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Gonna get one.

Dude get organized before you decide to make a video people come to your videos trying to learn and it looks like you're trying to learn as you go very poor information on video

Dude, Get on with it!!

That hack is even better than long nose pliers!

what's the vent to your left for

No tienes ni pvta idea de tintar el cuero con las borlas, normal que te queden manchas, eres un chapucero

I took your advice and used your idea. Now I can cut great straps! Thank you again!!

Thank you for the recommendation - always looking for the next best thing. Just ordered

My problem is setting the gap for the leather thickness properly. Any tip videos on that?

Can you add oil in the regular dye

How much do you sell this for? I am a. Real buyer. Just got a brand new press. Need more to, use other. Than keycains Lol Thank you Scott

Late to the video, but I took a slightly different approach with mine. I modified my strap-cutter using a disc cut from a leather offcut, rather than sandpaper. It grips really well.

All you have to do is tighten the head bolt with a pair of needle nose. I would use leather not sandpaper.

How do I clean resolene out of my paint brush?

Good video,thanks

If the two stitch groovers are used at a 45° angle, they work as advertised. I can see where the one being reviewed could come in handy, however .

I bought this edger from Tandy and it’s great! I use it every day on all thicknesses of leather and never have any problems. It’s made very well, sturdy and you can fine tune it to anything you’re working on. It’s triple AAA in my book.

It doesn’t cover the thickness of leather

Thank you. Your French edger doesn’t look very sharp though.

OK having watched this and recently tried using 10 coat in my airbrush. I have some questions. What size needle did you use in the airbrush? What pressure did you use? Did you dilute the resin with water or anything else to keep it from clogging the airbrush? As I mentioned, I used tan coat straight out of the bottle and it just clogged up my airbrush, something fierce and took me forever to take it apart and clean it and get it working. And once you were done, what did you use to clean your airbrush? I hope to see some good answers from you.

I wish I'd found this video before I attempted to cut my last strap. Thank you very much for the excellent tip!

How about adding how to load/replace the blades. I have had the worst time doing this. Thanks.

Excellente! Gracias señor.

great job. thanks for doing this. really helped confirm some things I was experiencing.

I purchased a costly purse from a well-know, national brand. The seams will not lay flat due to leather thickness .. I love the purse & have even exchanged it once with them. I’ve opened the lining & have access to seams… can they be ’sliced’ without taking the seam stitches out ? Thank you

What does it do by hitting the stitches down at the end

Thanks for rhe video, really like the technique you use.

Brilliant idea. Thanks so much for sharing this with us.💜✨

Straight lines are easy. Go around a radius. That is where people struggle.

Excellent review, I’m just beginning leatherwork and a little tooling. It appears to be meticulously made. This will be my next purchase thank you!

F..king get on with it...for f sake

Could you dye chrome tanned leather? Like the sunburst look?

Thank you for this I’ve been running dyes through my brush and there’s no better way. Just a heads up from a model builder a real good cleaner is Windsor newton brush cleaner and restorer this stuff really works miracles on what it can get out. Thanks again for the video.

I tried this but took it off because the sandpaper was destroying the blade holder.

I have only ever used that type knife and technique. Never had any issues skiving. Terrible that you had 2 years of frustration.

It maybe just me, but I can’t make out the skull out of the print

What psi do you run your compressor at and at what ratio do you dilute your mixture?

Isn't a pricking iron to prick and mark the hole? A stitching iron is to make a hole right?

I did get a 5W xtool due to finances but wanted to at least get my feet wet as they say.. it's been hard to find videos to say what a 5W is or isn't capable of doing.. glad I found your video very helpful.. hopefully I can find more like this video regarding the 5W 😊

Sorry Sir, too much talk..

Didn't know if i was having a brain hemorrhage :) but starting at 19:25 you applied a third coat and coated the Alcohol with the pro and vice versa.

I put oil before dying with alchohol based...

Just bought the Since brand from Tandy yesterday. It was sharp but not scary sharp which is what I like. Going through different grits of sandpaper up to 3000 grit and then buffing I had a mirror polish and a very sharp knife. On 9 ounce vegtan it cut through with very slight pressure. Haven’t tried any projects yet but have it ready. Your mention of the first two has been exactly my experience.

Great video, just what I was looking for to include all the additional questions and comments. Liked and subbed!

You messed up on the 3rd coat. You applied the alcohol die to both dry pieces and the pro die to both cased.

where did you get your deadblow hammer?

Nice tip! I'll have to do this. Thank you! P.S. I liked and subscribed. 😊

Great subject. I had a friend that happen to have a Japanese skiver. He let me draw out a pattern from the tool. Later made a skiver from a hacksaw blade made to cut like a foot thick of stainless steel from a metal company that throws them away after so much use. Beautiful knife. Keeps a sharp edge too. It's razor sharp an is no joke sharp. Cuts through leather like warm butter. I sure am glad to have this tool. I think if it ever sprouted legs, I would cry. I think one thing that makes it such a good blade is not just the high carbon steel, it's the mirror shine finish that helps so there is no drag at all going through the leather. This is just my opinion. It took me hours to finish this skiver.

You polish the die and wash it real good with soap and distilled water and dry it well then put a little beeswax on the surface that will eliminate that silvery substance that getting on your product. I bought some iron shoe lasts years ago now, but I did polish the shoe last piece to a high gloss and washed them as I said and they have never rusted again and are still clean to this day.. I only wiped a little beeswax on the surface and wipe the surface off so only a a seal was left on the metal. I actually did the procedure on all my tools I bought that I had to remove a lot of rust. Lucky for me when I got my 29k it was in great condition for a sewing machine that is over a 100 yrs old. Thanks for the video.