Demaree not for swarm control, but to turn your hive into a Monster
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- Опубликовано: 7 июл 2024
- You have Mr. George Demaree back in the 1800's thinking how in the world can I stop a swarm without all the fallout.
Well now that modern bee keepers have gotten a hold of it, we started tweeking things a smidge little bit.
I think you'll like this and I hope it helps your bee keeping.
link to non narrated animated directions for Demaree
• Swarm Control using th...
If the link didn't show in the description, here it is.
ruclips.net/video/mQ6CE8nCbHQ/видео.htmlsi=fORN6rZvOwZM-_4e
@@strutt01 thanks
Your welcome!
@strutt01 what area of the country are you in? I appreciate both your videos I've seen on the Demaree method. I'll be trying them next spring.
@@benschmitt5619 I'm in West Virginia at 2600 feet elevation. So it's ag zone 6A-B, But yea it's almost all forest where I'm at.
@@benschmitt5619 And thank you, I hope it helps you like it did me. It gave me a huge break between inspections.
How cold is tooo cold? Man I really like your demonstrations they are super simple. I am starting to get this demaree method thanks to you! Hello from Oregon.
Oregon and Washington state reminds me of that old t.v. show Big Ben!!! We use to love that!!! 😁😁😁
And Thanks for the compliments, I really hope this helps.
With colder temperatures I would try to play it safe on my first few Demarees and that way you'll start to notice.
1. Hive strength
2. If you get chilled brood
3. Are drones present yet? That could be a good way to time your first Demarees. And if the hive would abandon their Queen, you'll have alot of cells to make a new one.
And I promise if your first few Demarees are successful, you'll start to swear by them.
How cool is this😮
WTH! I just seen your channel and you screw around with these bees more than I do! Gotta love it! :)
@@strutt01 * keep spreading your love for bees it's contagious 🫠
I tried this for the first time this year. Problem I had was that the bees started back-filling the top brood box with honey, so after 21 days, I had a Langstroth brood box weighing 30Kg at chest height. Nearly killed me. And my spinner won't take the large brood frames, so I'm stuck with all that honey on brood frames. I'm holding it over for winter feed.
60-70 lbs. of honey is pretty good for a 10 frame deep in 21 days. I tend to see the boxes underneath fill up after they fill that top box. Hope the next box is more full. It will be easier to pull.
Since theres alot of nectar in that upper chamber, I would set up a robbing station and get it back into your hives right away. 70 lbs. of nectar and honey you don't want to ferment. And you retain your useful honey production. It might take them a few days to get it back into the hive, But it's probably the easiest foraging they have right now.
So do you want to time it so that the main nectar flow hits right about the same time most of the brood in the top box has hatched and are of prime foraging age? The main flow here where I'm at in NC is also tulip poplar and ours starts April 20, along with blackberry, so I'm trying to formulate a mental plan of when I'd time it.
Yes try to. I always try for 30 days, that way the upper brood chamber has emerged and there's probably a few frames emerged from the new brood chamber. You'll probably be right in the middle of the flow when the highest bee numbers are there.
Thank you
Very good video, tell me if the queen is in the bottom! y isn’t her fairmones don’t get to the top box spelling wrong?
There is still her pheromones going up there, but they are not as strong now. Remember that Queen Mandibular Pheromones are transferred with the bees antennae. And normally the nurse bees are all around the queen. So when they are in the same box as the queen, the pheromones are that much stronger.
Then the same interaction happens to the Queen. Since she is always completely surrounded by nurse bees and open brood, once all that moves 2 chambers up, it just really weakened the amount of pheromone shes use to having.
Like smelling bacon cooking when you first wake up, then when you walk in the kitchen! 😁😁😁
Do you Have to move the brood box itself? Can you just move the frames?
Yes, you can move the frames. I do that almost every time.
So after you have knocked down the queen cells in the top box, on day 7 and you feel comfortable that there is no more there and no way for them to make anymore cells. Would you remove the super in the middle and put the top box which should be opening up space since the brood is emerging, back down on top of the lower and 1st initial queen right box? Which should give the queen room to move up and then begin supering as you normally would?
I never do because the queen truly does think she just swarmed. It"s going to be a while before she gets that urge again.
I see the logic in that, but I would consider a double brood chamber first. With the excluder over the 2 new brood boxes. Like make it a double brood chamber as your performing the Demaree. Then that way your not getting back deep into the hive again for ??? I would definately have at least 2 frames of brood and a frame of food in a double brood chamber.
( But I have not tried this yet, you would be a citizen scientist for sure)
If the queen lays 2000 eggs/day would be about 3 days per frame, times 20 frames? Really even with just 9 frames of drawn comb your looking at 27 days to fill. Wich she will have brood emerging before she gets back to laying round 2.
So yea alot of it will depend on your flow and how prolific your queen is.
You got my wheels turning again. 😁
@@strutt01 I am in MD and run double deeps year round. I am also a "organized Neat" kind of person so for me I like everything in what I would consider "order". Once I put the supers in the middle of the split personally I would want to get my hive back to its double deep orientation with the supers above so my brain can handle the way I prefer my hives LOL (Its a me thing totally lol). I was thinking after your example once the top box is pacified from producing a queen I can just stick that back over the bottom queen right box and put the supers over and bee off the the races. As I review the Demaree process I always get the meat and potato's of the process but the end I feel like always tails off differently for different folks. Much appreciated for your time and video, great work!! And Thank You!
@@jblaas8699 My thoughts too with people doing things differently.
It sounds like you would still prevent the swarm. But the timing would be alot different getting alot of brood and nurses back to the queen pretty quick.
I'm not sure how the queen would behave. I know when the queen is in her brood nest, the pheromones the open brood gives off is alot stronger than when she is 2 boxes down from it. And all the nurses.
They transfer all their pheromones with their antennae.
Have you tried this before? It's interesting for sure.
@@strutt01 I have not tried it yet. I am a 3 year keeper and am planning for next year after winter. I would want to wait until 2/3 of the brood has emerged up top before putting this back on the bottom,, would only be a few weeks. At that point there should only be a small amount with brood and nectar. I would hope the bees would move the nectar to open laying space for the queen but unsure.
Does the honey from the brood chamber up top taste any different or do you use the deep up top to feed back in winter etc.? I would really not want to have a deep 10 frame full of honey on all of my hives to use in a different way and not be able to or choose to extract it as edible honey. This is my main goal of what I am trying to avoid.
I don't see a link
Thanks, got it.