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It's like a jungle in these mountains. Ticks are hardcore. When I hit my hives on Rt.64 I'll get 10 ticks on me.

It's an ultra light. I have the wings off of it right now. I've never flewn it, I just found it at an estate sale. 😁😁😁

Yea, I'm going to have to do something about a mic. I might get a lapel mic or something.

It's just the feeder I use. It's the old school hive top Dadant alot of people don't like because it will drown alot of bees if you don't address it's issue. I made 3 videos about it. 1 for drowning mod 2 for trickle feed mod 3 using as an open feeder And if your into quilt boxes, it's good for that too. ruclips.net/p/PLYxaWs6s7c_Ax0Y2VfGBl1MtwgqFA27hy&si=ngvrdF2GvtUVuSyJ

@@strutt01 sweet thanks I will have a look

@@garyfish5739 hope it helps!

Thank You Gary, I appreciate that. With small cell , they use to make plastic foundation. But I think the market dropped off for it. And yes the older brood comb gets the more cacoons it has in it and the smaller the cells get. The smaller the bees get the smaller the cells they build. They still make wax foundation but I'm more apt to just let the bees make their own since they are already smaller in size. Healthwise I think the number of bees offset the size of the bee. Killer bees are like super soldiers, they are still apis malifera, they are small cell size and they need nothing from us to live. And I have very few issues with my bees. The main issue would just be queens getting old or failing somehow.

@@strutt01 right on thanks man. I have only just started keeping bees and theres a lot to learn. I am using wax/wire foundation this year hoping to quit doing that next year.

Oregon and Washington state reminds me of that old t.v. show Big Ben!!! We use to love that!!! 😁😁😁 And Thanks for the compliments, I really hope this helps. With colder temperatures I would try to play it safe on my first few Demarees and that way you'll start to notice. 1. Hive strength 2. If you get chilled brood 3. Are drones present yet? That could be a good way to time your first Demarees. And if the hive would abandon their Queen, you'll have alot of cells to make a new one. And I promise if your first few Demarees are successful, you'll start to swear by them.

OMG brother, yes we have some monsters around here. They are bigger than crows. Then I hear whiporwhills and owls at night too. Like literally right outside my window. LOL

I never do because the queen truly does think she just swarmed. It"s going to be a while before she gets that urge again.

I see the logic in that, but I would consider a double brood chamber first. With the excluder over the 2 new brood boxes. Like make it a double brood chamber as your performing the Demaree. Then that way your not getting back deep into the hive again for ??? I would definately have at least 2 frames of brood and a frame of food in a double brood chamber. ( But I have not tried this yet, you would be a citizen scientist for sure) If the queen lays 2000 eggs/day would be about 3 days per frame, times 20 frames? Really even with just 9 frames of drawn comb your looking at 27 days to fill. Wich she will have brood emerging before she gets back to laying round 2. So yea alot of it will depend on your flow and how prolific your queen is. You got my wheels turning again. 😁

@@strutt01 I am in MD and run double deeps year round. I am also a "organized Neat" kind of person so for me I like everything in what I would consider "order". Once I put the supers in the middle of the split personally I would want to get my hive back to its double deep orientation with the supers above so my brain can handle the way I prefer my hives LOL (Its a me thing totally lol). I was thinking after your example once the top box is pacified from producing a queen I can just stick that back over the bottom queen right box and put the supers over and bee off the the races. As I review the Demaree process I always get the meat and potato's of the process but the end I feel like always tails off differently for different folks. Much appreciated for your time and video, great work!! And Thank You!

@@jblaas8699 My thoughts too with people doing things differently. It sounds like you would still prevent the swarm. But the timing would be alot different getting alot of brood and nurses back to the queen pretty quick. I'm not sure how the queen would behave. I know when the queen is in her brood nest, the pheromones the open brood gives off is alot stronger than when she is 2 boxes down from it. And all the nurses. They transfer all their pheromones with their antennae. Have you tried this before? It's interesting for sure.

@@strutt01 I have not tried it yet. I am a 3 year keeper and am planning for next year after winter. I would want to wait until 2/3 of the brood has emerged up top before putting this back on the bottom,, would only be a few weeks. At that point there should only be a small amount with brood and nectar. I would hope the bees would move the nectar to open laying space for the queen but unsure. Does the honey from the brood chamber up top taste any different or do you use the deep up top to feed back in winter etc.? I would really not want to have a deep 10 frame full of honey on all of my hives to use in a different way and not be able to or choose to extract it as edible honey. This is my main goal of what I am trying to avoid.

@@strutt01 thanks

Your welcome!

@strutt01 what area of the country are you in? I appreciate both your videos I've seen on the Demaree method. I'll be trying them next spring.

@@benschmitt5619 I'm in West Virginia at 2600 feet elevation. So it's ag zone 6A-B, But yea it's almost all forest where I'm at.

@@benschmitt5619 And thank you, I hope it helps you like it did me. It gave me a huge break between inspections.

Thanks, got it.

I like your enthusiasm. Your brain works like mine. 😁 Also to see a better picture, click on the link to another youtube video in the description. It's an animated version without the commentary. And yea the running out of space for hives is what caught my interest in this method myself. I feel your pain! Q#1 But first question, you should never get a queen in the top chamber if you go back 7 days after your Demaree and you make sure to knock down every queen cell.( make certain of this, shake the bees off the comb if you must) Q#2 Now that the old brood chamber(currently hatching out and going to backfill with honey) is on top and the new one is on bottom, the queen in the bottom thinks she swarmed. so no more splitting. Q#3 Weekly inspections are going to be tough once you Demaree, your going to have at least a stack of 3 now. Just make sure your hives are healthy before doing this manipulation. Your next brood inspection isn't really necessary for a month if your in a strong flow. If your flow is over then just inspect whenever you want.(The queen truly thinks she just swarmed, shes going to be happy a while) Q#4 If your in a heavy nectar flow and think your hive is going to swarm then yes, do this manipulation again. (It's going to take your queen a while to fill this new brood chamber up again) And even if you don't catch it till you see capped queen cells this manipulation will stop it. Q#5 The upper brood chamber is going to convert to a super as all the brood hatches out. There is debate on where to add supers, but yes keep adding supers as necessary. Q#6 The Demaree is always one hive. Once you knock down the queen cells in the upper chamber then all that brood will hatch out after 24 days (because of drones) and they will fill that chamber up with honey. Then after you pull honey and prepare for winter, yes treat it as a very strong hive going into winter, Either leave plenty of honey for them or feed them. Hope this helps, and if your not comfortable yet, no rush, this is an advanced manipulation. I done it for three years before really getting to know it inside and out. I love it. It's really made everything easier.

Hey brother, if you have any strong nectar flows coming up then do this. If not then wait till next spring. You'll get 100 lbs. of honey on one hive. You'll get more if you keep drawn comb on them. And it's not something I came up with, it's a guy named George Demaree back in 1864 that came up with it. He posted it in the American Bee Journal back then. Ive been doing it for a few years now and have it all hammered out. :)

@@strutt01 well if I have any problems I'll reach out to you but it does make sense

Keep em rolling brother

@@jeremymcatee6293 agree you get another hive. But the honey production is where the Demaree really shines. That and you buy a solid month of no needing to get into your brood chambers. I know the Demaree looks like a lot of work, but I literally done one in March, then 1 in April and didn't have a single swarm. All my queens had marks on them 2 weeks ago. There are so many things happening with this one manipulation, I don't think any one person can do it justice because it was all but forgotten just a few short years ago. It literally turns your bee hives into monsters. Ex. You remove the entire brood chamber but yet you still have it in the same hive. The queen doesn't realize that. So she goes gangbusters on laying brood and building comb and thinking she just went through a swarm. Now you have her entire old bird chamber hatching and her entire new one coming right along. She never stops for a moment. And I'm going to cover on how to do the Damaris for building up your hive strength next. This example was to prevent swarms. The next example is going to be on building your hive strength in time for a strong nectar flow. In hive health is off the charts.

Then think about this, as long as you have those nurses away from the queen, her swarm instinct is going to be less. That and all her laying room. When you go back to knock down queen cells in the top chamber, how many splits will you be able to make? There are going to be a whole lot of queen cells up there. But keeep that in mind if your taking brood from that upper chamber too, those nurses will start returning to the brood chamber where the queen is. I personally haven't made any splits that way yet but I can conceive it could be done.

@strutt01 it will work pretty well. Your only limitation is how much honey you want to make. If it's a great queen and I want to expand my colonies, I will divvy them up and make 3 or 4. I've had them fail to get mated if it's done prior to the main honey flow, bit on a flow the return rate is excellent.

@@jeremymcatee6293 yeah I hate talking about Queens not getting mated. I had a heck of a time with that my first year or two. 🤮

Thanks and hope it helps.

Once my swarming threats are over, I pull all my excluders. Then I just watch my honey stores. But I know my nectar flows very well. I pulled all my excluders about 2 weeks ago and all of my queens had their marks. So for me, 1 Demaree in March and 1 done on April 15th prevented all my swarming 100%. I do have 2 other hives at another location I need to check. But even if they swarmed I really like these percentages.

O.k. I'm glad you mention the way you did it too because I didn't really like the way I came up with, but it did work.

​@@kellyb72601 you do have to be concerned with freezing temps. Use some open brood too and keep that entrance at its smallest available . Yes all the bees will go up to the open brood if needed. That's also another good reason to not have an upper entrance during that first week. Also add a frame of honey. So open brood and 1 honey. Put the frames right next to each other. 😁

Is this Kelly from Beesource?

@@strutt01 Yep that's me! You have lots of good stuff on your channel

@@kellyb72601 lots of trial and error going on though. Lol.

Sounds good. Will do.

I just subbed him so it looks like it's on friday nights.

@@strutt01 yep, Almost every Friday night.

Thank you, hope it helps. I swear by it.

Don't forget that link in the description for an animated instructional video. It's the simplest version I've found. It's a 2 minute video. And thank you.

@@strutt01 Ok I'll check it out. Thank You

WHAT!!! LOL!!! what chanel is he?

@@strutt01 I think its Japanese natural beekeeping

@@strutt01 ruclips.net/user/shortswVdy1YQzwB4?si=pJeTsBRgskk51mnJ

@@greenhornbeekeeping I gotta see that

ruclips.net/user/shortswVdy1YQzwB4?si=pJeTsBRgskk51mnJ@@strutt01

No. Only for starting colony's. Out of the 6 new Russians I now have 2 of them in 10 frame equipment. I started bee keeping using all nukes but they can't make the honey the 10 frame hives can. Nukes are awesome for making queens, hives and brood. But not for large amounts of honey

My hives cooked 2 of my queens. The fried one from Coy's and one from Smiths. So I got 2 from Mann Lake and it was a bear getting them to accept them. As soon as id set the cage in the hive they'd have 50 bees all over that cage.

@@strutt01 it's hard making new friends..lol

lol. Yea

Mainly because when I first started keeping bees, I used all nukes. Then when I decided to get serious with honey, I started getting 10 frame equipment. Well it was easy enough to make a shim to fit 2 five frame boxes on a 10 frame box and just like you I found the weight and handling of all deep frames 10 times easier. So now I have all deep frames, all deep boxes and if I don't use an excluder, the queen picks one side or the other to lay in. It was on accident. :)

I just watched one of your Demaree videos the other day. Looking good! I like your version.

Funny you mention that because James Craig mentioned the trickle feeding for building brood. And I just made something out of foam insulation you put under vinyl siding that I'm going to block off 90% of the float. But then with the thing you mention you could put a strip of that insulation on each end of the float.

My friend just told me you can rewax the float. Use parafin or whatever.

@@strutt01 thanks I will try that. Richard

Yeah I seen your videos on them and that's why I've been checking. Lol. But then I seen the RHBA say they are just like all the other bees. If you get a mean Hive then requeen it. So the jury is still out in my apiary on them. But so far I love a whole lot about them. Did you have trouble introducing your Queens?

@@strutt01 so far the 1 that stung me 7 times swarmed so I bought a saskatraz queen from ohb and she must not have been mated she is laying now...the Russians are producing alot of honey the more it fills up the meaner they get and she lays alot of brood pattern is almost the whole frame

So far thats what I'm finding too.

Ahhh. Yes I agree on the speed. They are definitely two different rates. Your going to run me down another rabbit hole aren't you. 😁😁😁 Because now my first thought is 2:1 water:sugar and less feed in the tanks. Hmmm. More of a nectar consistency? More ingesting? More wax building? I think I need to get away from the bees for a little bit. 🤣

I love this lantern!

Yea, I started digging into it after I made the video. It took some digging but it looks like it's from a pest. I'm not going to taste anymore even though it has a sap or sugar water taste. It's very sweet. That's just a little strange to me. Lol.

3 years ago my neighbor had a bear come up in their yard. But I think Mr. Wabash Canonball ( my coonhound ) keeps them at bey pretty well. Hes a beast. And hes so loud!!! I love him.:)

Hey Kajun!!!

It kicked my butt the first couple weeks. But seeing all the improvements now has me convinced I'll be better than before. Thanks brother😁💪😁

Refining this process has went very well. If you want the standard Demaree then for the first 7 days have no upper entrance. On the 7th to 9th day crash your queen cells and also add your upper entrance. Then you are assured of no queen cells emerging. If you cut out your queen cells on day 5, chances are there are more queen cells. And yes the pollen would lead me to believe you have another queen in the top. Good thing? Bad thing? I had it happen to me too and it made a lot of honey. But it's only happened to me once. So I can't say with sure predictability if you'll have the same outcome with 2 queens in one hive. Mine never fought.

@@strutt01 in fact yes, I started this demaree with 2 queens. Just combined two hives together with a newspaper over the base single brood box queen excluder . But after a couple of days when the bees merged i checked and I didn’t see the queen on the upper chamber. And since I didn’t see a lot of brood I presume that the bees of the lower chamber had killed the other queen. However from your reply related to pollen on the super I might have to check again for the queen

@@TSIRHCSEVAS I'm interested in what you find. If you would keep me updated I'd appreciate it.

It was just a way to do a split more like a swarm. But it didn't work like I hoped it would.

One of the best ways I've been able to tell if a queen is being accepted is by if the bees are grabbing onto the queen cage or not. If you lightly brush the bees off the cage and they feel like Velcro pulling apart, then they are trying to cook her. If the bees brush off with little effort then they are accepting her. You'll have to try it a few times to get the feel for it.

I haven't tried it, but If I would I think it would get way too tall really fast.

It's always hurting! Like never ending. Lol

I got my .338 Ruger Precision Rifle down to a 1/4 m.o.a. 😁 The final key to it was a Steiner 5 MXI scope, but still got it there. It's all precision work.

They are awesome lanterns.

I have worse

That's some vintage Metallica there now ain't it! 😁😁😪

@@strutt01 yes sir And I love it Did u know it’s actually a cover song they did

@@DanManAdkins think it was some old school punk rock wasn't it?

Yes sir before TALLICA covered it