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Dang you were so fast! First prize for speed and awesomeness ^_^ And thank you! He has gotten so big!

Thank you so much for your support and kind words ^_^ It's true I have spent roughly a decade learning about pet nutrition, and paid for training and certifications, and this has aided me greatly in my research on snake supplementation. If you would like more information on dogs and cat specifically, I have a substack and a podcast under the name "Animal Nutrition Wizard" you might find helpful. While I stopped updating these a couple of years ago, they are still available for people who need them, and most of the information I provided is still current today. Freeze Dried Raw Diets can be wonderful. Just like with any manufactured food there are some better quality ones and some I would personally avoid, however, in general they are going to 1) Be just as digestible as Frozen or Fresh raw, confirmed in digestibility studies on both, 2) Offer an ingredient deck that is far less carbohydrate-loaded than dry kibble, and 3) Be a safe and easy option for folks with kids and/or immune-deficiency options; especially products that have undergone HPP (High Pressure Pasteurization). Gutloading for both insects and rodents, quails, etc. is going to be of the utmost importance - and I plan to address this more fully in the next supplements episode!

Glad it was helpful! ^_^

Appreciate the kind words! ^_^ I'm glad you enjoyed it!

Thank you for the kind words! Appreciate you <3

Thank you, glad you liked it :0)

That's a very good question. Nutritionally speaking, it of course depends on a myriad of factors. I don't recommend live for the safety issues it causes, and have seen far too many a snake receive terrible and even life-ending injuries from live prey. However, at the most basic level typically yes, fresh food that has not been frozen will maintain more nutritional value than food that has been frozen. Especially, as you mentioned, one that has been fed an appropriate and high quality diet. I haven't spoken on this yet, but I plan to! It is my opinion that fresh-killed feeders are both the safest and likely the most nutritious option. If you are able to feed fresh-killed rather than frozen, that would be the best of both worlds. If you are interested in switching to F/T or fresh-killed, Bob Bledsoe of Green Room Pythons has a wonderful, informative video on how to do it with even the most picky of snakes ^_^ Thank you for your question!

Love to hear it! Let us know how it goes ^_^

Thanks! These were done with my husband's Sony A6500 :0)

Thank you much :0)

Ooh hope it helps :0)

She is Hypo! Thank you, she has an amazing disposition, too 😊

Thank you! I'm pleased you like it! ^_^

Thank you so much for saying that! I'm over the moon that you are enjoying this series. I still don't really fancy myself a content creator and I've learned everything I know about editing on the fly, but the key is that it's accessible and people get something positive out of it! Ooh I love a good in-depth discussion on reptile biology and the like - thank you for bringing that up! Here are my thoughts; It's definitely likely that certain species of reptiles require far less UVB than others - especially nocturnal or perhaps even fossorial ones, but besides thermoregulation and Vitamin D3 synthesis, all reptiles need sunlight for a myriad of other reasons! They are, after all, ectotherms - animals that require the sun for their bodies to regulate and function (I know you know that, but I include that for anyone else reading!). There are other types of ultraviolet light besides UVB, too; UVA and UVC. UVA is also incredibly important to reptiles because they can see the different types of UVA light and it regulates many of their behaviors - including their instincts to eat and to mate. In fact, all UVB bulbs also emit a large amount of UVA, and the best UVB bulbs provide what they call 'full spectrum lighting'. I believe that Reptiles and Research discussed in their Masterclass video about Reptile Lighting (which is fantastic and really something I would urge all reptile keepers to go watch) that regulation of D3 requires both UVA and UVB, not only for synthesis but for preventing their bodies over-synthesizing D3 and essentially causing themselves VDT (Vitamin D Toxicity). It goes into incredible detail as to the importance of replicating true sunlight as best we can for all reptiles. Even nocturnal ones like ball pythons, or fossorial ones like hognoses. There is a years-long, thorough study you can find called "Natural History of the Hognose Snakes" by Dwight Platt that I would recommend reading. Hognoses do spend a lot of time underground - but they LOVE the sun and anyone who has studied hognoses in the wild or even goes herping in Hognoses-heavy states will tell you that hognoses are out and on the crawl whenever the sun makes an appearance. I think an argument could be made for the level of UVB required for different species, especially since we already know about the different Ferguson Zones for different species of reptiles, but based on all I have read and have heard from researchers and anecdotal observations from keepers and breeders, I have little doubt that all reptiles benefit from UVB. Really it's about rounding out and replicating natural light as best we can for our reptiles, because they have a very different relationship with light and the sun overall than we do, and all reptiles rely on the sun so heavily (albeit in different ways) that it would be very surprising and counter-intuitive indeed to find that any reptiles, fossorial or no, wouldn't benefit from access to the full spectrum of light that the sun provides. Link to the Masterclass, for those interested - ruclips.net/video/hr4Im82cUpM/видео.htmlsi=KYljsswBUTEp1I1Z

@@HeartsScales Nice, thorough reply, I'll definitely try and watch the video later. So, how does all this jive with keepers/breeders that exclusive use rack systems (Jeff Galewood comes to mind, as I see hundreds of animals in the background of his videos)? He has probably forgotten more about Hogs then I will ever learn, and is known to produce healthy, vibrant animals. Would a full spectrum light in his snake room provide any real benefit (tubs block UV??)? I ask because I recently acquired my 4 juvenile Hogs, and have them in tubs on a utility type shelf. I don't need things to be perfect, but also don't want them to suffer any health issues. ✌️♥️🐍

@@MedusaHerps That's a really great point and yes, he certainly does produce robust, healthy hognoses (and clearly is passionate about them and researching their care). I agree that we should not let 'perfect' be the enemy of 'good', in such cases. There are some folks in the reptile community coming up with ways to make bioactive racks, and at least one I know of building a rack with UVB, so these are things many of us are thinking about and trying to find solutions for. I think that is wonderful and inspiring, and hopefully someday in the near future UVB-friendly racks will be available commercially. In the meantime, many of us try to find ways to do better however we can. I take my hogs outside of their tubs many times a week, and when it's nice and sunny out, I take them outside to soak in some natural UVB for a few minutes, too. For those able to keep their hognoses in vivariums, UVB lamps are an option (for now) but should be used carefully and only after much research. After ensuring the proper wattage and size and distance from your snake, UVB bulbs can be an amazing way to add to the quality of life for our snakes. Great questions and discussion, thank you!

Why thank you! Part two will be a little different, especially since now I have more reptiles 😅 Have a lovely V-day!

@@HeartsScales I will be waiting 🙏😊

Woot woot!

Nice! May they all live long and prosper 🖖🤓

Thank you! She has a unique pattern and coloration, for sure. Apparently none of her clutchmates had her coloring. And yes, they are space sloth socks, haha 😂

Aww, thank you for saying that 🥰 I am really touched!

Thank you! And that's a very clever question. I do indeed! Storage of and maintenance (including diet) of feeder rodents play a huge role in their nutrient profiles, and it's something I will touch on many times!

Oo - Do tell! ;)

I understand, it can be hard to move past fears like that. But there is hope! As a big fan of reptile tubers like Snake Discovery, Green Room Pythons, and Clint's Reptiles, I have seen that they have a huge number of people following them who used to be very afraid of snakes, and now have their own! Their comments sections are full of stories like that. I believe that learning about a thing reduces the fear of that thing. So when you learn that the majority of snakes are harmless, slow moving, quite sweet, and not slimy or icky but smooth and relaxing to hold, it can make a big difference! Maybe see if he's up for watching some of those videos with you. Who knows, might come around to the scale side eventually ☺️

Aww! Congratulations! Is she a Lavender as well? The way we have been socializing her is making sure we hold her for 5-10 minutes once a day, a couple of times a week, and take great care not to make big or quick movements around her. When she gets really defensive and focused on something that's making her nervous, I'll move her around so she focuses on something else. Each handling session I try to make sure of two things; One, that she has as good of an experience as possible and goes into "Curious Mode' before I put her back, and Two, that I always end on a positive note. Be very patient as you put them back into their enclosure, and replace their lid very slowly. If you can have several good, positive experiences a week and always end on a good note, they start to trust you very quickly. Sometimes it only takes two weeks, some hogs take several months. Let me know if you have any more questions! I'm always happy to help ^_^

She is an albino conda and she is gorgeous, but tiny! Thank you so much for breaking it down, this helps tremendously. I’m taking it super slow with her as well - I’m finally able to open the lid and change her water without her getting huffy and puffy. She used to hiss at me for just coming close to her tub so I think that’s progress. I’m going to start the handling sessions soon and make sure to end on a good note. She seems more curious about me now, coming to the edge of the tub instead of running in fear. I just don’t want to ruin her progress by pushing her too far. Thanks again for taking the time to reply and your great advice! Your videos have also been very helpful!

@Mikey-b-OG Aww 😊 Well keep at it. Sounds like you're doing great, and you are most welcome! Please feel free to keep me posted on your progress, too!

How long would you generally wait to feed a baby hog after getting him?

@madmusic0774 I always wait 3-4 days. There are snakes that you can feed right away no problem, but the thing is, you don't know who those snakes are until you take the risk. Shipping can be stressful, moving to a new home/environment with new smells, and a new hairless ape to deal with can be stressful, and typically with any reptile the key to a successful start is leaving them alone. Your new baby will be just fine a few more days without food, but feed them too soon and you risk regurg, or they get defensive and now they have a negative association with feeding that could make it harder next time. Of course they might be completely fine, and it's up to you what you feel comfortable trying. I err on the side of caution and give my new babies 3-4 days to settle in before I feed. And I've never had a problem that way ^_^ Thanks for asking!

Thank you! She is a gorgeous little thing, and just as sweet as she is pretty. That's awesome that you have one, as well! Starr is an empty back and that makes her dorsal stand out like that. I would love to see a picture of your little one some time!

Haha it is very entertaining to watch them yawn. Especially with our Retic, Darrow 😅 Talk about a lot of teeth!

We found them at Target: www.target.com/p/sterilite-6-qt-clear-view-box-clear-with-latches-purple/-/A-13794493#lnk=sametab There are a few hognose breeders out there who swear by these ones because of the latching lids and easy-to-drill sides and lids. They've worked really great for us. I will say that we've since learned it's necessary to drill several holes in the lid to ensure good ventilation, and keep the humidity from building up too much.

Oooh appreciate the tips, friend! Thank ye ^_^

Thank you much!

Thanks! I have been handfeeding both of my Cresties a little here and there, because I've learned since that it is truly a great way to help them develop trust in you. I don't want them to rely on me that way in case I do just need to place food in the tank (or I am away on vacation, because...hey, maybe that will happen and someone else needs to for me). But I for sure was probably being overly cautious for the sake of this video!

⁠@@HeartsScales She will be fine. Yes it is to build their trust there is no problem in feeding them by hand . I use to feed Splodge as a tiny baby a lot by hand & now he shakes his head as to say no I’m all grown up now mum. They all have funny quirks . Their very good at finding their food which is another myth that they can’t. Also another myth is that they don’t drink out of a bowl & mine all do . By the way I love her name 🥰

Thank you, I agree! And she is super sweet 🥰 I would say you called it about her size, too.

Aw, well they are truly fabulous pets, hope you get one! Maybe you'll even get one from us one day 😎

They were!! And still are 🥰 However, the last two we got are even smaller 🥺 I'll send you some vids when I get a chance!

@@HeartsScales oh my goodness, that is tiny, I can't wait 😍

Oh nice! I will check it out! Yes we have tried out a few brands now, and so far I've been super happy and impressed with Focus Cubed Habitats. But it it would be nice to have a few options and try some other brands, too ^_^

Thank you! It was a lot of work but definitely fun too, and I learned a ton in the process!

He has! It's awesome that you noticed XD And he is going to get bigger still. He's always going to be my little pink noodle, though 💗

Oh, absolutely! Fire away 😁

@@HeartsScales This took me 1 hr, please don’t delete ;) Fact That original background (tho I won’t suggest it) can stick with silicone with constant pressure for 24 hr Cutting the expanding foam, gives a more natural texture and is easier to stick substrate too because it gets rids of that glossy outside When putting the substrate onto the back u want to press it because over time the substrate will fall off because it is only stuck to the surface of the silicone I know u were talking about cost, and a little tip, is that ge silicone clear door and window sealer is pet safe. Leca will steal all your water away from your substrate for the starting weeks if not soaked before hand for 24hrs. This will help progress your bio active faster. I don’t know about the condition of your water but I just soaked mine in tap water. Especially when using ground hides. U should add an extra half inch or inch of mesh wiring on the barrier layer, so if the tank ever shifts there isn’t a gap on sides letting dirt in. Opinion I settle net pot plants into the background before the expanding foam hardens. Put some geotextile fabric in the pot plants and my plants survived. Charcoal is a very good substrate additive that I have found very successful when adding it to my bio active setup. I would suggest using geotextile as the barrier for your drainage layer. I find this improved the dirt from getting into the drainage layer and rooting the leca balls. Even tho, I would myself see this as fact many online don’t comment on this. Normal substrate/coco fibre is not a good background material. From my experience and so many others that I have talked to. Our crested geckos could not stick to the surface of the background unless we used tree fern fibre. This is stupidly expensive and comes in a way to big of a bag, but I found it so worth it! Deathcon Opinion I want to make sure that u understand that I am fine with the design of your enclosure. Even though we differ in opinion and I respect u for housing a gecko in the proper sized enclosure, loving it and feeding it properly Give the crested gecko more vertical branches coming from one place or connection at a junction point. A study came out about crested geckos and they found out that average crested gecko stays in the trees for 95% of its life and 5% on the ground. They need branches ranging from the back to front, top to bottom, side to side. Deathcon 2 - sorry, I do appreciate u U need depth to these enclosure!! I fell disappointed when people think that these hides are adequate for a crested geckos it’s whole life. These things were so hard to find because their nature instinct is to hide in plants. I detest when people say that their crested geckos loves its coconut. Then u check their tank and u can see the back of the enclosure. U need to add plants to the left and right side and tall plants. The plants u selected I would say would be awesome side plants, but lack to two points I looked for when searching for my main plants. Density and Height. From my research of your plants (I have not owned these plants), the fern will droop before reaching the top and the anthurium crystallinum is not dense so u can see the back of the enclosure. These conditions cause the crested gecko not to fell safe hiding in plants and that why the spend so much time in the coconut. I use schefflera arboricola for my background main plant. It grows like crazy and takes constant work, but I love that it gives height and density. I use a snake plant for my front main plant. This gives my crested gecko a place to hide inside the plant and allows for height and decent density. I use a bird nest fern for my front side plant. I find next to the snake plant doesn’t hide some of the front branches, so I use the fern to hide the top of the tank next to the snake plants. In the back side plant, I use a golden pothos and wrap it around the branches all around the enclosure to create nature vines

@@AMadrigga My goodness, well first of all thank you for the time and thought you put into this reply. I really appreciate you sharing all your ideas with me, and I will never delete a comment unless it is outright hateful or bigoted; no hate speech will be tolerated on my channel. As far as discussing and sharing ideas and experiences with reptiles and their husbandry, this is how we learn, so thank you for being a part of that! Great tip on the clear silicone - I will definitely use that in the future. I hadn't heard about soaking the LECA balls beforehand, so that is very handy to know and I will give that a try next time. Can you tell me a bit more about net pot plants? I've never heard of them! I'll have to look into geotextile fabric as well, thank you ^_^ I believe the kit I ordered included charcoal in with the springtails and in the Biobedding, so I do have charcoal in mine. I know a bit about it's beneficial properties already and was pleased to see it was in there. As far as the size and decor of the enclosure, this was a test run for my first bioactive build, and I am actually moving both geckos into larger tanks as soon as I can, with far more live plants and branches! I absolutely agree they need lots of hiding places, and areas to climb and stay top side, because the enclosures they are in currently are definitely lacking in density of foliage and extra height. I really appreciate that you pointed out the need for more foliage - I agree completely ^_^ My plan is to get some snake plants, and I'd like another crocodile fern as well because mine has been doing great, but I will absolutely see if I can get some Schefflera Arboricola and Bird nest Ferns - not great at keeping plants alive usually but I would like to give it a try! Awesome comment, thanks hun <3 Next bioactive I have some great places to start thanks to you ^_^

@@HeartsScales ​​⁠my secret is Serpadesign, I learnt most of design philosophies because of him. He sets a really high bar that costs of a bit of money, but is something I strived to replicate. This is a net pot plant video (he used more open pots now) - ruclips.net/video/hFwpeg-gxSI/видео.htmlsi=zTr59UWSPRl8QNV2 The video I followed to set up my 18x18x24 enclosure- ruclips.net/video/hFwpeg-gxSI/видео.htmlsi=zTr59UWSPRl8QNV2 This I like the integrated food dishes and how he sets up lot of connected branches - ruclips.net/video/ibcl-hkt5P8/видео.htmlsi=8TJ7tAQdDilYywFd

He'll get there! Just give him time, and hold him at least a couple times a week. I've found during the day to be easiest, out of all the times I've tried, until he is more calm. When he gets used to you and your hands, he will be more likely to go onto your hands by himself when he's awake at night.