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We literally just bought a 1990 Ranger XLT on last Thursday...driving it empty, in Overdrive...going 55-65 mph...she started smoking. we got to a destination...checked under the hood...no smoking...but I saw a little engine oil on the valve cover, So i just assumed it was oil dripping on the exhaust manifold...at this time we had zero trans fluid on the ground...We take off back toward home (25 miles there abouts)...once back on the hwy, she started smoking again...we made it a few more miles and the first "slipping" started at a stop sign...before it started slipping...it literally just died like a manual shift transmission does popping the clutch...but it started and the trans grabbed and we were underway...then we got into stop and go...and she started slipping severely, so we pulled off and called a tow truck. We checked the fluid and it was not showing on the stick...so we added fluids, and started it up in park...it was just puking fluids out the front of the bell housing onto the ground...I shut it off...and the This truck has 90,000 original miles and the trans fluid looked and smelled brand new when we checked it all out before making the purchase. I think that we smoked the transmission driving around 1-1.5 miles after the first "slipping" was felt....what do you guys think? It was pretty warm Saturday...around 95 here in Houston and the engine compartment was really hot (but not like you would expect from an overheat), the truck temp gauge and oil gauges were not even close to overheating or low oil pressure etc...basically the dash was "normal". Also...if this "overheating" was a total thing...then one would think that almost every truck built with this set up would have the same issues...Ford made millions of these things....do you guys think this transmission is just destroyed now???

Lovely! Thanks!

I had one of these, my engine was black, it ran really well, and the entire mower was built extremely well. I sometimes had to hit the primer a few times to keep it running on a cold start, but then ran smooth as silk. i sold it and now i miss it, the only thing i really didnt like was that it would hurt and make my hand cramp up to hold down the self propel lever

maybe I missed it... would have been nice if you mentioned the year of the ranger in the description. Seems they are not all the same... think my master cylinder is going on the one in my 2009 4x4 manual ranger and I'm not so keen on tackling that myself

All the fluids, two axles, timing belt and tensioner, water pump, radiator, struts and ball joints for only $700? What a deal! Where did you find parts? I assume they are not OEM

I buyed a 95 corolla and I was afraid to do some work myself. The very phrash at the end of this video made me lose this fear and now I fix almost the entire car myself. Thanks man.

I have a 95 and its the best daily car ever cheap to maintain and sturdy as a tank

What year is yours?

I used to have a couple of these when I was a teenager. I got pulled over countless times. The cops made it about safety when we got pulled over, but I never, ever see any of these silent electric scooters getting pulled over. I see electric scooters everywhere. I guess in hindsight, having a huge, loud, upgraded exhaust pipe wasn't the best way to stay hidden and conspicuous. They were LOUD! My guess is people called the police because of the noise, rather than safety. But it was dangerous. Mine got about 40+ mph all souped up!

Can this be done on a 98 ranger with 4R44E tranny ?

I just picked up a 94 Mazda b4000 for almost nothing with 231k. It was an old scrap metal guys truck. I found the receipt for the tommy gate lift on the back $2000 about 25 years ago. So I know he was hauling bed fulls of junk. I know its the original trans and seems to be doing ok. Haven't been on the highway yet but was doing 55mph just fine. I was thinking about running remote trans cooler in addition to the cooler on the radiator. It's a great little truck and I'll keep welding the frame together and rebuilding trans or whatever to keep it running. Thanks for all info and others helpful comments

cool thing I've found out about this generation of corollas -- they have non-interference engines. If the timing belt fails it causes no damage to the engine. You can just put a new timing belt on and it'll start right up. And I'd been told that the timing belt is the weakest link of these engines. Gotta love that Toyota engineering. Not even the honda civics of that era were able to do this. It also makes it far easier to DIY the timing belt, because if you mess up the engine shuts off and you can just try again. DIYing timing jobs is only recommended for this kind of engine

I drive a 96 corolla that I happened to find as a grandma special. It's the best car I've ever owned. It's so comfortable and relaxing to drive. It also caused me to start collecting cassette tapes so I had something cool to listen to when I was cruising around. It's almost mint on the inside, and it drives like it rolled off the lot yesterday.

Anyone recommend a good engine that fit in the engine bay. love the body just want speed.

I loved my 96 Corolla. The rust ended up being its fate. Salt in Minnesota is a pain

Gopeds are awesome

These old Corollas are so simple I love them

Bra... The title says relay location...video sucks

What lots of people get wrong about this subject is they focus on the ethanol. It's not really the issue. As one poster said its all the other chemicals in pump gas. Benzine, Toluene ETC. They gum up the carburetor. High quality can fuel like Aspen fuel is actually an alkylate fuel. None of that stuff it in. You can leave it for years in a carb and it will fire right up. IN fact, run some aspen 2 in your chainsaw next time and notice the lack of smell. Try pouring a bit on your hand. You will notice no smell after 30 seconds. Try that with pump gas. Your hand will smell like gas for an hour. I'm not talking about TruFuel and VP they are still not alkylate fuel. They have allot less of the junk in them but a true engendered fuel like Aspen or Still Moto Mix. is amazing fuel. And yes, its expensive.

Great vehicle

good info, BUT ! cameraman needs some learnin up

Me taking notes: 📝 Big hammer ✅ 📝 24mm socket ✅ 📝 Don't fuck off the cotter pin ✅ 📝 Keep nutsack out of the way ✅ Quality content

I'm sorry, did you say you had to GRIND YOUR BALL JOINT OFF your Corolla?! That must've been fun.

"I'm not professional" Hard same, brother. Hard same.

I got me a friggin '91 XLT 2WD with the big, ULTRA POWER 3.0 V6. This video is gonna friggin help me so much my dude, friggin thanks x1000000 ILY

getting my first car tmr. It’s a 1997 Toyota Corolla. $900 for it everything runs phenomenal for the year and price. 191,000m on it so, I’m Pretty stoked! update: it’s runs like a mother it sounds so good in my opinion. I’m about to upgrade a couple of things; brake pads, tail lights/headlights, paint job, and interior.

as a men of the old car series in enthusiasm I can tell u one thing no matter what disagreement they saying about others cuss I heard it from way to many people so lisent Toyota Corolla along with any Toyota brand will last a full life time until u passed away as in the modern car gen nowadays will pop the check engine light in afterward or possible worst ended in a car junk yard 100% guarantee or mechanical engineering problems the old cars are lasting way longer than the modernized version respect ur cars in threat it well

Mine is not belt driven and it has reverse

Hell yeah! I just got a 93 with 114k from a coworker for $800. I can’t wait to do some stuff to it and keep it running

12:51 Broooo hose that crap off and wax the paint while you have access.

Take the new spindles apart and remove the brging inside covers 😊😊

Good mower but I don’t like the hood set up, makes it hard to work on 😮, but it’s still running great and is the most reliable mower I’ve ever owned 😊

Hell yeah, that's a sweet Ranger!! I've got a super beat up looking '91 with the 3.0 V6 and the A4LD, but mechanically it's an absolute beast. I don't tow or anything really, but I'm coming up on 200k and it's still kicking ass. Thanks for the video and the advice. Please tell your cat I said hi 🤣 I heard the little fella in the background. EDIT I typed that last part before I saw him at the end. 🤣

I have a 1996 Corolla 5 speed. I paid $1600 for it 10 yrs ago in almost mint condition and am still driving it. I won't let it go until the wheels fall off. Previously, i had 1992's as well, with automatic 3 speed plus overdrive. They were voted that year's most reliable vehicle and i believe it. I won't drive a car that won't start every time.

No range degradation between refuelings is the best and also most eScooters use a planned obsolescence proprietary battery pack that no one makes and is hard to get out and replace. The low fuel density of batteries is bad and the decent performing ones are always overpriced and won’t work after a few years, basically a rich kid throwaway toy.

any chance you have the owners manual for this model that you have?

My only issue is the sound. It's a bit too loud for my area I think.

1996 Toyota Corolla DX made in Canada with 250K miles in South Florida

Be careful removing ethanol from gas. The ethanol is the octane booster. If you remove it then you will lower the octane rating. If your so concerned about it then just go to your nearest airstrip and get some 100LL. It’s a lot cheaper then canned fuel. Be aware 100LL (low lead) has TEL (tetraethyl lead) in it, so don’t use it in anything that has a catalytic converter or oxygen sensor. The lead will coat these things and destroy them in a few tankfuls of gas. We will be seeing unleaded avgas soon so getting ethanol free unleaded gas will be as easy as going to the nearest airstrip.

Ethanol isn’t an issue anymore. All newer equipment, and any replacement carb kits and fuel hose are ethanol resistant. I run it in all my equipment and haven’t had a single issue in over a decade. Granted I had lots of issues with it dissolving carburetor rubber parts and fuel hoses when they started putting it in gas. Those parts have all been replaced and the issue is non existent unless you are running some vintage equipment that still has its original rubber fuel system parts. As for phase separation and issues with leaving gas in stuff over the winter, don’t leave gas in your equipment and don’t keep cans of gas laying around for months or years. If you don’t use much gas then don’t fill up a bunch of 5 gallons cans! Just use a 1 gallon can. Otherwise just rotate out your gas once a month or so. Simply dump the cans into your car and then refill them. All you have to do is run your equipment out of gas and drain the carb bowl if your putting it away for the season. Ethanol free gas will still gum up a carburetor if you leave it in your engine for a long time. In fact it will gum it up worse.

Hard pass.

Where do you order the cheap parts from. I'm only finding spindles for 110

Hello kyle i bought 97 Corolla (161k miles) same colour last year. From since i bought during car in traffic the engine temperature is going from down to exactly into middle and engine rpm is decreasing and vibrating, so i use to reduce the temperature by turning the heater on, and during this is summer i can also see my coolant turned from green to brown. Can you give me the solution

No links for parts in description??

I found a Corolla 2 SR 1.6 automatic as a hatchback apparently it was only sold in Japan, any common problems?

I bought one a year or so a go at a goodwill store it a Goped Super Razor 3V ,I got it home gased it up it runs but Boggs out when I give it throttle? Anyone got any idea’s on how to fix it ? Sure would like to get it running on the street . 🤔

Much appreciated

I got the 94 sprinter, same as the corolla, they last

I have a A4LD in my Bronco I use off road. Cooling is everything in this Trans. As for fluid gushing from the front seal, this is a simple fixed by oversizing the front seal bleed off holes in the bell housing and pump to bring down the pressure. This will fix the seal leak. In addition to over sizing the return holes, be sure to use the upgraded bell housing to trans mounting bolts that include "O" rings not the old rubberized washers. Besure to give each bolt a good dose of silicone to back up the "O" rings. While you're into the trans, make sure to upgrade the intermediate servo to the OD servo AB standard, but keep the springs the same as OEM. Also if you dare, while the bell housing is off, install at new overdrive band. It's sitting directly behind the pump, an easy upgrade. And lastly, cooling, A4LD are subject to overheating. I have two oil coolers in mine. One has it's own fan, the other is a pre-cooler at the front of the truck before the fan cooler. The A4LD is a great trans once upgraded with these simple easy fixes. ruclips.net/video/iVgQQbGWviQ/видео.html

Location of the relay would've been nice!!!