Видео

hey don't know if you'll ever see this, but i'm having trouble locating the fuel pump relay on my zx9r. looked under tank, under seat, behind both front fairings and even under the airbox. any ideas?

Spray paint? really?

Bella

Great video thanks, are the calipers off a triumph sprint rs 955i with the 90mm hole gap as I need to do this caliper swap, and did you use the triumph main mounting bolts or the zx9r bolts that attach to mount on bike , any advice would be much appreciated 👍🏼👌🏼

What year bike were those calipers off , triumph sprint rs 955i , and did they fit nicely and did you use the Kawasaki banjo washers or triumph ones

You said the problem was the wire connection but the quality must not be good on my end because I didn’t see anything wrong with it. What was wrong?

I thought u had to count 30 pins front to back on cam marks

Boring

Starting with, great videos, have now adjusted the valves on my C1 :) Maybe I can ask one thing...? You had purchased a Kawasaki Ninja ZX-9R 1998-2003 Coolant Reservoir Tank, with extra gap for crash pucks bolt, to be able to mount against the frame BR Martin Roos 😁

Starting with, great videos, have now adjusted the valves on my C1 :) Maybe we can ask one thing...? You had purchased a Kawasaki Ninja ZX-9R 1998-2003 Coolant Reservoir Tank, with extra holes for crash pucks, to be able to mount against the frame BR Martin Roos

Hi pal what satin paint did you use and did you put a satin clear coat on and how it is still holding up

She sounds amazing

Hey bud where did you get your parts from?

Hi buddy , just a quick question for you... I actually have the same bike as you and I'm trying to make it presentable after buying it from a buddy who unfortunately slid out on it at slow speed. I'm curious to ask if you have any parts boxed that you swapped out etc , I'm in UK also so easy to post. Give me a shout dude. Ade.

Hi Tom. I'm going to be needing to do this job soon and was wondering if it's possible to keep the cams attached to the chain via zip tie or something and just raise the cam enough to access the shim buckets ?? This would then save the time of having to re time it, lining up marks etc.. By the way, you need a proper LED light to we can see better on the video this kind if intricate detail.

Hi Tom, I’m looking at some new indicators for my E1. Do you have a video of you making those backing plates? She’s looking mint mate

keep up the good work man

Love your videos. Very informative. I am working on a similar tail project taking about a foot off that stock tail on my E2. Mine is set up for drag racing so instead of rising up it sweeps downward for aerodynamics. A bit more like a bobber. Your streetfighter style is killer. This bike is unappreciated. It was way ahead of its time.

You're really doing this bike justice. It's looking slick. Great job.

I have one, the same but I can't find the fault there is no current to the coils and other cables that I can't identify could you help me

Muy bueno el.video

Good progress Tom, looking forward to seeing it start up, and eventually on the road again. Have you replaced the radiator? you can get an aftermarket one for just over £100 if I remember right, in black to so would look great with all the work done to this.

It's also advised to clean the feeler gauge then coat it in oil beforehand to prevent any potential scratching of the cam lobe surface.

You should link where you get the parts from Tom. Others may also be interested and not know where to turn for such things.

Is there a setting in there for when you over lay the music, cos the music sections are very loud. I have the volume set to a level so I can hear what you're saying and then when the music kicks in, it's like 100 Db.

Hi Tom, excellent progress on the bike. It will be amazing to ride I am sure of it. I recently purchased an E2 and have noticed that it will backfire slightly through one of the carbs, especially when it's cold. I haven't gone any further into it but I have been reading various symptoms online. It may need a carb service/calibration. I hope there isn't anything more significant like engine timing or poor valve seating. I have no service history on the thing so any advice would be appreciated. I also hear the occasional crunch coming from the transmission when stationary, ONLY when the clutch is out and NOT engaged. So when I'm at the lights with clutch free, it will make this quick crunch sound, but when I hold the lever in, it never does it. Have you had any transmission/clutch experience with these bikes to be able to diagnose the possible issue ? I also found that the oil pan has been aluminium welded just beside where the sump plug is. I wonder what happened there for that to have been welded. I hate knowing it's there, so I'm looking to replace the oil pan with a nice clean spare if I can get one for a reasonable price. The bike runs great apart from these. it starts and runs fine and goes through the gears well. I have since stopped using it until I know for sure what's going so I don't risk any potential damage. I have recorded a video of the carb backfire sound. When I upload it on RUclips I'll share it so others can hear what I'm hearing. I'll have to get a video of the gearbox crunch sound too.

Gday mate, really enjoying your channel. I’ve got an E1 that I’m rebuilding. Just had the frame painted and slowly putting her back together. Which rear sets are you using may I ask? I’ve got a cheapie pair from eBay I’m a bit hesitant to put on

Is that a custom shock ? I may have missed something along the way. I don't see the piggy back reservoir.

The plating treatment is something I do plan on getting into at some point too. I especially would like to see if I can replicate the original dark oxide Kawasaki use for the majority of their bits and bobs. Is is black zinc or something ? Anyone know ?

Hi Tom, does that head cam have decent sound ? You may need to consider getting yourself a mic so we can hear you better mate.

That hammer toning is the result of it being too cold in your shed. Metallics react that way when ambient temps are low. Read the data sheet for the paint and you'll see the optimum temperature for application. Just let it dry, sand it flat and reapply when you have the space temp right.

I wonder if the swing arm/shock combo off an F bike will work on the E.

I only just came across your channel Tom. I have two E2 Bikes. Both Firecracker Red/ Purple Mica versions. One is a museum piece I purchased from the original owner 7 years ago. He bought it new and hardly rode it. That bike only has 4,100 KLMs on the ODO. It is a brand new, Mint condition bike and I intend to keep it as a show piece. It is currently in dry storage. You'll probably never find another one like it anywhere. The second one, I purchased just recently for a pretty cheap price and is the one I'll be riding, enjoying and learning more about it mechanically etc. It's in relatively good condition, just needs a tidy up and it will look very presentable. Hoping to learn many new things here, which is why I have subscribed to your channel. I previously owned an Original B1 model ZX9R and kept that for 12 years before selling it. I since regretted doing that and it prompted me to go searching out another one then came across that minty E2 which changed my whole perception of the ZX9R lineage. I did consider the C series, But it reminded me too much of the old B, so the E series it was as it is more closer to the F series. Some say that the E is a bit more desirable than the F. Not sure why though, I've never ridden an F. Anyway, thanks for your videos mate. Regards from Sydney, Australia !

Would it be a good idea to mark the chain and the cam sprocket so you avoid trying to line it all back up and potentially put it out a tooth ??

Looks better than my mongrel Zx9r c2 frame e1 everything else

Might be slow progress but it's looking great 👍

𝐩яⓞ𝓂𝓞Ş𝐦 🌸

25min

Do you have a link to those spacers mate, might put one or two on mine when I get around to fitting my shock I reconditioned. Also if you want, check my latest video on ideas for your crankcase breather, I connected it to the KLEEN air system that I see you removed too, I also shimmed the needle jets, shew one being done in the video.

I’ve got to give this a go. Thanks for showing the process Tom. 🍻

Good to see the process after you told me you were doing the nuts and bolts yourself. And shew us a sneak peak of the current progress, looks awesome so far, will bring my 9 to you when it's done 😁👍

Nice video Tom, it can be very useful to owners of our beautiful ZX-9R, like me for example! Like 6 ;) Hello!

Another great video, I am way behind you (still working on frame and engine refresh), forks are on the list so thanks for the video 👍

Good Tom, I must to do the same work on my zx9r also if don't less oil. Just to control if the springs range work is ok

Like 6! ;)

Good job!

Olá, parabéns pelo projeto está á ficar TOP, será que podias pesar o quadro já que está desmontado para ter uma noção do peso ... Grande abraço

Great job, what paint did you use?

Sounds like a fellow stokie? Or not far off anyway!

The service manual specifies that you insert the cam chain tensioner before torquing down the cam cap bearings. The haynes manual gets it wrong so please follow the official service manual. If there is any slack in the cam chain the cams will rotate when you torque down the cam cap bearing. So to prevent this from happening you insert just the tensioner body. Thing is to set the ratchet mechanism to 2 clicks less than what it was when you removed it, or, to 5 clicks out if you did not make a note of it. This will take out most of the cam chain slack but leave a little bit that is needed. Once the cam bearing is torqued down, and the tensioner inner is inserted, you can very slowly rotate the timing rotor clockwise and listen for the cam chain tensioner taking the slack back out of the cam chain, this lets you know its working. NOTE, before refitting the cam chain tensioner work it in and out with fresh engine oil so it works smoothly without feeling gritty.