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This was the one for my 2008 us spec 350 www.ebay.com/itm/332045309276?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pDLkw5TeT7G&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=jzH2Lha1QaG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

It's the favorite project I've ever had. Never stops but it's always manageable. I wish you happy driving! 💪

M113 with the 722.5 transmission was the last of the most reliable drivetrains Merc has ever made -- anything from the late 90s to early 00s that had a 320, 430, 500, or 55 AMG all used the M112/M113 engine. I still drive my 2001 E430 4Matic daily for the past 20 years. Just finished a coolant flush, water pump, serpentine belt, idler and tensioner pulleys, thermostat, and fan clutch. Did the EGR valve, brakes and rotors, as well as evaporator canister. AC compressor, drier, and expansion valve are next. 266k miles or 428k km.

It all really depends on how handy you are with cars, what your budget is and what you plan on using the car for. These are near 20 years old, there's always going to be something but for the most part all 4 of my clks were very sound and reliable, easy to work on and pretty cheap to run. Make sure you buy one that has been maintained well or be prepared to go through a few repair items yourself. Once they're up to date on all the things that tend to break with age the CLK in my opinion one of the most solid cars you can buy, it's cheap, lots of fun and still beautiful. Let me know if you have any questions and please send me a picture of it once you bought it :) happy driving!

I'm actually making a whole video on that issue, thanks for the heads up! :)

It should, the bulbs have not changed. But check your original bulbs and reach out to the manufacturer if you want to be absolutely sure - I don't see a reason why it wouldn't work though.

@@adamdezsi thanks

Having worked on so many of these the only thing that's mileage related would be the engine and tranny, maybe the cats. As long as there's good maintenance records I'd be OK with a higher mileage one, the stuff that mostly goes wrong is age related (plastics, rubber, suspension parts, trim pieces). Mine is at 250k miles and it's still a great car, granted I spend a lot of time and some money on it every year.

Unscrew the licence plate light assembly and you'll be able to tug on the wire

Unfortunately I'm not too familiar with the E convertible but since they're otherwise very similar I'd think they share a lot of elements and design cues.

Unfortunately I'm not familiar with the keyless system but that sounds like an absolute pain of a problem to have. If you ever figure out what it was let me know! But try a fresh battery on the fob first 😂 good luck!

@@adamdezsi Its on my next project on this lol I just finished rear window reg and replced case cover lift hydraulics and replaced the front display peeling on audio 20 radio , tightened up the loose latch for glve box located under the CD changer lol

Yeah it was a pain to do even without the camera haha... Best of luck 💪

I'm sure a Hyundai with the same age will have fewer problems... Oh wait

Appreciate it :) I just happen to have a video on the ac issue, check it out. And enjoy your new car 💪

@@adamdezsi I will look through in the morning bro when I get up. Thank you for the reply 😁

I was in the same boat in the beginning. We were new to the States, kinda broke and my wife found a 2003 clk for a grand. I wasn't sure but we went ahead as we didn't have other options. Fast forward 6 years, we're on our 4th clk and we both love it. On top of my 10yo S class and a 2005 SL, I learned that these cars are very easy and fun to work on, and I'm planning on releasing videos on every single issue I've addressed in this one. The most expensive repair I ever had to do was a new intake manifold, that was $400. As long as you keep up with your maintenance and not taking her to the dealership for every single minor thing, these cars are very cheap to own.

@@adamdezsisounds good, i live in the Netherlands, EU, and here it's hard to find low mileage versions atm. Or they ask crazy prices, the whole 2nd hand car market as whole is scuffed here due to taxes. EG a new Volkwagen Golf costs 38k eur here but 28k in Germany. So for 1K I will not get anything, minimum will be closer to 6-10k with 120k miles on it. I don't really want to spend more as again, they're very old and it's just for hobby. But idk if a 120k miles 20year old car is reliable even as a sunday driver. Like it's not for work, just for fun drives. I've owned aE46 about decade ago as a hobby car and the thing was a money pit with just 60k miles. I will check your new vids :D

Yup, just make sure you get canbus ready LEDs. If you don't you'll get errors

Glad to hear it worked out, the whole idea of this channel is to help people with stuff they might feel are too difficult jobs to do themselves. Thanks for watching and getting back to me, it means a lot :)

Thanks for watching! :) I may have been hallucinating the elite keyword as I was going through all my previous scanners in my head. The nt530 should work perfectly, just make sure you buy the mercedes-spec one. You can add support for other makes later with one time license purchases but these should come with Benz-specific software. Lmk if you need any help. Good luck! 💪

@@adamdezsi superb and much appreciation for your time. Ordering one tomorrow.

Quick google search showed me the py21w is equivalent to a 7507 bulb. I recommend pulling your current bulb and checking what you have, sadly I'm not familiar with the SLK. Good luck 🤙

@@adamdezsi That means its warm yellow light... You can buy normally LED, just with warmer yellow it will be slightly more red color...

Yeah it sucked but perfectly doable!

If not to the tee it's probably very similar!

Hi! This is what I bought (had to fish it out from purchase history) but make sure it fits your car. Mine was a 2008 CLK350 convertible, I doubt they would be very different but just in case. Also it's a halogen headlight not xenon. Hope it helps 🤙 ebay.us/FdUIUV

Thanks! No you shouldn't have to with the m272 engine. A breaker bar and a socket is all you need really. Not sure about the larger engines

It does sound very similar to what I had. I'm in San Diego but never got around to finding "a guy" as I like to work on my own cars. I'm a software engineer so sadly I don't take on projects like this but word of mouth is always great when it comes to finding a trustworthy mechanic. I usually ask in my local Facebook groups, always works wonders :)

Thanks! Have you read your codes? Ultimately it comes down to fuel, air or spark so it could be a million things, best to get a scanner. A shot in the dark though, mine had a few weeks long fit where she would crank but not start every now and then, also would brake on its own and throw an esp/cruise control code. Turns out my crankshaft position sensor wasn't connected properly. If you do have codes, get back to me and I'll try to help :)

I feel you. It's much much worse when I'm fixing my German cars 😂😂

I'd also have to re-watch the video it's been, I'm pretty sure I talked about it 🤓🤔

I have to be honest, I don't remember. I think I ordered one roll and then ordered another. It shouldn't take too much of it as long as you're measuring twice and cutting once :) best of luck!

Most commonly that's a sign of a failing cat, do you have access to a scanner that can read the sensors? That would make it a bit easier to diagnose than just replacing random sensors, this is a tricky one even with a scanner.

@@adamdezsi I don’t, but I’ll try to see if I can find one. I would hope that it’s not the cat converter bc I know they’re not cheap at the moment

@ZachAtticus611 try and get one (in the States you can rent them from car stores) and see if any sensor has a weird voltage. If they all seem to be working I'd have someone look at the cats. Good luck, let me know how it turns out! 🤙

It sounds like a super random issue, but if it is localized to the driver door I'd suspect the door control module. Normally random stuff like this I'd go with the battery but I say look at the door control. Let me know what it ends up being cause this sounds like a fun diagnosis! 💪

If your still reading this one guys suggested it's a battery issue and the battery must be kept in top condition

I wouldn't be surprised if you somehow threw off the ecu figuring out the right fuel tank pressure, this definitely needs a scanner so you're not just shooting in the dark.

Did you ever find out the issue?

Same thing on my 18 it was the purge valve

@@xtratrex03 how much $$ did that set you back

@@pumasruletheworld around 200 for everything installed

Weird that the blinds are working, but yes I'd definitely try putting her on a charger. If you can't get power to the car you could *theoretically* unscrew the licence plate lights and their plastic frame, unhook the ball-end of the opener wire and give it a good tug. Best of luck!

That's interesting! Could it be the same gear that's broken? Do you hear that whirring sound when you lock?

Thank you so much, can't imagine how much I appreciate this comment! I hope you'll get your smiles per gallon with the car, congrats and feel free to reach out if you need help with it. 💪💪

I'm not entirely familiar with the newer model but codes generally mean the same thing.

im dealing with this right now. i replaced my sensor and the light still came back on. theres a TSB for it and i took it to the dealer. they told me they updated the PCM. 5 days later CEL came back on for the same code. dont know whats wrong with it. gonna go back to the dealer in a couple days.

Surprisingly good. I have a video on buying a clk, hope it helps. Enjoy! :)

I just bought some off the shelf LED osram ones they just turn on for half a second then turn off for 3 seconds in a loop. Also the adapter I orders 3 before I found the correct one. I'm going to return the osram leds, ones I bought and order these hopefully they have UK stock. As you have tested these and there are no errors. Hopefully mine will be the same.

Honestly I'm not quite sure these LEDs are legal in Europe, but if you can buy them on Amazon they likely are. In case you can't find them online, just make sure whatever led you purchase is marked as can-bus safe or ready. LEDs have different resistances from normal halogens and that's what's tripping your system. CANBUS ready bulbs have the right properties to trick your car into thinking they're regular halogens. Good luck!

Hahaha finally someone picked up on that! 🤙