help you... there are better ways then this, but this is a good start! Good luck!

@@DustinWatts thank you Dustin. You won't believe what happened. There was no footprint drawing at the end of the datasheet. So I checked Analog Devices TDFN-10 Package. I made the PCB footprint: pitch was 0.4mm I got the PCB. I saw it'll be tight. Very tight. I didn't fit. I lost my mind, didn't know where I made the mistake. I printed the Footprint 1:1 scale on paper. I was Bigger than my footprint. Then I went back to the datasheet. There was a link around the middle to the technical drawing of the footprint with....0.5mm pitch and bigger pads. Daaamn. There is a 0.4 and 0.5mm pitch TDFN package. Shiiiit. it was like 6 years since I screwed up a footprint. Pay attention everyone

@@GaborGubicza Aaaw that sucks. But yeah always check the footprint of the part you are ordering. Sometimes, as you now have experienced, there are different pitches per part. Also some parts maybe be wider or something else is different. Always check the partnumber and then recheck de datasheet. Still in you case not a real big disaster, just some extra work.

Hi @Beau400! That is a lot of questions :) 1. An ESP and an Arduino a both boards with a micro controller. I like the ESP32 better because it has Bluetooth (also Bluetooth Low Energy, BLE) and WiFi. 2. The diode is to protect the transistors from the high voltage spike that can occur when using a motor. This spike now has a place to go (trough the diode and motor) instead of destroying our transistor. 3. The transistor is there so I can use a higher voltage and higher currents then an ESP32 pin can provide. I connect it to 5V. Which I cannot do directly to the ESP32 because it is a 3V3 device. 4. So no, they are not indispensable. 5. In the code you can change the frequency of the PWM signal that is connected to the base of the of the transistor. However I would change the duty cycle to get lower or higher frequencies. That is much easier. (there are a lot of tutorials on RUclips how to do that). Thanks you for your comment and for watching my video! I hope you got something out of it!

@@DustinWatts Thank you sooooo much for your time. I am grateful to you ❤❤

@@Beau400 I am grateful for you watching and that it helped!

I already responded to this reply, but there where two the same and now my response is gone 🤔

@@DustinWatts Oh, I made a mistake and wrote the comment twice. I'm sorry about that 🤦‍♀️🤦‍♀️

@@Beau400 No Problem!

Absolutely. There are way better ways of applying solder paste to a board. This was a response to someone and not a "how to" video :) Ow, and I agree if there are other things already on the board in the neighbourhood you don't want to affect, use the accessories!

I have been doing this for years. I never killed anything. The important part is that you keep your distance and keep moving.

You might think it is brittle, but I have used it in some projects for my self and after years still have good connections. My favourite solder paste atm is the TS391LT which is Sn42/Bi57.6/Ag0.4. But the fact that is can be stored at room temperature is great. And after reflow I get some pretty nice connections and it cleans very well!

Just watch it. Set it to like 350 if you can and If the solder is melted, take it off... ideally put it on a heatsink to let it cool faster.

Thanks for your comment Pandrews! It doesn't work as is. But I believe this is called the Cheap Yellow Display. There are a few forks made for this board, maybe one of them will work. Check them out here: github.com/DustinWatts/FreeTouchDeck#community-support If it doesn't work you can open an issue on one of the forks you used the see if there is a fix. You can also join my Discord and ask if someone had success with that board. Good luck!

You would need a fast processor to do that. And I think the ESP32 is not powerful enough. There are dedicated screens for that, and I would go for one for those!

@@DustinWatts I see, thanks for the help

@@somebody6590 You are welcome!

If Mint supports wireless BLE keyboards I think it will. BLE support is the most important feature your PC has to have...

Great to hear! Love to hear comments like this. If you like. join my Discord and post some images or maybe even a small video, love to see what you did!

Thanks for the extra tips!

Thanks for the extra tips! :D

And you deserve a "thank you!" 😅

Thank you @user-wf7xm5xg3t for that nice summarization!

Thank you kaleshcnair3396, I hope it helped some how!

You are welcome so much! :D

I agree there are way better way. Once is what you just said. The context of this video was how to to it with nothing but paste and a heatgun. I was more a "how would you do it"-like video then an actual tutorial. I can make one. I thing there is some real demand for something like that.

And mine was just a suggestion as well. There are options out there, and plenty of creative people. Keep the ideas coming, it’s always interesting to watch.

@@Ferreira019760 Suggestions are always welcome! Let's learn from each other!

@@DustinWatts maybe one day I will be fortunate enough to be able to see a comunal science club. No politics, no bullshit, no state. Just people who love science and want to learn and have fun together. Until then, I’ll watch videos and make my own stuff.

@@Ferreira019760 I think creators on RUclips are doing this quite well. Lot's of people who create just because to love t create and ope other people learn from it. At least that is how approach my channel....

First make sure all the pads are nice and clean, use some IPA (99% pure alcohol). While using your heat gun, try to take longer. Start higher (about 10cm/4") with your heat gun and heat up the surroundings as well (try not to melt things :P). Make little circles and go slowly lower and take your time to melt every little ball. It might take while. Don't rush... It could also be that your solderpaste is a bit dry. Then you could try to mix in some flux. Good luck!

@@DustinWatts I already mixed mine with flux to thin it! I did preheat to 100c for a minute but maybe it wasn't enough (although my readings are probably inaccurate as the PCB is reflective) maybe i'll try cleaning my boards first with IPA

@@ameliabuns4058 I think that will also help. Just for reference: My settings on my heatgun are 400° but with an airflow of 1 and a bit. So high temperature and minimal airflow.

I don't know where you get your information but on AliExpress the total is €13,76 and on Amazon the total comes to €23,73. So I do not understand how you get to $58!?

You are welcome. Since this video is doing pretty good, I might make a version 2 of this video. Even better I hope! But I am glad you are helped by this video!

You are welcome! You are also welcome to share you project. Here. Or on my discord: discord.gg/RE3XevS I am a pretty curious guy 😉

You are welcome!

I believe there is a fork on Github for the CYD. Try this one here: github.com/Raycast7373/FreeTouchDeck

You are correct. When it comes to heat (which you have to use otherwise you can solder). More heat for a shorter amount of time, is better than less heat for a longer time. Less time is better then less heat. All within reason off course :)

Ye, make sure that any interference is not on the data frequency that your drone will use for its remote. Let's say the remote makes use of the 2.4 Mhz spectrum then you would want any chips that you have like the controller to not run close to that band. Stay under 1 Mhz or better above 3 Mhz. But then keep your power limitations in mind for how long you want to fly for and how responsive you want the drone to be. Higher frequency usually means better flying performance and less delay but higher power draw so less fly time. And keep traces short, antennas can be created and combining it with a PWM signal that you will most likely make use of will create interference. You could look into making use of a proper ground plane that can "absorb" some EMI but I'm honestly not sure how the grounding with a battery powered drone will properly function, I'm sure there are some resources out there to find out tho. TLDR: Choose the running frequency of your chips carefully. Keep traces short that have a pulsing signal. And try to implement a proper ground plane (preferably on one entire layer) for EMI.

@@JJSnel-uh3by Thanks, you are insanely helpful. I am making the drone with a nrf24lo1 small version, Arduino pro mini 5v 16 mhz, an espcam to shoot some low quality photos(will not be wireless, will work by an interrupt), an mpu6050, 720 brushed motors[and gears of 9(motor):54(properller)], the pcb will be double sided, 5 mins of fight time is good, but Based on my calculations it should be a longer than 5 mins. The remote will work with antenna nrf, and the remote pcb will be handmade(too expensive for the area of a remote). Most of the things will be tht

@@MegaTechno Looks like you did your research, sadly I am not a drone expert so I have no idea if those go well together. I have had experience with EMI and Radio (like radio but also 2.4G and 5G wireless internet) where these things apply heavily. Seeing how a lot of drones use radio waves but on a smaller scale it should work and help to keep the connection. But yeah as long as you know how to read the manufacturers datasheet (or are decent at looking shit up on the internet because you are not the first nor the last to build your own drone) then you will do fine :) Another tip, use the tips in this video! You will almost certainly want to do a new revision even if the first one already works. Maybe not now but later xD I know I certainly have some projects I see some improvements in.

Cool! You are on a good way!

Thank you! There are a lot of better options, but in a pinch.... this could work you 😀

Sure that would work! There are more and better ways to get a QFN chip soldered. This absolutely not a tutorial. What al lot of commenters missed is that this is my response to the question "I have solderpsate and a PCB. Like a breakout board. Nothing more, how would you do it using the paste?" Personally I almost never do it like this. I get a stencil for my own boards. And if I want a QFN on an breakout board I go through al my designs an hope I have that footprint on a stencil somewhere :D And as the number of boards grow so do the numbers of stencils and the chances I find the right one. The just some Kapton tape and I can use the stencil :) Also there are stencils available for all sorts of foot prints. You can just buy the one that has the one you need on it.

​@@DustinWatts I thought the comment made sense because even if someone says "I have solder paste and a PCB", it's pretty likely they also have solder wire. Even if they don't, they should probably buy some as they'll need it at some point (whereas I kinda understand the will to avoid buying a stencil you'll use once). But thanks for the very thorough answer!

@@NicksStuff Lol true. Use the wire.

Unfortunately yes. It i a cheap brreakout PCB. Although a lot of board houses also don't do soldermask when the gap is to small. It will cost you extra.

I like handy things :D I think you mean for applying the solder paste? For 2$ it is definitely worth a shot :D In fact, there is already one in my shopping cart on Ali :P Thanks for the tip!

@@DustinWatts They are very handy, the smallest I have is 0.15mm (red), the largest is 0.45mm (black). The smallest I almost never use, same with the largest. Mine are aliexpress bergeon copies.

@@wombatau I'll order all colours and see what works the best for me. They are cheap so worth actually giving them all a try. Btw, I always use stencils. This was just a reaction to some one who asked what can I do when I have no stencil, no syringe, or anything, just paste and a board.

@@DustinWatts Awesome 👍 I don’t know if it helps also, but sharing because when I learned it, it kinda blew my mind. A bit of a secret watchmaker trick with tweezers and tiny parts is they dress their tweezers with a stone, as in, make them a perfect surface and also rough it up a bit. That’s how they do such fine work without gears and springs pinging off into oblivion. I learned it whilst trying to learn how to fix a couple of watches and a clock. The clock works great. The watch.. well.. one of them I fixed works pretty good, but the other one I sent a jewel into space. I then learned about dressing the tweezers.

@@wombatau I always feel amazed if I learn about something that is intended to use for something totally different, works perfect for what I need it for! A example, I use dentist tools for some electronic application. Works like a charm!

Unfortunately when I made it, I hard coded it al. So yes, you are "stuck" with 5 menus, with 5 buttons, and 3 actions. We are really far in unlimited menus, buttons, and actions in version 2. The only thing is that in the V2 there in no configurator yet. So you have manually edit the JSON. So, the answer is "no", with the addition '"not yet" :)

@@DustinWatts thank you for your reply Dustin, great video

I use a Meanwell power supply that supplies enough Voltage and Amperage my unit. For the DPS5005 in your case. the first 50 means the Voltage and the second 05 means the current. To get the max out of your unit, the voltage (which is usually adjustable) should be 55VDC (this was said as the max in the datasheet). The output current is 5 Ampere, so your power supply should be able to supply 5A. So look for power supplies that supplies 50V and 5A. And... BE CAREFUL with AC mains voltage.

@@DustinWatts Thank you so much!

@@jordisanb32 No problem! Have fun with your adjustable power supply!

Oof, this is not something I can quickly answer in a comment. I do know that the chip is not supported by the Arduino debugger. So you will have go the MPLabX route (the official Microchip IDE) which is not easy. I hope serial prints are enough because otherwise you are in for a long journey. Good luck mate!

@@DustinWatts thanks a lot for your info and kind reply

@@abdulaziza No problem! I hope it can help you somehow!

@@mahmoudayman6973 I did nothing else then what you see in the video, so if you follow along it should work. If this is not the case, you can always open an issue here: github.com/SpenceKonde/DxCore P.S. Make sure you are using a data USB cable ;)

Thanks for the tip. Never used it or heard of it, but I'll try it sometime.