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This is totally a good idea for my next project thanks for showing it so well I’ll use my moulding planes haven’t touch in a while

I heard.. . Spice? SPICEEEE 🇳🇱🇳🇱🗣🗣🗣🔥🔥🔥🔥 GIMME THAT BOX🗣🗣🔥🔥🦁🦁🦁 RAHHH

Ton chat est très cute!

I have watched many you tube videos showing Roll top desk repairs but none of them show how to remove the top from base. Is it difficult? I have to move one and would love some information. Can you help?

Hi, RUclips just put your video on my feed and have watched it about 4 times and I’m a bit perplexed, in your initial inspection you show quite a number of repairs, many of which have failed, I assume repeatedly. My first question is whether much of this is due to poor lumber choice, either in not having read the grain well or simply that the lumber had imperfections that allowed the failures? Next would be that the break you worked on is in a crucial place with regards to the need for maximum strength, as you say there is a huge load on those 2 places, which unfortunately are intersections which are further weakened due to the joinery, it seems doomed to future failure especially on the other side where it seems that a previous restorer simply glued (or maybe epoxied) the bits back together. In cases like this I ask my clients whether they intend to use the piece or simply want it around to fill out the set, in which case I suggest putting a ribbon across the front in an attempt to keep people from trying to use it and thereby cause more damage. If they intend to use it I’d think major surgery is required along with modern technology, it’s not a museum grade (reversible) restoration with hot hide glue and saving as much original material as possible, but rather doing what it takes to allow it to be used as it should be. Therefore I’d have done both sides and probably made new pieces to patch in (as a previous restorer did some time ago. What epoxy did you use? I’ve found that an elastomeric epoxy stands a better chance of surviving as it moves with the wood, rather than an epoxy that cures brittle hard, West Systems g-flex works wonders in these conditions, I tend to use their 406 filler as it’s rated very high for bonding strength, I also love the colour you get after mixing it in as it’s a creamy yellow, which is very close to the base / background colour of many woods. Another plus is that even when mixed to the point where it won’t slump (which allows me to over apply it so I can then work it to its final shape without needing to apply more) I don’t find any loss of strength. I tend to add pigment to get close to the finished colour, so I don’t need to add much colour later in the finishing end, it files, chisels, sands and takes finish very well and I’ve used it where small bits are missing due to the client not being diligent in picking up everything. I’ve used it on an original Philadelphia Chippendale Mahogany Chair (dated 1780 and part of a set of 8) which like yours had been repaired a few times, that chair is being used robustly for around a decade and the owners are on the larger side. You did a wonderful job on your chair, but I worry that it will be back soon and that one of its next breaks might be catastrophic. Looking forward to seeing more of your projects!

Would have had a sewing tray and hinged letter holder in the lid. Personally, as a restorer of many, many years I would not have looked at that box twice. Boxes like that I usually steam off the veneer and use the brass as spares but its certainly a good one to show how to restore a slope....or not... but I`ll come to that later. Most period glues are animal based and come off easily and that`s a good method to do it with heat and moisture.....but be careful......veneer is also glued in the same way. With the ridge in the middle I usually go with a double skiver, they really look great, a bit more expensive but worth it. Another good glue is wall paper paste which is a bit more forgiving for the beginner but takes a lot longer to dry so I also use PVA. Got to pull you up on the green strengthener though.....THAT WAS HORRENDOUS 🤢🤢🤮🤮. You should have glued a thin piece of fabric along the hinge first as a strengthener and THEN applied the leather. Another method usually found on larger slopes is to cut a recess for a pair of leather hinges although this slope is a little too small for that. That`s how the Victorians did it. I`ll give the Gilboy`s a try and a good leather supplier, one I`ve used for several years now, a shout out to Essex Galleries 😊. Very reasonable prices and a good variation of colours and tooling. Sorry about the small bit of criticism but it had to be said so I hope you don`t mind.

Beautifully done!

Great work! I just wonder if the BOTTOM received any treatment....

Beautiful sympathetic restoration

And the result is excellent, as usual, Bruce!👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

WHAT RESTORER STAINS THE BACKBOARDS???????????????????????

I always look forwards to the staining part. My father did an apprenticeship with the co-op as a painter. A lot of time he oiled / waxed / stained and latterly varnished wood. My heart was in my mouth when he started to match in the multiple different shades of wood in a hardwood staircase I built some 30 years ago, But in the end I shouldn’t have worried, it all matched perfectly …👍 It’s a true art indeed.

Really excellent result, thanks for the video.

My goodness…. That chair’s been in the wars!! I’m surprised it’s not been thrown on the dump. Great videos Bruce.

I love your videos. Can't get enough of them. I have had a Heplewhite reproduction chair for some years in need of repair. Maybe one day?

I love tables like this 😊 Practical in smaller houses, beautil grain and actually very sturdy a whole lot sturdier tha the majority of modern furniture. I preferred the darker colour but I think the oil based did show off the grain much better.

Hi Bruce! Great work - as always! I've liked these Heppelwhite chairs for a long time - but the construction of many of them is rather questionable. These chairs were built very much for the eye, but sitting on them can be dangerous. In your chair, a small bridge at the bottom of the back plate to the frame of the seat would be enough to multiply the stability of the construction. A small, less visible element would be enough for this, which would hardly disturb the overall effect. All in all, I think the chair could soon be back in your workshop. But that wouldn't be your fault - definitely not - but its construction. All the best from southern Germany: Georg

The thing i love about your videos is the fact that although you make it seem like a "small and easy repair" you put a lot of work and research in every piece you restore. And you share it! I love that, thanks for taking the time to share it. Loving the multi camera shots. 😉 Do let me know whenever you start thinking lighting. 🤪

These chairs were all Style and no Substance...you did a fine job...I do hope nobody over 5stone ever occupies it!...dgp/uk

I was just thinking about the Cottack workshop yesterday, and today you've posted a new video!

My, that poor chair has been through the wars a bit. Fortunately, your skills have brought it back into use. Great job Bruce and thanks for the video. Cheers.

Poor old chair. It looks like it's had more injuries than Jackie Chan. 🥺

That interest to see the different types and makes of chisels they are. For me I like the old chisels and just sharpen it as I go along. Love the video.

It looks fantastic, excellent work. All that history preserved for the next generations.

Beautiful job. I think the original drawer pulls were more practical and suitable........I would have drilled divots in the door to accomodate. That would have added to the "originality".

LOVE it!👏

When something is that old, it has been reworked on in every inch. Yet it has essentially survived all the warping and wearing being used day after day for 5 centuries . I am so happy to see your painstaking attention to detail and patience in fixing previous mistakes. Wonderful job!

Так хорошо рассказывает, что я, не зная английского языка, понимаю буквально всё. ) Феномен!

Great video. Thanks. Really appreciate

Beautiful job!❤

Fun-tastic/ there are light sagey green (almost artichoke color )felts with thin strands of other colors that would look much better on many drawer linings restoration.That or paper lining .Antique or new . Luv the old oak

Why did you go with green felt and blue leather? The restoration is good but not going with the same colour/tone for the felt and leather is disappointing.

Does anyone know what style leg it’s called I have a dining table square with the pull out extra panels. I am currently in the middle of redoing that all though I am sanding it down and starting again as it’s really in need or new finish

Incredible! 🤩🤩🤩

I wonder what ole Thomas Johnson, from Gorham, Maine, would have done? It turned out beautiful.

Hia, just wondering why you chose an Osmo finish rather than a French Polish? Nice work though!

Preserving the original look of the chair was brilliant. Thank you for an inspiring look.

Fascinating background of this piece. Beautiful!

What kind of cat is that? I love his markings!

When did plywood originate, and was there plywood in 1665?

Sans doute eut-il été judicieux de confier cette restauration au maître en la matière, Monsieur Thomas Johnson.

Ok, could you help me? How do I make that (you called it tembor?) roll top from scratch? How tick must the thin wooden slats be and the first larger on. It looks a little like click laminate, do I need to form them like that? Does anyone knof if here Is a DIY of making a roll top desk?

I have bought a desk like that, but it's missing the rol top, so when the drawers are closed they are locked, the rol top opens them. So I have to make a hole new rol top. I'm searching everywhere how to do that, where do I start? I do have the key, the rest is missing 😢

Is there an email I can reach out to you? I’ve got a customer asking about a project just reinstalling the tambour. I’d like to ask about pricing and stuff like that. I’m across the pond so I don’t suppose we’re in direct competition 😂 Any advice would be very helpful!

Excellent work. I was glad to see you didn’t comprise the integrity of the piece. Beautiful

👍you have very nice cat❤

One word...MAGNIFICENT ❤

Beautiful!! True talent.👏🏼

I recently restored my slope..same leather4craft ... I decided to fit the whole piece across the hinge ..yes when i close it leaves a crease in the leather so hoping it is very durable and does not split the leather..ive given it a cleqn with leather soap hoping it sofens it up a little...

🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉